Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

[mlwdp]

Recent flyer I received with a Wolfpack order

 

[ColonelAngus]

while we're on the boot topic, what do you guys use to condition yours? I should probably condition my Indys since they've been sitting in my closet for the last 5 yrs and I don't want the leather to succumb to rot. Obenauf's?

[ColonelAngus]

12 minutes ago, mlwdp said:

Recent flyer I received with a Wolfpack order

 

 

I really don't get Japanese fashion sometimes. I'm picturing some guy sitting on his @ss out of sheer boredom thinking, "hey, I wanna dress like some old-timey prison inmate."

[Foxy2]

maybe they wanna be as bad-ass as Jack Nickolson in a bad movie...(taken from TSY)

Edited March 30, 2017 by Foxy2

[JDelage]

He looks like Hugh Jackman here.

[aho]

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-4361898/124yr-old-Levis-lying-trunk-worth-loads.html

[mlwdp]

The two executive orders will:

► Require a report on the causes of the trade imbalance within 90 days. That report will focus on 16 countries with which the United States had a significant trade deficit in goods last year: China, Japan, Germany, Mexico, Ireland, Vietnam, Italy, Korea, Malaysia, India, Thailand, France, Switzerland, Taiwan, Indonesia and Canada. The administration plans public meetings to hear from manufacturers, service providers, workers, farmers, and consumers.

► Call for a strategy for customs agents to use legal tools to collect anti-dumping duties already owed to the United States. The White House is proposing to require new importers — or those already found guilty of abusive trade practices — to post a bond before their goods are permitted through U.S. ports. The Government Accountability Office says importers have racked up more than $2.3 billion in uncollected anti-dumping and countervailing duties since 2001.

 

Here we go.....

[mrman]

Bad news. I'm still puzzled that people really believe that most lost jobs in the US have been caused by US companies building factories in other countries or by foreign competition when the true culprit is automation. And no level of protectionism will turn the clock back, those jobs are gone for good.

Edited April 1, 2017 by mrman

[JDelage]

I very much doubt that the requirement to post a bond before importing will stand as an executive order.

[Foxy2]

Another attempt to cause distraction and confusion while desperately looking for money to back the budget plan and pay for the envisioned tax cuts...

Edited April 3, 2017 by Foxy2

[mlwdp]

Wolfpack is now selling Trophy denim.

[propellerbeanie]

I have a question... Do you guys know how the Japanese brands one-wash their denim? I'm guessing they use one of those big industrial washing machines (not sure if hot or cold water)? Do they use a dryer as well? The reason I ask is because when you see the raw and one-wash measurements, the waist seems to shrink like 3"+ at times. Also, the leather patches look real cracked, but not exactly jerky-like.

[Foxy2]

yes, industrial size washing machines, tumblers and dryers - they don't have the time, space or money to line-dry them...

[Max Power]

I am also interested in this, but my observation is indeed that most onewash pairs feel very soft and crinkled, an effect that I could not get with just one (even warm) machine wash and line drying. From a pracital point of view I would assume they use industrial washing machines and driers. I think Momotaro once advertised them being dried in the sun by the sea or such.

 

Edit: Foxy2 beat me to it

Edited April 3, 2017 by Max Power

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I think also Eternal said their jeans are dried in the sun but who knows?

[HAZARDkid]

I always thought that they line dry them, I've handled a lot of one wash pairs and they seem too stiff/corse for a dryer. I thought they would of ended up a lot softer for a full dryer cycle. Maybe half and half or maybe the heat setting?

I'm assuming some brands steam/iron them also after as I have ended up with pairs that dont even look like they've been washed. Mostly from the upper thigh down to the leg opening. But some brands don't bother as the jean will be wrinkled throughout.

[Cold Summer]

Maybe this sounds crazy, but what I would like is loomstate denim that is one-washed (preferably hot water/air dried) before it's cut and sewn into jeans. Then you get the best of both worlds, denim with lots of character and easy sizing/no shrinkage.

[ColonelAngus]

8 minutes ago, Cold Summer said:

Maybe this sounds crazy, but what I would like is loomstate denim that is one-washed (preferably hot water/air dried) before it's cut and sewn into jeans. Then you get the best of both worlds, denim with lots of character and easy sizing/no shrinkage.

probably not a brand you like but N&F has their MIJ series of tenpi treated loomstate denim. BOW sells them.

https://www.blueowl.us/products/loomstate-tenpi-made-in-japan-3-16oz-selvedge-denim?variant=16870805185

Edited April 3, 2017 by ColonelAngus
added link

[Foxy2]

one can certainly line-dry or sun-dry if one has the space and time to hang-up 200-300 pairs per run...

the regular solution is usually industry-grade dryer, finishers or tunnel finishers (look up Veit finisher or Veit tunnel finisher).

[mlwdp]

Anyone able to post a pic of their industrial washers and dryers?  This seems fascinating to get a glimpse of.

[mpukas]

6 hours ago, Cold Summer said:

Maybe this sounds crazy, but what I would like is loomstate denim that is one-washed (preferably hot water/air dried) before it's cut and sewn into jeans. Then you get the best of both worlds, denim with lots of character and easy sizing/no shrinkage.

I agree - this would be an ideal way to keep the loomstate characteristics and take the guess work out of shrinkage. However, I don't think it would be practical for many reason, not the least of which being that if large bolts of raw denim could be washed, the fabric would skew and make it difficult to cut patterns from. 

Edited April 3, 2017 by mpukas

[Cold Summer]

Ahh, that actually makes a lot of sense and wasn't something I'd thought of. I guess that you'd wind up with an angled roll of selvedge denim, and the outseam/legs of the jeans would be at a titled angle relative to the denim. Would still be interesting to see a smaller maker try something like this.

[mpukas]

IH did a model (don't recall which one ATM...) that were "lightly" sanforized, with the intention being to take out the shrinkage guessing game and leg twisting yet keep the loomstate characteristics. 

[propellerbeanie]

Hey guys, this is some really great information. I figured that it was definitely an industrial washing machine that was being used, but wasn't sure about the drying stage. It makes sense that they would use one instead of drying jeans in the sun. Thanks to @Foxy2 for introducing me to a piece of machinery known as a finisher/tunnel finisher - I had no idea those existed. That being said, I did read a while ago about Eternal sun-drying their jeans and N&F doing their tenpi treated MiJ jeans, so I wasn't sure whether that was the norm or not. 

Are all industrial dryers ones that tumble the garments? I obviously don't use one at home (lol); however, my new dryer came with a "dryer rack" which basically sits in the middle of the dryer so that the clothing doesn't tumble around. It's essentially an oven at that stage.

[dilemmaworker]

Dov is back with a new brand, Los Angeles Apparel.

 

[Foxy2]

will be interesting to see if he can get this off the ground again - would be the 3rd or 4th time, as I believe having read somewhere that his company prior to AA did go belly-up as well...

would be great if he can keep it decent this time - and his hands out of the till!

[Iron Horse]

Dov?

Edit: Nevermind!

Edited April 4, 2017 by Iron Horse

[SuperJackle]

Anyone else find the content that denimio puts on their instagram really appalling? It's hard to describe but it's so cringeworthy. Corny maybe?

[kiya]

40 minutes ago, SuperJackle said:

Anyone else find the content that denimio puts on their instagram really appalling? It's hard to describe but it's so cringeworthy. Corny maybe?

 

Oh for sure, except one thing I've learned is that the younger generation in this scene absolutely love cornball marketing.  

I personally can't handle it, but my online denim life was raised on Superfuture where cornball tactics of any kind were instantly shut down.  I have a zero tolerance policy on corny shit.  haha..

Edited April 7, 2017 by kiya

[ColonelAngus]

3 hours ago, SuperJackle said:

Anyone else find the content that denimio puts on their instagram really appalling? It's hard to describe but it's so cringeworthy. Corny maybe?

Their content is no more or less appalling than any other denim IG feed i've seen