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cmboland

Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

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2 hours ago, Double 0 Soul said:

Not to be confused with Duke's local menswear emporium 'Kiltmeout'

:dry:

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Also a first world problem blunder... I got a brand new iron heart white tee in the mail. The cardboard mailer it came in got wet and stained the shirt. Any thoughts how to remove cardboard yellowing?

292B16F6-75DA-4C64-97BC-8E5E3D3F40BF.jpeg

Edited by cmboland

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2 hours ago, cmboland said:

Also a first world problem blunder... I got a brand new iron heart white tee in the mail. The cardboard mailer it came in got wet and stained the shirt. Any thoughts how to remove cardboard yellowing?

292B16F6-75DA-4C64-97BC-8E5E3D3F40BF.jpeg

Can you send it back ? I would 

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5 hours ago, Flash said:

Can you send it back ? I would 

It actually came out super easily. Happy about that at least 

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Does anyone know why none of the western brands use materials like cotton thread for stitching or actual rayon woven labels, and also zinc or iron hardware? I was wondering if it’s just that the finishing factories can’t supply the materials? Perhaps it’s the cost of having them custom made in japan, and shipped to the factories.

This question might belong in the small questions thread but I hoped I might get an actual response here :ph34r:.

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I would think costs of things like hardware made in Japan is negligible, I mean, if you can afford to have huge rolls of heavy denim shipped from Japan then hardware and thread should be pretty cheap in comparison.

As obnoxious as it sounds, I think most western brands just don't care about those details. This is why you also never see stuff like rolled belt loops or rolled back pocket edges on western jeans. You're lucky to even get hidden rivets in most cases. The average western brand thinks "SELVEDGE SELVEDGE SELVEDGE," throws in some half-arsed design detail like a selvedge back pocket edge, and pretty much leaves it at that. They may intentionally be avoiding cotton thread in favor of more durable polyester, but I think they don't care to try to make something that rivals Japanese jeans on attention to detail.

Personally, I still don't really care about vintage-inspired details for the sake of reproducing specific vintage eras of jeans. I really couldn't care less if my favorite jeans are a historically inaccurate blend of 30s, 40s, and 50s details or whatever. But I do think the thought given to those things tends to result in a holistically better designed pair of jeans. What makes the best Japanese brands special to me is that they've carefully calculated how every aspect of the jeans will age over time beyond just the denim. I like cotton thread because of how it feels and ages with the fabric. Same for iron buttons, well designed copper rivets, and so on. Even minor ones like the V-stitch and single-chainstitch waistband stand out because they're indicative of how much thought a brand has put into even the most seemingly inconsequential stuff. (Feel like I should throw this in, my Full Counts have the best-feeling rivet of all the jeans I've ever handled.)

For my money, especially since the price gap between Japanese and American, etc. brands has dramatically narrowed over the years - I feel like a pair of Full Count, Flat Head, Warehouse, Samurai, TCB (especially!) etc. gets you a lot more for your money than most western brands. Really, at this point the best reason to wear western brands is if the design matches your more contemporary aesthetic (3Sixteen) or the fits work better for you than Japanese (certainly a legitimate reason.) I deeply admire Pure Blue Japan and think they do everything right but their cuts suck for me. If they'd offer the XX-011 denim on a fit like the Warehouse 800 or something, I'd buy that immediately.

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^ this had occurred to me as well, but take 3sixteen for example: they are literal partners in selfedge, if I’m not mistaken, and have have tons of experience with the more keen details. Hell, brands like them were insisting on chainstitch runoff on work shirts. So it does keep me wondering. Another detail that irks me about the western brands is their prolific use of thick ass cowhide leather patches. Shit doesn’t age well after washing. 

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Yeah, I dislike the thick veg tan patches as well. I actually like deerskin the most, like on Eternal’s patches, and it ages well. 
 

Maybe the thick patches make sense on a super heavyweight pair, but it’s weird on midweight jeans. 

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I’ve used a few hours of ‘passive listening’ conference calls to undertake some running repairs to the crotch and front pockets of my Full Counts. #WorkingFromHome

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Hahaha... 

However, on Sufu, we triple it up and add sleeves onto our jackets

For the avoidance of doubt, we’re not related tho bro!

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This proves it. The madness has finally set in. One week into social distancing and we’ve got be-denimed fruit loops exercising with beans! Where the chuff will we be by week 4?
 

(No beef MJF9, just yanking yer (wallet) chain). 

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Haha... no beef, no baked beans, just a can of kidney beans from my 48 pack stash :P

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Whoa there Neal. Brum has bendy buses also, bet ours come first before you outside toilet northerners got em

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Not according to 'Artic Conquest' that well known bastion of chronicled articulated public transport..

Screen Shot 2020-03-27 at 19.00.37

..we only had outside toilets because we'd converted our inside toilets t'pigeon loft

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That’s just how those artics roll...

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The yellow bin, in the bus picture I posted, was the creation of Sheffield designer David Mellor. Originally known for cutlery design, in 1965, he ventured into the world of traffic control and street furniture to produce, traffic lights, bus shelters, pedestrian crossing push-button units, post boxes, benches, bollards and that bin.

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It was well though out! folks used to torch them on the regular so the council could just replace the yellow plastic inner without having to replace the entire bin.

When i was an apprentice i made the pattern equipment for the cast iron bins to go into Meadowhall shopping center, back in 1990 the IRA/package bombs were still a thing so rather than the bin exploding causing shrapnel, they were designed to implode/collapse instead.

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I used to see those super-long bendy buses when I was a kid in Houston (Texas.) No idea if they're still around, but I always thought those were funny.

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