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Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

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I have way too many tees, so I used that excuse to buy a vintage MIU Harley tee.  The back was just too cool to pass by.  The Holoubek company that made the shirt is either out of biz or bought out and turned into a mechanical engineering company since I can't find any info about them making any more clothing.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/123318921475

 

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TIL Dry Goods Outfitters is having a artist do some of his work on some of the denim pocket bags.

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delete

Edited by mlwdp

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Japan is now experiencing Typhoon Jebi.  Please be safe, Japanese members!

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Am I the only one who thinks Heddels has really gone downhill since 2/3rds of their fades started coming from Indonesian or Thai brands with indistinguishable super high contrast fades by guys who never wash their jeans?

I feel like I've ragged on this before but I don't like these Indonesian brands. They're like a theme park parody of raw denim. All super heavy weight, super high contrast, pretty generic looking stock fabrics, all trying to knock off the Iron Heart aesthetic. I would much rather wear a "boring" jean like a Left Field Greaser made from Cone denim, or a Sugar Cane 1947, than any of these.

Don't get me wrong, I still love nice looking high contrast fades (and lest you think I have something against Indonesia or whatever, I think Darbir's Flat Head F310s are some of the coolest faded jeans I've ever seen.) But it's like some of these communities take this really narrow view of the hobby where you have to wear some 23 oz. jeans for eighteen months without washing or it doesn't count. Maybe I'm just getting old but I've started to realize that if you don't wash your jeans a certain amount, you're really short-changing yourself as far as bringing out the real color/texture of the fabric, especially really dark ones.

On a slightly different topic, there still seems like a lot of variety around Superfuture as far as washing frequency, denim type, cuts worn, etc. but some places stick with one exaggerated aesthetic. Personally, I think the Denimbro "1890s Coal Miner" look and the Instagram "ultra tapered and cuffed halfway up your calf" look are both silly. I still like most of the Japanese Amekaji look (which ranges from retro-romantic bikers to vintage casual bohemian), and guys around here like Volvo, who have this cool, old-world sort of aesthetic (which is not far off from the Japanese style of magazines like Clutch, etc.) I wish it was easier to follow the Japanese looks because there's really a lot more solid inspiration there than what we usually see on Instagram, etc., especially in as far as fit is concerned.

My style has changed a lot over the last few years but since I've settled on 70s Chucks as my shoe of choice and started wearing a straight-fit jean almost every day, I'm frequently tucking in my tee and feel like I'm cosplaying as somebody from The Sandlot, but I find it pretty cohesive and it feels like it naturally flows out of wearing items I like, rather than consciously aiming for some particular aesthetic. I do have way more appreciation than I used to for some of the more vintage repro style brands like Fullcount, Warehouse, etc. even if Flat Head is still my favorite overall.

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At times, I have often wondered if the people who wrote on Heddels also read the board.  They have already written an article on Swissjeansfreak.

I might send them my retired APC standard fades but I don't follow their fades like I used to.

Wish they would write more on good year welts and boots offerings as Wesco, White's, and Nick's have recently stepped up their game lately.

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IMO choosing to do fades every day rather than once a week wasn't a great move. It all kind of blends together now. It actually would have made more sense to do it this way in the early days of the site, then change to once a week, since it seems like traffic/community involvement (based on the near-extinct comment sections) isn't what it once was.

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^ Just like the jeans it features, the interest has faded over the years...

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Re the SE Asia denim heads   there certainly is an ultra theme with a lot of the guys and brands but like wise there are some really well dressed guys over there that really know their stuff. I think you have to remember how big the scene is in places like Thailand, with that many people into it there's going to be wave of extreme examples. 

As for brands I have to mention Nama Denim, small indie thai brand, I have a chore coat and heavy chambray shirt from them. No frills or gimmicks really well made stuff. I often choose the Nama shirt over my UES, IH or Momos for example.

Re Heddles agree totally with the above but still check in quite regularly, mainly for the 5 of series. It's the only  thing I really read on there. 

I think Iron Horse is the editor or something. 

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Inspired by @Critical Observer post, is there any videos online or pictures showing how black denim is dyed/made in Japan?  Always wondered how they dye their denim in black.  Or at least anyone explaining how they do it.

Edited by mlwdp

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On 9/7/2018 at 10:03 PM, Cold Summer said:

Am I the only one who thinks Heddels has really gone downhill since 2/3rds of their fades started coming from Indonesian or Thai brands with indistinguishable super high contrast fades by guys who never wash their jeans?

I feel like I've ragged on this before but I don't like these Indonesian brands. They're like a theme park parody of raw denim. All super heavy weight, super high contrast, pretty generic looking stock fabrics, all trying to knock off the Iron Heart aesthetic. I would much rather wear a "boring" jean like a Left Field Greaser made from Cone denim, or a Sugar Cane 1947, than any of these.

I hear you dude, but I can only assign fades that we actually receive; the majority of submissions are as you describe, with very few "boring", vintage-style fades. Thankfully we have been getting more leather/patina submissions, though. Still, I'm beholden to what people send my way, so if you guys want to start sending in more fades I'm all for it and then some. ^_^

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That's cool, somehow I missed that you were on staff with them. I wrote a handful of articles back when they were still RawrDenim, but kinda quit when I ran out of stuff that interested me to write about, hah.

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2 hours ago, Iron Horse said:

I hear you dude, but I can only assign fades that we actually receive; the majority of submissions are as you describe, with very few "boring", vintage-style fades. Thankfully we have been getting more leather/patina submissions, though. Still, I'm beholden to what people send my way, so if you guys want to start sending in more fades I'm all for it and then some. ^_^

Heddels jean scout finder was a Godsend.  Whoever took the time to make that, was a lifesaver.

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3 hours ago, mlwdp said:

Heddels jean scout finder was a Godsend.  Whoever took the time to make that, was a lifesaver.

That would be one of the other editors, but I'm glad you like it. B) 

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Popped into Clutch Cafe shop today, on Great Portland Street.

Really nice to see and touch lots of interesting brands and see familiar faces running the shop. 

Realised I should have taken pictures inside as it looks amazing but by then I was too far, so all I have is this:

67FD1A1C-F743-4447-979B-CA7567E2818A.thumb.jpeg.6ae6316e61756a5b669c14f74ec0f699.jpeg

Yayyyy

Edited by Toegun

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8 hours ago, Iron Horse said:

That would be one of the other editors, but I'm glad you like it. B) 

Let them know about adding TCB and Tanuki on there, if they're stilling updating.

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7 hours ago, mlwdp said:

Let them know about adding TCB and Tanuki on there, if they're stilling updating.

Will do, we need those up there for obvious reasons.

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On 9/7/2018 at 7:03 AM, Cold Summer said:

Am I the only one who thinks Heddels has really gone downhill since 2/3rds of their fades started coming from Indonesian or Thai brands with indistinguishable super high contrast fades by guys who never wash their jeans?

I feel like I've ragged on this before but I don't like these Indonesian brands. They're like a theme park parody of raw denim. All super heavy weight, super high contrast, pretty generic looking stock fabrics, all trying to knock off the Iron Heart aesthetic. I would much rather wear a "boring" jean like a Left Field Greaser made from Cone denim, or a Sugar Cane 1947, than any of these.

Don't get me wrong, I still love nice looking high contrast fades (and lest you think I have something against Indonesia or whatever, I think Darbir's Flat Head F310s are some of the coolest faded jeans I've ever seen.) But it's like some of these communities take this really narrow view of the hobby where you have to wear some 23 oz. jeans for eighteen months without washing or it doesn't count. Maybe I'm just getting old but I've started to realize that if you don't wash your jeans a certain amount, you're really short-changing yourself as far as bringing out the real color/texture of the fabric, especially really dark ones.

On a slightly different topic, there still seems like a lot of variety around Superfuture as far as washing frequency, denim type, cuts worn, etc. but some places stick with one exaggerated aesthetic. Personally, I think the Denimbro "1890s Coal Miner" look and the Instagram "ultra tapered and cuffed halfway up your calf" look are both silly. I still like most of the Japanese Amekaji look (which ranges from retro-romantic bikers to vintage casual bohemian), and guys around here like Volvo, who have this cool, old-world sort of aesthetic (which is not far off from the Japanese style of magazines like Clutch, etc.) I wish it was easier to follow the Japanese looks because there's really a lot more solid inspiration there than what we usually see on Instagram, etc., especially in as far as fit is concerned.

My style has changed a lot over the last few years but since I've settled on 70s Chucks as my shoe of choice and started wearing a straight-fit jean almost every day, I'm frequently tucking in my tee and feel like I'm cosplaying as somebody from The Sandlot, but I find it pretty cohesive and it feels like it naturally flows out of wearing items I like, rather than consciously aiming for some particular aesthetic. I do have way more appreciation than I used to for some of the more vintage repro style brands like Fullcount, Warehouse, etc. even if Flat Head is still my favorite overall.

Yes, Heddels has gone massively down hill and not just in terms of only featuring Indonesian fades.

Something I would like to point out is the fact that Indonesia is still earlier on in their raw denim journey. I would imagine that in a few more years, the horizons will broaden. Perhaps not, but sikk fadez were seemingly the only thing that mattered in the western denim scene for quite some time as well. Also, we are only seeing what is likely not their entire scene. Perhaps there are some who do prefer different fades and styles, but we're only seeing what is submitted to Heddels. My guess is that this would be a very tiny minority, but it still could exist.

In terms of denim fabrics, washing, fading, etc, there is definitely variety here. However, in terms of style, I would argue otherwise. I may get hate for this, but to me, the style in WAYWT is kinda basic boots, t shirt, flannel look and often streetwear-esque due to the proliferation of sneakers, Red Wing, and Viberg. Although, I will say that it has gotten more diverse, especially in 2018 which is really nice. Denimbro is not as coal miner as it used to be, but that place is dead anyway and really has been for quite some time. The elitist snobbery really went too far during the final Denimbro and it hasn't gotten any better since.  Instagram was my least favorite in terms of aesthetic until I found some dudes with some really good style that don't just do the standard IG thing. Skinny jeans made by some random brand that will be dead in a year, 3Sixteen shirts and jackets, Chup socks, and boots from Truman and Red Wing are all you need. Still, the general quality of photo is better on there and the community is the only one that has really made me friends in real life (aside from @itsbenhere ) so I like it anyway.

I actually really dig the Sandlot look, personally. I wear sneakers a lot now, even if I don't take pictures of them as much. I don't even know what my style is exactly. Probably "late 1940's wannabe" and I'm just fine with that. I'm happy to cosplay because I know that I, not anyone else, will ever actually look or be as cool as @volvo240thebest is.

Edited by dudewuttheheck

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I like the flannel/jeans/Red Wing or Viberg look, but what I think hurts it is some people's insistence on wearing it with the tightest jeans possible (and often the shirt is too tight as well.) It just looks weird to wear heavy duty boots with such slim jeans, which is something I didn't necessarily realize before. Slimmer fitting jeans look good with sneakers and Chelsea boots ala the SLP look. I think the Japanese take on this style, where you'd wear a flannel and straight leg jeans with a flat cap, down vest, long wallet, and Pecos-style boots, is more appealing and doesn't look like it's trying to emulate some specific historic blue collar uniform.

Your style reminds me of the sophisticated biker ala Clutch and similar Japanese magazines :)

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On 9/7/2018 at 4:03 PM, Cold Summer said:

Am I the only one who thinks Heddels has really gone downhill since 2/3rds of their fades started coming from Indonesian or Thai brands with indistinguishable super high contrast fades by guys who never wash their jeans?

I feel like I've ragged on this before but I don't like these Indonesian brands. They're like a theme park parody of raw denim. All super heavy weight, super high contrast, pretty generic looking stock fabrics, all trying to knock off the Iron Heart aesthetic. I would much rather wear a "boring" jean like a Left Field Greaser made from Cone denim, or a Sugar Cane 1947, than any of these.

Don't get me wrong, I still love nice looking high contrast fades (and lest you think I have something against Indonesia or whatever, I think Darbir's Flat Head F310s are some of the coolest faded jeans I've ever seen.) But it's like some of these communities take this really narrow view of the hobby where you have to wear some 23 oz. jeans for eighteen months without washing or it doesn't count. Maybe I'm just getting old but I've started to realize that if you don't wash your jeans a certain amount, you're really short-changing yourself as far as bringing out the real color/texture of the fabric, especially really dark ones.

Hi mate, I'm Indonesian and I kinda agree with your opinion. I think a lot of people especially the ones that just newly introduced to raw denim  is still holding on to the beliefs that washing your jeans often is bad and you have to wait until 6 months or longer and then you seawash the shit out of your jeans to get that sicc fadez. Some of the guys even believe that if you want to buy raw denim, you have to buy the stiffest and the heaviest jeans that can "self stand" ( and apparently one of the brand owners here thinks like that too). And I think with a lot of new Indonesian denim brand popping up every other week it became clear that the majority of the customers want their denim heavy, deep colored, stiff and fade really contrasty. But not all of Indonesian denim brands are like that, brands like old blue co and warpweft are keeping it real with great concepts, really high quality and distinct details, great looking denim that not necessarily heavy but have a great texture and hue, and the brand owners know their stuff really well.

One of the reasons a lot of people still practicin the no wash and heavy contrast look is because they want something that distinguishable, something that can sets them apart from your generic Levi's. The other reason is the lack of education from the brands itself and with our beloved forum (darahkubiru) is in the state of limbo it became unclear for the newbies on how to choose and treat their raw denim. I don't have anything against heavy and contrast looking denim, but I also think it's really boring sometimes. But there's a new place that we can share our knowledge on raw denim and other related stuffs, a line square group called denim enthusiast that can be accessed with line messenger. It's really fun and we have a monthly gathering in Jakarta so that we can share and meet a lot of local brands owner. And with events such as wall of fades it's actually really easy to learn a thing or two from them.

I think sufu used to be the go to forum for us beside darahkubiru but now not a lot of Indonesian regularly post here. The one that regularly post like @redragon , @oomslokop , and @jigsaw maybe can weigh in on this matter. And lastly this is all just my own opinion and you may agree or disagree with it and sorry for any grammatical error;)

 

 

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high contrast fades are still grail to me because I've never gotten a pair to that state.  my jeans always get dirty and I have to wash them...

 

only regret I have is a pair of RRL that I got away with washing twice in 18months and didn't really pop. They look cool, but I should have washed those more. 

Edited by givemefive

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7 hours ago, Cold Summer said:

I like the flannel/jeans/Red Wing or Viberg look, but what I think hurts it is some people's insistence on wearing it with the tightest jeans possible (and often the shirt is too tight as well.) It just looks weird to wear heavy duty boots with such slim jeans, which is something I didn't necessarily realize before. Slimmer fitting jeans look good with sneakers and Chelsea boots ala the SLP look. I think the Japanese take on this style, where you'd wear a flannel and straight leg jeans with a flat cap, down vest, long wallet, and Pecos-style boots, is more appealing and doesn't look like it's trying to emulate some specific historic blue collar uniform.

Your style reminds me of the sophisticated biker ala Clutch and similar Japanese magazines :)

I definitely agree with you. While that look is basic, I think it still looks good... As long as the jeans fit properly. The Japanese take on it that you describe is also what I prefer, though I have seen some westerners do that look with a classic looking western hat and pull it off really well.

Damn! I will take that as a compliment. That is essentially my favorite style.

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Delete

Edited by mlwdp

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I prefer the sophisticated biker style as well. In addition to southern Californian leisure wear look :)

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20 hours ago, dudewuttheheck said:

Something I would like to point out is the fact that Indonesia is still earlier on in their raw denim journey. I would imagine that in a few more years, the horizons will broaden.

this is like bruno mars calling prince a noob in funk 

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I like how more members are putting their denim to work like @ecsong187 and others.

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