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Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.


cmboland

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Yeah…I get that that's probably what would be best for them in the long run, but there's no way in the world that I'm dry cleaning a thermal tee shirt; if I can't throw it in the machine and hang it out to dry it's useless to me

Merino should be plenty robust to washing after the initial shrink—but the shrink's still a killer

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Not sur where to post it. But I've been away from the Japanese rawe denim "scene" for a while but have regained the interest. I've seen quite some posts about japanese jeans with arcs and red tab. 8 years ago when I was active here it were all banned due to Levis. Has this changed over the years or why can I see some new produced jeans with Red Tabs? (TCBxSufu contest jeans is one example)

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I have (and have had) plenty of merino wool jumpers, mainly John Smedley. I always wash them in a 30 machine wash (wool programme) and have never had any of them shrink. The Stevenson tees may be different but I’m not sure how.

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6 hours ago, Broark said:

Who makes good quality thermals? Any recommendations?

https://www.icebreaker.com/en-gb/mens/merino-tech-lite-laidback-short-sleeve-pocket-crewe-t-shirt/104768.html?dwvar_104768_color=208
 

These are very light (they do lighter), very efficient and easy to look after - having to dry clean thermals is a nonsense IMO. I wear these hillwalking (because then I won’t stink) and fairly often as underwear on colder days. I like the fit but they do a variety of fits ... but you could also probably get a cheaper equivalent or often enough something on sale.

I’ve also got FW thermals and these are almost immortal. I’ve worn them a lot over years and they get thrown in the wash without consideration but I think they’ll be far too warm for your climate unless you want to wear it as a single layer just as a heavy long sleeve t-shirt. 

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5 hours ago, Jared_Lee said:

I also have a variety of Homespun from about 10 years ago. They all fit differently, but all good quality and better fitting than the Studio, just not nearly as thick.

I cut the sleeve off my Homespun yesterday, i needed a couple of rags to polish the fingerprints off the glass on a picture frame i was making and couldn't be arsed to go look for any :D

Ive got 5 or 6 thermals from Marks & Sparks, they're all 20+ years old and beat to fuck and yellowing (you've probably seen them before) i don't see the point in splurging big bucks on thermals, if they keep me warm they've served their purpose, no point in buying what folks here deem 'quality' when i can get 20+ years wear (and actual workwear at that) out of £8 specials from M&S.

I wear merino base layers for cold weather cycling, they too keep me nice and warm with the added benefit that (as Duke says) i can sweat in them every day and only have to wash them once/week, i can't remember what brands they are, the labels have washed off but if it's 100% merino and it's ethically made, i don't suppose it really matter what brand they are?

I also have 400g Woolpower baselayers, long sleeve tops and leggins for cold weather camping, again, i can wear these all week 24hrs/day i sleep in them, hike in them and they still don't smell although they are far too heavy for cycling/running.

P1030244.JPG

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1 hour ago, Double 0 Soul said:

I wear merino base layers for cold weather cycling, they too keep me nice and warm with the added benefit that (as Duke says) i can sweat in them every day and only have to wash them once/week, i can't remember what brands they are, the labels have washed off but if it's 100% merino and it's ethically made, i don't suppose it really matter what brand they are?

I also have 400g Woolpower baselayers, long sleeve tops and leggins for cold weather camping, again, i can wear these all week 24hrs/day i sleep in them, hike in them and they still don't smell although they are far too heavy for cycling/running.

 

Merino is the best - and brand is irrelevant (mostly). Silk is a good base too, with the added bonus of being able to get more, erm, exotic designs ....

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2 hours ago, Duke Mantee said:

https://www.icebreaker.com/en-gb/mens/merino-tech-lite-laidback-short-sleeve-pocket-crewe-t-shirt/104768.html?dwvar_104768_color=208
 

These are very light (they do lighter), very efficient and easy to look after - having to dry clean thermals is a nonsense IMO. I wear these hillwalking (because then I won’t stink) and fairly often as underwear on colder days. I like the fit but they do a variety of fits ... but you could also probably get a cheaper equivalent or often enough something on sale.

I’ve also got FW thermals and these are almost immortal. I’ve worn them a lot over years and they get thrown in the wash without consideration but I think they’ll be far too warm for your climate unless you want to wear it as a single layer just as a heavy long sleeve t-shirt. 

These look very similar to some Outlier merino tees I picked up years back. I use them for running now, as I can wash them once a week and after multiple runs they don't smell at all.
And actually your last bit about FW might be what I'm after. I'm looking for a thermal to wear as a heavy long sleeve t-shirt under a jacket.

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1 hour ago, Broark said:

These look very similar to some Outlier merino tees I picked up years back. I use them for running now, as I can wash them once a week and after multiple runs they don't smell at all.
And actually your last bit about FW might be what I'm after. I'm looking for a thermal to wear as a heavy long sleeve t-shirt under a jacket.

I’ve misunderstood your needs then - FW thermals are very good. Because they’re mostly body fitting I wear them under shirts and the like, at my age you don’t need your clothes to mock you

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I have a couple of these LL Bean "two-layer river driver's" shirts. They are merino/cotton/nylon and made in Canada by a company called Stanfield's. They are pretty warm, if a little thick. I have a henley and a crew, which they don't seem to carry any more, and I prefer the henley (the crew is almost like a mock turtleneck).

https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/18145?page=two-layer-river-drivers-shirt-traditional-fit-henley

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@Broark If that's what you're looking for, Uniqlo crew neck thermals are good. Mid-weight, bright white, clean fit. My only complaint is sizing. The XS is still too big for me. I wear thermal almost exclusively as underwear so I like the fit to be extra slim to start. That way after a couple times up an over the head, it isn't bagged out and bulky when tucked in. Check those out. They're a good price. They look good enough and they're more substantial than Hanes, etc.

@Double 0 Soul That's one of the Homespun I have. It's a bit yellowed in places and definitely headed for a similar fate. Great shirt overall though. I've had it since 2012. It's one of those larger fits that works well because it's super soft and drapes well. Heavier waffle won't do that when it's baggy.

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1 hour ago, Jared_Lee said:

 

@Double 0 Soul That's one of the Homespun I have. It's a bit yellowed in places and definitely headed for a similar fate. Great shirt overall though. I've had it since 2012. It's one of those larger fits that works well because it's super soft and drapes well. Heavier waffle won't do that when it's baggy.

My size Medium is too large for me which is why it was relegated to workwear...if i remember rightly Jared, the ones made in Canada for sale via Inventory (who were the European distribution arm of Homespum) were larger than their non-euro brothers hence the discrepancies in sizing, i can't remember where i bought mine from but it wouldn't have been Inventory because their UK shipping costs were flippin astronomical but when i sized it up i didn't think it was one of those destined for the European market but turned out it was. Do yours have 2x tags on the inside? one with a Canadian flag and the other saying Inventory for Europe. You're right about the softness and even though it's supersoft, it was also hard wearing.

Speaking of which i still have 2x copies of Inventory Issue 1 from 2009, i lent one to a friend, he left it out on his bench in the garden where it got wet in a rain shower so he replaced it...Whoops!

IMG_7026

 

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5 hours ago, Jared_Lee said:

@Double 0 Soul Mine do have the second tag, but Made for J Crew. I got them all when I was working for them and we carried Homespun at Liquor Store.

 

@Jared_Lee Jared, just wondering what your opinion is on Todd Snyder? I read somewhere that he was creative director or something at Jcrew awhile back (before muytjens?), and also recently read that TS is now utilizing the liquor store location. Just thought I’d ask, being that you worked there during their heyday. 

Myself, I like much of what TS puts out, but find the quality to be hit or miss. Price on sale is usually good, but msrp a bit steep for what you get. 
 

Sorry to derail the thread folks!

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@SuperJackle No worries, this is the thread where derailed trains are steered. I don't have an opinion on Tod Snyder. I've never worn any. It doesn't really interest me. They are now using the 235 W Broadway store. He was the Men's Creative Director and founded J Crew's Liquor Store alongside Micky back in 2009. I would say he was primarily responsible for J Crew's menswear image that influenced a generation. As for branded goods at Liquor Store, that was Jamie Sabuda (sp?). He brought J Crew together with Mister Freedom, Warehouse, Homespun, etc.

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I just measured my most best fitting "size 34" TCB Seamen Trousers by aligning the front and back waist band together that read (17"/34"), which seems about right.

I measured my waist (below the belly) as 37"! I then went ahead and began to measuring up and down from hip to waist trying to find the lowest reading (36") whistle holding the measure tape firmly...

Why am I able to wear size 34 TCB comfortably yet my waist/hip measurement is off 3 inches?

 

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I had the thought this morning that I’ve never had any luck getting decent fading on the thighs and lap of my jeans. But there are some people for whom those areas are by far the highest contrast parts of all their pairs. I’m wondering if anyone, either from experience or conjecture, might have an idea how this happens? I’m having trouble thinking of realistic situations where people’s thighs are being abraded with such frequency. Drying hands? Pushing through subway turnstiles? Regular VIP bookings at the club? (I love imagining an alternate universe where somebody’s thigh fades come entirely from paying for lap dances, and maybe their knee and butt fades come from the dominatrix... :P)

anyway any insight would be really helpful, it’s been bothering me all morning!

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19 minutes ago, chicote said:

anyway any insight would be really helpful, it’s been bothering me all morning!

 

For me, lap and thigh fades seem mostly due to my use of satchels with a long shoulder strap – I don't drive, so I'm always walking or sitting on public transport with a bag on my lap

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UVAVU @unders
I think they fade quicker if you have big/athletic thighs and the jeans are tighter there, similarly if you have slimner thighs but wear tight/slim cuts. If you have slim thighs and wear loose cuts, then you won’t get those fades. If, conversely you have big thighs and wear slim cuts, then you just look like an overstuffed sausage!

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