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Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.


cmboland

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3 hours ago, Geeman said:

Back in the raving days I'd wear a different colour kicker on each foot!

The Mrs still wears em although always matching. 

Remember the 1990 rudeboy style? (blink and you missed it) i think the elasticated jeans loop filtered down/crossed over from this... we'de previously had loose fitting jeans with very large hems which by 1990/91 were fucked and stepped on but being cash-poor, workingclass kids from the north we couldn't afford to just chuck them away and replace so we would 'adapt them' by cutting them off and tuck them under a loop of elastic so when you often found yourself in a muddy field, hands in the air, waiting for the sun to come up, you could rest assured that your hems wer'nt traipsing in the mud. 

I had Viking trainers from 20th Century Clothing, i also had a Chipie sweatshirt.... there's still an old nylon Naf-Naf wallet of mine in a drawer at my folks house but this was more of a steeze which i admired rather than embraced.

There's an article here from The Face magazine, double click on the pages to large them up. I miss these British styles bubbles...halcyon days.

Gwar-Izm

Edited by Double 0 Soul
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Naf Naf if you had money, Naf Co 54 off Leicester market if your parents were tight arses.

NewMan was pretty big in my school along with Chipie and Chevignon. All the girls wore Sweater Shop jumpers.

Troop, Travel Fox or Ewing trainers if you wanted to stand out from the hoards of reebok pump and Adidas torsion. Or just go with a pair of timberland boat shoes.

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Soviet was a fashion brand

https://www.soviet.com/customerservices/otherinformation/aboutus

We used to get all our gear from a jeans shop in Leicester that stocked all those types of brands (sonetti, firetrap, diesel) along with cheaper variations of them (sweatshirts with stuff like “easy co” embroidered on them). This would have been early 90’s.

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Soviet are a blast from the past. I had a red Soviet sweatshirt. Chippie and Chevingnon were well sought after. I had a pair of Chippie jeans but never managed any Chevingnon.

Very late 80s to early 90s I was into Duffer of St George. They were cool back then. I noticed Barrie Sharp, who was part of the crew who started Duffer, is still going, doing collabs with Trickers for instance. Early 90s I had Burro and Mitchiko Koshino as well.

Plus John Richmond Destroy.

Edited by MJF9
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NafNaf from Hurleys Menswear in Manchester. Orange Juice (Joe Bloggs) jeans with huge hems, hoodies and tees from Stolen from Ivor in the Arndale.

I had a pair of soviet jeans around the mid 90’s, I remember being pissed off that pocket stitching busted the first time I washed them.

 

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On 2/22/2020 at 7:41 PM, Maynard Friedman said:

Obviously, most of us here wear good denim, sweatshirts, chambray/denim/flannel shirts, denim/leather/military style jackets, quality footwear (whether boots, shoes, sneakers, etc). Do you consider a name for this style other than the obvious (although to me, cringeworthy) ‘denimhead’? The one I like, which, I think, is used by Free & Easy magazine, is ‘Rugged Man’ style.

another free & easy appellation that might be more appropriate for many here (from around 2006) ...

IMG_1157.JPG

with some other sub-sections in the same issue that points towards the dad's style caste system of rugged style... mr professor / rugged boy / rugged family and so on...

IMG_1177.JPG

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and then some exponents... goro-san surpasses hipster workwear categories...

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and this fine fishing fellow points to a glittering road of potential accessorising...

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as for the so-called 'miner cosplay' moniker through at the D-bros... I remember that historically the term 'macaroni' was used in the Georgian era to label those who enthusiastically embraced European style without appropriate restraint... what foodstuff best points to the 1870-1910 period - candle-wax coated beef jerky...

On 2/22/2020 at 9:49 PM, Cold Summer said:

Lately, I've been gravitating toward "Japanese Americana." "Amekaji" would be my next choice, and hey! Everyone loves gratuitous Japanese loanwords.

I fully endorse loanwords, as with macaroni above: I would push for myself as ametora-otaku (american traditional geek) over the anxious manliness of rugged style (I know which side I find myself when the jocks and nerds collide...)

going back some years: 'utility-dandy' is the phrase that first jumped to mind when trying on calf-skin boots that were built well enough to climb mountains... such a phrase does not point toward heritage origin (American or English) but merely towards utility conjoined with styled appearance that retains functionality and with the simple admission of artifice...

... and once more, to history, whilst the dandy may labour at his look, it is with Beau Brummel that ur-dandy, that style-with-ease and pared down dress for men reaches a near-religious discipline; foppish wigs and make-up were discarded for clean lines and natural hair; the origins of the simple dark trouser-suit emerge there also (and apparently he spent hours concocting his neck ties to look as if they were just thrown on... an unpalatable truth: steez is an art that is laboured towards... )

and from the same issue of f&e: a great d-1(?) that names my style best...

IMG_1169.JPG

Edited by bartlebyyphonics
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Always good to read Bartles expertly considered high-brow input. This reminds me of The Chap’s wonderful use of ‘anarcho-dandyist’, although for a slightly different aesthetic.

I’m strongly coming down in favour of Illoominati these days.

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3 hours ago, MJF9 said:

Plus John Richmond Destroy.

 
Long sleeve Destroy t-shirts B)
 
My wife's older sis used to work for Rita Britton (Pollyanna) so always had access to couture, her clubbing days ran.. sort of 84-89, she saved everything, mainly BodyMap, Westwood and John Galliano, it was a perfect little time capsule of British fashion but when she moved house she racked it all up in the attic room on shop rails and moths ate fucking everything.
Buffalo hats with holes in...how depressing.
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That is serious bad luck. The vintage luxury brand market is doing so well these days.

I invested in a Destroy reversible bomber jacket in about 91 (when it was fresh and new!). Black and white one side, a kind of perforated red and black on the reserve (which remained on the reverse).  I was well happy with it. I got it from a store on St Ann’s Street in Manchester - you had to buzz for a security guard to let you in, which added to the story, and they had just a few in a treasure trove downstairs. I wish I still had it for the vintage reasons above. 

Edited by MJF9
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^ That shop was L’Homme if I remember correctly. In the late 80s it used to have a tall man in a dark suit sitting behind a desk bring very minimalist I seem to recall.

I bet you used to wear that jacket hanging off your shoulders, with a ‘BOY’ baseball cap, brim upturned! :laugh2:

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I’ve kept a couple of ‘standout’ items from my younger days. I bought this velvet-esque Paul Smith beauty in 1990 and used to love wearing it with off-white Liberto jeans :unsure2:

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D09BA6FF-974E-4954-8D19-5C99A7F615B7.jpeg

C8CE0041-8F49-40A3-AEDE-6962A5A7A48C.jpeg

Edited by Maynard Friedman
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Yes L’Homme’s the one - good recall. I thought he was security ha. The bloke used to look you up and down before selectively opening the door.

Nah non of that BOY stuff. Katherine Hamnet cream chinos featured somewhere!

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The Liberace of old London tarn..

Remember when you could get flights to Amsterdam for £29.50 from John Lennon airport, the Mrs and I were huge advocates but we needed passports to make such things happen, these be those from 1994, we would have been around 20/21yrs old..

IMG_7321

.

IMG_7316

 

Edited by Double 0 Soul
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9 hours ago, Double 0 Soul said:

Remember the 1990 rudeboy style? (blink and you missed it) i think the elasticated jeans loop filtered down/crossed over from this... we'de previously had loose fitting jeans with very large hems which by 1990/91 were fucked and stepped on but being cash-poor, workingclass kids from the north we couldn't afford to just chuck them away and replace so we would 'adapt them' by cutting them off and tuck them under a loop of elastic so when you often found yourself in a muddy field, hands in the air, waiting for the sun to come up, you could rest assured that your hems wer'nt traipsing in the mud. 

I had Viking trainers from 20th Century Clothing, i also had a Chipie sweatshirt.... there's still an old nylon Naf-Naf wallet of mine in a drawer at my folks house but this was more of a steeze which i admired rather than embraced.

There's an article here from The Face magazine, double click on the pages to large them up. I miss these British styles bubbles...halcyon days.

Gwar-Izm

Absolutey, hours of experimenting with the best hem securing techniques

9 hours ago, Jimmy Tarbuck said:

Naf Naf if you had money, Naf Co 54 off Leicester market if your parents were tight arses.

NewMan was pretty big in my school along with Chipie and Chevignon. All the girls wore Sweater Shop jumpers.

Troop, Travel Fox or Ewing trainers if you wanted to stand out from the hoards of reebok pump and Adidas torsion. Or just go with a pair of timberland boat shoes.

Naf Co ruined Naf Naf!

Chipie meant you had cash which required funding from 'alternative' business methods for a guy who ĺeft home and lived on his own by his 17th birthday....

Troop was a few years earlier for me but travel fox were the bollocks. Here was a pair going round my area that must have passed hands (or feet) at least 10 times. 

Blue and yellow adidas torsion :D

8 hours ago, MJF9 said:

Soviet are a blast from the past. I had a red Soviet sweatshirt. Chippie and Chevingnon were well sought after. I had a pair of Chippie jeans but never managed any Chevingnon.

Very late 80s to early 90s I was into Duffer of St George. They were cool back then. I noticed Barrie Sharp, who was part of the crew who started Duffer, is still going, doing collabs with Trickers for instance. Early 90s I had Burro and Mitchiko Koshino as well.

Plus John Richmond Destroy.

Yes to Duffer! Long sleeve t, different coloured sleeves with a number 9 on the back if I recall correctly?

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First time i remember seeing Travel Fox... one Saturday i was walking down Division St in Sheff and there was a line of peeps outside FON records, DJ's and such queueing for the imports, white labels and test pressings, they wore black leather jackets with Travel Fox on the back, it left quite an impression on me, i bought BDP's Criminal Minded that day for £9 on import so it must have been 1987.

There's an article about the rise and fall of Troop here

Edited by Double 0 Soul
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1 hour ago, Geeman said:

Yes to Duffer! Long sleeve t, different coloured sleeves with a number 9 on the back if I recall correctly?

I had a few different Duffer tops - black with white ringer style arms and neck, knitted polos, a old school footy style long sleeved tee in green with ecru stripes on the arms iirc!

16 minutes ago, Maynard Friedman said:

Someone’s going to tell us about their British Knights next!

Guilty - burgundy and black high top British Knights! Pretty sure they were a cheaper alternative to something but cannot remember what atm.

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I used to like the 'Lonley Hearts' column in the back of Hip-Hop Connection, there was always some dude looking fierce in full Troop suit, Fila's, SPX hat, 3-finger rings and dollar rope wanting to meet a 'fly-girl' for romantic walks in the park..

 

Now who had a pair of these bad-boys in 83?

 

Image result for nfl linebacker sneakers

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7 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

^ That shop was L’Homme if I remember correctly. In the late 80s it used to have a tall man in a dark suit sitting behind a desk bring very minimalist I seem to recall.

I bet you used to wear that jacket hanging off your shoulders, with a ‘BOY’ baseball cap, brim upturned! :laugh2:

You thinking of the late great Richard Creme? Lovely guy

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11 hours ago, Double 0 Soul said:

I was still a young teen with zero dispoable so i was more of an observer to these passing street styles, i was probably wearing Puma States in 87.

A surge of emotion hearing someone mention States! Clydes were just a spin off.

Anyone talking about UK BBOY styles in the mid to late eighties who doesn't mention States, clearly wasn't there! Adidas, Troop etc all had their day but it was blue or green Puma states with fat laces that were the goto sneakers for any UK BBOY.  

When they started to get harder to find I'd buy them in sizes 2 to big and just wear extra socks/insoles etc!

Also used to use purple shoe dye and white posca pens  on them once they got beat up to make em last longer and of course, look extra Fly!:ph34r:

Anyone ever make the trip down to 4 Star General in Carnaby Street?

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31 minutes ago, Geeman said:

A surge of emotion hearing someone mention States! Clydes were just a spin off.

Anyone talking about UK BBOY styles in the mid to late eighties who doesn't mention States, clearly wasn't there! Adidas, Troop etc all had their day but it was blue or green Puma states with fat laces that were the goto sneakers for any UK BBOY.  

When they started to get harder to find I'd buy them in sizes 2 to big and just wear extra socks/insoles etc!

We used to cut the padded tongue off old trainers and pack it behind the tongue of our States for extra fatness.

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10 hours ago, Jimmy Tarbuck said:

Beauties!

They were a step up from the NFL sweatshirt that everyone at school had despite having no knowledge of the sport let alone the team plastered across their chest.

Indeed, i remember the Chicago Bears being lauded because they had some dude called The Refrigerator.. this was back when morbid obesity was still celebrated and diabetes was considered a life goal. :D

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