Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

[Maynard Friedman]

Yes, they are totally non-coneventional.

[Broark]

Thanks @conqueror, might give Tender socks a spin. I’ve just been wearing Uniqlo and Darntough lately.

[IDIOT BITCH]

On 9/26/2019 at 8:29 AM, Cold Summer said:

I saw this madness mentioned on Instagram and had to share it here, Todd Shelton's seven rules for clothing.

These are all stupid, but #6 is probably the worst.

It's been mentioned, but this honestly isn't bad advice for someone operating with clue zero on how to dress. While a sufu regular almost certainly gets how to break "rules" and make it work--how to style!--there are loads of people who don't know where to begin improving how they look, or even understand that there are things they could do better! These are easy points for a jorts-and-Big Dogs-tee type of reader to follow and start to figure out how they want to look.

Hard disagree with the point about socks though. Always wear fun socks.

[Iron Horse]

2 hours ago, IDIOT BITCH said:

Big Dogs-tee type of reader

Dude. 

Haven't seen one of those since like 1996.

 

[Bobbo]

Did another little interview. This time with Johan Åberg, aka Dye for indigo. Johan holds courses here in Gothenburg about indigo dyeing, shibori and sashiko mending. 

http://indigoveins.com/dye-for-indigo-interview-with-johan-aberg/

Happy reading!

[Broark]

For you guys that were discussing how much you dislike asymmetrical pockets, you're really going to hate this FC x Post O'alls chambray. 

[shredwin_206]

Oh god. My OCD is going wild! Haha 

[mlwdp]

8 hours ago, Broark said:

For you guys that were discussing how much you dislike asymmetrical pockets, you're really going to hate this FC x Post O'alls chambray. 

I can see this guy being a real fan of this shirt!

[mpukas]

I'm getting an uncontrollable spasm in my neck

[Iron Horse]

14 hours ago, Broark said:

For you guys that were discussing how much you dislike asymmetrical pockets, you're really going to hate this FC x Post O'alls chambray. 
 

Going for a repro modern thing, are they?  Pocket on the right is at the right height for a repro shirt (at or just under the third button), pocket on the right is like most modern shirts.

[Broark]

Hard telling what they're going for, but they also recently made a short sleeved long sleeved shirt. 
Can't find a picture right now but it was horrible.

[Iron Horse]

2 minutes ago, Broark said:

Hard telling what they're going for, but they also recently made a short sleeved long sleeved shirt. 
Can't find a picture right now but it was horrible.

Maybe it's to prevent your arm from getting sunburned while driving? 

Edited October 5, 2019 by Iron Horse

[Broark]

I really wish I could find a photo, I saw it recently and just questioned why even bother?
Essentially looked like a short sleeve shirt sewn over a long sleeve shirt.

[SuperJackle]

I hate to speculate in this direction, but fullcount has had such a series of shakeups in terms of their direction, it wouldn’t surprise me if they’re the next to go under. 

[Cold Summer]

All this just makes me really thankful I got my 1108s from before all the madness started happening.

[Broark]

3 minutes ago, SuperJackle said:

I hate to speculate in this direction, but fullcount has had such a series of shakeups in terms of their direction, it wouldn’t surprise me if they’re the next to go under. 

I've been thinking the same thing for awhile honestly.
Who knows, maybe they're doing well.

[Broark]

Found it. 

[Iron Horse]

^^

Also, the chest pockets are chorecoat-sized and too big, and there's a pocket watch pocket but no angled hole in the placket for the pocket watch chain to anchor to. I've been seeing that a lot lately. Not that the vast majority of people are using watch pockets for a pocket watch, but if you're going to do a repro style then go for the gold. Case in point:

[Geeman]

5 hours ago, SuperJackle said:

I hate to speculate in this direction, but fullcount has had such a series of shakeups in terms of their direction, it wouldn’t surprise me if they’re the next to go under. 

What makes you say this?

[SuperJackle]

8 hours ago, Geeman said:

What makes you say this?

To me, the first sign was when full count started to adopt all these bold print logo’s and slap them on everything. It’s hard to encapsulate exactly what I’m talking about here, but they really pushed hard into logos and branding a few years ago. Then they started to really experiment with avant-garde stylings. I’m not talking about just different fits, but like boa mufflers and weird shit(for the brand) like that. They remodeled their headquarters to look like some trendy American brewery, with succulents at every juncture.

A repro brand that has remained (largely) unchanged over the years suddenly experimenting so outside of their scope, the arrival of peak selvedge and #workwear and the collapse of the two, and then the brand changing its mainline fits and styling all kind of fits the narrative.

That’s my take, although they may be actually doing great. Unlike others, FC may come out unscathed because of their willingness to adapt. I’m seeing the same thing happen with some ex-rakuten shops like boropy and reggishop. They are increasing the number of crap they carry from nanamica (you know things are changing when fucking teva sandals are trendy!) etc, and slowly the selection they once had of warehouse, SC, buzz etc is dwindling. Hell, even self edge has been bringing in weird stuff from monitaly and human made which has me wondering. So maybe just a sign of the times. 

Edited October 5, 2019 by SuperJackle

[Geeman]

I definitely see where you coming from on changing brands at familiar stores, Reggieshop (they've always had EG Nanimica,  Sassafras etc but seem to be stocking a wider range),  BiG,  now self edge etc I think that's a by product of peak selvedge /workwear passing and with it Japanese brands and quality construction awareness has risen. Hence the proliferation of more modern Japanese/construction method orientated  brands in many stores. 

Regarding FC, I  hoping you wrong as  I like a lot of FC stuff after trying them out a couple of years ago. Your right and they are probably trying different directions as the repro brand desire starts to phase out and wish them luck as well as hoping they keep producing what they are good at. I think dropping he arcs/tab completely was a mistake. If they had the desire/demand for no arcs (which I doubt as there's plenty options out there already,  but hey we can blame Godspeed for that)  I think they should have kept the arcs as an available seperate line. 

Also, what's the thoughts/experience  on Human Made quality wise? They have a couple of nice ts.

 

,  

Edited October 5, 2019 by Geeman

[kicks79]

It's just the way the market is going. Denim sales are down, workwear and heritage are dying or dead. The trend is back to streetwear (so think logos), outdoors, hiking and tech-wear.  So expect to see more of that "rough and rugged" look.

FC might do okay as they are actually changing with the times, its just a matter of whether there core customers go with them or if they are able to pick up enough new ones.

[kiya]

29 minutes ago, kicks79 said:

It's just the way the market is going. Denim sales are down, workwear and heritage are dying or dead. The trend is back to streetwear (so think logos), outdoors, hiking and tech-wear.  So expect to see more of that "rough and rugged" look.

A little statistic from Self Edge.. in the 13 years which we've been doing what we do our denim sales have never been as high as they are in 2019.  We only had one year where it plateaued in 2013, otherwise denim sales have risen every year for 13 years for us.

Also, in response to the "change of direction by the retail stores" mentioned above... all those stores changed direction where as at Self Edge we've added directions.  Most of those stores shifted their focus away from Japanese denim brands and dropped many of the brands which they used to sell or heavily cut back their buys, we've only added brands and actually going forward are even launching denim relevant brands such as Warehouse very soon.

Edited October 6, 2019 by kiya

[JDelage]

It's completely possible for a store to grow in a stagnating / declining market. You just have to be better than the competition...

[Geeman]

There was no slight intended when mentioning SE, the fact that Rick Owen now has  line of MIJ denim supports my comment  that awareness of Japanese denim and the associated perception of quality is now widespread. 

[dau]

17 hours ago, Geeman said:

 

Also, what's the thoughts/experience  on Human Made quality wise? They have a couple of nice ts.

as I recall they are made by Warehouse so quality should be fine

[kiya]

3 hours ago, dau said:

as I recall they are made by Warehouse so quality should be fine

Yup, with the exception of a few nylon based outwear pieces all Human Made is produced by Warehouse, the quality is as good as anything from Warehouse.  It's all made in the same factory and production is handled by the head of production of Warehouse for the past 12 years.  

[Geeman]

Good to know, so the sizing is also in line with warehouse  ts?

[kiya]

34 minutes ago, Geeman said:

Good to know, so the sizing is also in line with warehouse  ts?

The fits on everything from the t-shirts to the jackets are completely different than Warehouse, most of the Human Made stuff fits western bodies a bit better than a lot of Warehouse items.

Edited October 6, 2019 by kiya

[Geeman]

Cheers maybe ordering a curry  up t shortly