Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

[kiya]

I'm really excited about what's coming from Boncoura, are you wearing the 66's or the XX's?

Pending measurements when they finally land in stores I'll be grabbing a pair of XX's. 

 

 

The 66 (the one without hidden rivets).

Edited September 6, 2016 by kiya

[beautiful_FrEaK]

For the German speaking people, a documentary about Japanese jeans (Japan Blue, Momotaro) and Kojima broadcasted yesterday in the German television.

 

 

http://www.galileo.tv/videos/wo-kommt-die-beste-jeans-der-welt-her/

 

 

For all others: some nice pictures

[Bobbo]

Bah, can't view it in Sweden.

[Niro]

For anyone in London or thereabouts, there's a Weaving Shibusa screening. I bought my ticket. Can buy them at:

 

http://www.superdenim.com/latest/weaving-shibusa-london-screening.html

 

Can't wait to see it, should be really interesting

 

 

Here's something many in this thread will be interested in.. there is a film coming out, one about Japanese denim and its makers.

World premiere is in San Francisco on August 6th at the Castro Theater: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castro_Theatre

The film is called Weaving Shibusa, trailer will be ready in a week or so.  

Here are the credits to get you hot and bothered:

 

Produced, directed, edited by Devin Leisher

 

Camera and production by Devin Leisher, Erik Motta, and Mehdi ahmadi

 

Executive Producers Scott rodgers, Scott fletcher, Kiya babzani

 

Produced by Kiya babzani, Kevin Steinberger, Yuri matsuoka, Gordon Hefner 

 

Soundtrack by Young Lee

 

Addition interpretation by Kevin Steinberger and Yuri matsuoka

 

Translation by Aki takahashi

 

Featuring

Mikiharu Tsujita (fullcount)

Hisao Manabe (Japan blue)

Atsusuke tagaya (stevenson)

Atsushi Matsushima (clutch, lightning)

Yutaka Fujihara (BerBerJin, fake alpha)

Kazuhiko hanzawa (Marvin's vintage)

Masayoshi Kobayashi (flat head)

Hajime inoue (TCB)

Shinichi Haraki (iron heart)

Etsuko Satou (shinya mills)

[Maynard Friedman]

I watched a programme on ITV yesterday featuring Griff Rhys Jones travelling the length of South Africa by train (the concluding episode to a journey across the continent in fact). Griff was sporting a very nice green and black block check Flat Head flannel shirt.

[pudaspriest]

[Sugar Mountain]

He's a customer of Rivet & Hide from what I recall... Good taste.

[itsbenhere]

You're back sug!

[Sugar Mountain]

I've been lurking and just enjoying my jeans on the quiet... 

[Maynard Friedman]

He lives in Fitzrovia apparently, so Rivet & Hide would be local to him, that would make sense.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

What’s your guys take on colored weft?

 

I have to admit I’m not a fan. I prefer the standard (bleached) white weft. I also like the natural cream color or light brown tone of unbleached cotton but heavily dyed weft yarns are not to my liking.

 

Indigo x indigo or indigo x black still seem to be very in vogue with brands and many of the more modern brands offer them (see Tanuki as an example which as a relative young brand also have an indigo x indigo denim already in their line-up).

[volvo240thebest]

same as you I don't like the look of a coloured weft, purple weft wins the crap award to me.

[edmond]

why dont they do a shit colored weft?

[unders]

Close enough Ed?

[Niro]

I like different colour wefts, they can add a deeper richer colour to jeans. For example the purple weft on the PBJ x014 makes for a nice purply indigo colour jean. The turn up just showing the weft would be too loud for me though.

 

 

why dont they do a shit colored weft?

 

Strike Gold 2109? 

Plus if you have eaten lot of liquorice, the colour is greencast 

[clt3]

Grey weft isn't too bad also

[setterman]

What’s your guys take on colored weft?

 

I have to admit I’m not a fan. I prefer the standard (bleached) white weft. I also like the natural cream color or light brown tone of unbleached cotton but heavily dyed weft yarns are not to my liking.

 

Indigo x indigo or indigo x black still seem to be very in vogue with brands and many of the more modern brands offer them (see Tanuki as an example which as a relative young brand also have an indigo x indigo denim already in their line-up).

 

 

My tastes mirror yours.  Though didn't Samurai do an Elements series a few years back, that had different colored weft? I remember liking one or two of those four models.  

 

Don't care much for most of the indigo x indigo jeans either, at least when cuffed.  Remind me too much of dress pants or khakis when you cuff them and there's the same color.  And other than PBJ's jeans, I've never cared for how the indigo x indigo jeans fade.      

[ColonelAngus]

What’s your guys take on colored weft?

 

I have to admit I’m not a fan. I prefer the standard (bleached) white weft. I also like the natural cream color or light brown tone of unbleached cotton but heavily dyed weft yarns are not to my liking.

 

Indigo x indigo or indigo x black still seem to be very in vogue with brands and many of the more modern brands offer them (see Tanuki as an example which as a relative young brand also have an indigo x indigo denim already in their line-up).

 

I think colored wefts are ok but it depends on the color. I like what i've seen from N&F and especially dig PBJ's cobalt weft denim, but yeah, the purple face denim is uglier than sh*t. Not for them but not against them either.

[itsbenhere]

I wouldn't buy a pair of jeans with a colored weft, even something simple like brown or grey. To me, that's just not what jeans are.

[Geeman]

My PBJ are grey weft, you wouldn't tell from looking at them. I prefer indigo / indigo or indigo/ black to normal black jeans

[ReverendGlasseye]

Don't care much for most of the indigo x indigo jeans either, at least when cuffed.  Remind me too much of dress pants or khakis when you cuff them and there's the same color.  And other than PBJ's jeans, I've never cared for how the indigo x indigo jeans fade.      

 

I'm in the same boat. However, I do like the electric blue contrasts in PBJ's and 3Sixteen's indigo x indigo offerings as an idea but I'd never wear them myself at least for now.

[ColonelAngus]

fwiw, I have the 3sixteen ST-140x brown weft 17oz denim and think they look pretty cool.

[Cold Summer]

I like the gray weft like PBJ and Strike Gold use, and also black (like on 3Sixteen Shadow Selvedge.) Not too crazy about other colors though.

[mikecch]

It's funny b_F, nowadays I'm much more open to weird and modern denims!

I think denim is whatever we want it to be... A strict sense of reproduction when it comes to military or workwear has lost its appeal to me.

I like brown and blue wefts.

Never tried grey, maybe someday.

[Maynard Friedman]

I like the idea of coloured wefts but don't really have any other than my solid black Ande Whall's and SDA-001 with a grey weft.

[ReverendGlasseye]

I think denim is whatever we want it to be... A strict sense of reproduction when it comes to military or workwear has lost its appeal to me.

 

I'm stuck in the middle of this existential argument. One one level, I drool at how some brands can fine tune every detail to a pair of jeans from a specific year in the last century. At the same time, I do like innovation and playing around with the template of a 5-pocket jean.

 

Case in point, my TFH 3009s. They're for all intents and purposes an extremely rough interpretation of pair of 1966 Levis. I know that the 1966 had a paper patch, no hidden back rivets, a generally higher rise, etc. than what TFH offers in their 3009. It's not 100% loyal to (what I believe is) the inspiration but close enough with some tweaks to make it new and different. One can also make the argument with my SC Okinawas. 

 

I have no idea where I'm going with this but mikeech's comment inspired me to comsider why I like some jeans and not others in consideration to repro vs. modern interpretation or whatever.

[Articulate]

Stevenson is the best at a vintage-y denim but fun/cool/not too distracting yet crazy details.

[itsbenhere]

Stevenson is a great example of a company that can change the standard aspects of jeans not just for the purpose of changing it (and usually coming up with something worse and gaudy) but actually improving on something that you didn't even think about, like the back pockets

[MileHighEvertonian]

One can also make the argument with my SC Okinawas. 

 

Sugarcane definitely hits all the right notes. While there's some older and odder stuff that I don't think is still in production or readily available, I think if you throw the latest selfedge collab into the mix (the modern fit plus lighter 50/50 fabric) alongside the 47s, the 2009s and the regular 50/50 blends, you've got all the funk & all the tradition, across a range of fits. No dyed weft, but plenty to keep most of us happy I'd say.  

[clt3]

I might be wrong, but although I like Stevenson, it seems like the waists on their jeans are generally too big and don't flare out in the top block like some other jeans, which would probably be a better fit for me. Otherwise, the details and denim are super cool.