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Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.


cmboland

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pentax m 50 mm f 1.4
pentax m 50 mm f 1.7
pentax m 28 mm f 2.8
pentax m 100 mm f 2.8
jupiter 9 85 mm f 2.0
I also have a new cheap manual focus lenses by Zonlai, 25 mm f 1.8 which is good too. mostly use one of the 50's though. I am planning to get rid of the 50mm F.14 (which unfortunately it's not in tip top condition as the external bezel is coming unglued on a side) and replace it with something else, possibly a Super Takumar 50 F 1.4 or a Mamiya Sekkor 55 mm F 1.4 or a Takumar 55 F 1.8.

Edited by volvo240thebest
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Am I the only one who doesn't think super thick belts are all that great? I used to wear these but they were never comfortable, and it also kinda started to bother me that I was wearing a belt that didn't match my shoes 80% of the time. Sure the natural veg tan leather can age really nicely (like on my FH belt) but I don't really subscribe to the idea that thicker is better. Same reason why I'm not really into heavyweight denim.

 

Now I wear 1.5" Equus belts, they're extremely well made and sturdy, my main black one has been worn constantly for almost four years and shows no sign of giving out.

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Am I the only one who doesn't think super thick belts are all that great? I used to wear these but they were never comfortable, and it also kinda started to bother me that I was wearing a belt that didn't match my shoes 80% of the time. Sure the natural veg tan leather can age really nicely (like on my FH belt) but I don't really subscribe to the idea that thicker is better. Same reason why I'm not really into heavyweight denim.

 

Now I wear 1.5" Equus belts, they're extremely well made and sturdy, my main black one has been worn constantly for almost four years and shows no sign of giving out.

could you elaborate? you dislike thick belts as in the actual thickness of the leather, or the width of the belt?

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Why do people start their comments with "Am I the only one..."? You can take heart that it is very unlikely that you are alone in your opinions in a global population of approximately 7 billion :)

Edited by Maynard Friedman
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I recently went back to a 15+ year old, pretty thin belt strip because my wide and thick Quercus (which is an awesome belt and actually really comfortable considering the thickness of the leather) started eating into the outer edges of the back yoke on my jeans. It probably wouldn't be a problem if it was a more normal 1 1/2 inch instead of 1 3/4 inch width.

 

I have another thick belt by Kicking Mule that is also pretty comfy, but it's black, so it doesn't get that much wear since I only have one black pair of boots :) The buckle construction and how the belt is sewn to it makes it the least bulky of my belts besides considerable leather thickness.

 

I agree that ridiculous leather weight "just because I can" is dumb for a belt, but I imagine that if it's well constructed and thought out (like the buckle on the KM belt) it doesn't have to be automatically uncomfortable.

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my current belt is an English bridle leather 1.5" from Orion Leather. it's pretty thick and should last forever. My previous belt was a 1.5" brown CXL lined belt from Rancourt. I lost weight and couldn't wear it anymore but it was my favorite. I guess when I start getting fat again I can take it out of retirement but for now it's going in the closet

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I also think overly thick leather on leather patches is nothing that the world needs.

Ok, at first you think that is kinda cool but now you see so many brands make a thicker and thicker patch...for what purpose? Because you can? I think thinner patches age in a more "natural" way which matches better with denim.

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Don't think I could ever spend big money on a belt , all it is is a strip of leather and a buckle . Think I payed £10 for my belt and it still keeps my jeans up just as well as it did when I bought it 10 or more years ago

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I agree b_F, I'm not a big fan of thick leather patches either and find that the natural veg tan ones actually don't age that well. I prefer a regular thickness deerhide or goatskin patch like you'd get on Samurai, Flat Head, etc. Although I quite like the patches on my 3Sixteen ST-120x (brown CXL) and ST-44x (natural veg tan that actually looks good.)

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Having tried both thin and thicker belts, there is definitely a break in process that has to be undergone with the thick belts. After that though, it ends up being as comfortable as thin ones are. I really don't think that the point of having thicker belts is to get as thick as possible because you can, but because it just feels more substantial when handling it. I also feel like it works better on wider buckles as well.

 

I've noticed that looping the belt under a thick patch helps make the bunching more uniform in the waist if it's too big on you. Personally I don't like the look of looping it, especially when I had a veg tan belt on a darker patch on the 3sixteens I used to wear. I really do like thinner leather patches more because it's closer to how jeans used to be made, which I can definitely get by.

 

On another note, I hate single sided buckles where your belt only has to pass through one part of the buckle. I really don't like the look, and usually these come with a loop of leather. Can't stand the look, but purely personal preference. 

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I am big fan of 1'50 width belts. it's just right. I have two belts, both made by Zissou, a chocolate brown with a brass garrison buckle and a natural vegtan with a double ring, which is a 1'25 width. I only use the natural one when I wear chinos (never haha!) or when I wear a pair that doesn't need a belt. 1'50 it's much more functional. plan on buying a new belt soon in natural or light shade of brown, 1'50 width with a rectangular garrison buckle. really tempted to buy a Ace buckle and have my leather man to install a nice medium thickness belt.

 

to me ultra thick belts are just as pointless as heavy weight jeans.

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Not much for me to say about belts. I've had a simple Corter Leather belt for 5 or so years. It does the job. 

 

My dumb observation of the day concerns t-shirts. I've been wearing my SC Okis quite regularly over the last couple weeks, and wouldn't you know it, all of my better quality t-shirts that have a more vintage cut to them, look great with a proper higher waisted repro cut. This is especially true of my 3sixteen indigo pocket tees, which are so horrendously boxy and short that I barely ever wear them.   

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Somewhat regarding the leather patch discussion.

 

But Gustin is coming out with a leather jacket.  We won't be discussing that exactly.  But I just asked them on reddit if they'd consider using horsehide.  Their response I feel is reasonable but I wanted to get a discussion.  They said they feel morally conflicted about using horse leather.

 

Personally I don't see the difference between using leather from horses, cows, goats, sheep or deer.  For the most part these animals were bred for slaughter or hunted responsibly.  They're not endangered nor is their harvesting of the leather throwing out the ecosystem.  It isn't like when beaver pelts were so sought after in North America that we nearly made the animal go extinct.  I would assume where ever they are sourcing the leather from would be producing the leather in a responsible manner.

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Not much for me to say about belts. I've had a simple Corter Leather belt for 5 or so years. It does the job. 

 

My dumb observation of the day concerns t-shirts. I've been wearing my SC Okis quite regularly over the last couple weeks, and wouldn't you know it, all of my better quality t-shirts that have a more vintage cut to them, look great with a proper higher waisted repro cut. This is especially true of my 3sixteen indigo pocket tees, which are so horrendously boxy and short that I barely ever wear them.   

 

Ever since I got my Okinawas, I've had to hem almost all of my casual t-shirts so the length is appropriate. How are you liking the indigo tees? I've been eyeing for short and boxy t-shirts replace some of mine.

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Regarding leather, I really don't see any difference in using cow or horse, as you said, as long as it's responsibly sourced... cows are just as smart and kind animals as horses can be. It's kind of hypocritical to think one animal "better" than others, as if killing one and using its hide is "less wrong" than for others.

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Somewhat regarding the leather patch discussion.

But Gustin is coming out with a leather jacket. We won't be discussing that exactly. But I just asked them on reddit if they'd consider using horsehide. Their response I feel is reasonable but I wanted to get a discussion. They said they feel morally conflicted about using horse leather.

Personally I don't see the difference between using leather from horses, cows, goats, sheep or deer. For the most part these animals were bred for slaughter or hunted responsibly. They're not endangered nor is their harvesting of the leather throwing out the ecosystem. It isn't like when beaver pelts were so sought after in North America that we nearly made the animal go extinct. I would assume where ever they are sourcing the leather from would be producing the leather in a responsible manner.

Regarding leather, I really don't see any difference in using cow or horse, as you said, as long as it's responsibly sourced... cows are just as smart and kind animals as horses can be. It's kind of hypocritical to think one animal "better" than others, as if killing one and using its hide is "less wrong" than for others.

.

Most of my belts are from Charlie [Equus]. He was asked the same exact thing__ his response was, that "horses has been around his family&business for generations ... " ... w/c, IMO, is quite a valid reason

For me, it's like, I wouldn't eat what I pet__ dunno if that makes sense ;)

Edited by BrownMetallic
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.

Most of my belts are from Charlie [Equus]. He was asked the same exact thing__ his response was, that "horses has been around his family&business for generations ... " ... w/c, IMO, is quite a valid reason

For me, it's like, I wouldn't eat what I pet__ dunno if that makes sense ;)

 

Much like dogs, horses are a man's best friend (though cows are quite smart). There's a reason most people don't eat either of these animals. 

 

That said, when the old war horses get put out to pasture, it makes sense to not let them go to waste.

 

If you want to get put off leather for good though, just watch some modern cow/horse slaughtering videos.

Edited by Iron Horse
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Personally, i love my naked and famous thick belt. Its aged wonderfully and is totally broken in after 2 years...It works well with all my jeans now. My issues with the belt come about when I'm a bit out of shape...like now...i never wear it. Back when i was actively competing in some bodybuilding comps the belt was the bomb! now its a bit too thick for my gut

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to me ultra thick belts are just as pointless as heavy weight jeans.

 

i'm curious, why do you consider heavyweight jeans pointless? I've got no preference either way. the heaviest denim I own are two pairs of Gustin 17oz and a pair of 3sixteen st-140x 17oz. None of them have been worn yet. I definitely wouldn't wear them during the summer months but I plan on breaking them out next Fall. I have jeans that are 11oz, 12oz, 14oz, 16oz and 17oz, so I feel that depending on the time of year the weight does make a difference.

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while we're on the subject of belts, can any of you point me to a company that sells belt buckles? I'm looking to replace the buckle on my Orion bridle leather belt because I don't like it much. I'm looking for a nickel plated double prong buckle, but am open to other finishes.

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am i the only one who doesn't wear a belt? after 1-2 months the jeans usually start drooping down too much, which is my cue to wash them and this keeps me on a regular washing schedule

 

No, not the only one. But I pretty much never wear shirts tucked in, which is why I don't wear a belt. My t-shirts are all quite fitted, as are my flannels and any other button-down shirts I wear, and I'm a pretty thin guy. The bulge of a belt around my waist feels weird and seems like it might interfere with the lines of untucked shirts. It's not just jeans - when I used to wear wool slacks to work each day, I had them made without belt loops.

 

Still, if I'm going semi-dressy for meetings or a nicer dinner with a jacket and jeans, then I will tuck in my shirt and wear a belt. The waistband of jeans definitely looks off if it's visible and doesn't have a belt around it.

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i'm curious, why do you consider heavyweight jeans pointless? I've got no preference either way. the heaviest denim I own are two pairs of Gustin 17oz and a pair of 3sixteen st-140x 17oz. None of them have been worn yet. I definitely wouldn't wear them during the summer months but I plan on breaking them out next Fall. I have jeans that are 11oz, 12oz, 14oz, 16oz and 17oz, so I feel that depending on the time of year the weight does make a difference.

 

I don't see any practical need to wear heavy denim. in the whole XX century people never felt the need for heavy denim, anything between 12.5 and 14 oz it's always been plenty enough for an all year around pair of jeans.

even in freezing temperatures a normal pair of jeans with a pair of long johns underneath seems to me more practical than heavy denim.

 

the heaviest pair I had was 15 oz with a pretty dense weave and was already too much for me even in winter, my legs just can't stand heavy denim. I am also not very keen on the idea of a "summer jean" or a "winter jean", I like to buy stuff that I can wear anytime in the year.

 

Heavy denim do fade differently but I happen to not like generally that look either.

 

So that's why I think heavy oz jeans are (to me) pointless.

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while we're on the subject of belts, can any of you point me to a company that sells belt buckles? I'm looking to replace the buckle on my Orion bridle leather belt because I don't like it much. I'm looking for a nickel plated double prong buckle, but am open to other finishes.

 

here's two choices

 

https://www.etsy.com/shop/ACEWESTERNBELTS

 

https://www.etsy.com/shop/SmokySumisStore

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