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24 minutes ago, Broark said:

Some great pictures of a faded Ranchman shirt on the TCB blog: http://happyjeans.jp/tcb/2017/01/06/14387

Makes me realize I need to get one in my correct size. Still have my unworn size 44, need to put it up for sale.

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The fading looks awesome. Are you needing a bigger size than 44?  My 46 fits perfectly as the 44 didn't fit.

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15 minutes ago, Broark said:

Yup, I have a 44 that never fit and need a 46 or maybe even a 48.

Yeah not too many shirts are shoulder length 53-55cm.  Spoke to denimio this morning and they have only 4 shirts that come close to the measurements of a size 46 and 48 in the ranchman with the chambray and denim being 2 of them.  I just use my ranchman and Momotoro MS033 size 46 as a size reference for any shirts going forward.

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^ Thanks. BTW that's just water on the back of the legs. Light inside was crap for pictures and patio outside was a bit wet in places.

I like how new fades just keep coming. Somehow, I though that once the major creases were set, that would be that, but the lighter streaks radiating up the thigh from above the knee, have only starter to come through in the last few months...

Edited by holio cornolio
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I pulled the trigger on the TCB 50s Denim Jacket today, I'm really looking forward to it. Unlike my FH denim shirt, which I want to have a high-contrast fade, I'll probably wash the jacket once every month of wear or so in order to get a nice vintage vibe to it. Is the denim the same as on TCB's 50s jeans?

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2 hours ago, nycsurfer530 said:

image.jpegFirst time uploading a photo from my phone... Apologies if it doesn't work well. 

Anyway. Washed my 50s and Volvo's post inspired me to share some puckering. 

 

Machine washed and dryer?

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After my little mishap with my pair of TCB 505 (came out a lot smaller than expected) I still couldn’t get TCB out of my head. But sizing up on the 505 wasn’t what I wanted to try and I also prefer unsanforized fabrics. After talking to our resident TCB expert Volvo the idea evolved: if TCB doesn’t offer exactly what I want, why not simply ask Hajime to cater my needs?

 

 

Nothing easier than that I thought and with the support of Volvo I contacted Hajime to create me a pair of TCB 60s CT (custom tapered). The goal was to take a size 36 in the 60s cut and hem the jeans to my needed length presoak (as I want that excellent TCB roping on my hems!) but also taper the leg to a more slimmish silhouette. I just specified my desired length of 88 cm (34.6”) with a leg opening of 21 cm (8.3”) for presoak/non-wash/raw measurements. I didn’t instruct on the knees and just assumed the master will do it right.

 

 

My pair finally arrived after some reminders yesterday. I unwrapped the package and grabbed my measuring tape immediately. To my surprise and also to disappointment the specified measurements didn’t match my request. The leg opening measures 22 cm (8.7”) and the inseam is at 93 cm (36.6”)…
As I don’t want to imply Hajime did it simply wrong I assume he took my specified measurements as the measurements after wash, when all is said and done. Although I said multiple times I want those measurements before the wash (as I thought this would be also easier to achieve). A lost in translation thing. Another thing could be that Volvo and I chased him too much so he didn’t pay full attention also in regards to his increased output in models.

 

 

So what do we learn from this?

  • ·        Maybe you shouldn’t fuck with the design of the master and just trust him on his take of the jeans.
  • ·        If you want a custom item from Hajime be prepared as it could come out differently (I’m not the first person to experience this)

 

 

I’m yet not totally decided what to do. The leg opening is no problem as I have other jeans with similar or bigger leg opening I really dig (namely my SDA ’66), the inseam is just a tad too long but nothing a cuff couldn’t fix. I’m mainly bummed the pair didn’t turn out like I planned it.

Another thing I really was surprised of and I wasn’t aware off: the back rise is damn low! Just 14.75” for a size 36. Makes you check and pull up your pair quite often.

 

 

 

 

I’ll report back later what I’ll do and also with pictures if I kept them and washed them.

Edited by beautiful_FrEaK
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^Sorry to hear that Til, based on the measurements it indeed sounds like Inoue-san thought you wanted those measurements post wash, and not pre-. Regardless, sounds like they could shrink down to a nice slim fit regardless. Were you trying to go for a slimmer Resolute look, if you don't mind me asking?

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I’m with you Andrew, that would explain the measurements.

 

You are right, the Resolute 710 acted as a model for this TCB 60 CT but I didn’t want them as extremely tapered and slim. The TCB should have given me more room in the top block for movement but remain a slim silhouette. That said, I have to admit I wasn’t aware of the low back rise. Seems I have overseen this parameter :D

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On a different note- today I traveled up from NYC to Monson Massachusetts to visit a brewery called Tree House. Every Wednesday they release two different cans so some my brothers and I drove up. Treehouse is really known for their different IPAs. We also stopped by a beer distributed and I bought a sour ale with pineapple. I also have some pics of my 50s in natural light.

 

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1 hour ago, nycsurfer530 said:

Hmmm this has me thinking... 50s cut is perfect for me. How would the 60s fabric look in the 50s cut?

 

Interesting... the 60's cut is "almost" perfect to me (everything except the back rise which should be a smidgen higher to achieve perfection).

My hands are full at the moment and possibly for the next 24 months BUT I have in my mind a custom project to be done with TCB and possibly- if will gather interest - organised as a preorder/bulk order. 60's cut with 50's denim and details. Maybe a slightly tweaked 60's cut (ie slightly higher back rise and maybe a slightly trimmer hem width to make it more appealing to a wider crowd). I think that the 50's denim + the slim-ish cut of the 60's jeans could make for some totally crazy, off the charts fades. I keep thinking about it, and I think I could convince the Master to make it, but again my hands will be full for a good while with the 20's contest, my current rotation and the pair of "wrong" custom 60's I'll buy from BF for close to nothing (HA HA HA!!!). But sooner or later I will work on that.

Re: fabrics. I prefer the 50's fabric as it has more color and texture variation and it looks great either hardly worn or worn really hard. The 60's fabric doesn't look as good when fresh and new but then becomes absolutely mighty when it takes off. First 6 months may be a bit boring but then it pays off (just look at Holio's pair!). My second pair of 60's is taking off right now, and it's becoming hard to put them down and wear other pairs.

on another note your 50's look great, another 6 months of monogamous love and they'll be dad style grail! I don't have a dryer at home but I am toying with the idea of buying one for the fades haha!

Edited by volvo240thebest
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