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VISVIM FW15

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Thats last FW's natural painted one. assume with mud. Looks great but not for what they want for it. The mud on it makes the thing jump up in price by like 200%. 

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Went to the trunk show today. First off, I would say this season is much stronger than the current ss15 one. Lots of substantial jackets, great fabrics and somewhat better fits in my opinion. Materials are very strong overall, quality is fantastic. Most colorways seem to be browns and khakis this time around, rather than the indigo we've been seeing a lot of lately. Prices are insane as you would expect, especially the leather, natural dye and handmade pieces. The trunkshow pieces didn't have price tags attached, so you either had to ask or just order blindly and hope for the best. I asked for some of the stuff I was interested in, but not all.

 

So some pieces--

 

- The sheepskin lined coat requested earlier

Tried it on. Price was around 50 or 60 thousand yen from what I recall ($5000 or so). The fabric comes from some very specific Japanese company and is then assembled in Italy. It's lined partially in sheepskin and partially in corduroy. The arms can be detatched for some reason. Somehow lightweight and warm. Fit was pretty blah. Reminded me of a longer verison of the lieutenant peacoat. Not worth the price in my opnion.

 

- Coat in first pic (last page)

Very nice wool fabric, windstopper and fully lined. Great material, hated the cut. It looks like either something a rich cowboy would wear or the monopoly guy. Either way not that good. Retail was easily $1000+

 

- Lieutenant coat (3rd pic last page)

I guess this is the lieutenant "prime". It's a lighter weight wool than last winter's version, fully lined in a solid material. Colors are different, as these are tweed. Nothing too special in my opinion. Silhouette is the same as before, meaning nothing that great.

 

- Liner jacket

Really liked this one actually. The outer is a vintage looking cotton, with the inner being a fake fur. Not sure if there's any down or anything like that for insulation (meaning I'm not sure how practical this is in cold weather), but it looked really cool. Visvim is going back to their modular system, where this can be reserved and buttoned into some of their goretex shells this season. Retail was about 90,000 yen. I didn't order it, but I think I'm going to get it.

 

- Bomber jacket (MA-1)

There were several versions of this: one with an American flag on the back and made in Japan, one solid color (natural dye I think) and made in Italy, then several jackets that were sort of derivations of the bomber, like the Sanjuro MA-1. The bombers themselves looked great. I wasn't into the American flag one and tryed on the solid one. Fit was pretty authentic: these jackets have pretty big arms and a short length. If you're cool with that, I'm sure you could do worse than this. Didn't ask the price as I wasn't into the fit myself. Sanjuro MA-1 was really cool but not my style. I think that one is going to be one of the key pieces this time.

 

- Mohair sweater

I guess these are natural dyes, blah blah blah. Liked the fit and the design, but price was 90,000 yen or something. Too expensive for what it was.

 

- Commodore coat

The duffle coat. This season's version has a pretty heavily wool, but comes unlined (no windstopper). The fit is a bit better than previous versions in my opinion. Probably works well as a shell. Didn't ask the price.

 

- Yak wool sweater

Ended up ordering this. Quite warm given the material. I'm not sure where the fabric comes from but I guess it's then handknit in France. Price was 80,000 yen which seems cheap for that kind of thing from Visvim.

 

In general, they had a lot of the other standard stuff like corduroy pants, pullover sweaters, kilgore jackets, etc. Wasn't into the printing and patches ("I like old cars"), but pretty solid overall. Surprisingly small selection of shoes, although they're bringing back a lot of the older models like the Sierra, Logan and of course the FBT. Nice leather bags, but they're around $3000 depending on the model. They gave out coasters this time, their coffee and had some kind of juice stand or something.

 

Not a bad experience overall. I'm definitely looking forward to this season much more than this summer's. If you've got the money, there is some good stuff to be had here.

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Absolutely brilliant info boss.

I'm going for the full monacle and morning coat look (coat in first pic/windstopper) - was it TTS do you know? I've heard that and liner need to be sized up?

 

Lastly did you see / try on the patton - cream or burgundy versions?

 

Cap doffed for reportage!

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getting a morning coat as well, indulging my inner H.E. Pennypacker. word is it runs a bit snug, sizing up myself.

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101 IT from previous seasons are TTS, not sure now

 

Thanks ... I take 5 in 101 and 103 , though a little loose, looks good when layered. Found size 4 too tight on chest and shoulders and slightly short in sleeves.

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sorry just posted in s15 but its getting a bit lonely over there.......

virgil crepes re-release - apparently not in jp though but outside

anybody know any stockists apart from hb?

 

^^IGNORE reset my account to europe on visvim's site. d'oh.

Edited by winstonrodney...

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Ha. Didn't try on the morning coat so I can't comment on the sizing. Sizing was all over the place this time though. I'm usually a 2 in most things. This time I was a 1 in the MA-1s, a 4 in some of the knit sweaters, a 3 in some outerwear and a 2 in others. They actually told me it was one of the problems they're trying to deal with-- they've got multiple factories going right now with different materials, so it's almost beyond their control.

 

Saw the pattons but didn't inspect them closely. They're out of my price range. Looked basically the same as last winter's version to me. I expect price is about the same too. Maybe some differences in dyes or colors. I'm not sure.

 

Didn't try on the 101s. Looked similar to past versions too. Not sure about the sizing there either.

 

Liner fits true to size I think.

 

It does make it hard if you're buying from the internet. If you can try this stuff on, especially since you're paying thousands of dollars in some cases, you're really better off.

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Great review, thanks for the info. How did the Sanjuro bomber fit? Did it run big like the MA-1, or like a typical Sanjuro? Thanks in advance.

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Would also like to know that.. Size down on that kimono down or tts?

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I didn't try on the sanjuro bomber so I can't say. Sorry. I would say the bomber I tried on was true to size, but there seems to be a huge amount of variation even on individual pieces.

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hmm, sizing has me worried without trying on, but I like the material

 

used to have a Rickson and the quality was incredible, but I didn't care for the sheen

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^^If you wash at an easy 30, natural dry for day then when still damp you tumble dry -  it loses the sheen.

Alakazam!

 

On the FW15 sizing issue, just had an extremely helpful bit of correspondence with FIL on another matter but asked about the Ascot and the Iris and this is what they said.......

 

Ascot should go true to size unless you are particularly broad across the chest or shoulders. Material quite dense and a little bit stiff apparently

Iris should also go true to size or even sized down to wear as a liner to another jacket.  Hiroki in the press pics is wearing a 2 so if you only want to wear a T underneath size down.

 

I for one am now going TTS on both......fuck knows what that means! I'll either be happy or in the classifieds in a couple of months.

 

Good luck chums!

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I know the iris is the liner, what's the ascot? Any sizing advice on the yak sweater?

Edited by Fycus

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hiroki's like 5'10

 

thanks winston - going in blind on a tailored piece like the ascot is always a cause for concern but your report puts my mind at ease. i'd venture that the ascot sizes the same as an academia. 

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you still going a size up then sir? you're quite broad i think?

 

hearing he's 5"10 throws me though as  it sounds like he's in a 3 (and thus sized down on the iris); i'm the same size in height though definitely fatter and i'm a 2 usually.......more confusion!

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yes, having non-Asiatic shoulders I went with a 4. i wouldn't quite call that sizing up as I equally wear 3's and 4's.

 

hiroki might be the same height but he possesses much less girth (i.e. fragile) than we do. he hovers between 2 and 3 so it sounds like an iris in 2 should be adequate. 

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dont mind me, asked a question politely and got this instead for "killing the flow" whatever that even means.

Edited by TeenageIcon

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Does anyone know if the Luxsic denim ages/wears in differently opposed to their normal denim? Or do these just cost wayyy more because of the luxsic cotton/hand sewn patch?

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it should age differently, the color shade is quite different in person

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it should age differently, the color shade is quite different in person

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Anyone get a chance to try on the Travail Coverall in wale cord at the shows?

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