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ENDYMA, London - Archival designer fashion - SPONSORED THREAD


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RAF SIMONS streetwear

available at ENDYMA

 

 

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A/W 2001 Riot Riot Riot, Oversized Bomber Jacket with Detachable Sleeves

 

 

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S/S 1999 Kinetic Youth, Soft Jersey T-shirt with Kinetic Youth Badge Print

 

 

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S/S 2004 May the Circle Be Unbroken, Vintage Overdyed Jersey T-shirt with Enlightenment Print

 

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HELMUT LANG bags and accessories

available at ENDYMA

 

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A/W 1999, Cargo Vest Pack/Backpack with Crossover Back Straps

 

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S/S 1999Asymmetrical Waist Pack with Leg Strap

 

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S/S 1999, Modular Cargo Bag with Waist Belt

 

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S/S 2004, Crushed Metallic Leather Zipped Evening Case

 

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S/S 2004, Men's Handcuff Bracelet

 

 

 

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Burberry Prorsum 2008 Silk Gabardine Trench Coat with Leather details

 

This Burberry Prorsum trench coat is an example of Christopher Bailey's heritage-inspired sartorialism at its most opulent. Crafted from Burberry's traditional waterproof gabardine fabric in pure black silk, this luxurious one-off showpiece features a sharp slim cut and directional vintage lambskin trims. In our view, it acts as a beautiful reminder that -to quote Tim Blanks- 'there was once a time when Christopher Bailey was shaping an idiosyncratic little personal fashion statement out of a 155-year-old heritage brand'. Explore our Burberry Prorsum collection here.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
New arrivals at ENDYMA:

RAF SIMONS & HELMUT LANG.

 


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S/S 2003 'Consumed' Compact Stretch Jersey T-shirt with Asphalt Print


 


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S/S 2005 'History of the World' Basketball Tank Top with Texas Pieces Print


 


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S/S 2003 Techno Mesh Sweater with Geometrical Ribcage Detail


 


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A/W 2003 Cotton Drill Biker Jacket with Removable Collar Insert


(Reissue of a 1999 design)


Edited by endyma
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Introducing HELMUT LANG footwear at ENDYMA

 

In line with the nuanced and sensual aesthetic of Lang's tailoring, Helmut Lang footwear features timelessly modern silhouettes that combine groundbreaking materials with a clear focus on traditional craftsmanship. Materials include neoprene, metal and vegetable tanned leathers, complemented by hand-finished details and the designer's signature clean lines.

 

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A/W 2003 Calf Leather Fitted Mid Platform Boots with Metal Heel

 

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A/W 2004 Bonded Techno Mesh Laced Ankle Boots

 

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A/W 2001 Neoprene-Bonded Kid Leather Ankle Boots with Harness

 

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RAF SIMONS A/W 2005 'History of My World' Broad-shouldered Military Jacket with Architectural Pleats

 

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Military outerwear has been a consistent point of reference for Simons's designs: On one hand, his early work often engages with and subverts depictions of discipline, masculinity and order - concepts closely tied to martial culture. On the other, he also appears to be interested in the ways the strict principles of formal uniforms are distorted when worn by young people, such as the teenagers that were casted as runway models during the early years of his career. Collier Schorr's 'Base Portraits/Barracks' photos from the 'Raf Simons Redux' publication precisely capture this idea: a young man stoically wears an 'Eisenhower' jacket from WWII. Instead of creating an image of pristine masculinity as originally intended, the jacket's square proportions engulf his narrow frame, highlighting the appropriative act occurring when a slender-framed teen wears a garment from a bygone era that was created for someone possibly older and bigger. It is this nuanced and profound appreciation of the experience of youth that characterises many of Simons's creations.

 

Designed around the same time as the Collier Schorr photos, the jacket features a wide-shouldered cut that tapers considerably towards the waist for an innovative top-heavy silhouette reminiscent of vintage military uniforms. The design is inspired by mid-century military tunics and features a strong shirt-style collar, large patch pockets and a belt on the waist. Thoughtful details such as the symmetrically placed snap buttons on the collar and a zipped compartment on the top of the front placket create a thoroughly modern feel. At the back, beautifully executed pleats add further volume to the structured silhouette while subtly echoing the design's regimental origins. The result is a serious statement piece that combines traditional form with avant-garde experimentation.

 

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HELMUT LANG A/W 1997 Reverse Raw Polypropylene Denim Jeans

 

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When asked about turning down an offer to work as the head designer of Balenciaga, Lang famously stated: 'It’s about America. It’s not about couture.' Lang's enduring fascination with American sartorialism was closely linked to its most iconic identifier, blue jeans. In retrospect, fashion critics have widely acknowledged that Lang's sophisticated take on classic jeans designs was catalytic in the transformation of denim garments to highly conceptual fashion items with groundbreakingly high retail prices.

 

For A/W 1997 -the first winter collection of his year-old Helmut Lang Jeans label- Lang opted for subtle designs with unexpected touches that quietly revealled his cerebral avant-garde aesthetic. This rare pair of jeans is made a reversed raw denim fabric consisting of 33% polyproplene, a one-of-a-kind material that was developed exclusively for Lang and only available for one season. The unwashed fabric has an extremely structured drape (similar to 18oz rigid denim) and its lighter-coloured weft (reverse side) has a faint metallic luster. Over time, the substantial body of the fabric will soften and beautiful dark blue fades will emerge. Read more

 

Shop HELMUT LANG

 

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