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My Studio D'Artisan D4385

 

Only had it a few months and it's being rotated with my SEXIH07IIIBK2

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Who makes a nice jacket with handwarmer pockets?

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Looks like IH does several too.

 

I just pulled the trigger on a 516XX Sauce Zhan jacket. We'll see how it goes. They're raw, so the fit is hard to gauge from here. I will know more in a few weeks.

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Aside from Conners, what would you consider a strong type 1? I'm in the market to replace my 'one size too small after washing' Full Count 2107, but want to see what else others like with strong repro vibes aside from just sizing up? CSF just a touch out of range price wise for me. WWII more ideal, but can't locate anything 

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i love my warehouse type 1. Banner denim is responding nicely to the frequent washer dryer treatment. I'm also really curious about the Hellers cafe type 1 possibly in the duck fabric.

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Fullcount's type 1 is really nice--I ran across a guy wearing one in Vancouver last week and thought it looked excellent. If I'm not mistaken, Orslow makes a type 1 as well which I'm sure would wear really nicely in their proprietary fabric.

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^nyc, glad you mention that as I plan to blast mine in the wash/dryer which I was unable to with my FC's due to fear of shrinkage. I know the banner denim has lots of potential to shrink (and consequently, stretch); How did you find the sizing? I wore a 38 in the FC 2107 and tried on a WH size 40 2001XX which was of course super loose. Did you find that yours shrank a ton?

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The Warehouse jackets do shrink quite a bit. I have three of their jackets, all in their banner denim, and they shrink about one full size. I tried on a one-wash size 40 in their Tokyo store and found it to be bigger than what I liked, so I went with a size 38 and it fit perfectly. I'm also a size 40 in Fullcount's non-slim cut denim jackets; I don't own any but I did try some on in the Harajuku store.

 

I think the shrink estimates Warehouse gives on their website are pretty accurate, though they probably will shrink more with frequent drying.

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^nyc, glad you mention that as I plan to blast mine in the wash/dryer which I was unable to with my FC's due to fear of shrinkage. I know the banner denim has lots of potential to shrink (and consequently, stretch); How did you find the sizing? I wore a 38 in the FC 2107 and tried on a WH size 40 2001XX which was of course super loose. Did you find that yours shrank a ton?

 

I was shocked by the amount of shrinkage the jacket had. I never took raw vs washed measurements but the jacket shrunk probably a couple inches in most of the dimensions. Shrinking continued after a couple washes. For reference my chest measures 40.5 inches and waist 31 inches and my 40 fits great. I'm able to wash freely and layer without being sloppy. 

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atomic, what's your wash routine on the size 38? I'm more in between a 38 and 40 but find 38's too restricting in the shoulders after washing. I'm thinking I'll go with a size 40 and cuff the arm cuffs to clean up any bagginess. Still learning towards Full Count though, something about their flagship denim for the type one seems perfect, but likely because I wore it for over a year and am used to it/have unfinished business with it

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ww2 jacket that got away from me was one from samurai when they put out their water fire earth etc element series. i actually ordered it but the proxy went awol on me. hollows has the non-element version and it looks excellent. if samurai ever produces it again, or if you could find a nos one, go for it i reckon.

Edited by oomslokop

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I would suggest an evisu jacket

Wh would be perfect or hellers

Samurais are awesome too

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atomic, what's your wash routine on the size 38? I'm more in between a 38 and 40 but find 38's too restricting in the shoulders after washing. I'm thinking I'll go with a size 40 and cuff the arm cuffs to clean up any bagginess. Still learning towards Full Count though, something about their flagship denim for the type one seems perfect, but likely because I wore it for over a year and am used to it/have unfinished business with it

I wash and hang dry, so I suspect there might be some final bit of shrinkage that I haven't managed to squeeze out of them yet. It's hard to say for sure without me actually putting them in the dryer, but I'm already happy with the way they fit, and I don't mind waiting for them to dry. I like the sleeves to just hit the wrist and the body to end around the bottom of my belt; the size 40 would have been better for layering but I prefer not to cuff my sleeves.

 

Fullcounts are nice as well but you can't really go wrong with either of these brands. However, the reason I've bought so many Warehouse jackets is because I was blown away by the accuracy of the details when comparing one of their repro jackets to the original article in their store. They had a vintage 213 jacket hanging there for reference and they kindly allowed me to compare it to the repro piece they made. Needless to say, aside from the banner denim, all the details were virtually identical, stitch count and color, even the asymmetric and slighty skewed pocket shape. It might be silly but I was so impressed that it convinced me to buy the 213 jacket rather than the WWII jacket I originally had my eye on.

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Whats a 213 jacket?

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@ed, this might be the one: http://www.ware-house.co.jp/?pid=96377954

Historically, the No.2 line was a "cheaper" alternative to the premium "XX" line, but very cool detail wise IMO

 

@atomic, much appreciated! I don't blame you for getting the 213 as I almost dropped cash on it when it was first released as well but my FC still fit at the time so I ended up passing. Will have to decide between the FCs and WH...

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i love my warehouse type 1. Banner denim is responding nicely to the frequent washer dryer treatment. I'm also really curious about the Hellers cafe type 1 possibly in the duck fabric.

 

I have decided that my next denim jacket will be a Warehouse one. They look good and everyone seems to love their banner denim.

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Warehouse or Freewheelers are my recommendations.

Recently there was a new FW one at yahooauctions. I think it was 40 or 42.

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Loving my Orizzonti-era Denime type 1. Not that hard to come by to be honest, surprisingly not that pricey either.

From what I heard back when I was researching it Hayashi-san used the XX-denim on it as well. Fantastic stuff.

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I wear my flat head type 2 a lot (at this moment too) and it's really cool to see fading on a denim jacket, it requires a lot more dedication than jeans.

It'll be a crazy day when I have a super faded type 2 with some new dark jeans!

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Damn, it looks nice. Bit smaller pocket than mine has.

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haha, aho, you having "unfinished business" with fc's flagship denim gives me the strong impression that you sold your soul to the devil somewhere down the line in your denim career...

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I'm really enjoying my Flat Head denim shirt (finally showing some good evo at 4 months effective wear!) but I want to get a "real" denim jacket. I'd like to get something unsanforized if possible. Open to American/Japanese/whatever brands. The big problem is that I'm very tall, I don't have a long torso and kinda like the look of a shorter jacket, but sleeve length is the tricky part for me.

 

I'm not a big fan of the Type III style but like Type II, Lee style, and more western shirt-influenced designs like Flat Head and Nudie offer.

 

Ben, what are the measurements on your jacket (size 40, I assume?) I think a Flat Head 40 or 42 might work for me, though the shoulders would be a little wide.

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You're right, it's a 40! I'll get some measurements for you later. It's pretty darn short though. 

I tell you what though, if you want I'd be happy to ship it to you so you can check out the fit. 

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I picked up a couple of Type II denim jackets recently (size 42, raw) and thought I'd share post soak measurements for those interested:

Studio D'Artisan D4385

Chest  21.75"

Shoulder  18.75"

Sleeve  25.75"

Length  26.75"

Sugar Cane 1953 Type II (Modified Length)

Chest  22.75"

Shoulder  19.75"

Sleeve  24.25"

Length  (NA but can get later -- a couple inches longer than the Studio)

Both are very nice.  The Sugar Cane is very soft and comfortable and has more room overall, as the measurements would suggest.  The Studio is slightly darker in color and harder finished with longer sleeves -- probably a more classic fitting Type II.  The Studio is 15 oz. while the Sugar Cane is a touch lighter weight, but similar.

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Shoot me the measurements Ben, I'd be interested in checking it out if they look good.

From doing some research today, the TCB Type II jacket looks nice. A size 38 would fit me pretty good in all dimensions, based on the measurements. It seems a lot of people are critical of the fit on this jacket, but since I'm tall and skinny, it would probably look like a classic Type II on me and not look long in the hem or sleeves. The very reasonable price is also appealing.

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