UES Denim

[Broark]

I’m waiting for more color ways to get released before deciding on one, the ones released on the web store so far don’t do too much for me. I think they have a few more planned (like the one you got). 

[JDelage]

They don't do the acorn shaped pockets anymore?

I have one I love, but unfortunately it gapes a bit (too much) when I sit, etc. I'm going to sell it.

[julian-wolf]

@Broark, All the colors for this season should be up as of a week or two ago—this is the one I just received: https://www.japaneseselvagejeans.com/goods_en_usd_1321.html

Seems like they release all the flannels for a given year at once, first for preorder then up on the web shop once they're finished; there shouldn't be any waiting for specific color combos

@JDelage, the construction is different for the heavy flannels (smaller acorn-shaped pockets, double-stitched side seams, folded hem w/ selvedge gussets) and extra heavy flannels (larger rectangular pockets, triple-stitched side seams, taped hem)—the heavy flannels should still have the same construction as ever

[Broark]

 Thanks @julian-wolf, looks like I missed a few of those colorways!

[mpukas]

@julian-wolf what size do you wear? I'm typically 1 size smaller than @Broark. I think I'd be a 4, but the chest looks tight for my frame. TFH flannels in XL/44 fit me like they were tailored for me, except maybe the arms are a bit tight. Their flannels look rather awesome. Their weaves remind me a TFH's a bit. 

[Josh'N'Roll]

Great looking shirt, @julian-wolf! How much do the UES flannels shrink?

[julian-wolf]

@mpukas, I wear a 4 in Ues and a 44 in TFH (most TFH shirts have necks that are far too big for me, though, with the exception of some of the westerns); I have a fairly broad chest and shoulders as compared to the rest of my body (6'2", ~180 lbs.)

@Josh'N'Roll, I've never seen any appreciable shrinkage from mine (washed medium, hung to dry)

I've just gotten a bit carried away and put in an order for one of their "unevenness satin workshirts" in olive…

[Geeman]

Only a little, less than half a size 

[julian-wolf]

@mpukas, if I haven't done so by this weekend remind me and I'll take some photos of Ues flannels lying on top of TFH and vice versa for reference

[mpukas]

@julian-wolf Cheers, that'd be great. How do you compare the UES to TFH flannels? 

[julian-wolf]

I'd take Ues over TFH any day for flannels:

The weaves that TFH uses are a little more interesting—both TFH and Ues use 3x2 twills, but I think the TFH twill might be a little looser, and they play more with yarn widths—but beyond that, I think Ues wins on most points:

• Besides the standard buffalo check, I don't really like TFH's flannel patterns that much for everyday wear
• The Ues flannel fabric seems to last longer; my TFH flannels don't take long to get holes in the elbows
• Older TFH seemed well-constructed, but the TFH flannel I have from a couple of seasons ago was pretty sloppy, and I've never seen anything to this effect from Ues
• The Ues heavy fabric is a bit warmer than the standard TFH fabric, and the Ues extra heavy fabric seems like it'll be much warmer than TFH (it's also double-brushed like the TFH flannel, while the standard Ues heavy fabric is only single-brushed)
• Both fit me very well through the body and arms, but Ues fits me appropriately in the neck while TFH flannel neck openings are much too big

Don't get me wrong—I like TFH flannels a lot, and still keep an eye for my size showing up on Yahoo—I just like Ues a lot more

[Ar_thor]

@julian-wolf How do you size these compared to other shirts? I've found that going for my usual measurements on IH UHF shirts results in a very trim fit that is more or less too tight due to the thickness of the fabric. The chest does however look huge on the sz 5 for these so I'm not that the same would work out.

[ColonelAngus]

Really like the look of their flannel with acorn pockets. May have to try them.

any of you have experience with their denim? I’ve been wanting to try a pair but don’t know how accurate their sizing is. 

[mondo]

2 hours ago, ColonelAngus said:

Really like the look of their flannel with acorn pockets. May have to try them.

any of you have experience with their denim? I’ve been wanting to try a pair but don’t know how accurate their sizing is. 

I have flannels in 4 and 5 (not much to choose between them, really, but 4 is more fitted, as you'd expect), a type III jacket in size 4 – they were really going for a trim silhouette with this, and nailed it in my opinion... I had been chasing one from UES for a while, then the one Aussie bloke who seems to buy their stuff and then sell it on for whatever reason put one up on eBay. Actually, I think both my flannels came from him as well.

In the jeans department, I have the 400T in a 33. I'm generally 33-34 depending on brand, and would say that the top block feels much like it could be from Full Count 1101s in 33, Flat Head 3005s in 34, or (somewhat weirdly) Tender 129s in size 4 but the 400T is tighter at the knees and more strongly tapered to a smaller hem. If I squat in them, I'll feel a stronger pull and probably end up revealing more butt crack than most other pairs. Like Tender, generous pocket bags produce distinctive fades. Bit of a brownish/ecru weft; I like it a lot. 15oz denim feels soft and dense with use, and I've yet to see any breaks in honeycombs or whiskers. I'm hoping the jacket wears in half as nicely as the jeans – early signs suggest it will.

[Broark]

There was also a UES denim contest a few years back to give you an idea of how the denim fades.
I've always been deterred from their jeans as the rise looks pretty low.

[Geeman]

A UES size 3 is a perfect western sized M. I find them to be one of the best fitting JP brand shirts I own. I have flannels and a denim shirt from them. 

Their denim (400st) is the fastest fading denim I've ever worn. The leg twist on them is insane and even the one wash have a really long inseam if you need one. 

[JDelage]

Yeah, they still have 6-button plackets vs. IH's 7, that's why they gape (on me). Too bad because they're awesome.

As a side note, that indigo extra heavy flannel will certainly have a lovely evo: https://www.japaneseselvagejeans.com/goods_en_usd_1208.html

I have one of those, although it might be heavy rather than extra heavy.

[persco_]

7 hours ago, Geeman said:

A UES size 3 is a perfect western sized M. I find them to be one of the best fitting JP brand shirts I own. I have flannels and a denim shirt from them. 

Their denim (400st) is the fastest fading denim I've ever worn. The leg twist on them is insane and even the one wash have a really long inseam if you need one. 

Good to know about the shirt sizing. I just ordered a wabash shirt from them in size 3 ....

[ColonelAngus]

13 hours ago, mondo said:

I have flannels in 4 and 5 (not much to choose between them, really, but 4 is more fitted, as you'd expect), a type III jacket in size 4 – they were really going for a trim silhouette with this, and nailed it in my opinion... I had been chasing one from UES for a while, then the one Aussie bloke who seems to buy their stuff and then sell it on for whatever reason put one up on eBay. Actually, I think both my flannels came from him as well.

In the jeans department, I have the 400T in a 33. I'm generally 33-34 depending on brand, and would say that the top block feels much like it could be from Full Count 1101s in 33, Flat Head 3005s in 34, or (somewhat weirdly) Tender 129s in size 4 but the 400T is tighter at the knees and more strongly tapered to a smaller hem. If I squat in them, I'll feel a stronger pull and probably end up revealing more butt crack than most other pairs. Like Tender, generous pocket bags produce distinctive fades. Bit of a brownish/ecru weft; I like it a lot. 15oz denim feels soft and dense with use, and I've yet to see any breaks in honeycombs or whiskers. I'm hoping the jacket wears in half as nicely as the jeans – early signs suggest it will.

Mind sharing your height/weight? I’m thinking you and I might be similar in size. I would likely try a size 4 for the heavy flannel. Not sure about the jeans yet as I don’t really need any

[mondo]

Ha, no worries.. I just don't keep abreast of the weight situation, but last time I checked I was 6'2" and about.. 95kg..?  210lbs or so. Shit, that sounds like a lot

[julian-wolf]

fit photos for posterity, now including Various Poses

Extra heavy flannel size 4 vs. 6'2" @ ~180 lbs.

[persco_]

^^ That shirt is the bomb.

[mondo]

Looking very good..! UES do an excellent job of matching patterns on their shirts; not so fussy that pockets are mirrored, for example, but so that all the elements are balanced. When I've worn them to work, everyone seems to respond to the fact that they're pretty much the Platonic ideal of a flannel shirt even if they're not given to commenting on clothing or how it's worn

[julian-wolf]

TFH HN-52W, size 44, ca. 2015 vs. Ues Heavy Flannel, size 4, 2019, both worn and washed heavily

 

The TFH is wider in the sleeves, slightly broader in the shoulders, appreciably longer in the body, and much wider at the neck.

The Ues is wider through the body.

The arm length, accounting for differences in shoulder width, is very similar between the two.

Both use really top-notch fabrics and are immaculately constructed.

[Duke Mantee]

Nice comparison 

I’ve found TFH shirts to have the weirdest (worst?) patterning of any shirt I’ve owned which is a shame since they offer nice fabrics. That UES shirt however is a classic.

[Ar_thor]

That shirt is great, great fit as well. Looking at that I'd say I'm a size 4 even though I'm a bit taller.

What annoys me a little (being spoiled I suppose) is that the UES international shop won't declare a lower value on the package (which is fair enough as they're an official outlet) but none of the Japanese shops carry these shirts in larger sizes than 3 and none of the EU outlets carry the nice colours. 

[Broark]

4 hours ago, Duke Mantee said:

I’ve found TFH shirts to have the weirdest (worst?) patterning of any shirt I’ve owned which is a shame since they offer nice fabrics.

Their fabrics are so nice, but if you carry any weight around your midsection you're out of luck.
I don't even have a massive gut and all FH shirts are too slim through the midsection, even sized up to 48. Then I end up with super big shoulders/chest and a waist that's too tight...
I've heard the regular cut ones are a little more forgiving, but I've never had a chance to try them.

[julian-wolf]

unevenness satin workshirt

(really more of a chino than a satin)

 

[ColonelAngus]

@julian-wolf

How warm would you say your heavy flannel is (the one w/acorn pockets)? 

[Broark]

Torn between these two colors...