Shoes that look better with age...

[denimjunky]

^I like!

[denimjunky]

Daily beaters. Getting more and more love. Rough winter putting them to the test...

[Crat]

OK, I know almost nothing about American work boots so maybe someone here can help me.

I have a pair of boots with stitching in the middle of the sole, as shown in the picture below.

Why is this done? In my case it makes the boots impossibruuu to wear with even the slightest rain.

When the street is wet, my feet get wet. Maybe I'm just unlucky with my pair (bad craftsmanship)?

[denimjunky]

^What brand, model?

My SDS above left my feet dry as the desert.

[exaptavist]

.

Edited October 8, 2015 by hoggreaser

[jake431]

How long ago was this? I wrote them about another pair I had problems with after a week of wearing (heel pad came loose and tounge was sew in completely crooked) and even sent pictures. They wrote me back and said that I had to go through the shop I purchased them from.

This was in 2009 or 2010. I think I wrote Epaulet (who I bought them from), they connected me with Alden, and it was free. So perhaps it was the store I dealt with. In any event, they fixed them, and I've never had a problem since, with either pair of Aldens I have. Your mileage may vary.

[CrashTestBrummie]

Interesting.

I still wonder about the way rubber half soles are stitched through on to the mid sole on American boots. It must make for a more costly job to have them replaced than when say a stick on 'topy' wears thin and is replaced on a leather soled boot. I mean the stichings got to be cut and the whole sole re-done right?

Can understand the benefit though and looks better to my mind. We just don't seem to do that in England. That being said strictly speaking I don't think it's goodyear construction on US boots as such but a stitchdown technique instead which appears different. Doesn't create a 360 degree welt for instance. I might be talking out of my arse though, happy to be corrected.

Remember reading come to think of it, I think Megatron sent some Whites off for re-soling to a UK cobbler, I can't find the result or resolution more specifically, but I think there were hiccups along the way.

I've seen it recently on a pair of Church's, and I'm sure I've seen it on a pair of Crocketts. Both times was a combination leather/sunken studded Dainite sole.

[denimjunky]

Interesting.

I still wonder about the way rubber half soles are stitched through on to the mid sole on American boots. It must make for a more costly job to have them replaced than when say a stick on 'topy' wears thin and is replaced on a leather soled boot. I mean the stichings got to be cut and the whole sole re-done right?

What makes you think the stitches wont go through the outsole when made out of leather?

Isnt that the whole idea to make them stick better than with just glue? Maybe you were referring to an only glued construction.

[Crat]

^What brand, model?

My SDS above left my feet dry as the desert.

Timberland boot company.

Knew f*ck all about american boots when I stumbled across these a few years ago and bought them. Still hardy know a thing about american boots, only that I wouldn't buy these again. :')

[denimjunky]

I see youve got winter over in the UK too!

Dunno that model but I never saw timberland amongst the top notch quality american bootmakers, thats for sure.

That might be to compare China made docs with Trickers for instance.

[Crat]

Yeah, I know that now.

Thought that products from the 'Timberland Boot Company' line, their top line, might be decent.

Oh well; learning money. I believe production has moved back to the US though since these were made. These were made in Italy with Horween leather.

I'm in the Netherlands btw and its all rain atm

Edited December 17, 2012 by Crat

[garden gnomes in space]

Unless there is some high end range of Timberland Boots that I am not aware of, they are essentially mall boots. I dont think anyone here takes them seriously as a boot maker and hasnt for the past 20 years or so. They are fashion boots, and their price and construction quality reflect this

Edited December 17, 2012 by garden gnomes in space

[Megatron1505]

I dunno about that, I had some of their Abington range hiking boots. Made in the USA, Vibram Christy sole, Horween leather, they were pretty cool for $75. I got a couple of years good everyday wear out of them.

[Crat]

Like I said, I wouldn't buy them again but at the time they appeared to be nice and worth a try.

As Megatron also mentions the Horween leather caught my eye.

I wouldn't call Timberland Boot Company 'high end' but they are obivously a step above the regular 'Timberland' brand.

Besides not being able to wear them when its wet mine which is a major flaw imo iI'm pretty content with mine. One flaw, but a big one.

To get back to my original question; is my feet getting wet a due defect rather than the construction method?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=7tZaPrepcz4

Edited December 17, 2012 by Crat

[CrashTestBrummie]

The leather in that vid reminds me of the oak wax hide used on C&J's Snowdon boot, which is a Horween leather...

[garden gnomes in space]

I dunno about that, I had some of their Abington range hiking boots. Made in the USA, Vibram Christy sole, Horween leather, they were pretty cool for $75. I got a couple of years good everyday wear out of them.

you also spent $75, not $200 or so for some of their garbage that Nordstroms sells.

also, I am not familiar with "Timberland Boot Co" but that seems to fit the description of when I said "unless they have a high end range of boots". Im talking their normal, buy at the mall line, and that is crap

Edited December 17, 2012 by garden gnomes in space

[garden gnomes in space]

oh, and not to stir up any more shit, and I cannot prove this, but I am convinced that Horween has different grades of chromexcel. The CXL on my whites is much much better than the cxl I have seen on Wolverine 1000's. The cxl on the wolverine's I have handled seemed thin and cheap, with a nasty waxy finish. I have seen a few different pairs of wolverine 1000's at different stores, and each one felt weird.

[Planetarium]

Being that Chromexcel is a process rather than a cut, this is true. I found that Wolverine, Alden, and Oak Street Bootmakers use thinner cuts of Chromexcel, resulting in an unsavory amount of stretch. My little Quoddy bluchers have a thicker cut and are fantastic as were the Lone Wolf engineers I handled. I haven't seen any White's made of Chromexcel in person, but I've heard they use a nice thick cut and I certainly cannot imagine White's skimping on durability.

As for stirring up shit, when I brought up the flimsiness of certain Chromexcel cuts in the Styleforum Alden thread I was quickly berated and told that Chromexcel was the most indestructible leather any of the members had ever handled, readily standing up to any abuse that they could dish out. Considering the average lifestyle and frequency of wear I observe over there, I suppose I'd be forced to agree

[Crat]

Haha, lol.

I don't know (anything) about cmx but I do know Horween has various grades of cordovon. It would seem only logical that cmx (or any type of leather) comes in various grades being a natural product.

[garden gnomes in space]

Being that Chromexcel is a process rather than a cut, this is true. I found that Wolverine, Alden, and Oak Street Bootmakers use thinner cuts of Chromexcel, resulting in an unsavory amount of stretch. My little Quoddy bluchers have a thicker cut and are fantastic as were the Lone Wolf engineers I handled. I haven't seen any White's made of Chromexcel in person, but I've heard they use a nice thick cut and I certainly cannot imagine White's skimping on durability.

As for stirring up shit, when I brought up the flimsiness of certain Chromexcel cuts in the Styleforum Alden thread I was quickly berated and told that Chromexcel was the most indestructible leather any of the members had ever handled, readily standing up to any abuse that they could dish out. Considering the average lifestyle and frequency of wear I observe over there, I suppose I'd be forced to agree

well, it being a process is not the point. the point is, they seem to have different levels of quality. The Wolverine quality seems to be bottom of the barrel so to speak. Anyone who thinks CXL is the best leather doesnt know leather. Its a fine leather for most applications, but I would never use it for a dedicated work boot, and its def. not the most durable. There's a reason why it so buttery soft and comfy right out of the box. Not to say its bad, as I have 2 different pairs of shoes with it.

haha, sorry about the rant. didnt mean to derail. hopefully the thread police overlook this small indiscretion

Edited December 18, 2012 by garden gnomes in space

[BrownMetallic]

@CTB + Hoggreaser__ finally got the wheels in motion for the WL Tug Of War build. tnx for your guidance.

it's going to be on the "semi-sprung" last [ie, as on the Dundas & YMC collabs] instead of the original 88 fully sprung last of the Shepherd boots. the sole will be on Dainite. will mosdef post when available.

[fre-co]

Look forward to seeing those BM. I got the William Lennon for Margaret Howell MHL for mrs fre-co as an early Christmas gift. She loves them.

[devilish]

Fresco, do you have a link to those boots? I google search revealed nothing. My gf and I have been searching for a pair of boots for her for quite awhile now and I'd like to see those. Thanks.

[Steve7]

Unless there is some high end range of Timberland Boots that I am not aware of, they are essentially mall boots. I dont think anyone here takes them seriously as a boot maker and hasnt for the past 20 years or so. They are fashion boots, and their price and construction quality reflect this

I had a pair of the black, classic Timberland boots as a student. Indestructable, lasted years being worn every day, always waterproof, and damn comfy.

I bought some identical ones in dark brown, and they were all the above as well as warm and reliable. Even the laces lasted!

Sure - you bin them when the sole goes...

But that apart they performed better than my Trickers boots which have never been as comfy or warm.

The difference is the Tricker's last a resole, have more exotic leather, and have some "craftsmanship" to them. Dismissing Timberland is just missing the point, as they weren't always a fashion item (yet they did become this). I'd still take their classic boot, and their waxed leather boat shoes are still the best of their kind as a wear until they fall to bits shoe.

Edited December 18, 2012 by Steve7

[garden gnomes in space]

ok, I dont want to talk about Timberland boots anymore. I was referring to what is currently for sale at the mall. Im not talking about their heritage models or what they used to be. Im talking about what they are now, and that in my opinion is crap. Crap, as in they are boots that will service you fine until you have to toss them and get a new pair. I know they were a decent brand at one point, but so was North Face and Patagonia and other brands that did what everyone else had to do in order to turn a profit and keep costs low. Its all made in China sweat shop junk as far as Im concerned. I try not to support throw away brands these days, as it goes against what I believe in. (get off my lawn!!!)

[denimjunky]

^LOL. Now lets all share our love for Panama Jack boots.

[fre-co]

Fresco, do you have a link to those boots? I google search revealed nothing. My gf and I have been searching for a pair of boots for her for quite awhile now and I'd like to see those. Thanks.

No link, bought in mhl in Shoreditch. I'll get some photos for you.

[Double 0 Soul]

ok, I dont want to talk about Timberland boots anymore. I was referring to what is currently for sale at the mall. Im not talking about their heritage models or what they used to be. Im talking about what they are now, and that in my opinion is crap. Crap, as in they are boots that will service you fine until you have to toss them and get a new pair. I know they were a decent brand at one point, but so was North Face and Patagonia and other brands that did what everyone else had to do in order to turn a profit and keep costs low. Its all made in China sweat shop junk as far as Im concerned. I try not to support throw away brands these days, as it goes against what I believe in. (get off my lawn!!!)

Here Here! Edited October 4, 2013 by Double 0 Soul

[Crat]

Hahaha, I like this discussion and get both sides of it. Here in the Netherlands the classic timberland is a style icon, like it or not.

I try not to get into dogma's of disliking a product based on who made it where. As long as its well made and I like the looks the brand and country of manufacture shouldn't really matter. (I'm not always successful at following this principle though)

In other news, I just mailed White's to find out where and how I can get their Outdoorsman Boot (thanks for the recommendation btw!). It's a bit tricky because I have no idea of the sizing and nothing similar to go by. Also, I can't find any dealers nearby and if possible, i don't want to order online from the states due to import taxes.

Edited December 19, 2012 by Crat

[SwedeAlex]

@denimjunky: What size to get in White's SD? I wear size US10.5 in Alden Indy boots and Wolverine 1000 mile boots.

Help appreciated!