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Shoes that look better with age...

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I've posted these Rios of Mercedes vids before. This is part 3. At about 2:50, he talks about the heel. He likes to see a little day light at the front of the heel, never at the back. That way when you step there's a little spring.  If there's day light at the back, he says that pressure will feel like you're standing on a pipe. I concur. 

For anyone who has an interest in how boots and shoes are made, I highly encourage you to watch this series, even if you're not into cowboy boots. It's very informative, and many techniques that they use can be applied to any other footwear. Some techniques are unique to cowboy boots, like the lemon wood nails in the sole. If I were to get a pair of cowboy boots, it would be Rios of Mercedes, prolly even over Lucchese. 

 

 

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Thank you, that’s really helpful, and I’m grateful for your input as it seems you know a good deal about ergonomics and shoe construction. Have you had the heels of any of your shoes reconstructed in the way you mentioned? What does it look and feel like in comparison?

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I bought another Wesco Boss, this time in Black Chromexcel.  @shredwin_206White’s boots just ain’t for me anymore.

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@mlwdp I’d give wesco or even Nicks a chance but luckily no dealers around. 
I’m a whites guy for life I think. Haha  
2 pairs of smokejumper, the 4q69 boot, and the new perry moc toe    
always looking at other boots but my wife would kill me if she found me with another pair 

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15 hours ago, chicote said:

Thank you, that’s really helpful, and I’m grateful for your input as it seems you know a good deal about ergonomics and shoe construction. Have you had the heels of any of your shoes reconstructed in the way you mentioned? What does it look and feel like in comparison?

I have not had a pair of boots/shoe heels rebuilt specifically for this reason. I've only had 1 or maybe 2 pair with a non-sloped heel. I had a p[air of White's SJ rebuilt a few years ago, and they botched one of the heels. It was sloped inwards quite badly. I sent them back, and White's rebuilt the heel just on the one boot. 

I'm a bit of an anomaly 'round here... my boot/shoe game is pretty weak. Primarily because I've become accustomed to wearing dead-flat foot wear w/ no heel, foot friendly with a wide forefoot, no arch support or cushioning. The boots/shoes that fit that criteria are not attractive. I do have a couple pair that can maybe be SuFu acceptable, lol. 

Saying all that, I did cop some pairs of Grant Stone boots and shoes in their Black Friday sale. They'll suite me well for the rest of my days. Their one of the few makers of conventional footwear that offer a wide fit, EEE for some model, a sloped heel, and no arch support built into the last. And their price point in unrivaled for the quality. I need to post pics... I'm very pleased with them. But again, prolly frowned on my most here. 

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Had to dive deep in the closet after selling my boots. Found mybold pair of Whites sd, relsoled/relased by Brian the bootmaker. Maybe done 5yrs ago.

its like getting something new

 

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On 12/22/2020 at 11:35 AM, shredwin_206 said:

@mlwdp I’d give wesco or even Nicks a chance but luckily no dealers around. 
I’m a whites guy for life I think. Haha  
2 pairs of smokejumper, the 4q69 boot, and the new perry moc toe    
always looking at other boots but my wife would kill me if she found me with another pair 

White’s was my first foray into custom footwear.  I remember perusing with envy over the various semi dress and smoke jumpers on life time gear’s blog and Rakuten.

I have now bought 4 Wesco’s and they have worked well for me.  Between the quality and customer service, Wesco works for me and my unusual feet.  I’m glad that I finally bought smoke jumpers but based on lifestyle and age they don’t work for me anymore.  I might buy a semi dress down the road but it won’t be before another Wesco.

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for those who wants some black bison wesco's , wickett and craig tooling black and natural and  harness glazed leathers we can do it for you! 

choose your leather and choose your custom wesco . hit us up!

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Wore my old custom Russell Moccasins yesterday for the first time this year. These are about 7 years old, with a pic from new:

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Those look good. Mine are burgundy cxl single bird shooter with a bison leather moulded sole on the Munson last. The padded collar was actually their mistake because I never asked for it but oh well. 

Edited by fre-co

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My all time favorite boots...Alden 4060 (HC variation). The 4060 was the design that got me into footwear in the mid-aughts after trying to find a dress boot that replicated the rugged yet dressy vibes of the 1920's-40's that could equally be worn wearing coveralls or a suit. In particular, I find that Alden's Grant last leans in heavy into this aesthetic, and I'm able to wear a dress boot like this all day (or an Indy for example), over heavier boots which now jolt my knees unfortunately. My White's and Wesco's are sadly collecting dust!

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Just given my Red Wing 9874s a clean. Klondike leather showing some wear, mainly on the tongue.

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Old Brooks Brothers unlined penny loafers made by Alden and sadly no longer offered at BB

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Edited by wmb

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White's Hikers after 5 or 6 days of heavy wear

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& After a brushing & a quick conditioning

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Super comfy & so far seemingly well-suited to the job

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I dig that sole. Which model vibram is it? 

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I don't know what the model number is, and I don't see it on the Vibram catalog. You could ask White's or Baker's—it's whatever comes standard on the Hiker

It tracks real well (even on ice) and it's comfortable, but I don't think I'd recommend it for use on pavement: it's relatively soft, and would probably wear down quickly

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Fracap M120 after maybe a dozen day hikes

I like these a lot, and they're a lot lighter than the White's (but also provide a lot less support)

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whites want $200 USD to ship a pair of boots to australia. i'm giving danner my money instead.

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Wow. That seems crazy. Maybe get someone to proxy for you and ship to you?  
ive had a few pairs of Danner but I’m a whites guy hands down these days. 

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Posted (edited)
On 12/22/2020 at 2:00 PM, mpukas said:

I have not had a pair of boots/shoe heels rebuilt specifically for this reason. I've only had 1 or maybe 2 pair with a non-sloped heel. I had a p[air of White's SJ rebuilt a few years ago, and they botched one of the heels. It was sloped inwards quite badly. I sent them back, and White's rebuilt the heel just on the one boot. 

I'm a bit of an anomaly 'round here... my boot/shoe game is pretty weak. Primarily because I've become accustomed to wearing dead-flat foot wear w/ no heel, foot friendly with a wide forefoot, no arch support or cushioning. The boots/shoes that fit that criteria are not attractive. I do have a couple pair that can maybe be SuFu acceptable, lol. 

Saying all that, I did cop some pairs of Grant Stone boots and shoes in their Black Friday sale. They'll suite me well for the rest of my days. Their one of the few makers of conventional footwear that offer a wide fit, EEE for some model, a sloped heel, and no arch support built into the last. And their price point in unrivaled for the quality. I need to post pics... I'm very pleased with them. But again, prolly frowned on my most here. 

I was reading your post and was reminded by @fre-co’s Russell Mocs below; Russell used to offer a custom minimalist boot. It’s had a zero drop vibram rubber sole, and I think they also offered leather camp sole. I believe they also did wide widths. I never ponied up, but something to think about if you’re ever in the market. 
 

Edit: they still make them apparently

https://www.russellmoccasin.com/minimalist-footwear-custom-made/

Edited by SuperJackle

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I recently picked up these OSB trench oxfords in “black walnut” roughout. 
I love the elston last and these are pretty great so far. 
Grain is pretty mismatched between the two, but wabi sabi I guess :rolleyes:

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2 hours ago, SuperJackle said:

I was reading your post and was reminded by @fre-co’s Russell Mocs below; Russell used to offer a custom minimalist boot. It’s had a zero drop vibram rubber sole, and I think they also offered leather camp sole. I believe they also did wide widths. I never ponied up, but something to think about if you’re ever in the market. 
 

Edit: they still make them apparently

https://www.russellmoccasin.com/minimalist-footwear-custom-made/

I did get 2 pairs of custom sized RM - Hiker and Imperial. I never posted any pics or talked much about them. Nice boots. Very, very nice people to work with, especially Sue. Long story short I went back and forth with them countless times on sizing, and they stayed with me until we got the sizing and what I wanted right. I'm just not as thrilled with them as I had hoped. The Hikers are good beaters, very comfortable, durable. The Imperials aren't sized quite as good as the Hikers. I haven't worn either in a couple years, and I should. Overall build / construction is very wabi-sabi. Their domestic market is geared towards the hunting and outdoormans crowd. Not like the JP market. 

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O78hJey.jpgI had my whites re soled. No more wedge soles ever again 

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^^ I think those look much better now! I never liked wedge soles. Feels like pairing a boot with a running shoe...

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On 1/2/2021 at 2:38 AM, shredwin_206 said:

I dig that sole. Which model vibram is it? 

Portland

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Continuing with the Russel Moccasin love, I dig these Oneida's that Warehouse is selling.
Don't see anything exactly like them on the RM website, but I could probably forward a picture to them and see if they'll make me a pair.
Torn between something like this or a pair of Sporting Clays chukkas.
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