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kiya

Shoes that look better with age...

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I bought a pair of Redwings (875) about 9 years ago. Overall, I’ve been pleased with them and the wedge sole was hardwearing, although slippery in wet weather once worn down a bit. I had them resoled at the Vibram shop in London about 2 years ago (cheaper and faster turnaround than official Redwing process and just down the road from my workplace at the time). This was very disappointing, the Vibram sole is lighter, became worn very quickly with far less wear and is akin to wearing skates if the pavement is wet. I took them back to Vibram for a minor repair, when the sole became punctured by a shard of glass and discovered they are not solid rubber but have air pockets - hence the lighter weight. They did tell me that Vibram now offers a more heavy duty replacement wedge sole that may be more suitable. When I get them resoled (again), probably for the last time, I may give that option a try, otherwise I’ll do it via Redwing.

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the Lofgren/Vibram dissolving under strenuous use reminds me a little of the discussion in the engineer boot thread of denimbro on the applicability of cxl leather in his engineers... also reminds me some of post overall chores: they keep the chore coat design but in fabrics that would fall apart if put to anything more than desk warriors usage, seems like a similar(-ish) issue here? [agreeing that the counter issue not great at all] I imagine the donkey puncher would hold up much better, but I still hold a flame for the jobmaster instead... 

...if I was going to do an Ed impression, I would be slamming Lofgren and then of course comparing to Wesco (but not sure if they are in the moc-toe game yet?) or Russell Moccassin  - and then combine that with Volvo's recommend for Vibram 2021, but supply a 2060 example for distractions sake...

http://www.cosmicjumper.com/russell_BS_026.html

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I am eyeing up their own make-up of the bird shooter, the standard 360 sole looks very pliable for stalking in the bush, but may well get ground down with concrete city walking... 

https://www.russellmoccasin.com/the-anniversary-south-40-bird-shooter/

& on sole talk, I know I blah on the rw pecos, but their nitrate cork sole, which I thought would barely hold out, is holding up nicely... [whilst these do remind me of the crimes of ugg yet have a certain appeal...]

Edited by bartlebyyphonics

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I'm starting to get intrested in RM the more I see them. Warehouse posted a great looking pair recently 

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@Geeman - sure I've said it before, the suede version of the sporting clay chukka I have are like clarks wallabees on steroids... always fancied wallabees but the sole never quite seemed wide enough / sturdy enough... they are built like tanks, but light to wear (not finessed stitching or leather cutting tho if that bothers you)

away from boots... this version of the rm fishing oxford featured on the cosmic jumper site has a certain brothel creeper vibes meets workwear utility je ne sais quoi...

image.thumb.png.f2eec28ec81d0c495e1e7b3b0c20f98c.png

Edited by bartlebyyphonics

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^ I chanced upon that cosmic site a while back and keep returning. All write ups, yours firmly included, point to solid reliable boots and they look really good too. I was thinking down the High Grade US Standard duck jacket route with them too, hunter cosplay <_<

Yep they don't make them Redwing moc soles like wot they used to. The new ones have flyaway soles by comparison to an old dense-soled pair I've got. Profits thru multiple buy business strategy over quality and robustness tut tut...

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I had really bad luck with a Red Wing factory resole on a pair of moc toes a couple of years ago and won’t be using them for any resoling work in the future, but I will say that their Dual Density Traction Tread lasted a good chunk longer than the standard RW wedge soles or the Vibrams that Lofgren uses

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So what do you all think is the strongest, sturdiest outsole, especially the heel part? Or what are some common options for a pair with a metal thingy, like the one on RDT boots on the toe? I quite like my RDT’s for that little detail though it’s a bit slippery.

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Strikes me that the majority of soles we see on the popular boot brands here are Vibram - so I guess we should just refer to them for guidance on durability, grip etc.

https://eu.vibram.com/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-VibramEU-Library/default/dw8760b92c/pdfs/RepairCatalogue_EN.pdf

@julian-wolf I’m a fan of Lofgren engineers and I have the M-43 which I really like (although in clear second to the engineer) but those Mocs have made sure I’ll not likely invest anything further.

@Cocoa_Lapin Those ‘Blakey’s’ that RDT use are just a throwback to a distant era. The daft thing is, they have cut away the more durable sole at the toe to add a bit of leather and a steel plate ... which doesn’t last as long as the main sole unit 

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@Duke Mantee That’s good info, thanks! Haven’t worn my RDT’s much yet, we’ll see how the sole holds up. I have no experience with cat’s paw heel either, I’ll be interesting to see how long it takes for me destroy it; Dainite disintegrates pretty fast the way I wear it.

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Yeah, I've always really liked the idea of toe taps on leather soles, particularly for dress shoes, but adding leather to the part of the sole that takes the biggest beating just to add a tap over it seems pretty fishy

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12 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

Yeah, I've always really liked the idea of toe taps on leather soles, particularly for dress shoes, but adding leather to the part of the sole that takes the biggest beating just to add a tap over it seems pretty fishy

With my RDTs I was surprised to find that the metal toe taps wore out faster than the sole. And they were very slippery.  As Posted here before, I had them re-soled early on with wedge soles, which have held up very well (better than the RDT uppers!).

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 I have always liked the fact that this WW2 GI Joe is wearing my Chippewa boots. 

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2 hours ago, tod said:

 I have always liked the fact that this WW2 GI Joe is wearing my Chippewa boots. 

You must have amazingly small feet

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2 hours ago, tod said:

With my RDTs I was surprised to find that the metal toe taps wore out faster than the sole. And they were very slippery.  As Posted here before, I had them re-soled early on with wedge soles, which have held up very well (better than the RDT uppers!).

The toe taps will always wear quicker - they’re merely an added layer of protection that’s supposed to be replaced. It’s more daft (IMO) to take the time to cut away a piece of the nitrile sole, which is very durable, and replace that part with a piece of leather, which is less durable, then screw on a toe tap.

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Best sole in my opinion is the vibram 100 full lug sole. 
I’ll be adding a low heel and lug sole to my whites boots when I re sole. The wedge sole was nice but just didn’t last for me. Done foe after only 4 months 

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Took a look at my Redwings and noticed the resole is a Vibram Moreflex - I assume that’s one of their lighter weight wedges (and possibly cheaper too). I’ll ensure I specify that’s NOT want I want if I go for another Vibram resole.

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Sharing my Paraboot Chambord sizing experiences here.
Perhaps it helps someone.
I've been interested in Paraboot shoes for many years. Thomas I Punkt in Hamburg here has been offering the Michael for more than 20 years and I always admired them, when I saw them.
And recently I quite enjoyed like many others the fit of Hayashi-san with his jeans and often the Chambord.

So, after researching a bit, it seemed that they fit a bit larger.
I wear EUR 44 mostly (UK 10/US11), so I got the UK 9.5.
Initially they fit pretty well, they even seemed a bit slippery in the heel area.
Then I read, that many found, that they fit the same as the RW Mocs. So I got a bit worried, that they might stretch and become too big.T
To be sure, I also got them in UK 9.
But those were far too small.

So I kept them 9.5.
But when I wore them a bit longer inside I realized, that while my left foot is quite fine, the right foot didn't have enough space mostly in width.
The toes felt cramped.
I had read, that they will stretch over time. After all this was already 0.5 size bigger than the general recommendation.
But the leather seems very sturdy.
I put them on two more times in my flat for an hour or so, walking around. But they didn't feel good. It was always a relief to take them off.

So, now I got them in UK 10, true to size.
These are a bit loose in the back, but now the right foot feels much more comfortable, even though still a bit restricted in the width.

It's kind of mysterious with finding the right shoe or boots size, in that sometimes one just cannot transfer others experiences.
For me, true to size is the right size.
And now I have a basically new UK 9.5 on offer in Cafe, if somebody is interested.

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By the way, these are the 10, which I just got today. Right out of the box.
The leather is quite a bit waxy.

The 9.5 look more or less the same.

Edited by indigoeagle

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1 hour ago, robotbox said:

@bartlebyyphonicswhere did you pick up your suede russell chukkas?  I saw them in a fit pic you posted and they look fantastic.  

if you wear a small size it's worth to have a look for a second hand pair on yahoo.jp, plenty of them floating around, in the cool[er] JP makeups too.
 

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@indigoeagle I agree that true to size is correct. I’m also a EU 44, I bought the Michael’s in 43.5, and they were painfully tight. The big toe on my left foot was also touching the front of the shoe. I exchanged them for a 44, and my toe was no longer touching the front, but the shoe was crushing the widest part of my foot. I was going to sell them, likely for a loss, until I read a review somewhere and the reviewer said the break in process was awful. After two weeks of regretting not just selling them because it seemed like they just didn’t fit and wouldn’t break in, they were suddenly comfortable. The left foot is still a wee bit more snug than the right, but it still feels pretty good. I’m surprised at how much the leather stretched- though the outsole breaking in may have had something to do with it, they had what seemed like no flex at all the first few days. I’m happy I stuck with them, I’m really starting to like them.

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13 hours ago, robotbox said:

@bartlebyyphonicswhere did you pick up your suede russell chukkas?  I saw them in a fit pic you posted and they look fantastic.  

thank you; got them off the shelf when superdenim (the shop, not the website) had a brick and mortar site in London (with real mccoys) and they had a few variations... double select seem to sell them off the shelf in uk too but very limited options ... if you are US based, my advice would be find some examples and get in touch with them to build that spec. [their own versions seem less adventurous than those on the Japanese sites... ] they are in Berlin Wisconsin, that now infamous swing state... [I think the county they are in were pretty red through and through though]

12 hours ago, volvo240thebest said:

if you wear a small size it's worth to have a look for a second hand pair on yahoo.jp, plenty of them floating around, in the cool[er] JP makeups too.
 

indeed, sz 9 seems the biggest... the one time I was in Japan drunken salarymen would point at my size 10.5UK gaijin feet in exclamation ...

that said, off the shelf rm advice seems to be (as with redwing) get a 1/2 size smaller: ie I have a US 11 D

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StAuCXB.jpg

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Figured I should contribute to the thread as well...

Trickers shell cordovan boots with Sugar Cane x Self Edge

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For Russell Mocs, if you can get the model number from one of the japanese make ups, you can get them remade directly from Russell as a custom order. I got a pair custom made years ago, pics in this thread somewhere. They were very easy to deal with and the possibilities are pretty endless. I am going to wear mine tomorrow!

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6936D50C-9017-4D58-9F87-9AF2E7379ABD.thumb.jpeg.573079e2d724cab88b0a765ba093b1bf.jpeg

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Not sure how you guys think of Visvim, these come from the FW12 collection. Made from Horween bison if I’m not wrong. Got these during the 11.11 sale on Rakuten and had a 10% off. These came with full of pet’s hair and scuffs. Gave them a good clean and conditioning and they look great and well worn in already. The sole looks like they can go on for another few years before a resole. 

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I posted about those back in 2012 and they weren’t well received here then.  Basically, it was compared to Wesco.  I even received down votes for posting it.
 

The Poundmaker.  Sounds like a large American Burger special.

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I still like them too :D  But I’m a Wesco man.

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