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Shoes that look better with age...

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45 minutes ago, Cucoo said:

Looks great. How much higher is the heel now with the full sole vs. half sole before the resole?

Just a few mm according to Ger Wijsmans, enough to accommodate the thicker sole.

 

14 minutes ago, mlwdp said:

Volvo, have you noticed a difference in the weight of the boots now when wearing them?

It's not noticeable when wearing the boots.

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IH 1955 over Paraboot shoes.

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I got my shit-kickers repaired!

I have had these since new in my freshman year of high school. Through the years, I have worn them to near death, having them re-soled and re-heeled as necessary. This is the third bottom sole, fifth heel sole, and fourth heel block that has been on these boots.

I wore them for long stretches during my high school years, despite getting mocked for them. I wore them all through my trip to England in my teens.

During my eight years in the navy, these were the only civilian shoes I had. I wore them in to boot camp, and they sat sealed in a plastic bag hanging from my locker the entire time I was there. Once I got to Nuclear Power School, I started wearing them again, whenever I wore civilian clothes. They have traveled tens of thousands of miles beneath the Pacific and Indian Oceans, and the Persian Gulf, not seeing much use but during my free time, and occasionally being snuck in to a watch (the navy word for a work shift). In the navy, I eventually wore the bottom sole out, along with another heel, and had the boots repaired yet again.

I wore them off and on in my years following the navy, finally wearing through yet another bottom sole and heel. At this point, probably due to a combination of laziness, forgetfulness, and lack of financial ability (being a student at the time), I failed to repair them when they needed it. They sat perhaps 5–6 years.

Several months ago, I came across them while digging through old stuff, and I decided to have them repaired again. They sat in my wife's car for many months. They finally made it to the shoe repair guy a few weeks ago.

I don't think they've been this black since they were new. The lower portion was pretty much entirely gray-brown when I dropped them off. Now they're better than ever, with a thick Vibram sole this time. Time to go kick some shit!

I don't know what brand they are, but it's nothing "good" – no leather at all outside of the uppers and the insoles (other than the few runs of leather welt that have replaced missing runs of the original plastic welt). I found out only recently that they are technically called harness boots. I always just called them shit-kickers (something my dad called them when I first came home with them). And yes, they used to be flat-toed, but have lost that shape over the years.

I had the shoe guy shorten the heel block about 1–1.5 cm this time, making them have closer to a roper-type rise on the heels. I thought about having the harnesses removed entirely during this re-soling, but the shoe guy talked me out of it. Maybe next time...

Edited by 428CJ

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I got some of my English shoes rebuilt at Dr. Sole.

Pretty nice work. Corded nitrile soles & heels, natural leather mids and stacks, natural storm welt, Goodyear, Norwegian stitched at the heels:

2XIbPRb.jpg

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beautiful, please post profile pic of the Stow boot...

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My Attractions Lot. 444 engineer boots pre-order came in recently!!!
Looking forward to breaking these in!

IMG_5443 h.JPG

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On 06/01/2018 at 9:35 PM, volvo240thebest said:

beautiful, please post profile pic of the Stow boot...

 

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^ Pretty bitchin', but they're looking too wide for a snip toe IMO. Maybe the pics are just of a very small size though.

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Got some new boots...

Flat Head Medallion Boots, made of black Chromexcel leather with a quilted cowhide shaft, Vibram #700 sole, and custom FH cast steel buckles.   They're super comfortable right out of the box, which is always a huge plus for me as I can't really handle breaking in stiff boots.

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Seems like it's rare to find a cap toe on an engineer boot nowadays.

Edited by mlwdp

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Super interesting boot for sure. 

Why CXL and not something like Essex, at least though. I've never understood CXL on expensive boots, but Japanese brands like Lofgren, RDT and my own pair of Monad boots are the same...

CXL is 5 bucks a square feet. 

Edited by mikecch

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Bakers Oxfords in red dog roughout. 

 

Had these since 2012 and they will soon go in for their 3rd resole. Thinking about that split vibrant 2020(?) Gloxi cut sole in white this time around for something different. 

 

Second sole pic isnt uploading.   it’s basically bald haha 

 

 

D920CAC6-3C3E-4838-9B39-70C392304815.jpeg

Edited by garden gnomes in space

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Nice, I need to get myself a pair of those for the summer.

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Z7l3Jyt.jpg

 

The W & Anchor Bros. type II work shoe.

Horween Essex leather.

Double row Goodyear welt, storm-welted.

Dr. Sole Originals heels and soles.

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I remember a few pages back about a post on the soles Red Wing uses on their boots.

 

 

 

IMG_2183.PNG

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Yep, as Dr. Sole showed me before, the rubber half soles RW uses are really cheap and all crack with wear. This is next level cheap :P

Edited by Iron Horse

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Really odd that the leather portions are looking very well preserved.

I wonder who manufactures their synthetic soles.

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haha i saw that on their IG and thought it was some new sole they were making.  I was like, thats ugly but whatever floats their boat.  I didnt realize that was a destroyed Red Wing sole

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3140 at about 10 years. Curiously mine are lined. Toe box is lined with canvas and everything else with leather with padding between.

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On 1/11/2018 at 3:25 AM, mikecch said:

Super interesting boot for sure. 

Why CXL and not something like Essex, at least though. I've never understood CXL on expensive boots, but Japanese brands like Lofgren, RDT and my own pair of Monad boots are the same...

CXL is 5 bucks a square feet. 

True that  why cxl?!?

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Viberg 2045s on Horween crust horsebutt from MTO last year. They have darkened fairly quickly after break in.

 

 

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Love the shape of the 2045 last, probably my favorite fitting boot that I own.

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6 hours ago, edmond said:

True that  why cxl?!?

It's a great work boot leather for sure, and truly Americana. 

But given the material cost and the actual quality of the leather, better suited for sub $500 boots. 

I certainly don't miss the days back in 2011 when absolutely everything was made with CXL. Now everything is shell which isn't so much better - where's the grain? Is it leather if it has no grain? ;)

I recently saw a Japanese boot maker offering Baker's oak bark leather, which is pretty cool. 

 

4 hours ago, Iron Horse said:

Doesn’t Lone Wolf use CXL?

Yes, I think CXL, various latigo leathers, etc. 

I think for strict repro boots those leathers are great. 

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5 hours ago, mikecch said:

Yes, I think CXL, various latigo leathers, etc. 

I think for strict repro boots those leathers are great. 

I was just messing with Ed. :P

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On 1/14/2018 at 12:06 PM, mikecch said:

It's a great work boot leather for sure, and truly Americana. 

But given the material cost and the actual quality of the leather, better suited for sub $500 boots. 

I certainly don't miss the days back in 2011 when absolutely everything was made with CXL. Now everything is shell which isn't so much better - where's the grain? Is it leather if it has no grain? ;)

I recently saw a Japanese boot maker offering Baker's oak bark leather, which is pretty cool. 

 

Yes, I think CXL, various latigo leathers, etc. 

I think for strict repro boots those leathers are great. 

Sounds interesting using Bakers oak bark leather for boots. Do you have any pics or additional details on the Japanese maker? I’d imagine it would be pretty stiff so I’m curious what thickness it needs to be reduced down to in order to make it wearable?

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Clinch 1 year on:

IMG_4474_zpsrhspktgr.jpg

Indy 5 years on:

IMG_4475_zpsgcicums1.jpg

Edited by Aries

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10 hours ago, spacecadet said:

Sounds interesting using Bakers oak bark leather for boots. Do you have any pics or additional details on the Japanese maker? I’d imagine it would be pretty stiff so I’m curious what thickness it needs to be reduced down to in order to make it wearable?

Sorry buddy, no additional information from me.

I'm guessing the thickness would be around 3 oz. Maybe 5 oz if they oil the leather up beforehand.

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