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Hey Thinker, I believe this might have been discussed at length in another thread but what do you prefer about Goodyear welt over stitch-down?

 

Someone in another forum, who seemed to know what he was talking about, said that all White's have a Goodyear welt even though they look "stitched down" like a Viberg boot.  Also said he preferred that to stitched down because it is more waterproof.  I have to say though, the Vibergs I have had have about as tight a welt as you can imagine; maybe not totally waterproof, but clearly good enough for everyday (and then some).

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4g4j.jpg

As i am considering Viberg in Loden Green wish to see more update photos of this boots!

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Hey Thinker, I believe this might have been discussed at length in another thread but what do you prefer about Goodyear welt over stitch-down?

I think it's just my personal preference. 

But in terms of the ease of resole, the life of Goodyear welted footwear can be extend longer than stitch-down footwear. Stitch-down footwear can only be resoled for very limited times unless the vamps are replaced too. As I mentioned before, if you send your Wesco boots back to factory for re-building, Wesco will probably replace the vamps too. 

Besides, in general, Goodyear welted shoes/boots are lighter than Wesco/Viberg stitch-down ones.  

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Someone in another forum, who seemed to know what he was talking about, said that all White's have a Goodyear welt even though they look "stitched down" like a Viberg boot.  Also said he preferred that to stitched down because it is more waterproof.  I have to say though, the Vibergs I have had have about as tight a welt as you can imagine; maybe not totally waterproof, but clearly good enough for everyday (and then some).

White's stitch-down is pretty much like a combination of stitch-down and Goodyear welted construction, which is quite unique. I would say it's very similar to Norwegian welted construction: the vamps are folded outward and stitched beneath the welt. The difference lies in the way leather welt is folded, and the visibility of the first stitching.

 

For White's boots, the first stitching that connects the insole, vamps and welt is concealed; invisible from appearance. On the other hand, the first stitching on Norwegian boots is visible. 

 

Norwegian Welted Construction:

Norwegian.jpg 

 

White's welt-sewing (sewn by hand):  

524291_340594275996068_1048750900_n.jpg

 

White's stitch-down are used on its main lines, such as Smoke Jumper, Semi-Dress, and Nomad. However, there are other product lines using "true" Goodyear welted construction, such as the Vintage series, Hathorn Ranchers, and so on.

 

Hathorn Rancher:

524016_376130845775744_89110086_n.jpg

 

Besides, White's has another shoe-making method. When you choose "close trim" on the sole, the standard double stitch on the sole will become single stitch. In this case, the uppers are not turned outward; instead, the uppers are trimmed off and only the welt are stitched to the leather midsole and outsole, which make it a little bit like Goodyear welted construction.

 

Close trim:

IMG_3307.jpg

 

In a nutshell, the more I dig into White's, the more I like it. There is no doubt that White's makes high quality boots. It's even more impressive that it uses several constructions to build boots, which we don't see from other famous bootmaker.  

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Thanks for the info, Thinker! And you are right about a Wesco rebuild, they do replace the vamp as well.

Edited by superfuzz

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I've also heard that if you get your Wescos resoled they go from double stitched to single stitched welt.

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I've also heard that if you get your Wescos resoled they go from double stitched to single stitched welt.

They only go down to a single stitched welt if they can't keep the second row. It basically comes down to the shape the welt or edge of the vamp is in when you send them in for a rebuild. I've had a rebuild come back with the original two rows with a note saying they were able to reuse it.

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Thanks for the info. So is there a difference if you get a rebuild vs. a resole from Wesco?

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This has no doubt been covered before but how's the sizing on Wesco Jobmasters? Would one take the same size they wear in Whites Semi Dress/Bounty Hunter or even Alden Trubalance for example? Was trying to wait out a few pairs of White's but there are a ton of beautiful Wesco's on their FS page...

 

EDIT: Same size apparently ;)

Edited by aho

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The Bounty Hunters took a pretty good beating while I was in NZ

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A bit of TLC with some warm water, neutral shoe cream, and a horsehair brush:

11216685874_0e2a6f19cc_z.jpg11216675205_cbb1ee5040_z.jpg11216704566_473d886819_z.jpg

And they're ready again for their next adventure!

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Awesome white's Morse and Peter! My Nomads are all I have worn for the past 2 weeks in Japan.

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Five year old Grensons:

P1240694_zps6cd080a1.jpg

And perdy new Vibergs:

P1240749_zpsa70e0df9.jpg

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Morse, that's the best looking pair of White's I think I've ever seen and the first with a block heel that haven't looked odd. Well done to you and White's for putting those together. I may have to copy that make up in the new year and get some of my own.

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Thanks for the info. So is there a difference if you get a rebuild vs. a resole from Wesco?

Technically the rebuild replaces a number of parts (they have a diagram somewhere on their site showing which pieces), plus a resole, and a resole is just taking apart the old sole and replacing it.

 

Rebuilds pretty much aren't necessary unless you resole so often you wear out the vamp and they can't stitch it again, or if you seriously wear the boots (logging uses or other similarly tough use).

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Completely agree with the sentiment that those are incredibly good whites, and the first I've seen where the block heel wasn't terribly off looking.  Not to blow the spot on your secret, if there is one, but was the achieved only by the lowering of the heel, or was there another spec change responsible?  It seems like the heel starts closer to the boot than all other block heels I've seen.  

 

I'm guessing you might have just personally caused a serious uptick in eventual orders with Whites...

 

The roughout distressed is a spot-on leather for doing an M43...jstavrin has an incredibly well worn pair of whites with that leather that he has dubbed regularly, and at all stages in their life, they have carried on the M43 vibe pretty perfectly.

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Just did the 'Build a Boot' at Baker's for a pair like Morse's and am seriously tempted to pull the trigger and spend money I don't have.

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I'm so envious of you and your perfect fitting White's. Although I'm not a fan of the block heel, that is indeed a fine semi-dress you've got there.

I, on the other hand, seem to have gotten myself into another White's boots fit debacle.

I was measured - again - at White's over the summer. Bob Putt who has been fitting people in White's for twenty or so years set me in a 10B left foot - 10.5B right foot for a smoke jumper. They arrived just in time for thanks giving.

Smokejumperside_zpsa013ba75.jpg

whites3qtr_zps89a9c3d8.jpg

my problem is my left foot fits perfectly in the heel and ball area, but the tip of my big toe is pushing uncomfortably on the outside of the toe box. And since I got the lace to toe version, the toe is pushing against the celastic toe box. I think my problem is that my big toes just stick out farther than the ball of my foot, and White's relies very heavily on a tight ball area to keep your feet from sliding forward and moving around on slopes and such.

99FF43F1-D9D7-4FF2-BCE9-6FF543A18521_zps

anybody else have feet like this? Am I just crazy?

I contacted White's about it, and I'm pretty sure I'm gonna have to send them in for an adjustment. They will put the last back in the boot with a fitting in the toe area and use some sort of chemical to soften the celastic toe box. For now the person I spoke to on the phone said to just stick with em for the initial break in period, and if it doesn't change in 2-3 weeks - send them in.

I'm a little skeptical that its going to work out, and I'm worried I'm headed for a rebuild to set em straight on the 10.5B last.

I love the boots. Its just always gotta be something with me.

 

This is what I was really looking for, a service boot. White's semi-dress in distressed rough out with lowered block heel and close trim. Slightly clunkier than the Vibergs, but way more my style and about a third of the price. This is my third pair of White's and the construction and fit on every pair is bar none. I'll hold off on a Viberg service boot until the spring..

 

IMAG0540_zps3e3b4e03.jpg

Edited by erk

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^ That's exactly what I'm wearing for the HWBC. Only about a couple months of wear, but they've already far and away become my favorite boots I've ever owned. I'll toss up some pics of the relatively little evo I have in the HWBC thread in a few days.

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Anyone else been keeping tabs on CLINCH shoes by Brass Tokyo?  I know someone posted about them months and months ago. 

Pretty sure they are MTO, out of my price range, not sure they do international, etc, etc.  But damn, I've been lustin' after some of their posts...

 

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I'm pysched you guys like the new White's! I absolutely love them and wore them all day today with zero foot fatigue. I did a bunch of research on turning a semi dress in a field boot after I saw a similar pair on here quite a while back (owned by DDML I think). No secrets - I think lowering the heel can look goofy if you don't get it in block and close trim, but the combination of those three options seems to work really well when used all together. Here's the exact specs I used on Baker's. Price was like $390 and the wait was only a month. Lowering the heel does not ruin the fit or lessen the arch ease feature that White's are known for.

 

Custom Semi Dress by White's Boots
Hardware All Black Eyes, Celastic Toe Box Single Celastic Toe, Midsole Single, Heel Base 90 Degree Blocked off Heel (Traveler), Upper (Shaft) Leather Distressed Rough Out, Toe Cap No Thanks, Toe Vamp Leather Distressed Rough Out, Sole Trim Close Trim, Last Standard, Leather Liner No Thanks, Pull Loops No Thanks, Size - Width E, Toe Bug Stitching No Thank You, Sole Vibram 430 Mini Vib, Heel Lifts 1/4" Lower, Edge Natural, Toe Bug Stitching Color Does not apply, Size - Length 10

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Ha, are they CLINCH? sombrero just posted some of their shoes above  that look suspiciously like these!

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