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Shoes that look better with age...

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X post from WAYWT thread. I know these are not fashionable in the SUFU sense of the word but I thought I would put these up on here as they are sought after in other circles! They are a pair of Altberg Bergen boots. These can be fully serviced by Altberg including re-soling so will last a lifetime.  I have heard story's of these holding up to 3 re-soling's  with hard military use!!

 

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^I have also heard of Altberg hardiness, these Aussie dudes in RC South loved theirs. Due to uniform regs I can't attest to the quality myself but if they say so I believe em!

 

On an unrelated note: quick snapshot of my repro roughouts, they are actually quite comfy even on load-bearing hikes with the right socks. 

 

H4lZs5v.jpg

 

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Picked up the Alden x Context Roy boot in snuff suede yesterday...wondering if I should hit them with some protectant spray?

 

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Edited by jdmcnary

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I wouldn't. Although suede will get dirty, it's pretty hearty and will look fine with a good brushing. I think i remember even seeing a video a year or so ago from Leffot where they actually hand washed a similar pair of suede boots after they got dirty. Looked absolutely no worse for wear afterward.

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Thanks ^...  I think that's the route I'll go and leave them alone; I remember seeing that same video from Leffot.  Not sure I could ever do that to a pair of nice suede boots...but I was surprised how well they handled it.  

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id definitely spray them once or twice a year. it doesnt just protect them from dirt/rain but also restores moisture. that being said, dont baby them!

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Actually, be careful with any of the sprays that are out there. Most, if not all, contain silicone, and that can damage the leather. Stick to something natural if you want to seal it.

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What do yo do guys to avoid indigo stains on light brown boots? I want to maintain my new red wings free of indigo (or without too much). I have thought to spray my jeans cuff with a nano protector:

 

Any other recomendations?

 

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I have heard of people taping the inside of the leg opening with carton tape...which might work for cuffed jeans.

Personally, I'd say take it like a man and live with it, though.

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I have heard of people taping the inside of the leg opening with carton tape...which might work for cuffed jeans.

Personally, I'd say take it like a man and live with it, though.

agreed,red wings need to be beat around, let that patina develop, indigo is just part of the process.

If you walk around with pristine looking fresh red wings forever, people who actually wear them for their intended work purposes will be laughing at you.

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I'm sure the general consensus around here is to wear your boots hard. i can see his point though, he likes his boots not indigo stained, fair enough. i think taping the inside of your jeans will be the least destructive way of preventing stains on yours boots.

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I sometimes think that people who wear Redwings for their intended work purposes are already laughing at all of us for spending hundreds, if not thousands of dollars replicating the workwear image while keeping desk jobs.

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some shots of my katahdins. had them for about 3 years, still going strong. 

 

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I have a very similar pair of pre-Katahdin Chippewas, before they started making them for LL Bean, and I wore them about 4 or 5 days a week for 10 years before the leather started to split. Nice boots.

 

 

some shots of my katahdins. had them for about 3 years, still going strong. 
 
 
 
xj769N9.jpg
 
 

 

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You could construct a wire frame to slip under the cuff to hold your rawr denimz away from your authentic work bootz preventing that disastrous denim/leather interface.

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Hi guys, I recently pulled the half soles off of my wolverine 1000 mile boots (they where coming unstuck at the front!) and I was thinking that the leather soles could do with a treatment! I have some leaherique rejuvenator oil at home that I got from aero (it's what they recommend for their jackets!) Do you think that this treatment would be OK for these boots?

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Anybody with a pair of Whites' SD in black horsehide with some age care to post some pictures?

 

I haven't really seen any pictures of the leather with wear. Does it give way to brown undertones, or stay pretty black?

Edited by PeterParker

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Hi guys, I recently pulled the half soles off of my wolverine 1000 mile boots (they where coming unstuck at the front!) and I was thinking that the leather soles could do with a treatment! I have some leaherique rejuvenator oil at home that I got from aero (it's what they recommend for their jackets!) Do you think that this treatment would be OK for these boots?

Hey man, I've used Leatherique on everything from my car's leather interior to Mulholland Brothers Lariat leather (natural finish) to a natural color ostrich belt and never had a problem - stuff works great

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Hey man, I've used Leatherique on everything from my car's leather interior to Mulholland Brothers Lariat leather (natural finish) to a natural color ostrich belt and never had a problem - stuff works great

Thanks man, that's just what I thought! I will hit them with it when I finish these night shifts!

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/\ exactly same problem for me, except went down not up. Even with the G width they didn't work, too short.  :(

 

 

After putting it off for a year, I finally ordered a pair of the WL Dundas in brown today. Fingers crossed!

 

 

Ooh very exciting. 

 

Ruefully sold my pair I had built to spec due to the sizing issue, but am contemplating having a new pair made up only this time using my own last rather than the stock WL, and pending advice about soling.

 

Honestly, despite some marginal 'precision' imperfection they are probably some of the best value, sturdy boots out there and certainly at the factory price (ignoring other collabs, and the mark up on Rakuten, phew...!) and blessedly free of damn goodyear gemming.

.

'got the TOW in reversed kip__  w/c is surely the hardiest, heaviest leather i've ever encountered.  mosdef the most difficult pair i've ever tried to break in.  

 

IMO, from a denimhead's point of view, it's the stuff that i live for  ... a challenge & a trail worth blazing.  i've read somewhere that it takes about a year of dedicated wear just to turn a corner.  i'm in my 9th month,  maybe approx 5-6 mos of effective wear,  so i'm half-way there  ;)

 

btw, depending on the last [eg, lower profile like WWI B5, etc. ], you can request for vamp lining w/o reinforcement [ie, unstructured toe] ... it'll save you a few months on the break in period + [aesthetically] less bulbous.

Edited by BrownMetallic

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Hit these with leatherique last night, I have to say that it is quite liberating to go without halfsoles! I am gonna wear these until there are holes in the soles then I am going to get some William Lennon's I think!

 

IMG_20131125_212116_zps7725bcf4.jpg

 

IMG_20131125_212104_zps656abd77.jpg

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.

'got the TOW in reversed kip__  w/c is surely the hardiest, heaviest leather i've ever encountered.  mosdef the most difficult pair i've ever tried to break in.  

\

 

Can you guys comment on the fit of the Dundas boot compared with others you've worn?

 

Also, when you say William Lennon Dundas, are those bought directly through WL, as opposed to the Dundas boot website...?

 

Thanks!

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Dundas is a brand - William Lennon make the boots. They also have made editions for YMC (YouMustCreate) and MH (Margaret Howell). 

 

The Dundas type 01 is a make up for that brand. You could approximate the look with a custom order yourself direct from WL. And save the ridiculous mark up.

 

The sole attachment is a particular unique method screwed and stitched where the machine fed threaded brass wire joins all the soles together. A few other firms still operate this way.

 

There are three lasts;

 

- the WWII Army last used on the derby boots e.g. 78 models etc

- the '88' shepherds last used on the hill boots, notable for the upward sprung toe

- and the 2181 B5 last with the square toe

 

I'm not certain whether the Dundas range use the fully sprung 88 or the regular British Army last, but the fit is an English 'G' width. Sizewise, I am a bang on UK 9, which usually means dropping down to 8.5 UK for some, not all, British boots - however dropping to an 8 meant my boots on the Army last were too short. The 9 was a tad large all over, although comfortable. 

 

If you are a generous 'whole' size then that size may well indeed work. 

 

I don't do insole inserts, preferring hard leather under my feet, and little unnecessary arch support.... Besides as far as I am concerned aftermarket insoles take up volume 'vertically' meaning your foot sits higher in the boot, not always good for heal fit. Just my opinion of course.

 

...Damn I just checked the dundas website and the cheapest pair on there are £456!!! they are almost identical to the WL 178 boot @£155.95 from the factory but the upper is a bit shorter (by one eyelet(I thought that would make them cheaper if anything;-))) and over £520 for the chromexel model! I emailed WL about a month ago and they had black chromexel in stock! I have to say I am a bit bemused that anyone who knows that WL make those boots would not just order from WL, maybe im just jealous as I am skint at the moment! :rolleyes:

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