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Shoes that look better with age...


kiya

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How do folks size Yuketen mocs? Been interested in a pair for a while & found a slew on sale @ https://www.mytheresa.com/en-us/men/sale/shoes.html?designer=8118

I think I’m pretty close to an 11 on a Brannock device, but I’ve never had anything bigger than a 10.5 that feels like it fits me well, so there’s that. I normally wear pretty thick socks, but prob. wouldn’t want to with moccasins. Not sure between a 10 and an 11—leaning towards 10

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20 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

Okay, good info. Seems you’re 1 size down from me in everything besides Lofgren (I’m also a 9.5 there—go figure), so sounds like a 10 is probably the move.

@julian-wolf - You're almost 11 on Brannock and wear JL 9.5? Do you have JL Engineer boots?

Asking because I put down a deposit on a pair of Devil's Causeway. I'm a 9EE on Brannock and have high arch & instep, very high volume. I usually wear 9.5EE or Wide. At first S&S recommended a 9.0. But I bought a pair of Viberg 2055 in 8.5, and they were way to small. So S&S recommended I size up the JL's to 9.5. I've heard stories about people finding the JL/s difficult to get on. I'm really stressing about the size... I hope they work out for me... like I said previously, I'd rather err on the side of too big than too small for pull-on boots, but I'm nervous about them being too big. 

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@mpukas I’ve never tried their engineers, but I’ve been a consistent 9.5 in all the lace-ups I’ve tried (M-43, combat boots, moc toes)

That said, I don’t know of anyone else that’s sized down as much as me—I think something about their lasts just works weird with my feet

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On 6/9/2021 at 2:52 AM, julian-wolf said:

How do folks size Yuketen mocs? Been interested in a pair for a while & found a slew on sale @ https://www.mytheresa.com/en-us/men/sale/shoes.html?designer=8118

I think I’m pretty close to an 11 on a Brannock device, but I’ve never had anything bigger than a 10.5 that feels like it fits me well, so there’s that. I normally wear pretty thick socks, but prob. wouldn’t want to with moccasins. Not sure between a 10 and an 11—leaning towards 10

I bought a pair of boating moc from eBay ( new never worn ) I’m an 9 and bought 9 and l should have sized up one .

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  • 2 weeks later...
13 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

A7D299EC-FFC5-415D-B7FC-564F70F37289.thumb.jpeg.a2876f93f2cabc82a9514a6761b40411.jpeg

DAYUM!!! Love them. Congrats! Fit pics and impressions when you get a chance, pls. 

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What’s the deal with some shoes being built such that the outsole bulges outwards towards the center? What’s the reasoning for shoemakers doing this? Does the outsole flatten out with time & wear, or does it remain curved? To be clear, I’m not talking about toe spring, but about the center of the outsole bulging out beyond the edges (see photos).

I’ve noticed this on my boots from Fracap and Flame Panda, and I’m not sure how to feel about it. It’s also evident on most (new) boots that I’ve seen from Brass Tokyo, so I doubt that it’s an accident or a mark of poor quality—but I’ve never had the opportunity to see, in person, what effects it has after extended wear.

Do folks know what I’m talking about? Any insight?

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While I’m at it, some initial shots of the Flame Panda #206

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Breaking these in is gonna be rough. The leather is thick and very stiff. It has a great sheen to it, though, & I’m really looking forward to seeing how it ages.

Peng shipped them with two pairs of waxed cotton laces (one flat & one round), but given how chunky the boots turned out I think they’ll be a good fit for these black raw hide laces from White’s.

The construction is very clean. All of the stitching is at very consistent intervals, and coincident seems line up with corner perfectly. The edges at the bottoms of the quarters aren’t burnished super straight, but that’s the only plausible imperfection I can come up with. Overall, they really are immaculate.

Edited by julian-wolf
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8 minutes ago, Duke Mantee said:

Is it to accommodate the different bend radii of the sole components?

Maybe, but seems like probably not. Framing it in terms of bend radii is tricky, since mounting the soles like this actually requires deflecting them along two axes / actually stretching out the center of the outsole onto a curved manifold. (Sorry if I’m not making much sense; I’m not used to talking about this sort of thing without using physics / math words.)

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1 hour ago, julian-wolf said:

Maybe, but seems like probably not. Framing it in terms of bend radii is tricky, since mounting the soles like this actually requires deflecting them along two axes / actually stretching out the center of the outsole onto a curved manifold. (Sorry if I’m not making much sense; I’m not used to talking about this sort of thing without using physics / math words.)

I think you might be overthinking it, no part of the sole is flat but I guess the cobbler isn’t doing anything other than cutting a little bigger to relieve some stress on the stitching. But that’s just some wild theory on my part … so if you’ve got some numbers/calculations to expand on your thoughts throw them up here, I think I’ll cope :wink:

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No part of the sole is flat, but usually the curve is just front to back: If you wanted to make a sole out of paper, you could bend it a bit to have the toe spring up but still keep it straight along the other axis & get just what you see on most shoes (besides the paper probably wearing down pretty quickly…). What I'm talking about wouldn't be possible with paper. You could bend the [paper] sole front to back, but when you tried to bend it side to side to get the center to bulge out, the front-to-back bend would snap out of place since paper just isn't elastic like that. The center of the outsole bulges outwards, which is to say that no matter what direction you look at it from (even looking head on from the toe of the boot) the center of the sole will be lower down towards the ground than the edges, & the sole will strike the ground at (something like) a single point rather than (something like) a line going all the way across from inside to outside.

It wouldn't do anything to relieve stress on the stitching—getting something like rubber to bulge like this means stretching it pretty actively, and, if anything, it would add extra stress. It may be necessary in order to make room for whatever's going on between the insole and the outsole, but since the apex of the bulge seems to happen so far forward, I doubt it would be anything like a shank. My best guess is that it's just extra cork / leather filling, and that it's put there intentionally—just can't figure why that might be beneficial.

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