Shoes that look better with age...

[Broark]

Those Coupens always make me hate the fact that I have big feet!

[shredwin_206]

Smokejumpers over a year of hard wear working construction  

[mlwdp]

Anybody ever heard of SKOOB?

https://global.rakuten.com/en/store/vintage/item/132812555/

[canucklehead]

What do you think of these?

[mlwdp]

Finally. I had wanted the 100th Anniversary Horsehide version they did last year but I'm not willing to pay $2,000 and these are basically the same thing. I also tried to make 10 inch Horsehide Jobmasters like the 100th Anniversary ones but Wesco said they don't have the hides to do this.  Sending them Ironheart brass buckles (I wanted custom Silver buckles but Studio Wokini and noone else was willing to do it) and 430 half soles.  See you in July-August.

CUSTOM FIT BOSS STYLE BKH7710430 (Size: Sending Updated Form with Order)   +Single-Tone:Black Horsehide   +10" Height   +Motorcycle Patrol Toe   +#430 Vibram® Sole   +Dye Soles and Heels Black   +Standard Boss Heel Height   +One Top Strap (standard)   +Standard Length   +Customer Supplied 5/8" Wide Top Buckles   +Buckled Instep Straps   +Standard Length Instep Strap   +Customer Supplied 7/8" Wide Instep Buckles   +Lightweight Brown Upper Stitching   +White Outsole Stitching    +Black Tie Domain Leather Insert RECIPIENT:

SHIPPING INSTRUCTIONS Boots estimated to be completed week of 07/22/2019 (mm/dd/yyyy).   $658.00   $20.00 $678.00

 

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Edited April 21, 2019 by mlwdp

[mlwdp]

My Ironheart brass buckles came in.

 

 

[bartlebyyphonics]

just finished the thread from the beginning.

what a ride: thanks to all those who have imparted and shared.

interesting the amount of English dress and country style at the beginning... less spit polish today!

as my small contribution some offerings:

1/4

grenson boot, approx 12/14 years old

[no idea of model name or leather type: treated only with dubbin]

a last gasp from before they moved core production to india

recently re-soled at cheaney factory [where there they applied its first coat of polish: boo... lost a lot of its naturally acquired patina... ]

[bartlebyyphonics]

2/4

cheaney fiennes derby veldtschoen w. grain leather

3 years old or so: super comfy out of the box and still now... a nice generous toe compared to more more formal English shoes and the above grenson

very supple leather, very little upkeep needed: again, dubbin only for these...

[bartlebyyphonics]

3/4

recently acquired russell moccasin sporting clay chukka in lamarie suede (which is so thick I wonder if it nears rough-out qualities)

seen this model earlier in the thread but not worn later

[hope to update after the summer's wear]

details of wonky stitching, different graininess of the suede [which is thankfully matched across left and right] and a fit

[feel these go best with a mildly tapered fit and/or smaller hem: such as tender 130 here or lvc 1976 - seen it paired nicely with resolute 710 on the 'gram...]

[bartlebyyphonics]

4/4

in thanks to @Iron Horse's post earlier down the thread of japanese boot IG accounts, some favorites, whites sj (?), a nice clinch jodphur boot (not seen here before?) and a range of nicely worn redwings

impressed by the #browncore obsessions on the klondike leather (and am guessing older vintage pairs) of some redwing offerings and of the hem to ankle ratio going on in some of these posts... [also: what is #zooclub / #ツーブー倶楽部 - used a hashtag for boot lovers, but any ideas of the zoo connotations?]

 

and then my own relatively spanking new redwing 2268 paired with a nicely voluminous tender 132 as homage

 

[Iron Horse]

I have no idea what the zoo-club thing is; my only guess is that ツーブー (tsubu) is some sort of backwards/typo version of ブーツ (butsu) or 'boots'. My Japanese isn't good enough for this mystery!

[bartlebyyphonics]

ah, thanx: makes some more sense!

I would have thought it was completely random, but one of the top tagged post using that hashtag is by the esteemed dr sole of a rather ebullient jason mamoa being rather enthusiastic with his wescos...

[shredwin_206]

Anyone know if a celastic toe box will collapse and break in over time? 

My backup pair of smokejumpers I had rebuilt have a celastic toe and I hate it. 

It pinched my toes when I crouch and kneel which is a lot when you work construction 

[HGS]

@bartlebyyphonics those cheaney fiennes are incredible, they have aged nicely and the wear is interesting and subtle.  I am really starting to come around to grain leather especially for a boot like that.  Something like this is going on my list.

[rodeo bill]

Polishing Sunday (been a while). Alden cordovan boots, I don't remember the style name or the last I'm afraid. These are twelve years old I think, currently on Dainite soles:

[bartlebyyphonics]

14 hours ago, HGS said:

@bartlebyyphonics those cheaney fiennes are incredible, they have aged nicely and the wear is interesting and subtle.  I am really starting to come around to grain leather especially for a boot like that.  Something like this is going on my list.

hey: thanks. they were a bit of an impulse rather than super planned item: no regrets: comfy all the way; would never have planned to get a leather like that: but it works work werks

[MJF9]

^ excellent boot / chukka parade @bartlebyyphonics

Here here to the pebble grain texture of those Cheaneys... will be interested to see those Russell mocs evolve...

[Thanks_M8]

@ecsong187at least a little in my experience, but by far not as much as an unstructured toebox. But I can only speak for my wescos, had the same problem with them, but it got better with wear.

 

Edited April 28, 2019 by Thanks_M8
Toebox not toolbox

[cameosis]

some new vintage bargains (it’s been a minute since i last posted):

tecnic veldtschoen, aldershot model (€ 50 including shipping from britain, € 25(!) for the shoes alone), 1980s, size 42 eu, size 08 uk.
great fit, very comfortable—and some heavy shoes to boot. 

unknown british ankle boots, zug leather (€ 125 including shipping from britain, € 100 for the shoes alone), 1940s-1950s, size 43 eu, size 09 uk.
snug fit, supple leather—the color is wonderful. studded sole, packing a punch.

Edited May 7, 2019 by cameosis

[cameosis]

On 4/27/2019 at 2:02 PM, Iron Horse said:

I have no idea what the zoo-club thing is; my only guess is that ツーブー (tsubu) is some sort of backwards/typo version of ブーツ (butsu) or 'boots'. My Japanese isn't good enough for this mystery!

i’d concur. not following instagram, but it’s either syllable reversal (not uncommon in japanese hipster lingo) or »tube«.

On 4/27/2019 at 12:45 PM, bartlebyyphonics said:

4/4

in thanks to @Iron Horse's post earlier down the thread of japanese boot IG accounts, some favorites, whites sj (?), a nice clinch jodphur boot (not seen here before?) and a range of nicely worn redwings

impressed by the #browncore obsessions on the klondike leather (and am guessing older vintage pairs) of some redwing offerings and of the hem to ankle ratio going on in some of these posts... [also: what is #zooclub / #ツーブー倶楽部 - used a hashtag for boot lovers, but any ideas of the zoo connotations?]

i pains me to see morons who think that damaging or destroying quality footwear is fashionable or »cool« … the other ig pictures are ace, though!

[bartlebyyphonics]

19 hours ago, cameosis said:

i’d concur. not following instagram, but it’s either syllable reversal (not uncommon in japanese hipster lingo) or »tube«.

i pains me to see morons who think that damaging or destroying quality footwear is fashionable or »cool« … the other ig pictures are ace, though!

incredible hobnail boots sir!

glad you enjoying the ig choices, but to put the damaged rw shot in context

the interest of it is that shot is the sense that there may be a possible model of rw 2268 that is teacore aka #browncore

[cameosis]

5 hours ago, bartlebyyphonics said:

incredible hobnail boots sir!

glad you enjoying the ig choices, but to put the damaged rw shot in context

the interest of it is that shot is the sense that there may be a possible model of rw 2268 that is teacore aka #browncore

something like this, perhaps?

thanks much about the hobnail boots! the only credit i can take is that i bought them. 

i wasn’t knocking your posts, by the way—my point of criticism was that some people think damaging or destroying the top layer of your leather footwear (of well-made products in particular) is a fashion statement. it’s a waste of resources and disrespectful to the animal that provided it (regardless of how esoteric this may sound).

i was working for a boutique leather shop for several years and was in charge of selecting the hides (quality control)—this could sometimes take an entire day, inspecting them for flaws, cuts, blemishes et al. i do like leather to show scars and the like, but in an organic way, not by such destructive nonsense.

i was involved in: the production of this chair/ottoman set, amongst others

personally, i find the restoration of vintage shoes and boots much more enjoyable as well as sensible (i had posted a few such projects 2-3 years back in this thread, documenting the steps from cleaning  the boots with distilled water · removing dirt and shoe cream/polish by sanding in order to reveal the original color · how to change eyelets yourself · to applying leather grease and finally resoling/cobbler service).

i’ve finally got all my boots in one place and i might be able to take pictures of them by the end of the month to document the state of affairs in 2019.

Edited May 9, 2019 by cameosis

[cameosis]

not mine, but theme-related web find:

[Aries]

55 minutes ago, cameosis said:

i was working for a boutique leather shop for several years and was in charge of selecting the hides (quality control)—this could sometimes take an entire day, inspecting them for flaws, cuts, blemishes et al. i do like leather to show scars and the like, but in an organic way, not by such destructive nonsense.

Fascinating, can we get some insight? What do you look for/what are the signs of really good quality leather, in your opinion?

[cameosis]

@Aries lawyer’s answer, in short: it depends—on the purpose, or product category, rather; on the kind of intended use etc.

given that this is a thread about shoes and boots, i take it that properties of leather used for upholstery aren’t going to be of much interest to most.
keep in mind that despite my previous job mentioned above i neither am nor do i consider myself an authority of any sort on the matter, i just voice personal preference.

i am located in germany; there is a highly recommended website run by a german tanner who also serves as an expert for a regional branch of the german chamber of commerce and industry, called stefan banaszak: lederpedia (in german only).

also a good reference is leder-info (in german, english, french and polish), it includes informative illustrations and videos.
for english speaking folks, leather worker and american leather chemists association provide good info (the latter should be responsive enough to people who inquire by email).

the problem nowadays is that everybody chimes in and speaks their piece online, half truths, misinformation, facts all wonderfully blended together. try separating the ingredients of a smoothie. 
here is a nice example of what i mean:

quite the mix, really! i especially like his interjections of »you know« when he doesn’t know how to specifically address something. (i just watched the first four minutes).

just for clarification: if you want info on leather (or any natural resource/raw material), go to the respective industry or association/union web sites, where there is no hidden agenda or veiled interest in regard to the information shared.

vendors, manufacturers, retailers, and so-called »influenzas« (because this hobby and non-job spreads like a disease) will tell you all kinds of fluffy stuff, because they want to make money, ideally off of you. if you want reliable information, always search for sources that earn their money elswhere, so they have no reason selling you ducksoup.

full grain, yes.
most expensive if required without defects, yes.
better than corrected grain? not so fast.
up to this point, this is all about choices regarding appearance, not durability or material quality.

see @CrashTestBrummie’s informative post on veldtschoen construction boots in the »edward green« thread at style forum (great pictures, and now i know who beat me to the punch on these beva boots when they were offered on ebay!):
comparison of zug leather

edward green is not the cheapest of makers, yet the boots in question sport corrected grain leather (as do my hobnail boots and tecnic shoes above, vintage lotus boots and so forth). the leather is still very good and not worse than full grain. again, different purpose (pattern, uniform appearance), that’s basically it.

good entry on the shoe snob blog: myth buster: corrected grain is always bad

now, split grain … yes.
split grain is a cut corner, and less durable than full grain or corrected grain. you will find countless self-proclaimed fashion aficionados lecturing you on how inferior this layer compared to the former two is, while at the same time drooling over suede and its appearance and softness … but here’s the shocking revelation: split grain is suede.

the reason i mention it is this:

viberg chelsea boot for some € 640, selling for the same price as grain leather, nice one. 

couldn’t find info on whether it’s full grain or corrected grain (which more likely).

not a viberg fan myself, obviously: they’re mostly about marketing hype and price hiking to my mind (i read a few interviews with brett viberg which i quoted in the thread some years ago).

the area from which you take your pick is important, because the characteristics vary depending from which part of the hide you cut your piece.
take a look at the soles of your feet and at the crooks of your arms—very different skin.

for most shoes the shoulder part of the cow hide. belly is too stretchy and uneven, more suited for accessories or upholstery purposes. for hiking and hardcore boots that are supposed to make your feet bleed, the butt (and make them real thick, too). you can influence a lot of the characteristics with tanning techniques as well.

hope that did at least partially answer your question.

add-on: i’ll post pictures of my vintage boots later, only 3 or so cost more than € 100 - € 120. many were not  cared for particularly well. some are pretty stiff, some are still pliable and supple. but all are very much usable and wearable from an upper leather perspective (quite a few of them need resoling).

if you take into consideration that they’re all between 50 to 80 years old, that’s proven good leather—and it needn’t be expensive, either.

of course, priorities were different then, and you didn’t have an entire crowd (myself included) fixated on »heritage« and rugged-looking footwear. the irony is that the original boots and shoes were meant for work and physical labor or had to serve a specific purpose (military, safety gear et al). the aesthetics of stitching lines and sole decoration would have been laughed at, as they are not indicative of or relevant to material quality and functionality.

most of today’s customers just want that look, they have never worked on a ranch, oil platform or in a factory (as a student, i worked in one, very important experience), so they don’t understand the history behind the design and concept of the particular shoe they’re after. or how a chelsea boot originated as a boot for equestrians … funny how times change.

cordovan (as a final point), is a pure luxury item, because it’s made out of workhorses ass cheeks, so there’s not much to begin with. all horse leather can be (and is) used for shoe production, it’s wonderful leather with a distinct surface and, later, patina. do you know how much a square meter costs at a tannery?

€ 40 (in words: forty euros), that’s less than cow leather (depending on the tanning) … i know, because i asked (specifically regarding cordovan), i could’ve literally taken a car load with me … but then again, i don’t wear shoes that big.

Edited May 12, 2019 by cameosis
expansion, further clarification and some ranting

[cameosis]

top row, left to right:
unknown maker, the hobnail boots i recently purchased (1940s - 1950s), great britain
alfred sargent, kelso (2010), great britain
léopold marbot, m-1965 rangers (1974), france
paul valdener, m-1961 rangers (1963), france
unknown maker, m-1957 boots (1963), netherlands
unknown maker (e.n.p.), m-1945 boots (1955), france

middle row, left to right:
norrøna, m-1939 boots (1943), norway (swedish army)
unknown maker, hiking boots (1930s - 1940s), germany
unknown maker, work boots (1930s - 1940s), germany
red wing × j. crew, 4183 (2007), usa
nordsko, m-1939 boots (1942), sweden
true-form boot (john george sears), cc-1941 utility boots (1940s), great britain
lotus, durham (1960s), great britain

bottom row, left to right:
walk-over custom grade, broadway (1940s - 1950s), usa
tecnic, aldershot (1980s), great britain
unknown maker, work boots (1930s - 1940s), germany

Edited May 9, 2019 by cameosis

[mlwdp]

Ugh...I'm seeing a doctor for possible orthotics.  If I need them,  I will have to submit a new feet sheet to wesco with them on.  I have flat feet supposedly.

 

[mlwdp]

My Vibram 2724 half soles came in for my Wesco Boss.  These were extremely hard to find other than overseas.  The retailer I bought from on EBay is the only one that will sell these directly to the customer while others will only sell to shoe repair shops for large orders.

Unfortunately, I have a trip scheduled to a foot doctor that may or may not prescribe orthotics.  If that's the case, I will have to send new fit sheets to everyone that has mine on file.

Vibram 2724 size 12 and 14.  Wesco will determine which one to use once I send them in.

[mlwdp]

If anybody is interested in the link to the seller I bought them from, let me know.

[Iron Horse]

Lofgren natural CXL derby shoes and M-43: