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Shoes that look better with age...


kiya

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Just now, mpukas said:

@mrsmiff - Those M-43 look great. What last are they made on? You guys are killin' it on the boot game lately! mpp

Thanks! More boot heat coming later this year, too.

The M-43 is built on the same Munson last as the original M-43s. If you're not familiar, it's one of the best universal fitting lasts out there. Russell Moc has one of the best breakdowns on it:

Quote

The Munson Army Last has been around since 1912. -Named after its inventor, Edward Luman Munson, A.M., -M.D., Lt. Col. Medial Corps, United States Army, the Munson Army Last was adopted by the U.S. Army to enhance the fit and comfort of military boots issued to soldiers. The Munson Army Last was and is one of the few lasts that ever approached normal feet shape and contour.

It was the view and understanding of Dr. Munson, way back then, that “Weakening of the foot muscles is one of the penalties of civilization, as walking is less and less a factor in locomotion....the introduction of railroads, street cars and automobiles, has materially interfered with foot development.”

In 1912, Dr. Munson wrote, “The construction of shoes for civilians is influenced almost wholly by considerations of fashion and style...the lasts are devised by persons grossly ignorant of, and quite indifferent to, the structure of the human foot and its physiological requirements as a covering.” He went on to say, “The perfect, undeformed foot is found only in children and among savage, non-shoe wearing peoples.” His book, THE SOLDIERS FOOT AND THE MILITARY SHOE, is available on line at http://www.archive.org/stream/soldiersfootmili00munsrich_djvu.txt.

Years ago Russell used to make boots and shoes over the Munson Army Last, but then, like most shoe makers, got away from it as styles dictated narrower, skinny looking boots and shoes. Having revisited the Munson Army Last when designing our special Thula Thula “PH” boot, we are now more convinced than ever that Munson had the right idea as this unique last provides more room in the toe area which translates to greater comfort, better balance and more power to the ground with less physical effort. Professional Hunter, Ivan Carter, who walks 2,000 miles a year and well known outdoorsman, author and writer, Craig Boddington, who spends half of the year on safari, report that the Munson-based Thula Thula “PH”, is the most comfortable boot they have ever worn.

The Munson Army last, in combination with Russell’s true moccasin construction, provides sufficient room for the toes, snugs up the heel and arch, and allows the human foot with its 26 bones and muscles, joints, tendons and ligaments to move as nature intended, affording the freedom of action to the feet to permit every part to function freely. Like any muscle in your body, your foot, if not exercised properly, becomes soft and weak, requiring external support...soft cushy shoes that “baby” our feet. (This might be why we are receiving more and more orders from people who require orthodics.)

Recent tests have proven that runners can run faster, improve balance, coordination and foot strength by working out barefoot. For most people going “barefoot” on a daily basis is not practical. The Munson Army Last allows the same freedom of movement and encourages a heel to toe walking process and is adaptable to most Russell styles except loafers and 5 eyelet oxgfords. In 1948 Earl Shaffer wearing one of our Birdshooter styles made on the Munson last was the first person to hike the Appalachian Trail in one continuous hike.

 

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My Smoke Jumpers came in today!  My "Xenomorphs". I'm a big Aliens sci-fi fan just for the record hence the nickname.

 

specs

6'

Black Bullhide

plain toe

celestic toe

Rolles Top

Cream inside

double black midsole

Vibram half Composite

black eyelets and hooks

 030AB64C-1C05-4AAB-BF61-FAD9C58A8CA0_zps

6EAB5D4A-0345-419F-99A9-8FE745871A2B_zps

EE2F25B6-E4C9-4B7A-97CD-568DE01A1890_zps

A9221500-5ECA-46CA-B0E5-D43223EC8A02_zps

05A66E89-0367-4385-BF94-FA71A4F357AB_zps

329DC379-5877-4BE7-AED5-8927D851BDC7_zps

FD350262-65B7-4B26-B613-77CB70642BB1_zps

i will be putting black nylon laces about 72' into them once they are delivered tomorrow.  Will post updated pics with laces in them.

Wanted a no fuss boot that represented me.  

Edit:the black nylon laces were included inte box.  Will post updated laces pics.

black laces

E6D06881-A577-4CA2-9245-80271800A626_zps

 

C2C77954-A221-4D33-BADE-A2B31765964B_zps

 

Edited by mlwdp
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On 6/8/2017 at 10:52 AM, ShootThePier said:

The triple black looks great.

Thanks!  I was going for a rugged look but with a dark anesthetic while dull, which is why I chose Bullhide over French Calf.  I also wanted a soft leather for break in.

I've been breaking them in lately and they're starting to loosen up, but still tight in the instep.  The right foot is tighter than the left foot, due to a wider right foot over the years shown in the sketching (right foot always played a width role in sizing for shoes).  I am noticing a little bit of the "white bite", which will go away after break in.

Weight wise, they are not too heavy, but not light either. Was looking for a heavier boot as the heaviest I've handled  is my Danner lights, which feel about 2 pounds lighter than these.

These are built like a tank and will need some time to break in.  Going to sparingly break them in at work also which is at a warehouse, that requires usage of ladders and such while on concrete a lot.  I love the arch on these.

I'll post on feet pics of these shortly.  Does anyone have any suggestions for leather care for Bullhide?

On feet:

8FA18E7C-EA8B-4B21-A6CD-DD6BF21EA498_zps

 

Edited by mlwdp
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On 6/10/2017 at 10:28 AM, mlwdp said:

Thanks!  I was going for a rugged look but with a dark anesthetic while dull, which is why I chose Bullhide over French Calf.  I also wanted a soft leather for break in.

I've been breaking them in lately and they're starting to loosen up, but still tight in the instep.  The right foot is tighter than the left foot, due to a wider right foot over the years shown in the sketching (right foot always played a width role in sizing for shoes).  I am noticing a little bit of the "white bite", which will go away after break in.

Weight wise, they are not too heavy, but not light either. Was looking for a heavier boot as the heaviest I've handled  is my Danner lights, which feel about 2 pounds lighter than these.

These are built like a tank and will need some time to break in.  Going to sparingly break them in at work also which is at a warehouse, that requires usage of ladders and such while on concrete a lot.  I love the arch on these.

I'll post on feet pics of these shortly.  Does anyone have any suggestions for leather care for Bullhide?

On feet:

8FA18E7C-EA8B-4B21-A6CD-DD6BF21EA498_zps

 

For me bullhide needs pecards and of course wax to give them a shine they are quite delicate though

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anybody have experience with lone wolf boot sizing? i'm considering picking up a pair of carpenters but am having a tough time ascertaining whether i should size down a half or full size from brannock.

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I'm thinking about getting a pair of White's semi dress and have emailed Kyle at Baker's with my sizing questions... but I'm not sure if he understood me correctly. In a nutshell my problem with most boots is that we only get sold D width here in Germany, so I'm sizing up to get more width - just yesterday I had to return a pair of Chippewa service boots in size 10 D because they hurt my feet. Length-wise I'm only a size 9, but I clearly need an E or EE since even a full size up in D might not be wide enough. So I sent the tracings and measurements and Kyle recommended a 9 C (!!). Is the semi dress last really that wide?

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2 hours ago, Cucoo said:

I'm thinking about getting a pair of White's semi dress and have emailed Kyle at Baker's with my sizing questions... but I'm not sure if he understood me correctly. In a nutshell my problem with most boots is that we only get sold D width here in Germany, so I'm sizing up to get more width - just yesterday I had to return a pair of Chippewa service boots in size 10 D because they hurt my feet. Length-wise I'm only a size 9, but I clearly need an E or EE since even a full size up in D might not be wide enough. So I sent the tracings and measurements and Kyle recommended a 9 C (!!). Is the semi dress last really that wide?

Mmh doesnt make sense to me. I have the same ultra wide hobbit feet troubles, I need a 10.5D or even a 11D on RW IR (which are a quite narrow last) to accomodate my width. I took a gamble with an used pair of White SD's in a 9.5E and they're perhaps my best fitting boots. From what you say it may seem worth to check again your tracings. I think it may have to do more with the way you traced your feet that with Kyle errors though, it's very easy to get tracings wrong (been there done that earlier on with a pair of Santalum). Make sure you have someone else tracing your foot.

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2 hours ago, Cucoo said:

I'm thinking about getting a pair of White's semi dress and have emailed Kyle at Baker's with my sizing questions... but I'm not sure if he understood me correctly. In a nutshell my problem with most boots is that we only get sold D width here in Germany, so I'm sizing up to get more width - just yesterday I had to return a pair of Chippewa service boots in size 10 D because they hurt my feet. Length-wise I'm only a size 9, but I clearly need an E or EE since even a full size up in D might not be wide enough. So I sent the tracings and measurements and Kyle recommended a 9 C (!!). Is the semi dress last really that wide?

I'd strongly suggest you get your feet measured. Is there any shop near you that has a Brannock device? Possibly a Red Wing store? Brannock devices can also be bought from Amazon USA. They have a plastic version that isn't too expensive. Might be worth considering if you purchase boots online frequently or want to get a custom pair that is expensive like White

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Well, I measured the tracing and compared it to a few shoe width charts and it came out to an E - I think it's some kind of misunderstanding. I only emailed the tracings in form of a scanned JPEG, maybe it printed out wrong. I won't make any rash orders on this information, as per Kyle's request I'll have my wife do two new tracings, one standing up and one sitting, and snail-mail them to Baker's.

Or maybe I'll even make the long and arduous journey of 1 hour on the Autobahn to try on some actual pairs at Statement Munich, who knows! :D 

And getting a true Brannock measurement is a great idea!

In other news I just pulled the trigger on the Mister Freedom Trooper Boots. Trying to not get my hopes up, but every sizing advice on those said "half size down" so the 9,5 that was still in stock might just work for me. A buddy from Texas is proxying them for me so it'll take a while until I have them though.

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1 hour ago, Outdoorsman said:

I'd strongly suggest you get your feet measured. Is there any shop near you that has a Brannock device? Possibly a Red Wing store? Brannock devices can also be bought from Amazon USA. They have a plastic version that isn't too expensive. Might be worth considering if you purchase boots online frequently or want to get a custom pair that is expensive like White

From personal experience and perspective, Kyle advised me against using the brannock device as he said it was not as accurate as when sizing for Whites.

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1 hour ago, Cucoo said:

Well, I measured the tracing and compared it to a few shoe width charts and it came out to an E - I think it's some kind of misunderstanding. I only emailed the tracings in form of a scanned JPEG, maybe it printed out wrong. I won't make any rash orders on this information, as per Kyle's request I'll have my wife do two new tracings, one standing up and one sitting, and snail-mail them to Baker's.

Or maybe I'll even make the long and arduous journey of 1 hour on the Autobahn to try on some actual pairs at Statement Munich, who knows! :D 

And getting a true Brannock measurement is a great idea!

In other news I just pulled the trigger on the Mister Freedom Trooper Boots. Trying to not get my hopes up, but every sizing advice on those said "half size down" so the 9,5 that was still in stock might just work for me. A buddy from Texas is proxying them for me so it'll take a while until I have them though.

Are there any authorized Whites dealers near you that can do measurements?

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White's uses a brannock device to measure in their store. although they use it with you sitting down and the device propped up on an incline. They prop it up on something like this. then they take circumference measurements at the ball instep and ankle - then as high up as the boots. $_35.JPG?set_id=880000500F

I would do as kyle says and send in the tracings done by your wife via mail. 

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Bill of stronghold ( waaay back ) sized me at 8.5e like my alden size but after 9 years of wearing my semi dress i feel like in in between  a D and a E width

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On 6/14/2017 at 2:39 PM, Cucoo said:

There's a store 1h away that stocks White's and can also order custom boots. I'll just have to ask them if and what sizes they have available for trying on. Would be the easiest way to do this.

I strongly suggest you bite the bullet and go for a drive so you can try them on.  The whole size by tracing thing was weird to me but I guess it works out in the end.  But if given the opportunity, nothing beats a in person sizing

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1 hour ago, garden gnomes in space said:

LOL, looking to share your break in misery with some fellow sufferers?  

:D

I'm just hoping I'm not the only member of this special club!

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This isn't really anything to do with the shoes themselves, but rather the cardboard boxes they come in... Do you guys keep your shoe boxes, or do you throw them away once you unpack your new shoes? If you keep them, how do you store them (i.e. fold them flat or stack them up)?

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Keep them, it's much easier to store your shoes in their original boxes than in a heap somewhere as I don't have all my shoes in rotation at  the same time. I just stack the boxes in my wardrobe

Edited by mrman
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@Styleforum is currently conducting this year's 1st VibergGMTO__ thought I'd ask here, if any1 is interested in taking part making [this] urban boots design proposal made:

 

                           "SMBH"
Model: 6" SCOUT Boots, 2-tone
Last: 2040
Leather: [Black] Tumbled Horsehide x Roughout Shaft
Construction: GYW StormWelt[Black]
Sole: [Black] Gloxi-cut
Eyelets: 8-Gunmetal
Toebox: Partially Structured toe
 
Notes:
• [Optional] Kilties
• NO Pull-up Strap
• *Indigo or Grey-Dyed midsole
• All-around__ Grey**Tonal Stitching [including 360• welt stitch]
 
'Virtually ALL black, so I want to add some textural/tonal features on these.  The **indigo-dyed midsole will eventually fade to a lot less contrasty blue-grayish tint, i presume ... the Gloxicut, I'm amenable to beige [if there are more interests, as long as it gets a grey midsole].
 
Incidentally, black Camel hide can be a substitute, if tumbled HH is not available. I saw the leather on a pair of derbies IRL @SampleSale ... nice soft high-density leather w/ fine pebble texture.
 

FD6F924A-6611-4443-9B05-D0DE81826B3F.jpg

IMG_2119.JPG

IMG_2120.JPG

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