Shoes that look better with age...

[mlwdp]

Unmarked does the same thing I believe.

[mikecch]

8 hours ago, propellerbeanie said:

Have you guys heard of a channelled insole Goodyear welt? I was on the Viberg website recently and I saw this. I don't know much about shoemaking, so I'm not sure what to think of it. I googled it and Yuketen came up as a company that uses it on some (or all?) of their shoes. 

@mikecch, I'm sure you've heard of this. I'm guessing this construction will be more costly as it is supposedly more labour intensive than typical gemming practices. I wonder how much less likely welts will be prone to failing using this method because I haven't been wearing boots for a long time and can't say from experience.

 

Hey, I've seen similar discussions in the past on Style Forum in the context of bespoke Goodyear welted shoes.

As far as my conversations with cobblers and other shoe enthusiasts go, there does not seem to be much anecdotal or hard evidence to suggest gemming with linen canvas is a less secure method than other methods of attaching the insole to the welt. I've never seen or heard welts 'failing' in real life, and most people talk about gemming vs channel stitch in terms of number of potential resoles (i.e. how many decades), not whether the construct fails within a few years. The ironic thing is that people who would care about this usually have way too many shoes and boots for any of their footwear to reach the final re-build. 

Good on Viberg for wanting to produce a more traditional GYW, but as with anything from manufacturers & shops, a bit of retail spin is to be expected. The GYW market is, after all, much more saturated & competitive compared with their traditional Pacific NW stitch-down market - spend a couple hundred more than a pair of Viberg's and you can have higher end custom or even bespoke - so naturally they'll be wanting to differentiate themselves somehow.

 

Edit: Short version of what I'm typing is that...I wouldn't buy a particular brand based on the lone fact they use channelled insole rather than linen gemming. 

Edited April 26, 2017 by mikecch

[Saisen]

Really enjoyed my Oak Street Bootmakers Indigo Rough-Out Dainite Trench Boot  (Made in USA, Indigo dyed in Fujino, Japan).
Had some lovely indigo fades!
 

[volvo240thebest]

I seem to be blessed with a amazing good luck at finding second hand pairs of White's.

Just received these. Semidress, standard brown dress leather, standard heel heigh, vibram 700 sole. Superb boot alltogether, with a lovely patina. Just the right amount of upswing toe I like.

[tod]

4 hours ago, volvo240thebest said:

I seem to be blessed with a amazing good luck at finding second hand pairs of White's.

Just received these. Semidress, standard brown dress leather, standard heel heigh, vibram 700 sole. Superb boot alltogether, with a lovely patina. Just the right amount of upswing toe I like.

Can i ask how your White's compare size wise with other boots you own..? Thanks!

[volvo240thebest]

vans us 10.5

converse all star us 10 (although it's funny as they mark the same pair of shoes US10/UK10/eur 44 which doesn't make sense, it should be US10/UK9.5/eur 44)

Whites, these are a perfect fit on me and they're a US 9.5 E width

Anyhoo my size usual size is EU 44, very often I size up half size to accomodate my extra width.

 

[mlwdp]

Whites wasn't able to do the last for my size on the Nomad so I redid my order with the Smokejumper at Baker's:

Smoke Jumper Last: Standard Toe Vamp Leather: Black Bull Hide Upper (Shaft) Leather: Black Bull Hide Height: 6" Counter Leather: Black Bull Hide Leather Liner: Cream Toe Cap: No Thanks Toe Cap Leather Color: None Celastic Toe Box: Single Celastic Toe Steel Toe: No Thanks Hardware: Black Eyes & Hooks Top: Rolled Top Midsole: Single Edge: Black Sole: Vibram 700 Lace Design: Plain Toe Wesco Boss was not in the budget like the Nomad was.  Disappointed but I'll live.

Edited May 1, 2017 by mlwdp

[Lukenstein]

[mlwdp]

JUST HOW EXACTLY DID THIS GUY BREAK THESE DOUBLE MIDSOLE SMOKEJUMPERS IN?!?!?

[Rob060]

A lot of squatting on their toes.

[HGS]

I think those are one of the murder weapons in Clue

[edmond]

No celastic toes and maybe wetted the insides and pressed the boot. Down. To attain that turn up

[cameosis]

8 hours ago, mlwdp said:

JUST HOW EXACTLY DID THIS GUY BREAK THESE DOUBLE MIDSOLE SMOKEJUMPERS IN?!?!?

i'd say he didn't -- the boots were resoled to look like truck tires (the soles are brand-new and unworn, whereas the leather is broken in). keep on truckin'.
but he should've been a man and not cut corners. with soles like these, you wear such boots without socks until either your feet or your boots tap out.

[Dr Feelgood]

®SAGARA®

 

[mlwdp]

Question for Nomad and other Whites models owners:

 

Why is it more common to do a half sole composite Vibram 700 in the double midsole style for the Nomad versus a full Vibram 700 in the double midsole for the same boot?  Is it due to flexibility of the sole?  Just curious.

[volvo240thebest]

perhaps too clunky/not flexible enough with double midsole plus full outsole?

I have welt sole + 1 midsole + full outsole on the White's and I think this looks really good.

the semidress have 1 midsole + half soles and will be converted to full outsole when they'll need a resole.

 

[mlwdp]

In case anyone here is waiting for Standard and Strange to replenish heir stock, Wolfpack is selling the RW9268 and RW2268 and they ship to USA/EU.

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/wolfpack/item/2268/

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/wolfpack/item/9268/

[not too tight]

I'm returning a pair of seconds 9268s to sierra trading post. I ordered the last pair size 11D and unfortunately they sent me 10D. They were quite cheap, only $229

[PeterParker]

On 5/2/2017 at 1:18 AM, Lukenstein said:

Are these a custom one-off or a Foot Patrol make-up? Either way, I'd like to know the details on the leather. Looks like horsehide.

[mlwdp]

What my Smokejumpers will look like, except with a Vibram half sole and black eyelets and hooks.  Double midsole and white lining.

Basically, a beastly looking boot!

 

Edited May 9, 2017 by mlwdp

[djanoano]

I love the way white Common Projects Achilles Lows look worn rather than brand new.

[Capsicum Fried Meat]

On 2017-5-9 at 9:17 AM, PeterParker said:

Are these a custom one-off or a Foot Patrol make-up? Either way, I'd like to know the details on the leather. Looks like horsehide.

foot patrol with brown domain I think

[iamsuperflush]

On 5/2/2017 at 0:03 PM, mlwdp said:

I don't get this style. It just looks ugly, exaggerated, and uncomfortable. Maybe I just don't get superdenim's dad-style...

[mlwdp]

Yeah that style is mostly popular with Japanese bikers 

Maybe it serves some purpose with the kickstart?

[BrownMetallic]

'Love indigo__ 'Hate indigo-stained  boots

Viberg Engineers in #8 CXL & Tobacco Chamois, both on unstructured 2005 stitchdowns.

Edited May 11, 2017 by BrownMetallic

[Lukenstein]

On 9 May 2017 at 11:17 AM, PeterParker said:

Are these a custom one-off or a Foot Patrol make-up? Either way, I'd like to know the details on the leather. Looks like horsehide.

 

17 hours ago, Capsicum Fried Meat said:

foot patrol with brown domain I think

These are them. Not sure about the origon of the leather.

[BrownMetallic]

 

Quote

 

.... Still, 'managed to come away w/ a pair of Engineer #8 CXL on 2005 and an old standard 2-tone Lace-to-Toe on 110 [w/c was prolly my best find ever, @200] ... having been to the Viberg NYCsamplesale 3yrs in a row.

 

Edited May 11, 2017 by BrownMetallic

[Lukenstein]

Oops.

Edited May 12, 2017 by Lukenstein

[Lukenstein]

 

On 9 May 2017 at 11:17 AM, PeterParker said:

Are these a custom one-off or a Foot Patrol make-up? Either way, I'd like to know the details on the leather. Looks like horsehide.

To quote Giles....

I spoke to Chris@Wesco.   It is a waxed leather which has a pull up effect when worked (by that he means it lightens when stress  and pressure is applied) .  The finish is waxed which allows it to be treated with polish.  Wesco are over the moon with the leather.  To quote Chris "hands down some of the best leather I have seen in a while"

This page also contains info direct from wesco regarding many types they use....

https://www.boot.com/bwfeatr2.htm

Edited May 12, 2017 by Lukenstein

[tod]

Just got my Rolling Dub Trios back from a resole by Brian the Bootmaker. I admit that the original neocork sole with the leather toe tap was very cool, but it just never quite worked for me -- the triple midsole with the added heel was too high, and the whole thing was a bit slippery. So, decided to get a Vibram wedge sole put on.  (Or as my daughter says, a "squishy" sole.)  Pretty pleased with how it turned out, and it's VERY comfy: