Shoes that look better with age...

[mlwdp]

Haven't seen a false tongue displayed here for a long time.  Perhaps it's an acquired taste?

[Iron Horse]

As long as you don't put it in a glass with water at dinner time.

[mikecch]

13 hours ago, Broark said:

Those are nice, make them all brown and give them a christy sole and I'd be all over those.
Custom makeup through Nick's I'm guessing?

Hey, yeah, customed. 

[Rob060]

7 hours ago, mlwdp said:

Haven't seen a false tongue displayed here for a long time.  Perhaps it's an acquired taste?

My dad had a pair of White's that he used as a climber for his tree service business when I was a little kid and I still remember them. Typical smoke jumpers with vibram 100 sole, super beat up, with a false tongue. For me, a false tongue looks really out of place unless it's on a boot that has that makeup and is being used for that kind of real work, otherwise it's totally unnecessary and overkill for any kind of casual use.

[Iron Horse]

My GF saw a false tongue when I was looking through Lightning's Boots Bible and remarked that it looks very girly, FWIW.

[oomslokop]

i posted this a few pages ago? didn't inspire any tongue-lashing then.

[tod]

 

Hot damn.

On 3/26/2017 at 1:52 AM, mikecch said:

This pair of horsehide shoes arrived a week or so ago, after a 7 month wait, from Nick's.

I took some non-pants-pulling photos just for you guys:

 

Switched laces a couple of times...didn't like the stock black nylon laces.

Settling for flat waxed dark brown for now (top photo).

 

I trimmed the edge of the 'welt' a little and reburnished it, but other than that the shoes are great!

Review in the works.

 

[propellerbeanie]

I was wondering if anyone could help me out with some suggestions for shoes. I'm not very knowledgeable in leather shoes, but I know the general shape and colour that I'm interested in. I'm looking to eventually pick up a pair of shoes that are similar to the Red Wing Postman Oxfords or the Lonewolf Mailmans in black. I'm not really certain on what type of leather I like most, and I'm probably not willing to get a custom pair done at this stage.

What other brands should I be looking into? I'll leave price out of the equation for now, but would like to point out that I'm still a student. Sorry for being so general - it's difficult for me to go out and try on things, so I thought I might hit up you folks first and then go from there.

[mlwdp]

If you can find it, the full grain leather Michael oxfords by Broken Homme.  I have the nubuck leather one.  Tough shoe, basically my everyday go to shoes.

https://www.brokenhomme.com/shop/oxford/michael-black/

Edited March 30, 2017 by mlwdp

[propellerbeanie]

30 minutes ago, mlwdp said:

If you can find it, the full grain leather Michael oxfords by Broken Homme.  I have the nubuck leather one.  Tough shoe, basically my everyday go to shoes.

https://www.brokenhomme.com/shop/oxford/michael-black/

Hmm, thanks for the suggestion, mate. To be honest, I've never considered Broken Homme, and this shape is probably straying away from what I'm looking for. Personally, I think these look like they have a similar design language as a pair of Docs (would those be considered more of a derby?).

I think I'm looking for a smoother (?) leather that can hold a shine on the toe if needed, but not something so matte like the Postmans. The Mailmans look neat, but not too sure I like the Cristy sole instead of the crepe sole. I was also looking at the White's Oxford and I do like the idea of a leather midsole and block heel lol The Rolling Dub Trio Coupen ist pretty neat too.

Urgh, I might have to further narrow down my likes/dislikes... Or I might have to get two different pairs haha!

[mlwdp]

I would say the Santa Rosa oxford but they're pretty much the same as the Broken Homme's except $100 more.

[mikecch]

@propellerbeanie

Hey, what's your budget? 

Seems like you are after a pair of derby shoes, have you looked into British makers yet? Their oxfords are better value for money compared with many American makers and have dressier toes, but the leathers used tend to be thinner by a few oz. 

[propellerbeanie]

Hey @mikecch, I'm probably limiting myself to only a handful of brands now, but I was trying to not go over 500 AUD. I haven't tried/looked into any British brands yet. Gotta say that I would like a pair that has more of a workwear vibe A rounded (but not bulbous) toe is okay as well.

The thing that is drawing me towards a crepe sole is that cushion feeling you get when walking around since I'm still a student and work retail. Maybe I should really consider just getting the Postmans, but thought I would try something new that is a bit higher in quality.

 

[Iron Horse]

How about something from Moto (if it's in your size):

http://www.motostyle.jp/moto/01mens-shoes/mens-shoes.html

[mikecch]

@propellerbeanie

The moto 's that @Iron Horse pointed out are nice. Other cheaper Japanese brands with workwear style derbies would be Brother Bridge, Locking Shoes, etc. 

Also, an 'oxford' shoe from White's or Wesco or Nick's is only about 300 to 400 USD through Baker's. 

A Manito shoe from Nick's in black CXL is about $330 USD, for example. 

Edited March 30, 2017 by mikecch

[propellerbeanie]

@Iron Horse @mikecch

Thanks for the recommendations! Some great options here to keep me busy for now =)

[MellowYellow]

On 26/02/2017 at 4:04 PM, mpukas said:

For reference (for guys that haven't seen these before), here are my SJ's I had rebuilt in early 05/2014. Originally purchased in early 2003. I wore them for many years as "causal" boots, before they got to be too unbearable for every day wear. The original build was full-on black Smoke Jumper spec. The rebuild was 1/4" lowered curved heel, half sole, Quabag heel cap, brown Domain leather, toe cap w/ broguing. 

 

When I first got them back, one of the boot's heels was not compressed evenly, and it was angled very noticeably from outside to inside. Sent them back and they re-did the one boot's heel. Who ever ground the sole edge did a terrible job, and nearly ground off the entire second row of stitching. The top edge of the leather sole was also very rough and uneven. Since Domain leather is very thick and tough, the stitch-down construction produces a very bulbous edge. I wore them walking the dog in the snow a lot, and that abraded off the edge finish. I then hit the with Obenauf's leather oil, which darkened the brown leather significantly. 

 

If I ever get these rebuilt again, I'd have them made 1/2 size longer (currently an 8), at least one size wider wider (currently EE - I'd prefer 3E or 4E), and made with a square lowered heel, close trim (if White's will do it; I've heard they won't do square heel with close trim, but if you order through Baker's they will do it for you afterwards), low or even flat arch, no toe cap, change to all eyelets with no hooks - antique brass no bright brass, and built as a semi-dress boot with either CXL or White's dress leather. AND I'd make sure the outsole stitching and edge grinding is done extra carefully. White's has the ability to do incredible work, my pair wasn't up to par, IMO. Maybe on their semi-dress and finer leather boots they take more care in the work. 

 

Wish I could time travel and read your posts 1 year 6 months before you posted!

In summer of '15, I ordered Smoke Jumpers in black Domain, 1/4" lowered block heel (which they wouldn't do, so it ended up standard height block heel), but the boots weigh like 3 lbs each. I also just wear them casually because there's no way I can move very far or very fast in them. When I get them rebuilt in another 5 years or so, I'll get them to cut some weight out.

[JDelage]

12 hours ago, propellerbeanie said:

I was wondering if anyone could help me out with some suggestions for shoes. I'm not very knowledgeable in leather shoes, but I know the general shape and colour that I'm interested in. I'm looking to eventually pick up a pair of shoes that are similar to the Red Wing Postman Oxfords or the Lonewolf Mailmans in black. I'm not really certain on what type of leather I like most, and I'm probably not willing to get a custom pair done at this stage.

What other brands should I be looking into? I'll leave price out of the equation for now, but would like to point out that I'm still a student. Sorry for being so general - it's difficult for me to go out and try on things, so I thought I might hit up you folks first and then go from there.

Take a look at Paraboot (French makers). They have a wide range of shoes and their quality is top notch: http://en.paraboot.com/mens-collections-of-shoes-Paraboot

Also very good is the Spanish maker Carmina: https://www.carminashoemaker.com/mens-derby-shoes

Edited March 30, 2017 by JDelage

[SuperJackle]

Can anyone speak to astorflex quality and sizing? How's the width? I need something with a bit of room. 

[JDelage]

What would people recommend for boots that (1) one can do some long walks in, (2) appropriate for garden chores, etc, without freaking out about minor scuffs, (3) have speed hooks, (4) are of good quality overall?

(For what it's worth, I happen to have feet that are narrower than average and have a low instep, but any generalist shoe should fit me fine.)

 

Edited March 30, 2017 by JDelage

[mrman]

I would not freak over scuffs if you're wearing any work / service style boots and not real dress boots (Carmina, Crockett&Jones etc). They're going to get scuffed anyway, so the sooner the better. It just adds to the patina, imho. And most scuffs will not be as obvious after vigorous brushing and some conditioner.

Probably not the best for garden work but Paraboot Avoriaz would otherwise fit the bill.

Edited March 30, 2017 by mrman

[JDelage]

The Avoriaz are too typed "mountain hiking boots" for my taste. I actually am asking this question to replace some Paraboot Chenonceau in nubuck which are one size too small. 

Edited March 30, 2017 by JDelage

[Mojique]

I've had my Gaziano and Girling black Oxford brogues since 2008, and they've been refurbished and I think will last forever!(same with my boots!)

[Coolguyzack]

3 hours ago, SuperJackle said:

Can anyone speak to astorflex quality and sizing? How's the width? I need something with a bit of room. 

 My Clark's are a US 11 and my Astorflex are EU 44

The quality is great, I haven't had a problem yet in the months I've owned it. They're much more comfortable than the Clarks too and they both fit my wide-ish feet pretty well.

If anyone knows where they're selling a full grain leather version please let me know!

[Maynard Friedman]

5 hours ago, SuperJackle said:

Can anyone speak to astorflex quality and sizing? How's the width? I need something with a bit of room. 

 

On 16/03/2017 at 4:08 PM, Maynard Friedman said:

Astorflex whisky suede desert boot.

 

 

On 16/03/2017 at 4:36 PM, mpukas said:

@Maynard Friedman - I've been eyeing Astroflex, but I don't know much about them. What can you tell us about them? How is the fit of the forefoot - standard/narrow, or wide? Cheers! mpp

 

On 16/03/2017 at 4:57 PM, Maynard Friedman said:

Volvo is your man, he put me onto them a couple of years ago (when I bought these). They come up big, I had to size down a whole UK size. I have wide feet and they fit comfortably so I would say they are a wide fitting, standard/wide at the least.

 

On 16/03/2017 at 5:52 PM, volvo240thebest said:

Actually Volvo's wife is your man for these! I had worn desert boots only for all my teenage years and I had enough of it to be honest. My wife wears still now desert boots only except on summers. Once she discovered Astor flex she never bought Clark's again. They are a far superior product as far as leather and workmanship are concerned, they're ethically made in Italy and they last much longer than Clark's. She wears the same size as in Clark's but indeed they're a touch wider. The cognac leather ones are particularly nice and the leather ages well.

 

[SuperJackle]

Thanks Maynard. Quite embarrassing having missed such recent posts 

[Mr.Su]

Just got my made to order Imperials from Sagara. Looks fresh with my new momotaros. Can't wait for these to be worn in

[JDelage]

Nice boots.

[harls]

I was unboxing my Indy's earlier and it occurred to me how mediocre the stock laces are. I proceeded to put the first boot on and lo and behold, the lace snapped. Any recommendations on replacements? I'll probably buy the Alden waxed laces from Frans Boone but I'm open to suggestions. I have two pairs so I'll buy replacements for both.

[mlwdp]

My Danners haven't been worn much this year and last year due to hot weather.  I mostly broke these out when the weather is crappy.

I was able to clean off that red clay dirt.  Nasty stuff.

Edited March 31, 2017 by mlwdp