Shoes that look better with age...

[Aries]

Good on you Ben, and thanks again for the advice, I hope they fit too (Vintage Paradise have already shipped, top notch service as always!).

 

Meanwhile, my Real McCoy N-1s have hit 2 years, still my favourite fitting boot, like a glove.

[garden gnomes in space]

^^love that hairy rough out (Maynard, what say you about that?!)

[Maynard Friedman]

^ nothing wrong with a penchant for that 70s vibe GGiS!

[itsbenhere]

How much of a good boot do you guys think lies in the construction of the sole/welt and attaching the upper to it?

It almost seems like, as long as the leather is good, it doesn't really matter how it's attached since you can say give it to Takeshi and he could pimp it out, right? Or am I missing something that gives a big advantage to something that was initially constructed really well?

[coleslawyum]

There are many ways to attach a sole to an upper, and its very debatable which way is better. In terms of craftsmanship, any shoe that is hand welted whether it be a storm welt, Norwegian welt etc. takes a certain amount of skill and training. Does your feet feel a difference? Probably not. A true bespoke shoe will give you the best fit because the last is created from the shape of your feet.

 

I tend to shy away from Blake construction, because the amount of repairs that can be done are limited, but a good cobbler can work magic on anything. I have boots from the 1950s that still hold up even after repairs, and they happen to be welted shoes.

 

Speaking of Takashi-San pimping things out, here is a recent repair. Wolverine 744LTD.

 

[itsbenhere]

Yep, those boots are exactly what I had in mind. A long way down the line, I'll probably get them resoled just like that. So, those are now considered handwelted? I know very little about shoe construction, other than that that type of welt looks the best to me, I like it better than stitchdown where the upper is flared out, and also dig how the stitching goes around the entirety of the boot.

 

His resole on your Alden "orthopedic" boots also makes them look a million times better.

[edmond]

I want a rios from okkuunmnn

[coleslawyum]

I want a rios from okkuunmnn

 

He'll sell them to you for mucho $$$$$$$$$$$$$

[coleslawyum]

Yep, those boots are exactly what I had in mind. A long way down the line, I'll probably get them resoled just like that. So, those are now considered handwelted? I know very little about shoe construction, other than that that type of welt looks the best to me, I like it better than stitchdown where the upper is flared out, and also dig how the stitching goes around the entirety of the boot.

 

His resole on your Alden "orthopedic" boots also makes them look a million times better.

 

Thanks!

 

These are hand welted, but Takeshi-san recently acquired a Goodyear Welting and Gemming machine. He uses this mostly for Red Wing repairs, and utilizes authentic Red Wing Soles. He does this to basically to replicate the Red Wing construction, and also to cut down on turnaround time. So if you want your pair of Red Wings to have the same exact sole as the original, he can now replicate it.

 

Hand welting is tedious and time consuming because it requires the cobbler to use a awl to poke a hole through the welt, upper and insole and thread it by hand to attach the welt. A Goodyear welting machine does it in seconds.

 

Stitch down construction is great for work boots because it makes them more water resistant, and is definitely more for rugged use. A 360 welt is also good for work boots, because the entire mid-sole is stitched to the welt. A half welt looks more elegant for dress shoes, and the waist and heel are held by metal nails or wooden pegs.

 

Take a look at how beautiful Bestetti pegs the waist.

 

 

The waist can also be sewn to the insole.

 

 

And the final results, including the hidden channel cut into the outsole to hide the stitching.

 

[Max Power]

 

My first from the Trickers sale. Got the same in oxblood coming in. I needed something more formal for suits and the office and as usual Trickers offers great quality.

[Dr Feelgood]

SAGARA"COMBATANT"NATURAL VEGTAN

3MONTH AND STILL VIRGIN

Edited June 29, 2016 by Dr Feelgood

[Max Power]

My Tricker's collection - with the latest addition of the burgundy pair. I never thought I'd like formal shoes that much. My favorite are still the ones on the far left, though. They look great paired with faded jeans like the WH.

[Frost]

They look fantastic Max. Tricker's, what else does one need, really?

[Iron Horse]

Tricker's, what else does one need, really?

 

Boots?

 

[Sugar Mountain]

They make pretty impressive country boots too although I'd concede that they are an acquired taste and not for everyone. I really like my C-shade Keswicks, which I tend to wear for work when I need to dress up a pair of jeans a little. They're solid AF. Next purchase from Trickers will be the Woodstock in Espresso at some point.

[volvo240thebest]

Trickers should be up on this thread more often, just mainly because they are the epytome of "shoes that look better with age".

I have only one pair of Trickers, worn for 16 years, three resoles so far, they still look absolutely fantastic.

I'd love to add a pair of Tricker's Eaton to the collection.

[Max Power]

Damn, I wanted to rep you. I wholeheartly agree.

[volvo240thebest]

nae bother Max!

Edited June 30, 2016 by volvo240thebest

[garden gnomes in space]

post a pic Volvo.  I love my Trickers.  Im not as into the uber brogueing like on the Stow as I once was, but my Eton's are a bit toned down.  Im really eyeballing the black cordovan Trickers x Superdenim but I have no real need for them at the moment

[volvo240thebest]

I've posted many already, i have no significant update now..

here's the last one I took, a few months ago

[Niro]

post a pic Volvo.  I love my Trickers.  Im not as into the uber brogueing like on the Stow as I once was, but my Eton's are a bit toned down.  Im really eyeballing the black cordovan Trickers x Superdenim but I have no real need for them at the moment

 

I have been looking at those for a while, but I found the trickers boot in normal leather (which I bought), so i've decided to stay with my decision of the first high end cordovan boots I buy will be vibergs

[Dr Feelgood]

the triks look good mr

[BrownMetallic]

'Used to have apprehensions taking on Viberg 1035 due to fEEt size

As it turns out, this particular last is the most versatile across [all?] of Vibergdom, IMO. The shape of the toe allows more forefoot access. A great feature for true E-E+ folks like me.

Though not as sleek as 2030, 1035 unstructured & partially structured has lower profile toe ...even the fully structured toe is still lower, as compared to 2040/2045/110/310. As such, aesthetics work both, on more casual make ups, as well as on rugged, streetstyle, work-inspired context ... like the Boondockers. Of course, for [real] outdoorsy, off-road, or work-related activities, I still would much prefer the comfort of a 110 or 2045 ... just saying

Toe-to-toe comparison between the 2005 1st & 2nd versus the 1035: 2005s are unstructured & 1035s are partially structured.

Hopper in Tobbaco Chamois, Loden Green, Ebony Latigo, Black Pit Tanned Bison, & Marine Tan Latigo

Edited July 1, 2016 by BrownMetallic

[Aries]

Toys McCoy Surveyors arrived, thanks for the push Ben, the sizing is spot on (though the thick leather lip is rubbing the top of my ankles a bit)!

[Aries]

Forgot to add a shot of the incredible craftsmanship from below, mea culpa:

[garden gnomes in space]

the stitching quality on those puts most Whites (and maaany Vibergs) to shame!

[itsbenhere]

they look awesome! really glad I could help, and that they fit. I wish mine had that backstitching!

 

I think Toys used to make some of the nicest engineers too, shame they changed the style and leather.

[Iron Horse]

they look awesome! really glad I could help, and that they fit. I wish mine had that backstitching!

 

I think Toys used to make some of the nicest engineers too, shame they changed the style and leather.

 

New ones still look good to my eyes (more Chippewa, less Buco), but yes it's a shame they went from horsehide to steerhide:

 

[Aries]

For sure GGIS. I love my Alden and Viberg boots yet I've never seen such a level of flawless, clean construction as on these. Not a stitch out of place.

[itsbenhere]

IH, still beautiful for sure, just not as unique a silhouette IMO. Same reason why I'm not in love with the lofgrens (look similar to me), I prefer the shape of the buco or something super elegant like CLINCH.

 

Horse to steer though... that's unacceptable!