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aleopold

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^ I've been to combat three times already and am gearing up for another round. My problem has always been bringing too big a pack, which makes me bring too much in my carry on. Now that I am familiar with leather crafting I'd like to perhaps make a carry on bag like yours that will fit the bare essentials with their own compartments/pockets, etc.

Beside just purchasing a heavyweight leather (how heavy?), are there liners or support products I need to buy?

Any info would be super helpful and appreciated.

Cheers!!!

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^ I've been to combat three times already and am gearing up for another round. My problem has always been bringing too big a pack, which makes me bring too much in my carry on. Now that I am familiar with leather crafting I'd like to perhaps make a carry on bag like yours that will fit the bare essentials with their own compartments/pockets, etc.

Beside just purchasing a heavyweight leather (how heavy?), are there liners or support products I need to buy?

Any info would be super helpful and appreciated.

Cheers!!!

Ahh.. I know whatcha mean. I used to have an acute case of Packrat Syndrome too...! And it did help when i made me a Vegetable Tanned Satchel. It gave me an option to travel light..!

Anyways, don't fret. This bags requires really little. And the fact that you are using pretty heavyweight leather(I'll check the oz-age for you when i get back home.) means you wouldn't need a stiffener.

All you need is leather. Thread. Needles. An awl or a punch. Buckles. Two rectangular metal loops for the handle. If you want, you can get another two more for the straps. And i'd suggest you getting a few Burr Rivets and reinforce the stress points. Would make your bag pretty much indestructable.

;)

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Hmm... I not sure how tough sinew is to stitch with as I've only ever use artificial sinew, but with all due respect, i don't think its gonna take 3 months to make a bag...

Oh. I thought you were making a jacket for some reason (probably because heritage means, to me, braintan with real sinew). Sinew, when in it's natural state, has to be soaked, stretched, and split into threads. It seems like a pain. I respect your approach though. Good luck with the project!

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awesome beatle, wallet is almost black :eek:

sorry for the x-post from edc thread but the pic shows the color of my kamida wallet pretty good I reckon...

IMG_1232.jpg

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you bring 3 knife at a time??

nah mostly I carry 2, the shrimp is really only good for opening packages, letters etc...

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^ How interesting!

Here's an excerpt from a book published in 1872, how folks used to care for leather (usually very high quality veg. tanned stuff by today's standards):

"Preservation of Leather. The extreme heat to which most men and women expose boots and shoes during winter deprives leather of its vitality, rendering it liable to break and crack. Patent leather particularly is often destroyed in this manner. “When leather becomes so warm as to give off the smell of leather, it is singed. Next to the singeing caused by fire heat, is the heat and dampness caused by the covering of rubber. Close rubber shoes destroy the strength of leather. The practice of washing harness in warm water and with soap is very damaging. If a coat of oil is put on immediately after washiiig, the damage is repaired. No harness is ever so soiled that a damp sponge will not remove the dirt; but, even when the sponge is applied, it is always useful to add a slight coat of oil by the use of another sponge. All varnishes, and all blacking containing the properties of varnish should be avoided. Ignorant and indolent hostlers are apt to use such substances on their harness as will give the most immediate effect, and these, as a general thing, are most destructive to the leather.

To Restore the Lustre of Leather. “When harness loses its lustre and turns brown, which almost any leather will do after long exposure to the air, the harness should be given a new coat of grain black. Before using this grain black, the grain surface should be well washed with potash water until all the grease is killed, and after the application of the grain black, oil and tallow should be applied to the surface. This will not only fasten the color, but make the leather flexible. Harness which is grained can be cleaned with kerosene or spirits of turpentine.

To Restore Softness to Leather. To restore the softness and pliancy of leather which has become hard by having been wet, apply neat’s foot oil and rub it in. Castor oil is a good substitute for neat’s foot oil for softening leather belts, boots and harness. But the best oil for harness, is 1 quart neat’s foot oli, 4 ounces beef’s tallow, and 3 table-spoonfuls lampblack; add 4 ounces bees’ wax for use in summer weather."

"To Make Boots Waterproof. Beef tallow, 4 ounces; resin, 1 ounce; bees’ wax, 1 ounce; melt together. Add, when cold, a quantity of neat’s foot oil equal to the mass. Apply with a rag, warming the boots before a lire, to the soles as well as uppers, and rub in well with the hand. Two applications will make the boots thoroughly waterproof and still keep them soft. We, however, do not approve of such preparations, as the feet generally perspire more than any other portions of the body, and any waterproof preparations applied to boots prevent the perspiration from escaping, and keep the feet wet and cold. The New England fishermen preserve their boots waterproof by this method, which, it is said, has been in use among them above 100 years.

To Make Boots Water-Tight. In a pint of best winter-strained lard oil, dissolve a piece of paraffine the size of a hickory nut, aiding the solution with a gentle heat, say 130° or 140° Fahr. The readiest way to get pure paraffine is to take a piece of paraffine candle. Rub this solution on your boots about once a month ; they can be blacked in the meantime. If the oil should make the leather too stiff, decrease the proportion of paraffine, and vice versa. A gentleman who has tried this says: – I have used this for 8 years past, and boots have lasted me two winters, the uppers always remaining soft, and never cracking. I have tried bees’ wax, resin, tar, etc., but never found any other preparation half so good.

Sportsmen’s Waterproof Composition for Boots. Dissolve by heat 1 ounce pure bottle India-rubber shavings in 1 quart neat’s foot oil, and add 2 ounces tallow. This makes a fine waterproof composition for boots, and is recommended to sportsmen."

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New belt from Hollows!

Fast shipping (had it made and delivered within the week), and took care of my sizing error without any hassle - sent me the correct size free of charge. Wonderful service

6028342214_bd85e670d6_z.jpg

6028341184_fa9d2b2cb8_z.jpg

Great belt, love the feel and the burnish on it. Very reasonable price as well.

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