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Shoes that look better with age...


mizanation

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Thanks for the information Rodeo Bill!

They're going to do more of the Sebago-style boat shoes that Leather Soul got in a while ago, which are made in an old factory that Alden bought up just when it was about to go bust.

I wonder if it would be possible to do a special run of shell cordovan boat shoes :)

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雖然不是同樣功能的鞋,但是難得有機會

就來比較一下製作上注重細節的差異吧

左邊的Red Wing 2218已經穿著使用超過十年

右邊的White's North West 是全新未使用品

本次比較的重點放在我自己平時注重的幾項細節

其他各部位暫時忽略

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這是White's North West 鞋頭部位鞋身與鞋底的雙線車縫

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這張則是Red Wing 2218鞋頭部位鞋身與鞋底的單線車縫

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White's North West 鞋身側面外部前後片接合的車縫與鞋底的處理

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值得注意的是White's North West 在鞋身與鞋底縫合只有前半段鞋面的皮革直接外拉縫在鞋底上

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Red Wing 2218 鞋身側面外部前後片接合的車縫與鞋底的處理

整圈都是以延條的接合將鞋身與鞋底縫合

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這塊在腳後跟的特殊處理的皮革是我個人最愛的部份因為這裡超耐磨

也是其他任何品牌鞋子比不上的地方

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White's North West 後根的處理

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Red Wing 2218 後根的處理

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I desire to get another pair of Alden boots motivated me to go to two shop today.

My first stop was Moulded Shoe. The only other customers here when I went were over 70 year old. There was two salesmen, the one helping me out was very helpful. He got a total of 6 different Alden boots for me to try on, including 2 on the modified last. I have to say the modified last looks pretty funny (kidney bean shaped as someone said earlier). It was pretty comfortable though. And strangely, looked pretty good with my APC NS, they were #8 shell cordovan. I also did tried on 3 brown boots with the thick white soles, similar to the red wings just posted above. I was actually pretty tempted to buy those. I have a lot to think about after leaving that place. However, since I really wanted to try on the Indy boot but they didn't have it in my size, I walked over to Alden which was only 5 blocks away. Unfortunately they didn't have the size I was looking for (8 C) but I did try on a pair of cordovan wingtip boots that were slightly too long. Once again, they were really cool there and they told me they'd call me to let me know when the shoes I was looking for may be in stock. On another note I was looking for a watch straps recently and noticed that they had some at the Alden store in shell cordovan, but for $125, it was out of my budget. Anyways it's always good to see what's out there. cheers

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so here's what I came away with after my chat to Nate Humble:

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Norwegian toe boot on the Barrie Last, in #8 Cordovan, full reverse welt, eyelets and speedhooks, leather heel tab, commando sole. I really think they;'re beautiful:)

Nate told me that this toe design was first created by a Norwegian shoemaker working in London (I don;t know when), and it had all but disappeared until Alden started reproducing it. This boot is exclusive to Tassels in Hong Kong. The twin stitching is just decorative- it's not a seam or anything, but it does have the effect of making the toe box seem more angular (straight sides/flat top). I went to the movies last night wearing them, and spent half the time watching the relflected light from the screen bouncing off the flat top surface of the cordovan:rolleyes: (I think I need help).

One thing that I forgot to mention in my previous post. I know Edmond, I, and some other people have been concerned about the corner of the quarters of our Alden boots coming unstitched (it's happened slightly on my AF53s). I asked Nate about this, and here's how he explained it: Alden make their shoes in batches of 12 pairs, and each batch isn't necessarily the same leather/design. That particular spot on a shoe/boot made from heavier leather (ie cordovan) can get very thick, and needs a different tension on the sewing machine from the rest of the shoe. If they don;t change the tension then the threads can snap.

He's had this mentioned to him a few times, and they;'re now making sure they adjust the tension with every new leather, but if we have a pair where this hasnt been accounted for and it breaks, he said we should return it to the shop (in my case Adam at AofC) for an Alden repair. Personally I'm still not sure I'll bother, altough I might email Adam to see what he says. It seems like a pretty minor thing, and unless Alden are prepared to pay shipping from UK to US then it would be much cheaper for me to take it down to a local cobbler (I've been quioted 5pounds from a good place).

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Thanks

I am a perfect UK 81/2 in Trickers

Simon

in that case you should be the same size as me:)

I don't own any Trickers, but the ones I've tried on I've been an 81/2, in whatever their standard width fitting is (probably D?) and that's my size in most of the JermynSt-style UK brands. You have to bear in mind the last of the shoes you're after in Alden- they fit pretty differently. I'm 91/2D on Truebalance (Indie, AF53), 91/2E on Leydon (slightly narrower last so I sized up a width), and 9D on Barrie (larger all round, so I sized down 1/2 a size.

I hope that;s helpful, but having said it all, I really think if at all possible you should try some on before you buy a pair. Browns on South Molton St in London occasionally stock Aldens, and even if it;s a different style or last, at least you;d have a basis to work from when you order from another Alden dealer. I tried on Alden shoes in Hong Kong before ordering different ones from Alden of Carmel... the final thing to say is if you do order a pair online, try them on very carefully to see if they fit ok. Once the tops are creased up and the soles are scratched (happens very quickly) you won't be able to exchange them.

good luck!

edit- by the way thanks everyone for the kind words about the norwegian boots! I'm really enjoying them :)

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Not really much of a fashion boot as these are my true work boots, but I was happy with reconditioning them a bit. They're Red Wing steel toes, have had them for about 5 years and were worn hard with a lot of abuse. Decided it was time to give them a little attention and wanted to use some of my products before I used anything on my iron rangers

I just cleaned them with a hose, then a brush with a drop or two of dish soap. Let them dry for a day and fixed a split in the sole with Shoe Goo, used red wing natur-seal waterproof/conditioner, let them dry, then oiled them with red wing mink oil. Turn out pretty well for a pair of well used boots.

Before:

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After cleaning: (toes were very light)

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After waterproofing/conditioning:

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After mink oil:

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With crappy levi's:

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