Shoes that look better with age...

[xrevengex]

the picture quality isn't so great. i decided to get my carmina double monks re-soled with a double leather sole. took them to b nelson in nyc. they did great work. expensive, but worth it in my opion. the first picture is probably the closest to the true color. i'm not even close to even a decent photographer.

[garden gnomes in space]

nice looking shoes. is that last pic post-resole?

[madstaxbro]

Really love the horned tongue on these, especially the robust triple stitching.

[Mich]

Can anyone with some knowledge on leather and their different weights shed some light on the fact if less heavy leather also automatically means lesser quality?

I'm asking this because usually, and strangely when you think of it, there are no specs at all given on leather weight of a boot.

While on the by us much coveted denim, and shirts and jackets for that matter, the weight is usually mentioned.

I read in an interview with John Lofgren that the upcoming Lofgren engineers will be made using Horween CXL with a weight inbetween 2.3 to 2.6 oz.

What's the usual weight of some high end engineer boots we're all familiar with, anyone knows this?

I heard somewhere inbetween 5 to 9 oz.

Edited March 7, 2012 by Mich

[Crat]

the picture quality isn't so great. i decided to get my carmina double monks re-soled with a double leather sole. took them to b nelson in nyc. they did great work. expensive, but worth it in my opion. the first picture is probably the closest to the true color. i'm not even close to even a decent photographer.

Nice, looks like he did a decent job. Rendenbach (JR) soles are some of the best you can get. I hope the stitching was done through the original holes?

[entertainment]

having seen the C&J order book backlogs in person last weekend, i can say it's safe to assume that they're not out-sourcing their production...

forgot to share this, a little snap of the shop floor at the c&j factory:

CTB Glad to hear that C&J are prosperous or at least very busy. Here are my approximately six year old monks:

As you say, the quality of the hides is extremely high.

But my real reason for posting is that I wonder how the other Northampton shoes manufacturers are doing. Did you get a sense during your visit there?

Edited March 6, 2012 by entertainment

[rayw44]

I just got a response from Zip about the boots after hearing some questions you guys had.

They use 7-8 oz leather for all their engineers, and you can also get the flat toe shape that I have but have a celastic reinforcement put in as well. So it would be the same shape but with some toe protection if you need it.

[CrashTestBrummie]

But my real reason for posting is that I wonder how the other Northampton shoes manufacturers are doing. Did you get a sense during your visit there?

I only really spoke to people at C&J and as per my earlier post, they had very full order books. A large proportion of the orders were re-branded stuff for overseas and own brand stuff for both here and foreign climes.

Couldn't comment on Lobb, but the Church's factory shop was extremely busy and as far as I'm aware they're massive sellers abroad - I think their tried-and-tested tagline of 'Famous English Shoes' has served them well over the years.

I also found out that Church's will, if they have excess skins at the end of a production run, make them up into perfect shoes and sell them at discounted prices at their outlets and the factory shop. Explains why I couldn't find anything wrong with a lot of the pairs I handled.

Tricker's would collaborate with their own sister if it would win them internet points at the moment, or so it seems, and business has got to be good although the quality might not be what it used to be - and I'm not alone in thinking this. Their MTO programme is good for people (including me) who can't afford bespoke but want something personal, so more power to their elbow.

Edward Green thrive off their international business, both East and West, as do C&J.

Interesting to note though that both Edward Green and C&J haven't always been what they are today: some of C&J's offerings from decades past look decidely faddish if not downright ugly; Edward Green produced less elegant (but very well-made) models previously, like the Woodbridge brogues I posted a while ago and the veldtschoen boot of mine that was of unknown make for some time.

But I digress...nice monks, by the way!

[Mich]

I just got a response from Zip about the boots after hearing some questions you guys had.

They use 7-8 oz leather for all their engineers, and you can also get the flat toe shape that I have but have a celastic reinforcement put in as well. So it would be the same shape but with some toe protection if you need it.

Interesting and good to know, pretty heavy leather so it seems, are they stiff out of the box?

I would prefer no reinforcement at all, but i can imagine someone wanting the low toe profile with some protection, great that he offers both options.

How long did you have to wait for them being build?

Edited March 6, 2012 by Mich

[rayw44]

Super stiff, much like my wescos were, but they are breaking in relatively quickly. They hurt my shins, so I'm wearing higher socks until they soften up.

The wait time was a little under a month, which was during the time he was at Inspiration and spent some time in Japan. So all in all not too bad, and less than the time wesco or viberg take.

[indigoeagle]

Super stiff, much like my wescos were, but they are breaking in relatively quickly. They hurt my shins, so I'm wearing higher socks until they soften up.

The wait time was a little under a month, which was during the time he was at Inspiration and spent some time in Japan. So all in all not too bad, and less than the time wesco or viberg take.

Could you tell us the size differences of your respective boots for future reference? It would be helpful if you could also compare with for example Red Wings.

It seems that the Road Champs fit large, then come the RRL, and the Santa Rosas fit the smallest.

The Viberg apparently fit true to size. One just has to note that they use the UK system.

I couldn't find any info on the Wesco's.

[rayw44]

Check the boots/shoe sizing thread for more info.

I'll post my engineer sizes there.

[indigoeagle]

Check the boots/shoe sizing thread for more info.

I'll post my engineer sizes there.

Thanks, much appreciated.

[FACE]

My first "true" boot investment. I can stop destroying my Clarks DB now.

They currently have nothing on them. Should I add a clear polish?

Wolverine 1000 Mile.

[smittybat]

^ Not needed

[madstaxbro]

If you're going to walk around a bunch it wouldn't hurt to rub a little creme in before you start them in a polish rotation.

[happinessknox]

I got a pair of 1000 miles a couple of months ago (admittedly, in black not brown). The only thing I've done is applied Obenauf's LP to them. I've got a couple of scratches that go through the black portion of the leather into it's natural brown. Should I just cover this up with some black polish? Is that typical treatment for black chromexcel or what?

[y7bbb6]

Put a set of Christys on my 8m/o 405.

I'm in uni, and I couldn't deal with the block heel in classrooms and libraries...

[duggabax]

^^ block heel like a normal rw heel? why was that an issue in libraries and classrooms? i guess I'm just curious as to what issues you were having because I wore my 9011s all through 1st and 2nd year with the original heel and no issues.

[y7bbb6]

^^ block heel like a normal rw heel? why was that an issue in libraries and classrooms? i guess I'm just curious as to what issues you were having because I wore my 9011s all through 1st and 2nd year with the original heel and no issues.

Not sure how loud the GT heel is, but the original indy heel sure makes one's presence known.

[Noodle36]

My fathers Florsheim Imperial Brogue. They are about 40 yrs old and have had some small repairs to the inner leather lining. According to my Dad these were made in Canada. Apparently Florsheim Canada was a completely seperate company at the time he purchased these. Not sure as my cursory search only came up with a number of other imperials for sale etc.

[Noodle36]

Also I have a pair of Danners for sale. My Dad ordered these and they proved to be too large. He has worn them about 4 times total.

I might post them in the Sales/Deals thread but think this is the thread.

[Noodle36]

Sorry jumped the gun on posting that. PM me if you are interested. Looking for $150.00.

[garden gnomes in space]

Anyone have any pics or experience with worn in black chromexcel ? Im debating if this the leather i want to use on my White's, but I have not been able to find anything online showing how it ages/wears. Back in the middle of this thread, Demonito was saying he wore his black chromexcel boots out prematurely. No pic, so I dont know if this is jive talk or serious.

[Megatron1505]

Ed (Demonito) says that CXL is awful, and doesn't understand why anyone would choose it over dress or smooth leather, which he says ages much better.

Personally I have no experience of CXL yet (my Whites oxfords are being made from CXL, and I felt the wrath of Ed), but I'll let you know my impressions from new.

[rayw44]

^check the pics here and in the rrl thread of deluxestylings studded rrl engineers.

They are black cxl and they are quite well broken in.

[baldy]

Ed (Demonito) says that CXL is awful, and doesn't understand why anyone would choose it over dress or smooth leather, which he says ages much better.

Personally I have no experience of CXL yet (my Whites oxfords are being made from CXL, and I felt the wrath of Ed), but I'll let you know my impressions from new.

My White's oxfords are made with CXL as well and they definitely don't feel like a very substantial shoe... not a bad thing though, they are quite pliable and comfortable. They are holding up well though, no complaints on the toughness of the leather, they are showing little wear on them after having owned them for maybe 2 years

[Megatron1505]

To be honest that is exactly what I wanted to hear. I chose CXL because the Oxfords are for summer wear, so I don't really want a substantial shoe. I have my SD's and Smoke Jumpers for that use.

Would you be able to post some pictures of your Oxfords when you get time please?

[wgmds]

i mean, it all depends. they're definitely not a super difficult break in time shoe, but are you actually working in construction or whatever? if not, the leather isn't going to matter much more than aesthetics. my indys are looking pretty good and worn after living in them for a while, but they're also a thin, canvas lined leather. cxl is no 1/8 inch thick leather, but it's nice. just remember, ed's a construction worker (i'm not trivializing his high end/ more contractor side of his profession or whatever) and he's beating up his shoes and if you're just a casual wearer, then it's pretty much up to taste. go for the smooth or dress if you're concerned.

Edited March 8, 2012 by wgmds

[ranonranonarat]

megatron, i have a pair of BH's in black CXL that are worn in. i purchased them from davi and he wore them in a bit as i have too. i would say that they ding slightly easier but i dont think they are very much different from dress or smooth leather. not really sure by the meaning of a substantial shoe but hey, they are by far my favourite pair of boots to date. i can get pictures for you tomorrow in the morning if you would like. some parts of the CXL has worn in nicely to show a slight hint of dark brown.

Edited March 8, 2012 by ranonranonarat