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Levi's Vintage Clothing


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Dr.Heech, you've bought your Canes in Raw? Old or new version? The old version is shrink-to-tagged size, I hope you know! And yeah, LVC-sizing is pretty weird. I bought my 44's and my 47's in my true size (which is 32" waist=32" tagged, 47's 33" tagged cuz' the new stock runs 1" smaller than tagged). This works perfect for me, the fit is awesome on both pairs postsoaked.

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Dr.Heech, you've bought your Canes in Raw? Old or new version? The old version is shrink-to-tagged size, I hope you know! And yeah, LVC-sizing is pretty weird. I bought my 44's and my 47's in my true size (which is 32" waist=32" tagged, 47's 33" tagged cuz' the new stock runs 1" smaller than tagged). This works perfect for me, the fit is awesome on both pairs postsoaked.

Yeah, bought them raw (tagged 34/34, measured 34/34) - seller said they would shrink 1" in the leg and waist. But I hardly wash my jeans anyway.

(EDIT).. Sorry, forgot - they're the ones with a red tab/pocket arcs, like these

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130354412359&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

.

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For the life of me, I can't figure out why it is so hard for LVC to get the sizing right. At the current sizing scheme, I need something like a 30x36, which I don't even think they make. It's so retarded that I can't even wear them, which is a shame. That's probably the only brand of jeans I can say that about.

i fucking hate it too. my jeans were a 30x34, now theyre not even a 32. i can not stand it, because i dont like to sag my jeans and i also like to cuff them and i now started wearing indy's so it looks really stupid. but have you check e-levi.jp ? they make their raw LVC in length 36 :D

http://www.e-levi.jp/shop/mens/item/list/category_id/21

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Electrum

Mate - I would +Rep you but cant. Your mini-rants about Lvc summise what lurks in the back of my mind everytime I think : I'll buy that 19__ 501, maybe lvc have got it right this time (?)

...knowing full well they haven't

( Looking forward to getting my SC 47's)

.

No rep expected Doc for stating the obvious, thanks though.

For around $200 a pair, I for one can live with historically inaccurate details here and there, like poly core thread, wrong pocket size, etc. You mention Sugar Cane, hell I can call History Preservation anytime, order any one of their selections in my size without the need to beg them for measurements or talking to a CSR who doesn't know or care what I'm talking about, pay for it and have it in a couple of days without worrying whether they'll fit or not. On the other hand, it's taken me almost 3 grueling years to acquire just 2 pair of LVC jeans and I got those on ebay. All of the other LVC purchases I've made directly from Levi's had to be sent back for wrong size or defects. I don't want SC, I want cool and unique LVC models like the '01, 201, '15 and 333, but can't have them because of Levi's apparent mismanagement. If LS&Co will ever get their heads out of their ass, they'd realize that they can sell a helluva lot more LVC products if they didn't make it almost impossible for a broad range of their customer base to buy them. Perhaps the new XX Division will turn this ship around.

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I guess I was lucky that I my first pair of LVC fit perfectly!

After reading the last coupla pages though I can see why buying LVC is so difficult, with the change of factory etc, not to mention the different cuts are not consistent either. I do hope LVC sort it out before i buy my next pair!

Also how does the quality of LVC compare with brands such as SC and warehouse...?

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No rep expected Doc for stating the obvious, thanks though.

For around $200 a pair, I for one can live with historically inaccurate details here and there, like poly core thread, wrong pocket size, etc. You mention Sugar Cane, hell I can call History Preservation anytime, order any one of their selections in my size without the need to beg them for measurements or talking to a CSR who doesn't know or care what I'm talking about, pay for it and have it in a couple of days without worrying whether they'll fit or not. On the other hand, it's taken me almost 3 grueling years to acquire just 2 pair of LVC jeans and I got those on ebay. All of the other LVC purchases I've made directly from Levi's had to be sent back for wrong size or defects. I don't want SC, I want cool and unique LVC models like the '01, 201, '15 and 333, but can't have them because of Levi's apparent mismanagement. If LS&Co will ever get their heads out of their ass, they'd realize that they can sell a helluva lot more LVC products if they didn't make it almost impossible for a broad range of their customer base to buy them. Perhaps the new XX Division will turn this ship around.

I tried to rep too but I gotta spread it around some. I've faired way better as far as fit goes but its still extremely frustrating and each season it seems that something has changed. The 37 555 201s being undersized by a full size as well as all the early 1947s. The 1917s are slightly different than the 1915s with the 15s being slightly trimmer. I understand that some of the early models should be full in the seat and thighs but the waist and inseam should have some consistency.

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Agreed

The sizing issue has always been present in the Lvc range, the details of which have been discussed countless times here.

As airfrog has mentioned, the 555 201xx's, 555 47's (and 1873 duck) were all undersized. The 555 44's and 1873 1st (nat) blue were oversized..etc

But at least they were consistant !

Since 2003, I've bought eight or nine pairs of Lvc which are all at least two or three inches oversize in the waist. And since 2005 it got worse. Add to this, the inconsistancy in details (buckles, rivets, pocket shapes, cut, patches, stitching ..etc) - buying Lvc has become a real hit and miss experience.

This new XX group have an uphill struggle ahead of them.

.

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Agreed

The sizing issue has always been present in the Lvc range, the details of which have been discussed countless times here.

As airfrog has mentioned, the 555 201xx's, 555 47's (and 1873 duck) were all undersized. The 555 44's and 1873 1st (nat) blue were oversized..etc

But at least they were consistant !

Since 2003, I've bought eight or nine pairs of Lvc which are all at least two or three inches oversize in the waist. And since 2005 it got worse. Add to this, the inconsistancy in details (buckles, rivets, pocket shapes, cut, patches, stitching ..etc) - buying Lvc has become a real hit and miss experience.

This new XX group have an uphill struggle ahead of them.

.

I've been very lucky maybe Dejan I always seem ti find LVCs that fit after shirnkage. It seems since I started buying from Dejan he sends me stuff that fits.

I hope LVCs start getting thing right. The denim on my 1915s is as about good as it gets. Now if they could only get the right rivets on the early years along better buckles and really pay attention to pocket shape maybe.

Didn't I read that the new 47s have a one sided red tab? If so thats a good step and it does look like they changed material on the buckles on the 1915 now if they would only make that one section one piece it would be right.

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Hey Dr Heech, I'm impressed with those books of yours, hopefully can get my hands on 'em too one day. QUOTE]

Doug,

If your still interested, a scarce copy of Boon vol 1 on ebay now -

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VINTAGE-PROTOTYPE-JEANS-STYLE-BOOK-LEE-LEVIS_W0QQitemZ280441515910QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_CSA_MC_Jeans?hash=item414b9def86

:)

.

Dr Heech thanks for the heads up. Since Doug didn't want it I grabbed it.

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can anyone post the measurements of 1968 505 in 33/34 or 34/34?? pics would be nice as well

lookin' into a pair...anyone know where i can grab a pair online?

edit: used the search feature to try to find the answer before i posted but was unsucessful...check titles only as well as entire posts in superdenim and supermarket

thanks in advance

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Today I saw an industry expert who told me a little more about what's happening with LVC. It sounds very exciting; as mentioned before, LVC is now part of XX, a smaller operation out of Amsterdam, headed by Maurizio Donardi, which should eliminate the big-company bureacracy and allow them more speed to react. There will be other new ranges under XX, notably the Made and Crafted range, which sounds intriguing.

I did hear some amazing details, of how they tracked down tiny selvage looms, made in Sweden and now installed in Portugal, for all the labels. We also discussed recent concerns about issues like sizing, and the early rivets, which he will pass on.

The big news is the source of the fabric. I believe that Cone 1915 jean was a kind of test-bed for what they're doing from now on, which is to source all the LVC fabric from Cone (except the 505, which is Sanforized and will still use Kaihara denim). Just as they developed a 1915 replica fabric for the 1915, so will they do for the earlier denim (if they haven't already).

From some conversations I've had, this will be an improvement, for from gossip with various people (nothing official) I've heard that the buying process for some Kurabo denim has not been as rigorous as that for the later designs. I say this with reference to models like the Nevada and XX replicas, whose denim has never impressed me. AS for the really good Kurabo, like the 1920s 201, it remains to be seen how the Cone version comes out. While I like the colour of the existing 201, and the dungarees etc, I don't think it's authentic, the originals I've seen show much more striaton, for example. I don't know if Cone will do a natural indigo denim, like that used on the (underwhelming) 1st Blue Jean, it's possible, but I get the feeling they haven't discussed that as yet.

AS we've already discussed here, LVC have spec'd new, obscure fabric such as the brick-coloured cotton duck, now in a true selvage; I am hoping they will do the same with the other obscure early models. I forgot to mention my personal request, for the sliver and denim spring bottom pants, perfect for the Victorian gentleman (NB this is fantasy, no news they'll actually reintroduce them).

All the dry products will now be made in the USA - including products destined for Japan. So, if you're a fan of a particular Japan repro, or the existing 201, get them now. It is certainly true that some of the details on the Japanese versions, like cotton thread as opposed to poly core, are superior, but it transpires that the Japanese market preferred the made-in-USA jeans in any case (in this respect, it's a reversion to the old practice, as Japan sourced much of its range from the US until the last three or four years, which coincide with a lull in the innovation with LVC).

What else?? I heard news that there are some new finishes being developed and that these look amazing, every bit as good as the Nevada, from a new laundry (previously washing on the high-end models was by Bart Sights).

Other incidental points: I've seen people here complain that some of the LVC denim was 'singed' - a process to remove the 'fluff'. I mentioned before I didn't think it was; I now have it on the record, via Ralph Tharpe and others, that it isn't. The denim is less hairy because it uses a longer staple cotton; short staple cotton tends to produce hairier jeans.

LVC apparently intend to produce more quirky items, like the cotton duck jackets that I personally think only appeal to deranged nerds like me and Doctor Heech. THis emphasises to me how different LVC are - for as we've often suspected, LVC is really flagship product, a labour of love, and not a money spinner (in fact, I reckon it's a loss-leader).

Whatever else happens, I'm looking forward to lots of new intriguing items.

Great information PaulT, I like the diversity of products in addition to LVC, especially the 'Made and Crafted range' which I assume will use denim made on those "...tiny slvage looms..." And the use of Cone exclusively for all LVC brings tears to my eyes -- looks like some incredible stuff is on the horizon.

Prior to your detailed addition to the XX Amsterdam news, Levi's issued a brief press release back in Aug. announcing the fomation of this group/division in which it implies that once things get going, LVC will once again be offered for sale in the U.S.. I called Levi's customer service (big mistake) in late Aug. to confirm and was told that the "XX" LVC line will be offered in the U.S. w/in 4 months under the Levi's ® label, whatecver that means. I then called them again recently and they tell me they never heard of such a thing and said LVC is now exclusively an EU product that cannot be sold in the US -- typical Levi's run around -- jeez!

Do you have any idea about when we can expect to see commercial products from XX, and will the products be marketed widely in the US or limited exclusively to the EU and Asian markets? Many thanks...

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This blog says that LVC is coming back to the US this coming season

http://www.acontinuouslean.com/2009/08/06/hands-on-levis-vintage-clothing/

but I have yet to see anything definitive.

Great information PaulT, I like the diversity of products in addition to LVC, especially the 'Made and Crafted range' which I assume will use denim made on those "...tiny slvage looms..." And the use of Cone exclusively for all LVC brings tears to my eyes -- looks like some incredible stuff is on the horizon.

Prior to your detailed addition to the XX Amsterdam news, Levi's issued a brief press release back in Aug. announcing the fomation of this group/division in which it implies that once things get going, LVC will once again be offered for sale in the U.S.. I called Levi's customer service (big mistake) in late Aug. to confirm and was told that the "XX" LVC line will be offered in the U.S. w/in 4 months under the Levi's ® label, whatecver that means. I then called them again recently and they tell me they never heard of such a thing and said LVC is now exclusively an EU product that cannot be sold in the US -- typical Levi's run around -- jeez!

Do you have any idea about when we can expect to see commercial products from XX, and will the products be marketed widely in the US or limited exclusively to the EU and Asian markets? Many thanks...

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This blog says that LVC is coming back to the US this coming season

http://www.acontinuouslean.com/2009/08/06/hands-on-levis-vintage-clothing/

but I have yet to see anything definitive.

My bad, I'M talking about the official LS&Co press release issued 06/18/09 ( http://www.levistrauss.com/news/PressReleaseDetail.aspx?pid=896) It does not say anything about LVC returning to the US. My fear is that LVC is now exclusively an EU/Asian product no longer being sold in the US, and that's what Levi's cust service has told me. It all adds up, I mean the quality slowly getting worse over the past couple yrs, piss poor cust service then no longer being sold here and finally now managed in the EU pretty much tells me LVC is gone for good in the states. This is just speculation on my part and I hope I'm wrong. That's why I was hoping someone who knows, like Paul, might weigh in on this.

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My bad, I'M talking about the official LS&Co press release issued 06/18/09 ( http://www.levistrauss.com/news/PressReleaseDetail.aspx?pid=896) It does not say anything about LVC returning to the US. My fear is that LVC is now exclusively an EU/Asian product no longer being sold in the US, and that's what Levi's cust service has told me. It all adds up, I mean the quality slowly getting worse over the past couple yrs, piss poor cust service then no longer being sold here and finally now managed in the EU pretty much tells me LVC is gone for good in the states. This is just speculation on my part and I hope I'm wrong. That's why I was hoping someone who knows, like Paul, might weigh in on this.

I wouldn't pay any attention to what they say on that levis hotline. I've called them about a restock of 47s in size 34/34 back when they were still on their us website. They said they had some stocking problem and they'd be back in 3 weeks. 3 weeks went by nothing happened. Then they just disappeared completely. I called them more recently and I asked them if lvc was discontinued in the us and he told me that you could get it at flagship stores and that lvc would never be discontinued. This was probably 5 months ago when it was obvious there was no levis store selling anything. I don't know where they get the information they spout off, but it seems like they just make it up.

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I'm ok with not having it available in the stores, there's cultizm.. but you'd think Levis would be able to offer it via their site atleast. I see it as just another huge conglomerate where one dept doesn't have a clue what the other is doing, no different. Especially since the vintage line is obviously such a small piece of their pie.

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I think they are setting up dealers in the US; as far as I remember, more in the way of specialsed independent outlets rather than mainly Levi's stores as before. Obviously they need more informed sales people than was the case previously.

Paul

Similar to the original CINCH store? I remember there was a marked difference between the Regent street flagship store, with I'll-informed shop floor staff, and Cinch where the staff had some knowledge and alot of passion, but where the entire shop was dedicated to vintage levis. Loved that shop back then.

.

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As I said before, the guy that runs Farinelli's in the DC area claimed that he was going to be carrying LVC this spring, but I think the future of his entire operation is up in the air right now. That was the only outlet that I've heard mentioned. You would think that if it were going to happen here in the States this coming season we would have already heard from shops by now.

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