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Levi's Vintage Clothing

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5 minutes ago, cool_hand said:

@Sympathy-For-The-Denim Apparently the 1880s in rigid are TTS so I probably need to size up to a 36. Next question: does anyone know what the shrinkage is like on these? They are described as Non-stretch 8 oz. selvedge denim?

they are so generous around the seat etc that I would personally simply go for true to size. The waist will stretch back out for sure and the seat will still be generously proportioned. That's what I did with my 1890s, and my 1880s (not soaked yet).

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On 30/12/2017 at 7:10 PM, unders said:

IMG_8394.PNG

This looks great unders and you wear that style well. Was it raw when you got it?

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1 hour ago, Paul T said:

they are so generous around the seat etc that I would personally simply go for true to size. The waist will stretch back out for sure and the seat will still be generously proportioned. That's what I did with my 1890s, and my 1880s (not soaked yet).

I noticed they are described as anti-fit. I'm trying to find some better fit pictures of the seat. My impression is they have a high rise though - is that correct?

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13 hours ago, cool_hand said:

where can I find measurements for 1880's Overalls Rigid?

Some time in the next week or so, I will be able to provide you with measurements for 34/34 and 36/34 1880's Overalls.

I think a dummy at Levi's decided to call them non-stretch, incorrectly thinking that there might be dummy customers who don't realize that Spandex didn't exist in the 19th century, and then assume the low 8 oz. weight means that they're made of modern, thin stretch denim. It's unnecessary, and, as you have proven, potentially confusing. You can expect them to stretch at least as much as regular 100 percent cotton denim, and possibly more due to the light weight.

Edited by 428CJ

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20 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

This looks great unders and you wear that style well. Was it raw when you got it?

Thanks Maynard. It was pre-distressed, would have preferred raw. 

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Today I got the 1880s, my W32 measure 80cm or 31 1/2" and L32 measure 32". They come waist tapered as the 201xx, so you can have a big bum

but also taper in leg downwards. Definitely the most difficult fit to combine an wear.

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My first batch of LVC stuff from the recent sales has arrived.

I wanted to provide the following measurements for an XL Riover Rinse version of the TPB. They are quite an interesting contrast to the XL Rigid version I got last month (the measurements from that one will be in parentheses following each measurement for the rinsed one).

 

Triple Pleat Blouse, Riover Rinse (XL):

 

Chest (armpit to armpit): 25.5" (24.0")

Waistband: 25.25" (24.0")

Shoulder to shoulder: 21.25" (21.25")

Front length (placket top to bottom, plus waistband width): 23.25" (23.5")

Sleeve length, shoulder to cuff: 24.5" (26.0")

Sleeve length, pit to cuff: 19.75" (20.25")

Sleeve width, top (pit to shoulder): 11.0" (11.0")

Sleeve length, halfway (12.25"): 7.75" (7.75")

Cuff width: 5.5" (5.25")

Do you all think that they might size up TPBs that will be going through the factory rinsing process, as opposed to making a run of Rigid ones and then simply pulling and rinsing some of them? Or do you think the 3 inch larger full chest measurement than the rigid version (which must have been at least 4" larger than the Rigid one before rinsing) is just due to some mighty extreme variation in manufacturing?

...and the other item I got today:

 

XL Rigid Sunset Shirt:

 

Chest (armpit to armpit): 26.0"

Shoulder to shoulder: 20.5"

Top of button placket to split in shirt tails: 20.5"

Width at split in shirt tails: 26.0"

Front length (top of button placket to bottom hem): 29.5"

Back length (bottom of collar stitch to bottom hem): 34.0"

Sleeve length, shoulder to cuff: 23.5"

Sleeve length, pit to cuff: 21.5"

Sleeve width, top (pit to shoulder): 11"

Sleeve length, halfway (1.75"): 8.0"

Cuff width: 6.0"

The hang tag states that this is a shrink to fit material that will lose approximately a size when it gets wet.

The material is a really nice lightweight natural indigo chambray.

You'd have to be a dummy to have paid $385 list price for this…but $133, while still pricey, seems all right. It's really a gorgeous shirt.

Edited by 428CJ

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On 06/01/2018 at 11:46 PM, 428CJ said:

Some time in the next week or so, I will be able to provide you with measurements for 34/34 and 36/34 1880's Overalls.

I think a dummy at Levi's decided to call them non-stretch, incorrectly thinking that there might be dummy customers who don't realize that Spandex didn't exist in the 19th century, and then assume the low 8 oz. weight means that they're made of modern, thin stretch denim. It's unnecessary, and, as you have proven, potentially confusing. You can expect them to stretch at least as much as regular 100 percent cotton denim, and possibly more due to the light weight.

I ended up ordering the same as you (2 sizes) and will keep/send back the pair that work/don't work; that's if I like the fit! I'm sold on the natural indigo that's for sure.

Edited by cool_hand
typo

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I have a second hand pair of 1920's 201 that a bought on eBay a while back. Is there somehow I can tell if they had a "worn in look" when the where new or if they were a dark non wash/worn version? 

Would be fun to know :D

 

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5 hours ago, cool_hand said:

I ended up ordering the same as you (2 sizes) and will keep/send back the pair that work/don't work; that's if I like the fit! I'm sold on the natural indigo that's for sure.

FWIW, my 1880 size 36's came this morning. I expect the 34's to be there when I get home.

I misplaced my tape, so I have no measurements yet. But I can say that the waistband feels smaller than all my other size 36 LVCs when I first tried them on raw. It feels perhaps an inch over tag size. I would like to believe that this is by design, due to the fact that these jeans sit at a narrower part of the torso than most do...but that's probably giving them too much credit.

The fit is relaxed, but not "baggy" by any means. They are nice and lightweight, and feel like nothing when worn. The rise must be the same as, or maybe a bit higher than, the 14" rise of my 36/36 1944's, so they sit closer to the actual human waist line than most jeans (but still not all the way there). They will be great summer pants.

I will be keeping both pair, as I am sure the 34's will work for me too, even once shrunk (I don't shrink them prior to breaking them in).

Edited by 428CJ

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29 minutes ago, Rehnen1 said:

I have a second hand pair of 1920's 201 that a bought on eBay a while back. Is there somehow I can tell if they had a "worn in look" when the where new or if they were a dark non wash/worn version? 

Would be fun to know :D

 

Looking at the honeycombs, IMO they look too similar and "even" to be natural. I would say they are pre-distressed.

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27 minutes ago, Collin said:

Looking at the honeycombs, IMO they look too similar and "even" to be natural. I would say they are pre-distressed.

Maybe they are. The pocket bags doesn't seems to be that worn out either. 

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those are pre-distressed 201, I bought a pair on sale at the time. Then I have a feeling I simply lost them. That's how much I liked them. it was mainly the fact they felt like wool fabric, they're so soft.

I do love the cut, though, I'm looking forward to wearing mine again when I've cycled through more of my stash. Probably in five years or so. I loved these jeans so much I had three pairs at one point, although I sold the raw, 555 pair here, shown with my surviving pair. 5a56964b8a544_201fit2.jpg.e71d6124301885e4cf83b5842a504b5c.jpgIMG_0413.jpg.a37142d964baac01c324c7527261a31c.jpg

Edited by Paul T

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2 hours ago, andrewrose said:

Is this the proper forum to post photos of and questions about actual vintage Levi's, or is there a better place to do so?

yeah. go for it

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52 minutes ago, erk said:

yeah. go for it

Ok, so wife found these at a vintage shop recently. From what we can find, these are 60’s to 70’s era. They look to be in remarkably good shape. Any info?

Edit: are bell bottoms, sans rivets or selvedge line.

F9FCEE3E-3F98-4FF1-9DA6-C624B36C2EDE.jpeg

324DA73B-14D9-42D2-BDAC-C77D0F855E92.jpeg

CC3E4404-983F-4317-B0D7-319C6D2F8A55.jpeg

C0AB01CA-CA9E-4419-9223-70C8F32062A9.jpeg

2C5B2269-82DB-477F-9221-A25485BF4616.jpeg

Edited by andrewrose
moar

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7 hours ago, Paul T said:

those are pre-distressed 201, I bought a pair on sale at the time. Then I have a feeling I simply lost them. That's how much I liked them. it was mainly the fact they felt like wool fabric, they're so soft.

I do love the cut, though, I'm looking forward to wearing mine again when I've cycled through more of my stash. Probably in five years or so. I loved these jeans so much I had three pairs at one point, although I sold the raw, 555 pair here, shown with my surviving pair. 5a56964b8a544_201fit2.jpg.e71d6124301885e4cf83b5842a504b5c.jpgIMG_0413.jpg.a37142d964baac01c324c7527261a31c.jpg

Thanks! Now I know. 

Yours look awesome!

I love the cut to! The fit of mine are perfect IMO. Do you know if you had the same size in the raw version? Maybe I need a pair...

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@andrewrose, the white tab range sprang out of the orange tab range; a good number of them were made in Canada, and a lot of Sta-Press jeans went out under a white tab, too. None of them have rivets, as you mentioned, and they're usually OE or ring/OE denim, like the orange tab. They seemed to move to a lower case e later than red tab, so my guess is they're early 70s (definitely post-71 I reckon). Levi's were quite late in launching bell-bottoms, generally it's said they came after Wrangler introduced them. THey're nice items but don't tend to fetch high prices.

@Rehnen1, on my current 201, bought raw, I bought my actual waist size. They're still baggy - which is part of the aesthetic and as far as I recall they hardly shrank at all.

Edited by Paul T

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Just got this in today. Am I correct this is a Japanese LVC repro from the 90s? Anyone know what denim is used? weight? which mill it came from (Cone or Japanese)?

Construction, sewing, and denim are really awesome. Denim feels "dry" and irregular and is a lighter shade of blue. Leather patch. Buttons and hardware feels more substantial than my LVC 1947 jeans. Has a copper cinch-back buckle. Overall really nice jacket and in mint condition too for its age. It fits me great in terms of shoulder and chest width. A little short in body and sleeve length, so I'll have to pair it with jeans of a proper rise.

rsz_img_20180111_150354.jpg.6f4b54257c642f68bcef037d629cdd28.jpgrsz_img_20180111_150439.jpg.b7711e090d45a25dd86a8b64a7435e48.jpgrsz_img_20180111_150452.jpg.ecb7443c98b6d77389198963374b35d0.jpg

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That's so hard to say. I talked thru the range with a Japan LVC designer around 2001, towards the end of the time they did a lot of separate items, and a good many of them were made with Cone - but not all. A lot depends on when it was made, too, as earlier on I think they commissioned more from Kaihara. On balance I'd say it's more likely to be Cone than not. Is there anything else on the back of the tag?

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30 minutes ago, Paul T said:

That's so hard to say. I talked thru the range with a Japan LVC designer around 2001, towards the end of the time they did a lot of separate items, and a good many of them were made with Cone - but not all. A lot depends on when it was made, too, as earlier on I think they commissioned more from Kaihara. On balance I'd say it's more likely to be Cone than not. Is there anything else on the back of the tag?

Thank you for all the great information, Paul

I totally missed that there was something written on the back too!20180111_162459.thumb.jpg.7f70291d2f016421bfe0da99a6a1d5a6.jpg

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September 1991, wow! Is that more likely to be Kaihara Paul, seeing as it is quite an early model?

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I think there's a good chance it is. It might even be Kurabo who made the very first Levi's Japan fabric from 87.

that's a lovely find, pre-LVC and the equivalent of the first Capital E reissues.

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in sympathy to that amazing find

current lvc type 1 jkt

gotten my grubby mitts on a decent camera and just wanted to share the texture

[apologies for big size]

cone denim flat? uninteresting?

not here... speckled and crazy tensed fabric, with nice short hair

511jDvx.jpg

Gdd5Cmu.jpg

 

Edited by bartlebyyphonics

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@Maynard Friedman@Paul T Thank you guys for the deciphering! I really appreciate it.

Makes me really proud to own such an early product of LVC (or rather pre-LVC). If there's any interest, I'll get my good camera out and snap better pics on the weekend.

Edited by Outdoorsman

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1 minute ago, Outdoorsman said:

@Maynard Friedman@Paul T Thank you guys for the deciphering! I really appreciate it.

Makes me really proud to own such an early product of LVC. If there's any interest, I'll get my good camera out and snap better pics on the weekend.

To clarify, this is pre LVC.

I thought this info was in my book, it isn't, I must have written it somewhere else. Levi's Japan produced their first repro jeans in 87, the 502 I think, using Kurabo. Soon after, 1989 or 1991, Levi's USA brought their own Capital E reiussue, using Cone looms. THat was a kind of generic repro, a 1960s shape and incorrect detailing. Some of these were labelled as 701. I saw these being sewn in Valencia St but shamefully didn't have a camera. I wore 101Z repros on my visit and chided the foreman on the inaccuracy of their repro. He didn't appreciate the feedback.

Around 1993 they set out to co-ordinate the production worldwide, as LVC, across the US, Europe and Japan. First models included the 47 501, a 55 501, and a '201' whihc was really a 1937 501. More followed. Over this period, around 1993-2001, LVC Japan also produced their own models, which slotted in between the main LVC models. The Japanese ones often used Cone for STF, but sometimes Kaihara (all sanforized tended to be Kaihara). At different times, these extra models had nicer detailing, especially the leather patches etc.

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LVC 1915 rigid are going for the bargain price of £36 on uk levis.com

Edited by bod

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