Levi's Vintage Clothing

[roy6]

Too right, Paul. Usually the most interesting LVC items don't sell. I think the '20s mackinaws, one of their finest pieces, is on deep discount now at the shops. Seems like their beltloppless 501 models always end up in the sales too.

Is the writing on the wall then? Increased prices and quantities, lackluster sales for many items, possibly decreasing quality in some of the new 501s, further off-shoring and brand-wide signs of downsizing.

I wonder if LVC will end up as a handful of items sold alongside the regular Levi's fare. Like LVC when they began, except produced in China or Tunisia instead of on Valencia street.

At any rate, I'm finally accepting that LVC will never be what I personally want it to be, a top-tier innovative company that domestically makes extremely high-quality small batch items comparable with the productions of the better Japanese firms.

[Shorty Long]

Yeah...I've come to this conclusion as well. I'd rather see LVC take a dirt nap than try to continue in its present state.

Too right, Paul. Usually the most interesting LVC items don't sell. I think the '20s mackinaws, one of their finest pieces, is on deep discount now at the shops. Seems like their beltloppless 501 models always end up in the sales too.

Is the writing on the wall then? Increased prices and quantities, lackluster sales for many items, possibly decreasing quality in some of the new 501s, further off-shoring and brand-wide signs of downsizing.

I wonder if LVC will end up as a handful of items sold alongside the regular Levi's fare. Like LVC when they began, except produced in China or Tunisia instead of on Valencia street.

At any rate, I'm finally accepting that LVC will never be what I personally want it to be, a top-tier innovative company that domestically makes extremely high-quality small batch items comparable with the productions of the better Japanese firms.

[Paul T]

We shall see. Not necessarily any reason to lose heart - LVC have been making interesting stuff for well over a decade now. XX Amsterdam must have had huge overheads, so its closure is not necessarily down to lacklustre sales. I personally doubt they'll move production from the US - if I were going to guess, I'd say there'd be more. The lack of consistency is the most worrying aspect.

There have certainly been pointless changes in the last few years, including those stupidly-shaped pockets on the 1901 and 1920s jeans, but as well as some of the more diverse producsts, there has also been innovation and huge improvement in the fabrics (from which other people, including Left Field, and Roy, are probably benefiting), so I don't think it's worth getting depressed about it!

[Maynard Friedman]

I've given up with LVC and going back to my Lois, FU's and Liberto!

[setterman]

Too right, Paul. Usually the most interesting LVC items don't sell. I think the '20s mackinaws, one of their finest pieces, is on deep discount now at the shops. Seems like their beltloppless 501 models always end up in the sales too.

Is the writing on the wall then? Increased prices and quantities, lackluster sales for many items, possibly decreasing quality in some of the new 501s, further off-shoring and brand-wide signs of downsizing.

I wonder if LVC will end up as a handful of items sold alongside the regular Levi's fare. Like LVC when they began, except produced in China or Tunisia instead of on Valencia street.

At any rate, I'm finally accepting that LVC will never be what I personally want it to be, a top-tier innovative company that domestically makes extremely high-quality small batch items comparable with the productions of the better Japanese firms.

I think LVC can still be that, but they just need to be smarter about their line. The raw denim line is kinda a no brainer. Other than the lack of the 1937 being available, I think the current line up is pretty strong. You could find something to fix in every model (the '54 Z is the first one I'd go after), but the bases are pretty well covered. The rest of the men's clothing line IMO is pretty bland and redundant. Lots of the same shirt, T-shirt, or sweat, just in different colors and patterns. None of which grabs me and makes me want to part with a bunch of money. That new, blue fair isle sweater is the only thing that has really gotten my attention. They have some interesting items like that mackinaw, but they aren't a cheap date and are kinda a limited wear item (IMO, it isn't a jacket you're going to throw on daily with whatever you've got on). the line still have tons of potential and possibilities, just needs leadership and direction.

[Shorty Long]

I say we kick those Quaker kids our of their school and take back the Valencia St. factory!!!

[colgems1966]

or better yet since they have to restaff LVC anyway, hire the regular SUFU members! that would be interesting and we couldn't do any worse and probably a whole lot better.

[Maynard Friedman]

I say we kick those Quaker kids our of their school and take back the Valencia St. factory!!!

Just install some old sewing machines in that school and teach those kids to make jeans. I'm sure they'll benefit more from the vocational training than religious education. Oh hang on, they're just children, I'm sure Levi's wouldn't want to exploit cheap labour or break any employment legislation...

[Goominim]

ln-cc still gave me the discount 'cos i asked for it by e-mail. I bought my '47 a day or so before the 20% offer was made.

[Shorty Long]

I've offered my services but haven't heard anything yet. I'll work for peanuts (and free jeans) too.

or better yet since they have to restaff LVC anyway, hire the regular SUFU members! that would be interesting and we couldn't do any worse and probably a whole lot better.

[Maynard Friedman]

You know what they say - "you pay peanuts, you get denim-clad monkeys..."

[roy6]

Just install some old sewing machines in that school and teach those kids to make jeans. I'm sure they'll benefit more from the vocational training than religious education. Oh hang on, they're just children, I'm sure Levi's wouldn't want to exploit cheap labour or break any employment legislation...

Wait and see if Newtie Gingrich gets elected. Then, maybe...

[grooveholmes]

zing.

[clayton]

Anyone ever read the article with Maurizio from Inventory #3 (I've been reading this thread over the last five months and am only on pg.89, great thread. Not sure if this interview comes up since I'm only at June 2009)?

He talks about the inconsistency from the glory days with war production day and night shifts and hardware differences, etc, pretty interesting. So people who complain about sizing, difference in denim, etc would see that Levi's had issues during those years.

I thought a few pages back I read LVC was dead? Either way I'm glad I have a pair of 2006 produced '47 501's. I bought an overdyed anorak last year from LVC, but as other have pointed out, they've shifted production all over. My pullover was made in Turkey, luckily I paid half price for it on sale six months ago.

We all read this thread because we love Levi's and it's idealistic image in our minds. No other brand can harbour such debate.

[cheapmuthafukr]

just got a pair of 66 from beatle... hopefully they dont shrink too much more or my son (or maybe wife) will have a new pair of jeans.

[bunga]

found this 557xx jacket couple weeks ago. any idea which period it is dated from?

any ideas guys?

Made In US small patch with washing instruction

Flat buttons (copper?)

Double-sided Big E red tab (but the back is upside down)

Edited January 8, 2012 by bunga

[jyoni]

The skulls indeed look very good value if they have a lot of Pima in there given current cotton prices (although it has stabilised recently).

I've been rotating mine in lately. I don't know how much Pima is used or how it's staggered between the yarns. It's definitely a big part of the weft because they are silky soft and smooth on the legs. I don't have any full-Pima to compare however.

It was definitely a good choice if Skull was seeking a standard fabric to carry over through production years. But, alas. It seemed to be enough of an issue for some that I'm getting a serious "erstwhile" vibe off the whole brand.

[cheapmuthafukr]

that jacket is early 70s... iirc care tags started being required in clothing in 1970

[natehate]

anyone have any experience with the LVC 1967 Type 111 Jacket 70505-0217

hows it fade ? quality?

[bunga]

thks for the info cheap. did some online and confirmed it was '70s. a real bargain for what I paid for.

[bluegoldblues]

I posted about your jacket a couple days ago as did paul T..think it got deleted??

but yeah basically your jacket has the flat buttons which date to early 1970's

http://bluegoldblues.com/post/1365434458/early-1970s-third-edition-big-e-levis-jacket

[ThomasK]

Seeing all the pictures of vintage Levis on bluegoldblue's website I am pretty excited about how my 55s have evolved so far, they come very close in terms of the look of denim. It's not as hairy as I think Japanese brands tend to be. This 'quality' -for me- separates LVC from other brands. My 55 feels pretty light and soft, even though it is not hairy.

I don't want to start the discussion all over again, but what other brands use the kind of denim that you see in 55s and 47s. I guess one could mention Roy as he uses Cone denim, as well. But what about bigger brands?

[erk]

If im remembering correctly LVCs denim is exclusively developed for Levi's. If you want 1955 denim, you need 1955s.

[airfrogusmc]

I haven't seen this years 55s but I know a few years back that I had a chance to see a pair of original 55s and a pair of that year LVC repros and the originals had the off set belt loop but other than that the denim and the cut of the LVCs were dead on.

I think Paul has said that cone has gone through some trouble to faithfully reproduce the different denims used in different years.

The 1955 LVCs are really good repros and the pair that I saw next to the originals could have came out of the same factory (belt loop exception) and the denim was also the same weight and texture.

[ThomasK]

If im remembering correctly LVCs denim is exclusively developed for Levi's. If you want 1955 denim, you need 1955s.

Sorry, I should have said it more clearly. With "the kind of denim.." i meant fabric that is similar, not the same.

[jewellben]

What year did Levi's stop chain stitching hems?

[colgems1966]

What year did Levi's stop chain stitching hems?

1984

[bunga]

I posted about your jacket a couple days ago as did paul T..think it got deleted??

but yeah basically your jacket has the flat buttons which date to early 1970's

http://bluegoldblues...-e-levis-jacket

it was deleted which was weird 'cause i was going through the thread and couldn't find my post so i had to repost.

thanks again for the help fellas.

[Paul T]

Seeing all the pictures of vintage Levis on bluegoldblue's website I am pretty excited about how my 55s have evolved so far, they come very close in terms of the look of denim. It's not as hairy as I think Japanese brands tend to be. This 'quality' -for me- separates LVC from other brands. My 55 feels pretty light and soft, even though it is not hairy.

I don't want to start the discussion all over again, but what other brands use the kind of denim that you see in 55s and 47s. I guess one could mention Roy as he uses Cone denim, as well. But what about bigger brands?

I had an interesting conversation with the Cone technical director and Levi's do allow Cone to supply some denim to other manufacturers now, officially. But there's nothing exactly like the 1955.

The new Roy fabric is probably the nearest thing to straight Levi's fabric - not sure what specs it is, for some bizarre reason SelfEdge are saying it's "the first unsanforized fabric Cone has produced in the last xx years" when of course very little of their selvedge output from the last 20 years has been Sanforized.

As I've mentioned before, the 55 is my favourite of the later fabrics; I would love to wear in some of Warehouse's interpretation. I am not sure it is exactly like the 50s originals, that's probably impossible, but it's great denim. It's been very interesting watching my nipper's late 60s 302 wear in. I'm not certain everyone these days would like it, in some ways it's quite low contrast compared to modern denim, the knees went well before whiskers came in (he is 11, which contributes)... but the fade around the back pockets is amazing, nothing like any of my jeans, maybe it's the way he wears them. I'll probably wash em and post pic the same time I do my Roy x Cone, in a fortnight.

[dr.house]

It's true, the denim of the 55's feels softer compared to other LVCs. I wear my pair atm, they've been washed several times and don't have the contrast like my 47's e.g. I think they'll look marvellous after another year.