Levi's Vintage Clothing

[erk]

hell yes. what a great improvement. so much better.

edit: i'm talking about cultizm.com btw.

[Paul T]

While the millionaire boys club of programmers is basking in the neuveau riche afterglow, employees at the Chinese Foxconn factory that actually makes those iphones and ipads are committing suicide because of horrendous pay and working conditions. The company has claimed that it will double wages (but has only come up with 30% so far) and are crying that earnings will be down a fifth because of it.

Levis uses similar tactics by using only that tiniest bit of American manufacture that it can get away with that still allows it the impression of being the American company it once was. Farming everything else out to varied countries that have to compete with each other to see who can skin their labor costs closest to the bone.

You're right about this. It's worth pointing out Gap were the first to graft an 'all American' brand with overseas manufacture, they focused on the retail outlets far more than Levi's and simply contracted out production to keep it as cheap as possible.

It's sad that Levi's followed their example - although this followed years of financial commentators criticising them for not doing so, on the basis that off-shore or Chinese production is a new economic paradigm that would never end in recession.

Erk, I love your correction... as if, for a nano second, you were applauding Steve Jobs and his outsourcing..

[setterman]

I am looking for a pair of 1947 on cultizm.

But cultizm said the size runs a touch smaller...

I am normally 30~31 , should I get W32 or W33?

email them, telling them what raw or post shrink waist size you want (for example, post shrink size of 30") and they will tell you what tagged size to get.

[erk]

You're right about this. It's worth pointing out Gap were the first to graft an 'all American' brand with overseas manufacture, they focused on the retail outlets far more than Levi's and simply contracted out production to keep it as cheap as possible.

It's sad that Levi's followed their example - although this followed years of financial commentators criticising them for not doing so, on the basis that off-shore or Chinese production is a new economic paradigm that would never end in recession.

Erk, I love your correction... as if, for a nano second, you were applauding Steve Jobs and his outsourcing..

thank you paul.

I still can't understand how anyone at levi's thought it was a good idea to get rid of the valencia street building.

they have to spend a lot of money contracting US factories for LVC and they could use the factory as a marketing tool, a place people could visit.

and if I remember correctly, they've been complaining about rent for their headquarters...why didn't they just abandon the headquarters and renovate part of the valencia building?

to me the valencia building was an invaluable source of authenticity and pride for the company.

[dr.house]

That leg opening does look small. You seem to have a huge amount of shrinkage there; the thighs look pretty slim for a 55, altho they're larger than a comparable 47.

Allright, again some measurements (BiG style) after one day of wear:

waist: 32" (or 41 cm plain)

Frontrise: 11" (or 28 cm)

Upper thigh: 11" (or 28 cm)

Knee: 9" (or 23 cm)

Hem: 8" (or 20 cm)

Here you can see the amount of shrinkage after the initial soak compared to a new pair, of course in the same size:

Colour after soak:

And some unavoidable fitpics (sry for crappy quality):

[Happy Hooligan]

^ wow what the heck did you soak them with? Looks like you lost 3-4 inches in the legs alone!

[Maynard Friedman]

Thanks Dr House,

They do appear to fit slimmer than I thought.

Did you get a spare pair for the stockpile too?!

[denimdestroyedmylife]

what is the Valencia factory these days?

condos?

or a parking lot?

[dr.house]

Thanks Dr House,

They do appear to fit slimmer than I thought.

Did you get a spare pair for the stockpile too?!

Ha, no, it was a misunderstanding, dejan sends a second pair.

^ wow what the heck did you soak them with? Looks like you lost 3-4 inches in the legs alone!

40° C machine soak (no detergent, no spin cycling), I soak always that way to achieve the most shrinkage. Works great. They lost nearly 3 inches in the inseam, true (like they say on their shrink-to-fit sizeguide on the jean). But after this "gentle wash" 90% of the shrinkage is done.

[Shorty Long]

Quaker school

http://www.sffriendsschool.org/Our-Home/our-home.html

what is the Valencia factory these days?

condos?

or a parking lot?

[roy6]

they have to spend a lot of money contracting US factories for LVC and they could use the factory as a marketing tool, a place people could visit.

and if I remember correctly, they've been complaining about rent for their headquarters...why didn't they just abandon the headquarters and renovate part of the valencia building?

to me the valencia building was an invaluable source of authenticity and pride for the company.

I know, so sad that they let it go. When I moved to SF it was still open and manufacturing LVC pieces (along I guess with regular stuff).

Now they are apparently downsizing their main offices on Sansome too. They have two large building, and are apparently going to size down to one.

BTW, if anybody is ever tempted, the Levi's employee cafe is incredibly crappy. Like a low-budge Moirrison's cafe.

(I work at a building next door to Levis a couple of times a week.)

[dr.house]

i usually do the same. that is, i soak in really hot water for a while before allowing them to go through a wash, pulling them out just prior to the spin cycle. two treatments and they're pretty much ready to go, shrinkage complete. just easier this way.

That's it. Future washes at 30° C and your cool. Works great on every jean imo.

[roy6]

Since I was going by both the old Valencia street factory and the new headquarters today, I took my camera along.

The old Valencia street factory at Valencia & 14th.

The new Levi's headquarters on Sansome. It's both brick buildings on either side of the plaza.

Entrance of the main building.

Main lobby.

An ad from the new "Everyone is a worker" campaign. I didn't know factory workers could afford Mr. Freedom.

Stuff from an upcoming Levi's x Filson collab.

I've been by this exhibit in the main lobby before, but have always been in a hurry. I figured it would be maybe one interesting piece then a lot of photos and video, so i never went in. I took some time today and went in and was very pleasantly surprised.

[roy6]

I didn't see any signs that said "No photographs", but then, I was specifically not looking for them.

The original "bunkhouse jeans" & bandana found with them (left) and the LVC repros (right).

Closeup of the "bunkhouse jean".

A new jean to the archive, labeled "c.1880s Nevada type jean", pre-conservation.

A closeup of the Nevada type coin pocket. The cinch doesn't look to have ever had a rivet.

A 1910 Sunset wool popover.

An original of one of my favorite pieces from LVC S/S2010, the '50s shorthorn check shirt (labeled here as being from the '40s, so maybe this one is a longhorn).

A shirt very like this was in the last collection also. This one is labeled here as "western shirt, dates: '30s - '40s".

[roy6]

When I saw this I actually jumped up and down, very slightly, and made an involuntary sort of whimper of excitement. A mom-mulleted mid-western looking lady in a knock-off Tommy Hillfiger blouse and Kirkland jeans eyed me suspiciously and edged away.

The repro of this cotton duck popover was the best piece in the last LVC season, I think. PaulT has one, maybe he'll repost his pictures of it (flat and fit pic please, Paul:) ).

There were a bunch of pull-out drawers with archived objects.

These were on a separate table with a video about LVC with Lyn Downey & Miles (can't recall his last name) that is the new LVC head. All the materials on the table seemed to be repros.

[Joseph Hill]

Is that a tin cloth type III? I wonder if they're making them in the Seattle factory.

[RRLselvageDenim]

Nice roy6 + rep

[attackwithstones]

Yes it is a Type III out of Filson's Tin Cloth Fabric. It's amazing, but not as rad as the all denim Levi's X Filson Cruiser jacket. The collection is pretty amazing in my opinion. I'd say about 8 pieces total?

The Pendleton collaboration with Levi's is pretty rad too. But I prefer the Filson stuff. Can't wait till it comes out!

[roy6]

More Levi"s x Filson stuff:

[attackwithstones]

Oh, yeah I forgot to mention, all of the Levi's collabos will be MADE IN THE USA! So happy about that. And yes Filson will be making those in Seattle.

I think their is a pretty large amount of Levi's corporate employees who want their products made in the US.

I think it's going to trickle into real life slowly...

[aho]

Wow...why hasn't anyone ever posted any of that before? Brilliant work!

[Dr_Heech]

Many thanks R6, will try and +rep again, when I can stop drooling over those early archive pieces!

Love those printing items too.

[EDIT] Some Valencia st made jeans here (seller has three different pairs, 201xx + 2x 55's:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Vintage-Levi-501-XX-Big-E-RP-Rockabilly-Jeans-34-x-40-/230499651682?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Vintage_Men_s_Clothing&hash=item35aad99062

.

[jstavrin]

Roy--Great post. I may check it out myself now that I'm back in the Bay Area.

[ThinFinn]

must spread roy6.

great fotography there. thx a lot for all those nice pics. loving the chambray and the jackets

[dr.house]

Greaaat Roy, super work. Can't rep atm, too bad!

[Sansome1877]

Nice post Roy, looks like the Nevada style pant didn't have a tool pocket? Would be nice to see how big the patch was, looks like you could get a nice snap shot of the stitching, that holds the patch on? Early 1870's levi have small patches. No candle wax, looks like the person who wore these pants worked above ground?

[Paul T]

Oh, yeah I forgot to mention, all of the Levi's collabos will be MADE IN THE USA! So happy about that. And yes Filson will be making those in Seattle.

I think their is a pretty large amount of Levi's corporate employees who want their products made in the US.

I think it's going to trickle into real life slowly...

Terrific. Didn't know about that.

I know the XX employees would love to have their own factory. It is a fantasy of mine that Quakers will admit there's no God, and that ROY will help them re-open valencia St as a production consultant.

Excellent photos, roy, thanks. THere is something amazing about looking at those cool, 140 year old pieces of clothing, which still look pretty contemporary. Looks like that Nevada pair is earlier than their $42,000 version.

I was there just a couple of weeks after they got the Nevada, the first time they put it on display in the lobby;maybe half employees didn't really register it, but a huge bunch of them were asking questions, looking at the construction, it was pretty thrilling. And thanks of course for the Duck, I'll get the camera out. It look spookily close, but for the leather tag placement on the collar.

I find the current workwear scene - what's coming out from Mr Freedom, LVC, the FIlson collab, pretty exciting. I reckon there's a gneration of people who want to look out good products, made in the US, hopefully those manufacturers will benefit. It's funny, about two eyars ago I had an hours-long drunken argument with a Lib-Dem friend over dinner, he was arguing why Chinese-made jeans are good. Wonder if he'd still pursue that argument today?

[Paul T]

Interesting patent. I wonder if it's a Canadian version of the first US patent - or whether it's the mysterious 'second patent' that I've heard rumours about.

[Paul T]

A mom-mulleted mid-western looking lady in a knock-off Tommy Hillfiger blouse and Kirkland jeans eyed me suspiciously and edged away.

The repro of this cotton duck popover was the best piece in the last LVC season, I think. PaulT has one, maybe he'll repost his pictures of it (flat and fit pic please, Paul:) ).

AS you can see, I've hit my deadline..

]

As mentioned before, they've done a great job, most of all with the fabric; the leather tag is lower on the repro. I know they've used several different rivets on the earlier repros, my old '1873' matural indigo pants had chunkier, slightly more authentic rivets - but at least on this repro you have all the fun of attacking them with a hammer.

My mate Gerald The Scissors came around wednesday, I wibbled on so much about the cotton duck gear that he bought the pullover and the pants from cinch yesterday. I sahll try and post pics of him in his cotton duck uniform as soon as poss...

Edit THe one thing that does seem different is the length. From comparing the length compared to the breast pockets, looks as if they have made the arms longer, which makes sense.

[dr.house]

^Great work anyways and kool pics Paul! It seems they've used a thicker thread on the originals?