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Levi's Vintage Clothing


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3 hours ago, i_denim said:

Finally found what I wanted to hear from the man I wanted to hear from :)

I think it's fair to assume LVC will commission fabric from other mills and some could be in Japan. However, Cone selvedge now becomes a rarity and collector's item if somebody does want to own a cone denim. One could get a pair of Levi's Vintage ($$) or LVC Cone while they last. There may be others including Roy who offer Cone denim too.

While I narrow down on the LVC pair I want to invest in, did LVC offer other fits or they only reproed the 501s from several eras? I want to research about 606 and 505 fits as well.

They've always done the 505 (Kaihara sanforized denim IIRC) and often do the 606 in the Orange Tab range.

As mentioned before, I think Kaihara will be making the post-Cone denim. Unless they move any Draper looms to Mexico.

The 606 are a very different fit but are an absolutely fantastic repro. they have been available both rinsed (first pic) and raw.  I sold a raw pair (2nd pic) I got for my son due to sizing inconsistencies, but they were absolutely fantastic. TCB also do a good repro, but the LVC raw version with Cone denim, although made in Turkey, is the dog's bollocks. If they fit.

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606 bum main.jpg

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Looking very hard on the world wide web for 606 in rigid/raw denim in size 36. Nobody has any offers except Yahoo auctions for size 34.

I am now looking into proxy services as Levi's USA does sell this item. I wonder why they sell crazy washed, distressed versions. Seems counter intuitive.

 

They've always done the 505 (Kaihara sanforized denim IIRC) and often do the 606 in the Orange Tab range.

As mentioned before, I think Kaihara will be making the post-Cone denim. Unless they move any Draper looms to Mexico.

The 606 are a very different fit but are an absolutely fantastic repro. they have been available both rinsed (first pic) and raw.  I sold a raw pair (2nd pic) I got for my son due to sizing inconsistencies, but they were absolutely fantastic. TCB also do a good repro, but the LVC raw version with Cone denim, although made in Turkey, is the dog's bollocks. If they fit.

 

 

606 sounds incredible. It's a shame it's not popular like the 501 but I like the sound and measurements of it. Thanks, Paul. As usual, you're a fountain of knowledge.

Edited by i_denim
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  • 2 weeks later...
5 hours ago, mlwdp said:

https://hypebeast.com/2018/4/levis-sues-kenzo

Can Levi's really sue for this broad infringement because there's a couple brands even on this board that use a tab?

Levi's have a trademark for a tab in their orientation in the US and UK - so you can't use a brown or black tab etc. You can have a tab sewn onto the surface.

In other locations they have only trademarked some of their features - I think they didn't manage to protect their arcuate in Spain, for example, or both red tag and location in Japan (it's only when the Japanese makers export they have problems in some destination countries).

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My 1915s in Cone Denim from a couple of years ago (different fabric to current batch).

Just out of the wash. 

 

Edit: did a little homework - these are the Levi's - Cone 100 year anniversary model from 2015. 

I remembered there being a specific reason for this denim. The denim is quite special.

 

Little info and history here

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Edited by UkeNo
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lvc '15 bought very recently [november last year] (36x34 worn w. suspenders - worn true to size: and it stretches nicely: comfortable - cinch there for take ins...)

british levis indeed seem out of stock

here seems to have some from my IP location:

https://www.cultizm.com/gbr/denim/jeans/7517/levi-s-vintage-clothing-1915-501-rigid-9oz

 

 

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Edited by bartlebyyphonics
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the 15 are a fair bit different to the 1890  - the 1915 is essentially a straight-leg, the 1890s have the same high rise but are more obviously tapered. I tend to wear 1920s jeans like 1950s jeans, but you're going to sag the 1890s I think, they're definitely quirkier with the one pocket.

They are a nice cut, they were my main summer jeans until the TCB tour and contest. Buy your actual waist size.

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Thanks @Paul T, helpful as always. I am fine with any LVC pair long as they have suspender buttons and/or a Cinch. I need to experience those as well as cone denim.

I thought of ordering 1890 in tag size 36 but as per the measurements on Unionmade, they seem to run large. Or the sizing could be wrong on their site. It mentions 36 to have a waist of 38 which is too big for me. I have written to them, will share here if I hear from them.

It's about time LVC set up a separate online store that ships worldwide. I personally believe the brand will do better that way. They have no representation on any global online store like Amazon or Self Edge or RivetandHide etc. Only a few retailers like End Clothing, Cultizm, Superdenim carry the brand and ship worldwide.

 

5acb1f303e3eb_ScreenShot2018-04-09at12_43_27PM.thumb.png.656c7b03395c40346734300c9b9d009e.png

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That sounds plausible but actually my pair are true to size and I bought actual size. The waist stretches and the seat is baggy. sizing up by one inch (actual size) would work too.

I am 32 waist, and my actual size waists were 34 1947, 32 1955, 32 1966 and 32 1890.

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On 4/7/2018 at 10:46 PM, mlwdp said:

https://hypebeast.com/2018/4/levis-sues-kenzo

Can Levi's really sue for this broad infringement because there's a couple brands even on this board that use a tab?

Absolutely, but mainly in the US. I think the three things Levi's is super stringent about are the red tab on the back pocket, the arcuate design, and the "two horses pulling apart a pair of jeans" artwork on the patch. A whole grip of Japanese brands were emulating these three things to varying degrees -- some just flat out copying it entirely stopping just short of printing "LEVI'S" on the red tab -- but Levi's started taking action around the time many of these brands gained worldwide prominence. Most of these brands just made minor changes for the Japanese domestic market, mostly to the arcuates. For example, The Flat Head's arcuate design used to be extremely similar to Levi's, and could easily become just that if the consumer opted to remove a couple of threads with a seam ripper.

For exports, e.g. shipments to stores like Self-Edge and Blue In Green, there were more actions taken to lessen the resemblance to Levi's, such as removal of the red tab, more significant alteration to the arcuates (or entire removal,) and workarounds in the patch to avoid it being two horses pulling apart a pair of jeans.

Edited by enojy
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Is that Goerge from Seinfeld? he did a 501 print ad? wow!

 

3 hours ago, erk said:

Lvc is for sale on their www.levi.com website. I think that Paul is suggesting you buy your waist size precisely because they will be 2” over sized. For when they shrink they should be 36. 

I am not privileged to live in the first world. I get the sizing now. I am 36-37 so I will buy 36. Some fits at 36 are mentioned as 38 while others are mentioned as 35. I found a global retailer with free shipping and willing to under declare :)

 

That sounds plausible but actually my pair are true to size and I bought actual size. The waist stretches and the seat is baggy. sizing up by one inch (actual size) would work too.

I am 32 waist, and my actual size waists were 34 1947, 32 1955, 32 1966 and 32 1890.

 

I hear you. I am bitting the bullet with 36 in 1890 and getting a 1966 in 34 to come handy when I've lost all the weight. Please tell me I am not crazy.

Edited by i_denim
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Can't decide, so I thought I'd throw it out there. Should I wash my three-pleat?

I like my jackets looking new, really. Have no urge to fade it, or to increase contrast of wear etc, and I don't want it to get even softer. But it is getting decidedly grubby. I've hand-washed the cuffs but it's hard to say how that affects the look as the fading is only really visible on a more macro scale due to the open-ness of the weave. If I were to wash I'd do it by hand again and I might even try starching it, to keep the body and stiffness.

In short, I don't want to wash but think I have to. Thoughts? @bartlebyyphonics? @mandel9000? Anyone else washed this Cone 1880s?

 

Edit: it's grubbier in the flesh than on the pics. If you look at the paler marks on the top of the pockets, they have a definite browny tinge!) And for reference, here it is unsoaked, too.

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pocket.jpg

cuff.jpg

Edited by Paul T
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@Paul T - mine has been through two soaks - hasn't had as much loving wear as yours...

First soak was a mildly hot one upon purchase - with fear of rumours of extreme shrinkage... but not too bad in that regard (that is the state most pix of mine has been in)- but did lose the excellent ironed pleats of the back...

Recent soak not long ago: mild-mild-mild temperature, no detergent, and agitation only of cuffs / neck to get rid of dirt (ish) as was getting towards funky smell which i did not want to obstruct my general public functioning... and to prepare it for another summer of embodiment

No significant change again: with the soak and hanging outside - odour gone

Will get pix when have better light of its 2 soak condition...

(for me was not too worried about keeping sharp contours, as the wrinkling nature of the fabric is one of the things i am drawn to in it, but also do not want a smashing-softening process of washer-dryer business for this piece - putting it in the wash is something i too am scared of...)

from lurking knowledge: illumen8 of denimbro either soaked or washed his, i cannot remember... [but maybe different model?]

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Hmmm.

Quite often a hand wash is a kind of halfway house, my 1947s didn't really look good until I machine-washed them, it closed up the fabric and somehow made it look darker. But now you've made me kinda want a machine wash - and fear one, too. I'm fucked if it shrinks! ( it would be fine over a T, but it's been great as an indoor winter warmer over two layers).

I have never ever worried about washing before, maybe it's the demise of Cone that's turned me into a timorous beastie, or maybe it's simply that I love this jacket so much.

cuff.jpg

pleats.jpg

Edited by Paul T
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Grubby = wash, no question about it. Hygiene before beauty - or in this case, preservation of fabric/fit.

I haven't worn mine nearly as much and don't know how yours would turn out after a soak/wash, but in my case I started with machine wash and dryer because it was a bit too big, and the fabric still had that stiffness afterwards. Even the back pleats are mostly intact. Also worth noting that it didn't shrink much in width, only a little in length. 

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Forgot to say that it looks AMAZING, @Paul T! Should have started with that. 

And: I also love the jacket a lot, but I find one thing about the fit quite weird... don't know if you have experienced the same. The jacket spot-on everywhere, nicely fitted but still loose and not restrictive, except for the underarms where it fits rather tight. I have done a lot of sports in my life and maybe that part of of my body has a bit more muscle than the average person's, but not visibly so and certainly not more than men my size. It's gradual and luckily not too tight, just...very tapered below the elbow? I don't know. 

Edited by mandel9000
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