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maybe Paul T, you know something about the rigid 1880s natural indigo and when they will be in stores?

i just wonder since they are represented at fw2017 lookbook and also on instagram... look so promising.

@1890s the current production run is true to size, if not slightly smaller (and smaller than all other W30s of then current lvc run, not unlike the 1937s 201xx),

these where the only LVC in W30 (apart from 201xx) that I couldn´t wear just right from the start.

 

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@alvin_cheong I managed to measure my '76s. It's last wash was a few weeks ago, so I believe this will forever be their final size as long as I continue doing cold machine washes without tumble drying. The tag size is 31/34 (Pre-wash measurements -> Current measurements).

Waist 41cm -> 40.75cm

Front rise 29.5cm -> 28.25cm

Back rise 38.5cm -> 38cm

Thigh 31cm -> 31cm

Knee 23.5cm -> 22.75cm

Hem 21cm -> 20.5cm

Inseam 83.5cm -> 77.5cm

So the waist will basically stretch back out to the pre-wash size. Keep in mind that measuring the jeans when they're raw is a bit difficult because it's pretty stiff. I think I remember there being a bit of room around the waist pre-wash, but I've also put on weight since then. If you can find pre-wash measurements then it will make is easier to find your size.

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18 hours ago, Sympathy-For-The-Denim said:

maybe Paul T, you know something about the rigid 1880s natural indigo and when they will be in stores?

i just wonder since they are represented at fw2017 lookbook and also on instagram... look so promising.

@1890s the current production run is true to size, if not slightly smaller (and smaller than all other W30s of then current lvc run, not unlike the 1937s 201xx),

these where the only LVC in W30 (apart from 201xx) that I couldn´t wear just right from the start.

The rigid 1880 jeans are listed on Levi’s UK site for £280 with measurements; 8 oz Cone Mills denim dyed with natural indigo, single back pocket, silver rivets, Crotch rivet. They have up to size 36 listed with dimensions and seemingly not much room for shrinkage although they give a range for each dimension (waist, thigh and seat). Nice looking jeans in a lighter weight denim and natural indigo!

 

Edited by lance
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I own the 1890 501XX in the natural Indigo I did an initial warm soak and didn't get too much shrink. I may do one more.

The biggest issue for me is keeping them up. No belts loops is tough to get used to and I don't think I can pull off the suspenders look. ha

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Yea it's the same as the triple pleat blouse. I was told when I bought from Mike Harris that it was natural indigo, but maybe he was wrong. Either way it's beautiful

 

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those 1890s are beautiful, but they are synthetic indigo, like the triple pleat, a new fabric developed recently, specially for them I believe. The 1880s were the first time natural indigo was used since the Kurabo version. That denim does look like natural indigo but it's obviously different from the new fabric, which is quite a lot more purple.

I actually have raw and scraped samples of the 1880 fabric, which I've added below. On the left is the (soaked) 1890 fabric next to the (raw) 1880 natural indigo. Next are two samples of the new natural indigo, raw, and scraped.

finally, the scraped/distressed new fabric next to a vintage swatch found by Mike Harris. I know that when designing the yarns they thought this was the craziest thing they'd ever made. Fascinating to see it next to an original (we don't really know how old that swatch is or whether it's definitely Levi's but it's probably pre 1900, definitely natural indigo and is a good comparison). It looks pretty close to me. I do remember the Kurabo natural indigo had a tinted ecru fill yarn; if they'd used that here it would be pretty much indistinguishable, but whether the original cotton was that colour before it was left in a mine shaft for 130 years is another question. 

DSC04052.jpg

DSC04053.jpg

swatch.jpg

Edited by Paul T
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This thing of taking photos to show on a forum - mostly to people you don't know, might come mainly as a bit of a vanity thing, but that's only partial true because I did learn a few things with this photo exercise: I would never had given another soak on the 66's but did after seeing with more detail how they wrinkled in the photos; I wouldn't have changed the way I worn the 47's, letting them go lower waist when I was using them in a higher waist position trying to compensate for an oversized waist; as for the 54's and contrary to the 47's, I started wearing them much higher at the waist, instead of lower, because that way seemed to compensate for their (or mine) lack of ass, as the following photos will show.

1954's ZXX rigid raw USA, W30 (50154-0001, 2012, factory 4420, 1 initial warm soak and another very hot soak)

cultizm measures - post 1st soak - post 2nd very hot soak measures

waist: 15.55- 15.25 -14.75

front rise:  8.27?- 10.25 - 10

back rise: nd - nd - 15.5

hem 7.09? – nd - 7.75

Like the 66's I didn't own these from new so couldn't measure them at their non used/washed/soaked state. I used Cultizm measurements (unfortunately they took them off with the revamped site) for a W30 that might be, or not, inaccurate (see hem and front rise measures), although many state they're generally quite accurate.

After the 1st soak I was partially happy with the fit mostly due to their "lack of ass" so decided for a very warm 2nd one with these mildly shocking results to the leather patch that turned it into a potential ninja weapon... Another mistake was that I hemmed them after their first mild soak, and the hemming decision was that I wouldn't be doing cuffs with this model, using them more with shoes instead of boots so they were on the shorter side. After their 2nd soak they lost more leg but luckily they remained usable and for my taste, perfect to wear uncuffed with either shoes or boots.  With these I surely learned through mistakes!

 _DSC4235.jpg.bc0d43320e12e29ea3a4e09356175591.jpg

1st photo - how I used to wear them lower at the waist, 2n photo - how I started wearing them after seeing the photos, as explained at the beginning.

_DSC4256.jpg.52906e4a5703ae5e5c364ff26582a936.jpg  _DSC4302.jpg.2f0d023b0a2745e176808bbc4fad50ba.jpg

 

_DSC4258.jpg.5c770dd27a77a5d11f7ea45f6a22ffff.jpg  _DSC4305.jpg.f47ec4383463f1aab4cf65fcb15ca1ed.jpg

Like: not the greatest color from the batch of lvc's I have but enjoyable nonetheless, a very dark denim; the hairiest denim I've seen so far, very pleasing; leg fit and hem size, between older and more contemporary.

Like less but that's just idiosyncrasy: butt fit but it might be compensated if I wear them higher; white stitching at the back pocket rivets (see photo below) introducing a color not related to any other color used throughout the trousers; useless coin pocket size and perhaps related small front pockets; a zip in any 501 is a thing of hate and a potential deal breaker but sometimes you've gotta learn to love!

_DSC4241.jpg.bd82facfb36c4a5e25162fb5287f6303.jpg

Before buying I was unsure about this model mostly because of the zip, but they were bought in a reasonable deal and since then I decide to keep them. After using them my main bug was their "lack" of ass and as they weren't part of the original 501 landscape but rather a contemporary designer invention, mostly capitalizing on Marlon Brando image of the "the wild one" movie, perhaps their "lack" of ass design was the best to Brando's big butt and way of living. Through these photo sessions, which I wouldn't have done if I didn't discover this thread,  I discovered I could wear them in a different way I which might pay off if my waist doesn't enlarge too much. 

1.jpg.a0ef1244d88838112c0e68be35ac4383.jpg

 

 

Edited by free2hear
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4 minutes ago, free2hear said:

This thing of taking photos to show on a forum - mostly to people you don't know, might come mainly as a bit of a vanity thing, but that's only partial true because I did learn a few things...

I think the majority of us appreciate photos!

Also, have you tried the '44 501s? I'm not sure if you are going for a particular fit, but it might be worth looking into. They definitely have a high front and back rise, and are pretty straight from the waist to the hips. The seat and thighs are also quite small, so it might work if you feel you have no bum. I have a relatively small waist compared to my thighs/butt, so it is a cut that won't work for me (if I go snug or TTS in the waist, the thighs/knees are suffocating). If you go to the Cultizm, Unionmade, or Hinoya store sites and look up the '44s, you'll see what I mean where it's tight from the hip to knee.

Obviously, your mileage may vary, but it's worth having a peep at the '44 measurements to get an idea.

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2 hours ago, propellerbeanie said:

https://www.heddels.com/2017/10/cone-mills-close-white-oak-plant-last-american-selvedge-denim-mill/

Ummm... The White Oak plant is closing at the end of the year. What does this mean for LVC stuff?

I was thinking the same thing?! 

Also whats the future for brands like Railcar, Tellason and Rogue Territory isn't all their denim cone mills?

I would have thought they might band together and try to buy it. Unless the equity fund wants the actual land that cone mills are on? 

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46 minutes ago, kicks79 said:

I was thinking the same thing?! 

Also whats the future for brands like Railcar, Tellason and Rogue Territory isn't all their denim cone mills?

I would have thought they might band together and try to buy it. Unless the equity fund wants the actual land that cone mills are on? 

I can't speak for Tellason or RgT but I have a pair of Railcars that use fabric from Kaihara Mills. 

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On 10/17/2017 at 7:45 AM, propellerbeanie said:

This is a nice little video of 501s from the Levi's archives. Not quite LVC, but rather true vintage Levi's.

Great little vid. 

NOTE: around 3:00 she refers to the tiny little pocket a watch pocket, because it was used to hold a watch. Not a coin pocket then. It was only later that people started putting coins and other small thing it there. For some reason, I find it odd when I hear it called a coin pocket, because personally I find it a nearly useless pocket and can't imagine putting coins in it. ;) 

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3 hours ago, propellerbeanie said:

https://www.heddels.com/2017/10/cone-mills-close-white-oak-plant-last-american-selvedge-denim-mill/

Ummm... The White Oak plant is closing at the end of the year. What does this mean for LVC stuff?

That's f'd up. What's Roy gonna do? 

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Such awful, awful news. A good number of those people are my friends.

A part of me thinks someone must buy those 30-odd looms and take the staff on. With these businesses it's always the overhead and pensions that kill them.

I think it's a big deal for LVC, as Cone has always supplied that extra American-made cachet. But they've been prepared for Cone going bust for at least a decade; they had alternative fabrics sourced from Kaihara for years now.

there's a good chance I'll lose $1k from this as I have a story scheduled for which I flew out to Tennessee last month. But i"m much sadder about the loss of the company and the knock-on effect for other people I know.

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