Levi's Vintage Clothing

[setterman]

A quick cold soak and hand stretch the waist while it's still wet, and you should be good to go.  

[Maynard Friedman]

^ ... and save the shrinkage for down the line or just cold wash only? If you're planning on hot washing at some stage, then do it up front.

[setterman]

Actually, they don't shrink all that much.  To be on the safe side, I'd start them off with a cold soak.  That's how I started mine, and later on gave them a  cold, delicate wash.  Soak got 99% of the shrink out.  

[heyheyhey]

I'm tempted to size up but I get the impression the increase in size would make it look like I'm dressing up rather than wearing them if you catch my drift. Setter if what you say is true then a quick soak should leave them loose enough for what I'm after. Did you find a .5 inch shrink thigh wise? (Something like that)

[setterman]

I actually have raw and post soak measurements saved in the notes on my phone.  Yes, thigh shrank 1/2".  2" off the inseam, and 3/4" off the front rise. 

[Maynard Friedman]

If the thighs are tight enough, they'll stretch right back out again, just like the waist. If you're happy with the fit, keep 'em. The only place where the shrinkage will be irreversible is in the length (well that's not strictly true if you use a complex system of pulleys and weights, but you get the idea!).

[heyheyhey]

Into the tub they go! Pulleys and levers I'll set up in the garden if the weather stays nice.

[Goominim]

A few questions about the "1960s 606 Jeans Black Overdye"

Do they represent the first "black" jeans in Levi's history? If not, when was the first black Levi's made?

Does "Overdye" mean that the indigo denim was dyed black?

Edited April 18, 2014 by Goominim

[501XX4EVER]

Question for setterman, you mentioned in the TCB thread that you have a pair of 551ZXX, are they the recent versions and if so how do you find them? They seem to be a good bit more expensive than most of the other LVC models, including the 1954 501ZXX?

 

Thoughts/opinions?

[setterman]

Mine are Valencia St I picked up off ebay for $150. Original owner soaked them once and hemmed them, so after I washed them once the inseam was right where I wanted. I have pix in Instagram (@setterpie) if you're on there.

[501XX4EVER]

Nice pick up for that price. I'd safely say they are way better than the current version.

[setterman]

Can't compare them to the current model, but compared to my other pairs of recently made LVC 501s, construction is bit better, and denim is much better.  Tight weave and very dark, hard wearing indigo.  I imagine they're similar to SDA in that respect.  After four months of being worn two or three days a week, there's only the slightest hint of some wear.  I really like the cut, and if they were about a half inch bigger in the area from the tops of the front pockets on up, I'd be wearing them every day.  

[moacyr]

ˆ My experience too with a recent pair of 1955s, very dark and quite slubby denim for LVC - it is starting to fade very nicely.  The cut is my favorite, but that doesn't seem to have changed much compared to my older pair.  

[501XX4EVER]

Yes, I agree with that. I managed to get a beautiful pair of "555" era 1955 501XX on ebay recently myself, not as cheap as you got your 551ZXX, but still a steal. I have a fairly recent pair of 1966's and although the difference isn't exactly chalk and cheese, the Valencia Street era ones are just so much better in terms of hardware, details and the denim itself.

[Paul T]

Yes, I agree with that. I managed to get a beautiful pair of "555" era 1955 501XX on ebay recently myself, not as cheap as you got your 551ZXX, but still a steal. I have a fairly recent pair of 1966's and although the difference isn't exactly chalk and cheese, the Valencia Street era ones are just so much better in terms of hardware, details and the denim itself.

Interesting... how is the construction better?

 

Construction on my '99 55501, which pomata sourced for us some time ago, is actually worse; there is a sewing error, someone missed the 'stagger' on the back yoke. Still looking forward to putting them into rotation, of course.

Edited May 12, 2014 by Paul T

[LFC4ever]

I have quite a few pairs of new Valencia st 501xx, 551ZXX, 201, some 33's and some 505's and I think of them as "better" but probably only because they're more rare and I bought them from new and have kept them in my collection till they're almost true vintage! In reality they're probably no better than the current crop.

[501XX4EVER]

Interesting... how is the construction better?

 

Construction on my '99 55501, which pomata sourced for us some time ago, is actually worse; there is a sewing error, someone missed the 'stagger' on the back yoke. Still looking forward to putting them into rotation, of course.

 

I don't think I mentioned the word "construction", it's just my 555 era 1955's are maybe the best jeans I've ever owned, so far anyway. They are from 1996 and even though it's a light denim it still has a texture to it, the copper hardwear looks fantastic and will only get better with age, the two tone stitching is great as well and there are a couple of very subtle little touches like the single stitching on the hem of the rear pocket opening, and the V stitch on the waist button etc, on the outside they're orange and on the inside they're yellow, I never knew they did this. The pair of 1966 I own really have very little to recommend them other that it's an above average repro. and a very nice Levi's cut, they were tagged 36 x 36, but I think the original waist was at least 38 if not slightly more and the original inseam was 35!!!

 

There is no way they're as good as the old ones, maybe you just got a dodgy pair Paul!!!

Edited May 12, 2014 by 501XX4EVER

[Paul T]

I've owned a lot of 555 and 554, including the 1933, the 201 and quite a few others, most of which are on this thread somewhere... they're good and I love the heritage behind them. But I think rarity makes the heart grow fonder.

 

By 1966, do you mean a recent 1966 repro?

 

 

[shift3r]

I'm looking to get a pair of 1947 501xx from cultizm. The waist measurement they've provided me for a size 32/36 is 40.5cm/15.95". I'm a 32 in flat head 3001. I've tried a friend's pair in size 33 previously soaked in warm water purchased a year ago. Was told that his did not shrink that much. I've tried his jean and the fit seems alright but slightly roomy throughout. I'm looking obtain a slightly more slimmer fit than his.His measured about 16.5 in the waist now.

 

Is it safe to go for size 32 or should I up one to 33 as well?

[beautiful_FrEaK]

was his pair still just soaked with warm water or did it go through a machine wash? If his pair hasn't been washed by machine before, the size 33 might be the better option for you then

[setterman]

My experience with recently made '47s is that they don't shrink as much as what I saw with other models made a few years ago.  Expect to lose 1.5" at the waist and 2 to 2 1/2" in inseam.  And they will fairly easily stretch out to the raw waist measurement if you need them to.  So, it sounds like your friend's haven't been washed recently and are stretched out.  Without seeing how they fit you, we can't really give you much more help than that.    

[JohnM]

Please forgive this very basic question, but I am relatively new to the world of raw, selvedge denim (though I do own a few pairs, including Samurai S710XX, Fullcount 1108XX, and several Iron Hearts).

 

Is this discussion pretty much focused on older, original Levi's made years ago (e.g., 1955 or 1967) by Levi Strauss & Company, as well as reproductions of these vintage models, or is there also interest in jeans that are currently made by Levi Strauss?  I ask because if I want to find a pair of well made jeans with a relatively high rise (such as the model 1955), where would you suggest I go?  Would it be to the Supermarket or eBay to find an original, vintage pair, to a Levi Strauss store that carries new LVC jeans, or to another manufacturer focused on reproductions? 

 

Thanks.

John

[setterman]

If you want a '50s Levis style jean, there's the LVC '55, Warehouse 1001XX and 1001, Denime XX, Fullcount 0105, SDA 101, and probably five or six others I'm not thinking of off the top of my head.  

[Maynard Friedman]

To add to Setterman's post, here's a good starting point for 50s repros:

http://supertalk.superfuture.com/index.php/topic/103392-japanese-50s-cut-repros/

I'd also recommend Ande Whall's Buffalo or Caribou cuts;

http://andewhall.bigcartel.com

[501XX4EVER]

If you want a '50s Levis style jean, there's the LVC '55, Warehouse 1001XX and 1001, Denime XX, Fullcount 0105, SDA 101, and probably five or six others I'm not thinking of off the top of my head.  

 

And if you want a 55 cut with a high rise in a heavy Denim, Iron Heart have 2 options to choose from, raw and sanforized,.

[JohnM]

Thanks for the input and suggestions setterman, Maynard, and 501XX4EVER.

 

My interest in the 1955 is peaked by the high rise.  I've found that the rise on many jeans is simply too low for me -- some of this is age (59) but some of it is body type (low rise pants have never looked great on me or been comfortable).

 

For reference, I've had particular success with the fit of the Samurai S710XX (size 35), which has a moderately high rise and some room through the seat but some overall tapering down below also.  Fullcount's 1108XX (size 36) has also worked out pretty well (but not as well as the 710), again because of the moderately high rise.

 

I will compare BiG's measurements for the 710 and 1108XX to some of the 55 cuts that you've mentioned, but would imagine that the rise on the 34 or 36 1955 cut will be quite a bit higher, with possibly more room from the thighs down.  Any further input, advice, or words of warning regarding fit and sizing are appreciated ;-)

 

John

[setterman]

size 36 1108 starts with a 12.5" front rise, which is where most of the models I listed will start or finish at in the size 36, and they will be bigger in the thigh than your 1108s.

 

You're not going to find much higher than that in that size range.  Warehouse's new 1003XX (WWII 501), will start above 13" in the size 34 and 36, and that's probably one of the highest rises you're going to find in that size range. If getting my car inspected on Monday doesn't leave me broke, I might snag a pair.  

 

http://www.ware-house.co.jp/?pid=73045221

 

LVC's WWII S501 will have a very high rise too, but the leg width is slim compared to the rise and waist.  I have a pair of size 36, and it's like a size 38 waist and rise was put on a size 35 leg.  

[setterman]

To stick on topic with LVC, any model other than the '78 should meet your rise requirements (12" or higher), just depends on the leg shape you want.  I like the '55 and '66 a lot, the latter has never gotten the love it deserves at sufu.   

[straightarrow]

I realize Levis 517s are not currently in the LVC lineup but . . . does anyone else here miss the old slimmer fitting cut of the 517 before Levis ruined them about 12 years or so ago?  

I have been in search of a good truly slim fit raw/rigid bootcut for a long time.  I finally bought a pair of Samurai 512XXBC recently and absolutely love them.  But at 8X the cost of 517s I don't foresee buying a closet full of them.  I've written Levis a few times over the years asking them to go back to the slimmer cut but for some reason they won't oblige me!?*&^&!

Does any else here miss the old 517s?  Anyone want to mount a campaign to lobby Levis to bring them back?  Or should I just wait to die out like all dinosaurs eventually do, lol?

Thanks & Peace

[shift3r]

was his pair still just soaked with warm water or did it go through a machine wash? If his pair hasn't been washed by machine before, the size 33 might be the better option for you then

 

 

My experience with recently made '47s is that they don't shrink as much as what I saw with other models made a few years ago.  Expect to lose 1.5" at the waist and 2 to 2 1/2" in inseam.  And they will fairly easily stretch out to the raw waist measurement if you need them to.  So, it sounds like your friend's haven't been washed recently and are stretched out.  Without seeing how they fit you, we can't really give you much more help than that.    

 

His is warm soak,twice I heard,not through machine wash. I read about that different productions seem to have different measurement.Not sure if I'm right but the earlier productions have measurement larger than tag size i.e. tag 32 measures 33? If so then I guess the ones at cultizm now is probably the recent production since tag 32 measures 32.

 

If I get a 32 and it shrink approx 1.5" in the waist, will it stretch beyond 32?I would try to get a fit pic when I drop by again. Thankss