Levi's Vintage Clothing

[Paul T]

Today I saw an industry expert who told me a little more about what's happening with LVC. It sounds very exciting; as mentioned before, LVC is now part of XX, a smaller operation out of Amsterdam, headed by Maurizio Donardi, which should eliminate the big-company bureacracy and allow them more speed to react. There will be other new ranges under XX, notably the Made and Crafted range, which sounds intriguing.

I did hear some amazing details, of how they tracked down tiny selvage looms, made in Sweden and now installed in Portugal, for all the labels. We also discussed recent concerns about issues like sizing, and the early rivets, which he will pass on.

The big news is the source of the fabric. I believe that Cone 1915 jean was a kind of test-bed for what they're doing from now on, which is to source all the LVC fabric from Cone (except the 505, which is Sanforized and will still use Kaihara denim). Just as they developed a 1915 replica fabric for the 1915, so will they do for the earlier denim (if they haven't already).

From some conversations I've had, this will be an improvement, for from gossip with various people (nothing official) I've heard that the buying process for some Kurabo denim has not been as rigorous as that for the later designs. I say this with reference to models like the Nevada and XX replicas, whose denim has never impressed me. AS for the really good Kurabo, like the 1920s 201, it remains to be seen how the Cone version comes out. While I like the colour of the existing 201, and the dungarees etc, I don't think it's authentic, the originals I've seen show much more striaton, for example. I don't know if Cone will do a natural indigo denim, like that used on the (underwhelming) 1st Blue Jean, it's possible, but I get the feeling they haven't discussed that as yet.

AS we've already discussed here, LVC have spec'd new, obscure fabric such as the brick-coloured cotton duck, now in a true selvage; I am hoping they will do the same with the other obscure early models. I forgot to mention my personal request, for the sliver and denim spring bottom pants, perfect for the Victorian gentleman (NB this is fantasy, no news they'll actually reintroduce them).

All the dry products will now be made in the USA - including products destined for Japan. So, if you're a fan of a particular Japan repro, or the existing 201, get them now. It is certainly true that some of the details on the Japanese versions, like cotton thread as opposed to poly core, are superior, but it transpires that the Japanese market preferred the made-in-USA jeans in any case (in this respect, it's a reversion to the old practice, as Japan sourced much of its range from the US until the last three or four years, which coincide with a lull in the innovation with LVC).

What else?? I heard news that there are some new finishes being developed and that these look amazing, every bit as good as the Nevada, from a new laundry (previously washing on the high-end models was by Bart Sights).

Other incidental points: I've seen people here complain that some of the LVC denim was 'singed' - a process to remove the 'fluff'. I mentioned before I didn't think it was; I now have it on the record, via Ralph Tharpe and others, that it isn't. The denim is less hairy because it uses a longer staple cotton; short staple cotton tends to produce hairier jeans.

LVC apparently intend to produce more quirky items, like the cotton duck jackets that I personally think only appeal to deranged nerds like me and Doctor Heech. THis emphasises to me how different LVC are - for as we've often suspected, LVC is really flagship product, a labour of love, and not a money spinner (in fact, I reckon it's a loss-leader).

Whatever else happens, I'm looking forward to lots of new intriguing items.

[jake431]

...Shit! +Rep. Best post all day.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

wonder if they will get more expensive after all this changes...

[ThomasK]

Thanks for posting - this is really great!

[stagename]

"Japanese website, honeyee, has updated their features section with this new Levi’s Vintage Clothing “Tokyo Creators” feature that showcases various different pairs of denim that different Tokyo creatives have worked on including Hiroshi Fujiwara (fragment design), Shinsuke Takizawa (NEIGHBORHOOD), Kazuki Kuraishi (fragment design), Makoto Azuma, and Takahiro Miyashita. All of the different creatives worked on the Levi’s 501xx style of Levi’s denim with the only difference being that each person worked on a pair from a different year ranging from 1886 through 1955."

link for the article

link to the honeyee feature

I can't really say I dig the washes though...

[fardin]

wow paul all sounds great. cant wait for some of the more obscure ones like the cotton duck stuff, and the spring buttom pants. thanks for all this great news. cant rep you at the moment. ( wich one is the silver?)

talking about the spring bottom

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Levi-Strauss-1910-Spring-Bottom-Pants-Denim-Jeans-W38_W0QQitemZ350286294749QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxq20091201?IMSfp=TL091201029001r22314

[dralfonzo]

very excited to see what new things they have in the pipeline. Some people may not know but Maurizio was head of RRL for a number of years, I think he'll do LVC a lot of good. The office in Amsterdam is supposed to be amazing, in the old Olympic stadium no less!

[Guest Selvage Seb.]

wow paul all sounds great. cant wait for some of the more obscure ones like the cotton duck stuff, and the spring buttom pants. thanks for all this great news. cant rep you at the moment. ( wich one is the silver?)

talking about the spring bottom

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Levi-Strauss-1910-Spring-Bottom-Pants-Denim-Jeans-W38_W0QQitemZ350286294749QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxq20091201?IMSfp=TL091201029001r22314

Looks very cool!

That spring bottom strongly reminds me of the last Dockers K1,

almost the same pocket detailing and stitching, the inside layering + cinch back. Just without the flares

Gonna try to make some pictures of it in a store nearby

And what an exciting post Paul T! Keep us updated..

thank you

[fardin]

hey seb do you know more about the dockers K1 limited edition? are those pants accurate?

[airfrogusmc]

Today I saw an industry expert who told me a little more about what's happening with LVC. It sounds very exciting; as mentioned before, LVC is now part of XX, a smaller operation out of Amsterdam, headed by Maurizio Donardi, which should eliminate the big-company bureacracy and allow them more speed to react. There will be other new ranges under XX, notably the Made and Crafted range, which sounds intriguing.

I did hear some amazing details, of how they tracked down tiny selvage looms, made in Sweden and now installed in Portugal, for all the labels. We also discussed recent concerns about issues like sizing, and the early rivets, which he will pass on.

The big news is the source of the fabric. I believe that Cone 1915 jean was a kind of test-bed for what they're doing from now on, which is to source all the LVC fabric from Cone (except the 505, which is Sanforized and will still use Kaihara denim). Just as they developed a 1915 replica fabric for the 1915, so will they do for the earlier denim (if they haven't already).

From some conversations I've had, this will be an improvement, for from gossip with various people (nothing official) I've heard that the buying process for some Kurabo denim has not been as rigorous as that for the later designs. I say this with reference to models like the Nevada and XX replicas, whose denim has never impressed me. AS for the really good Kurabo, like the 1920s 201, it remains to be seen how the Cone version comes out. While I like the colour of the existing 201, and the dungarees etc, I don't think it's authentic, the originals I've seen show much more striaton, for example. I don't know if Cone will do a natural indigo denim, like that used on the (underwhelming) 1st Blue Jean, it's possible, but I get the feeling they haven't discussed that as yet.

AS we've already discussed here, LVC have spec'd new, obscure fabric such as the brick-coloured cotton duck, now in a true selvage; I am hoping they will do the same with the other obscure early models. I forgot to mention my personal request, for the sliver and denim spring bottom pants, perfect for the Victorian gentleman (NB this is fantasy, no news they'll actually reintroduce them).

All the dry products will now be made in the USA - including products destined for Japan. So, if you're a fan of a particular Japan repro, or the existing 201, get them now. It is certainly true that some of the details on the Japanese versions, like cotton thread as opposed to poly core, are superior, but it transpires that the Japanese market preferred the made-in-USA jeans in any case (in this respect, it's a reversion to the old practice, as Japan sourced much of its range from the US until the last three or four years, which coincide with a lull in the innovation with LVC).

What else?? I heard news that there are some new finishes being developed and that these look amazing, every bit as good as the Nevada, from a new laundry (previously washing on the high-end models was by Bart Sights).

Other incidental points: I've seen people here complain that some of the LVC denim was 'singed' - a process to remove the 'fluff'. I mentioned before I didn't think it was; I now have it on the record, via Ralph Tharpe and others, that it isn't. The denim is less hairy because it uses a longer staple cotton; short staple cotton tends to produce hairier jeans.

LVC apparently intend to produce more quirky items, like the cotton duck jackets that I personally think only appeal to deranged nerds like me and Doctor Heech. THis emphasises to me how different LVC are - for as we've often suspected, LVC is really flagship product, a labour of love, and not a money spinner (in fact, I reckon it's a loss-leader).

Whatever else happens, I'm looking forward to lots of new intriguing items.

Great post Paul would rep if I could.

[blm14]

Just saw these on ebay, any ideas on authenticity/season etc? I mean, are they supposed to have plastic buttons for the brace hooks?

notice that the hangtag appears to be printed UPSIDE DOWN!

If they're fakes, they're decent ones, but I've never seen the brown duck pant faked...

[Dr_Heech]

Lastly, in all of my years of buying/selling/watching/searching out vintage Levi's I can't recall seeing an offset beltloop on a pre mid 50's leather patch pair of Levi's, I have only ever seen this detail on the "every garment.." paper patch.....if you have images of a pair with this detail I would love to see them!!

QUOTE]

Partytaco

Will try and get some pics up over the weekend for you.

.

Partytaco,

My mistake, you are correct and I am wrong. The pix of what I thought were a 1947-53 pair with offset beltloop, on closer inspection, are a 1953 - pair. The 1953 flasher kinda gives it away, so does the two sided red tab. Although they still look to have a leather patch.

Will still try and put the pic up this weekend.

Again, apologies. I am here to learn....

.

[Paul T]

blm I'm sure you're right, they're not fakes. I can't remember off the cuff what seasons they were; there was one set around 2001 which was almost certinaly a 555 pair but I don't know whether there were any before or since, part from the 2-pocket pair. Maybe the Dr knows?

For all the paranoia about fakes, it's rare that you need more than a second look. There were some Lees on here a couple years back that were very convincing, but it's probably more cost-effective to do a half arsed fake that fools some of the people some of the time.

[Dr_Heech]

BLM

They look identical to mine, which are genuine (seen here with the 1901 duck) including the upside down tag.

Whats the sellers' username? Or can you link?

.

[airfrogusmc]

I just pre ordered a Duck jacket from Dejan from the upcoming season. Speak'n of jackets, hows that Monarch 422 Doc? Looks killer with a pair of 33s.

[airfrogusmc]

Great post Paul would rep if I could.

Hey Paul I forgot to ask if you had a chance to talk to them about how bad their buckles are?

[Dr_Heech]

I just pre ordered a Duck jacket from Dejan from the upcoming season. Speak'n of jackets, hows that Monarch 422 Doc? Looks killer with a pair of 33s.

Havent yet had the chance to wear it.

Also ..... it smells of fish

[airfrogusmc]

Havent yet had the chance to wear it.

Also ..... it smells of fish

Theres a joke there but I'm not gonna take it.

I had mine on earlier today. It just keeps on getting better and better with wear.

[blm14]

airfrog - how do you pre-order stuff from cultizm?! And where can i see photos of that duck jacket?

[beautiful_FrEaK]

just write them an e-mail. they are nice to deal with

[airfrogusmc]

airfrog - how do you pre-order stuff from cultizm?! And where can i see photos of that duck jacket?

BLM they haven't been released yet and I haven't seen it yet either.

E-mail Dejan. He's very good about getting back to you.

The guy is AWESOME. I order on say Monday and I have my jeans in hand by Thursday to the US from Europe. And he can get stuff sometimes thats not on his site. He was able to get me a pair of 1911 333s and also a pair of 1905 209 coveralls and I don't think either of them were listed on his site.

His LVCs are ALWAYS top notch, no seconds like some places and the raw is made in USA.

I wouldn't buy LVC anyplace else.

[horriblyjollyjinx]

Today I saw an industry expert who told me a little more about what's happening with LVC. It sounds very exciting; as mentioned before, LVC is now part of XX, a smaller operation out of Amsterdam, headed by Maurizio Donardi, which should eliminate the big-company bureacracy and allow them more speed to react. There will be other new ranges under XX, notably the Made and Crafted range, which sounds intriguing.

I did hear some amazing details, of how they tracked down tiny selvage looms, made in Sweden and now installed in Portugal, for all the labels. We also discussed recent concerns about issues like sizing, and the early rivets, which he will pass on.

The big news is the source of the fabric. I believe that Cone 1915 jean was a kind of test-bed for what they're doing from now on, which is to source all the LVC fabric from Cone (except the 505, which is Sanforized and will still use Kaihara denim). Just as they developed a 1915 replica fabric for the 1915, so will they do for the earlier denim (if they haven't already).

From some conversations I've had, this will be an improvement, for from gossip with various people (nothing official) I've heard that the buying process for some Kurabo denim has not been as rigorous as that for the later designs. I say this with reference to models like the Nevada and XX replicas, whose denim has never impressed me. AS for the really good Kurabo, like the 1920s 201, it remains to be seen how the Cone version comes out. While I like the colour of the existing 201, and the dungarees etc, I don't think it's authentic, the originals I've seen show much more striaton, for example. I don't know if Cone will do a natural indigo denim, like that used on the (underwhelming) 1st Blue Jean, it's possible, but I get the feeling they haven't discussed that as yet.

AS we've already discussed here, LVC have spec'd new, obscure fabric such as the brick-coloured cotton duck, now in a true selvage; I am hoping they will do the same with the other obscure early models. I forgot to mention my personal request, for the sliver and denim spring bottom pants, perfect for the Victorian gentleman (NB this is fantasy, no news they'll actually reintroduce them).

All the dry products will now be made in the USA - including products destined for Japan. So, if you're a fan of a particular Japan repro, or the existing 201, get them now. It is certainly true that some of the details on the Japanese versions, like cotton thread as opposed to poly core, are superior, but it transpires that the Japanese market preferred the made-in-USA jeans in any case (in this respect, it's a reversion to the old practice, as Japan sourced much of its range from the US until the last three or four years, which coincide with a lull in the innovation with LVC).

What else?? I heard news that there are some new finishes being developed and that these look amazing, every bit as good as the Nevada, from a new laundry (previously washing on the high-end models was by Bart Sights).

Other incidental points: I've seen people here complain that some of the LVC denim was 'singed' - a process to remove the 'fluff'. I mentioned before I didn't think it was; I now have it on the record, via Ralph Tharpe and others, that it isn't. The denim is less hairy because it uses a longer staple cotton; short staple cotton tends to produce hairier jeans.

LVC apparently intend to produce more quirky items, like the cotton duck jackets that I personally think only appeal to deranged nerds like me and Doctor Heech. THis emphasises to me how different LVC are - for as we've often suspected, LVC is really flagship product, a labour of love, and not a money spinner (in fact, I reckon it's a loss-leader).

Whatever else happens, I'm looking forward to lots of new intriguing items.

I agree that LVC has gotten real good, but I still can't trust Levi's about some things. Like the type of floor the loom sits on affecting how the weave comes out.

They're creating a good product, but the problem for their credibility that according to them, 100% of everything is always 100% good.

So, Levi=spoonful of salt.(Like every other denim brand)

[ChuckO]

Am I reading into Paul's post that LVC might do some (purposely) non-authentic selvedge jeans. I'd love to be able to buy some Japanese style combinations of vintage elements. For instance a 66 style jean with hidden rivets on the back pockets and decent arcs (I hate 66 arcs but like the cut). I love the vintage repro's and wouldn't want them to go away but I'd really like to see them also treat selvedge jeans like a living, evolving, thing for modern bodies without getting as far out as the Levi Red engineered stuff.

[Guest sneekylyric078]

Will the increase in quality (hopefully), being brought in by the revamped LVC line also be reflected in the apparel line? Will this affect the general quality of everything Levi's has to offer trickling down from the premium lines all the way down to the general offerings they have?

[blm14]

i've purchased a couple of things from cultizm so I know how great they are - I just didnt know you could order stuff they dont officially stock before it's even out yet LOL

[Shorty Long]

I just think they reserve an item for you until they're available. I could be wrong but I don't think they offer a formal pre-order or pre-purchase option. That's what I've experienced at least.

i've purchased a couple of things from cultizm so I know how great they are - I just didnt know you could order stuff they dont officially stock before it's even out yet LOL

[Doug C]

What do you guys think of these,I'm thinking about buying 'em:

[blm14]

non LVC 1901s? Weird - never seen that!

[Paul T]

THey are a kind of mass market 1901 repro, the vague shape of the 1901. Been on sale for a few months now, the ones I've seen have non-selvage fabric that doesn't look particularly interesting. Personally they do nothing for me.

[mikedbt5]

Doug , I think it is a case of you get what you pay for . These are good jeans , with some neat features . Whilst the denim is tough wearing you won't get the fading(as quicklly) as the LVC or other premium denim models , if thats what you want .Personally I own a pair of the 1967 505s from the same range and enjoy wearing them . However , unless these are on offer , for another £40/50 maxyou an get an LVC repro . The merits of LVC repros are pretty much the substance of this thread , for me they are tops .