Jump to content
TPR950H

Rock climbing/bouldering (saved my life or whatever)

Recommended Posts

who here does it? school me on some equipment. indoor for now.

so far i wants:

fiveten shoes and bison climbing chalk..

picture:

(250309135635)missionimpossibleII_3.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Such a sexy scene.

I went bouldering twice at Threshold in Riverside a few months back. It was hands down the quickest I've ever realized that I liked a hobby/sport so much. If I could jiu-jitsu and boulder everyday in Irvine, it'd be da fukin shet.

And the women, my god the women.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try a bunch of different kinds of chalk out. I just buy chalk balls from my gym whenever I need to re-up, and they don't use brand name chalk.

Try a bunch of different shoes on before you bother buying. They fit so differently that it really makes almost zero sense to order over the Internet before you figure your size out on a per-model basis.

Velcro, laces, slipon, whatever your feet feel good in is what I'd go for. You're going to grow out of these shoes (in terms of skill level at least) in like, half a year if you climb regularly, so get whatever fits best and is the most comfortable. By comfortable I mean something right on the edge of uncomfortable, otherwise your shoes are too loose.

See if you can get something with a leather liner, otherwise your shoes will smell like shit real quick. Caveat being leather lined shoes will be a bit more expensive.

Don't get something with a crazy downward curved toe as your first shoe. Save that for a later pair.

5.10 Rogues were an alright first shoe, but my big toe tore through the mesh in about 4 months. My friend had the same shoes and didn't experience that problem.

Other than shoes, a chalk bag (get one with a brush loop), and a roll of tape for your fingers, you won't need much other gear for indoor bouldering.

Even when you hit the outdoors, all you'll need to pick up is a crash pad (Metolius Stomp pad + spotter is what I use for non-highball problems) and you're good to go.

When you start doing outdoor repelling, top-roping, and lead climbing is when you need to get your money up.

Have fun!

Edit: I'm liking La Sportiva Solutions for indoor shit right now - moderately aggressive downturned toe, but not terrible for serious flat smearing. Used them at Otter Cliffs in Maine a few months ago and they killed it outdoors too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ya ke1 is right, there are tons of super heady women that climb. the wall at my schools gym is the spot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

we should change this to a general mountaineering/rock scrambling thread...:D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

so i just picked up some fiveten coyote vcs2 off the shopfiveten.com website closeout. the length fits well but the toe box/part the upper leathers is kinda not so tight.

anyone have experience with these shoes and the way they fit?

i just bought my street shoe size as i tried on the coyote laces up 1/2 size down and those were crazy tight.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great advice from MyAcademy.

TPR950H, I climb a lot, and all my shoes have been uncomfortably tight in order to edge & get toeholds. I suspect that if you can wiggle your toes, they're too big...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Such a sexy scene.

I went bouldering twice at Threshold in Riverside a few months back. It was hands down the quickest I've ever realized that I liked a hobby/sport so much. If I could jiu-jitsu and boulder everyday in Irvine, it'd be da fukin shet.

And the women, my god the women.

holy shit my friends climb at theshold all the time haha

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just got into this sport and my god i'm hooked. Climbed a few v2's and have made my way halfway up a v3.

Already injured though, waiting on a finger pulley to stop being sore before I get back in the gym.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Already injured though, waiting on a finger pulley to stop being sore before I get back in the gym.

finger injuries are the worst :( I've just come back from 6 weeks off (that is, only climbing twice a week) because the tendons in my right hand were starting to twang whenever I tried to pinch anything small... better than the alternative though.

I used to climb with a guy who has since had to give it up altogether due to elbow/tendon problems. he's super bitter about it. it must really suck. I can't imagine not being able to climb - it's my favourite activity...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
When you start doing outdoor repelling, top-roping, and lead climbing is when you need to get your money up.

Man, putting together a rack of trad gear is definitely nasty to your wallet :(

but now I can multipitch big faces! :D

Has anyone here done any mountaineering?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Climbing 2-3 times a week now. Mostly bouldering, some top roping and the occasional sport climb. Really disappointed in how little outdoor time I got in this year. I was supposed to learn how to trad climb this year but I graduated college and all my climbing buddies and I ended up moving different places.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hey, wow I'm surprised this thread exists!

nice if it saw more action...

Just recently got back into climbing, currently working on completing a bouldering challenge at the local gym, 30 problems in 30 days, loving it

Any of the fellow BC superfriends ever boulder outdoors in Squamish? planning on heading down before it gets too cold out

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bumping this thread. I've talking to this girl currently that has been climbing since she was 5 and teaches at the largest wall in my area. I want to start climbing and getting into it, but what can I do before my first time on the wall to look less...inexperienced?

I've been interested in the sport for years, but have never had the opportunity to get into it until now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Such a sexy scene.

I went bouldering twice at Threshold in Riverside a few months back. It was hands down the quickest I've ever realized that I liked a hobby/sport so much. If I could jiu-jitsu and boulder everyday in Irvine, it'd be da fukin shet.

And the women, my god the women.

Since you're in Irvine. You ever go to Rock City?

Bumping this thread. I've talking to this girl currently that has been climbing since she was 5 and teaches at the largest wall in my area. I want to start climbing and getting into it, but what can I do before my first time on the wall to look less...inexperienced?

I've been interested in the sport for years, but have never had the opportunity to get into it until now.

In terms of exercise? Maybe work on your grip and dead hang from a pull up bar. Chin ups / pull ups help too...

In terms of technique? hard to describe unless you've climbed a little, but probably biggest improvement as a beginner is to not try to muscle things with your upper body. Try to dead hang with straight arms more, climb up pushing with your legs, think through the problem, and how you're going to move on it.

Edited by delirium

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yea, if you get tired hang with your arms straight, it will save you from your muscles cramping or getting tired.

Slow, fluid movements.

Also, don't overgrip the rocks, your fingers will get tired way faster. Hold with just enough strength.

And warm up!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the encouragement guys. I've been watching videos of Chris Sharma, Don Osman, Euli Stecketc for years. Really excited for the chance to experience it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

^ Try to stay calm on the wall. Take extra notice on where and how you put your feet on the holds. No banging on the wall! :)

Most of all, have fun! You're going to be hooked... ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for bumping this thread. Im new but I'm hooked. I go 3 - 5 times a week to hanger 18 in Hawthorne.

To the new guy trying it out. Your hands are going to take a beating its gonna be hard to look very badass with fresh hands. The good thing is she'll be used to newbies, AND your gonna have the best teacher. Experienced women climbers have amazing technique.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To the new guy trying it out. Your hands are going to take a beating its gonna be hard to look very badass with fresh hands. The good thing is she'll be used to newbies, AND your gonna have the best teacher. Experienced women climbers have amazing technique.

^^ truth. They aren't hard on the eyes either.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had mad rock and 5.10 shoes, I haven't climbed for a year or so now, but when I get back into it I'm looking to get some la sportivas!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Hidden by delirium, January 4, 2012 - No reason given
Hidden by delirium, January 4, 2012 - No reason given
alex-puccio.jpg

Share this post


Link to post

Thanks for the encouragement guys. I've been watching videos of Chris Sharma, Don Osman, Euli Stecketc for years. Really excited for the chance to experience it.

Here's my 2 cents. Boulder as much as you can. with bouldering you don't need to worry about tying in and out, and you can plan challenging routes which require problem solving skills. that way your technique would improve. build stamina and flow by going wall to wall sideways. do top rope after your bouldering session. so if you have 3 hrs to climb, do 2 hours of bouldering then head to the top rope. if you tire easily, stick to bouldering your first few sessions.

top rope is just a succession of problems. if you learn how to systematically tackle problems, just piece what you learn from bouldering together and you'll do very well on top rope. keep your body close to the wall to maximize the use of your legs. if you're in a compromising position then straighten your arms but try keeping 50% or more of your weight on your toes. if all else fails, try jamming your hands and knees in-between cracks.

on a side note, i once tore the crotch on my jeans from speed climbing lol. had to hold my crotch as i was lowered to avoid the embarrassment.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited) · Hidden by delirium, January 4, 2012 - No reason given
Hidden by delirium, January 4, 2012 - No reason given

wt7px.jpg

zsh2e.jpg

Edited by delirium

Share this post


Link to post

Yeah what he said. Your two cents is worth a lot more in my book. I'm still new enough to have learned something from your post. Thanks for sharing. Also, your crotch ripped jeans story gave me a good idea:

WAYWT - bouldering edition.

Huh? Huh?

Any stone masters out there climbing in Band of Outsiders suiting? Let's see!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know this might be a little early in the game for someone that hasn't even gotten on the wall yet, but I'm looking at some of the stuff from Outlier. What do you guys wear to climb in?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Shirtless, board shorts or jeans or burms. What you wear isn't important as long as you are comfortable. If you're really considering this sport, buy a decent pair of shoes and size down till your toes curl. It'll feel like Chinese foot bonding, but it's to reduce the amount of heel space there is after the front starts expanding. These shoes weren't made for walking ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

...I'm looking at some of the stuff from Outlier. What do you guys wear to climb in?

Just climb in clothing you can move in. No Outlier required. If you're going to spend money...

...buy a decent pair of shoes...

I'm not so sure I'd recommend someone new sizing so aggressively, as it could sour the experience for you. Look for a fit that is very snug, but not so snug that it hurts.

Other tips include hanging with your arms straight (saves strength VS flexing on the wall), breathe, use your legs, twist & turn to expand your reach, don't closed crimp for your first few sessions (Google that, it'll save your fingers while you get used to climbing), downclimb problems as often you can, and grab the finishing hold with both hands... don't just slap it and jump off the wall.

Have fun!

Edited by MyAcademy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't believe thats the right way to do things. Only instructors would get shoes TTS as they have to walk around in them all day to teach. for him, he has to size it 3 down from true, otherwise in 2 months time he's going to be annoyed that he can't do heel hooks as his heel is too loose.

The right advice would be for him to get a flat arch shoe, rather than an aggressively arched shoe which technical climbers use.

Here's a bouldering shot of me in my skin tight jeans back in 2009. almost 3 years later, i wonder how i moved in those.

Action.jpg

Edited by saintkeat

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Luisa via Roma (US)
    Privilege Program