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Rock climbing/bouldering (saved my life or whatever)

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This thread has a lot of potential, we can't just let it die!

Anyway, I'm climbing in tenerife this summer, and it's so good. Most of the climbing spots are located in canyons (barrancos). The largest canyons are located close to villa de arico, I think there are around 250 routes, mostly bolted sport routes (from 5a to 7c+ i think, and ranging from 12 to 30 meters in height). The rock is mostly basalt, smooth texture with loads of deep pockets and nice chunky holds. There is also a different type of rock which is sharper and with more ledges, and sometimes the two rock types blends in to each other within the same route. There are quite a few classic crack and chimney routes as well.

I have done maybe 15 routes so far, the most difficult ones being 6b's. I'm comfortable with lead climbing, but I'm still not very good at cleaning the routes, but i think i'll have it down in a couple of more sessions.

I hope to be able to stay here when the climbing seasons starts in october, and hopefully be able to work with tourism and help develop this amazing climbing area. Many people don't know about the climbing here, and it's really only in the last few years people have started going here. it's really one of the few places in europe that has good climbing in the winter (with a total of 3 days of rain last year). It's located close to the airport and close to the beaches, so you can arrive in the morning, climb during the day, then go surfing in the afternoon.

Hit me up if you want to come climbing here, i have good connections and can hook you up with cheap accommodation, gear and guides and whatever.

34o97b8.jpg

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Glad someone bumped this thread. I reconnected with a friend. I knew she was a pretty accomplished climber, but apparently she's ranked as one of the top 50 female boulderers in the world right now. I just dropped out of university and need something to put my energies into. Going down to the rock gym today. Going to pick up some shoes, and try to really hit this hard. Wish me luck.

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so last few times i bouldered at the gym wall i tore my hands up good. is this bad technique or is that just something you callous up and deal w.?

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2 weeks in and I'm loving it. During my first fitting I was recommended the Evolv Defy. A couple climbs later and people kept telling me I got a bad fit and that I should change shoes. There was way too much fabric, because I have a narrow foot, I guess. Ended up picking up the La Sportiva Miura tonight. Feels great to have a technical shoe. Trying to get my first V3 before the end of August.

lasp_miuraVS_ylw_09.jpg

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you climb in your left fields bro? next level evo.

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Bought a rope and quickdraws last week, broke one of my fingers running up a set of stairs in flip flops the same day. Bad karma yo.

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anyone go to brookyln boulder? i had a gilt city pass there a few months ago and it was an awesome experience. wish i could make it a regular thing but all i have are bad excuses as to why it's not.

might look into a membership.

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Finally ordered my own pair of shoes

five ten anasazi moccasyn

Five-Ten-Anasazi-Moccasym-Climbing-Shoes2.jpg

it's a shame there aren't better looking alternatives in the climbing world, you would have thought the japs would have swooped on this shit by now but oh well.

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Those look pretty good, but I couldn't imagine using a slip on shoe.

Finally started finishing some V2's and projecting a few V3's. Feels good.

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I'm at that awkward transition between v3&v4 too ADH. scraped through my first v4 earlier, and I have 3 more I'm trying to clean up on (have 1-2 moves on each route). Kind of sucks having been stuck on v3s for a few weeks but it helps me get out to more gyms so I don't get bored of the climbs at vital.

have any of you guys been outdoor climbing??

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It is significantly different, and most find it to be more difficult the first few times around. The variety of holds and creativity of movement outside is completely unparalleled by gym climbing, and while there's another learning curve to deal with most are inspired on a whole new level when they first go outside after growing up in the gym.

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Stoked this thread is getting some more attention and getting folks into climbing. Pushed my first V4 outside, been pushing a bunch of V5's in my local gym. Need more friends locally who are into it. Only getting on ropes outside like 3 times a year.

To the folks climbing indoors looking to move outside. Its so much better, fresh air, better views, less lines. The only different I found besides getting used to not following tape is how much sharper real rock is.

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Love the vibe I've been getting from just talking to other climbers. Went into the indoor gym at my uni for the first time since the year started and work through a few of the easier v3's in the place. Crimps are slowly becoming more comfortable but I still scrape up my knees cuz my footwork sucks.

You guys got any recommendations on pants?

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I live so far away from the closest climbing gym now i can barely go there once a week, so I'm not progressing at all. i don't know how the american bouldering grading system works, but I have been stuck at 6b+/6c for like a year of (very casual) climbing. I'll assume this is equivalent to v4/v5. I have decent technique, but I really need more finger strength to push the grades further.

A few days ago I was offered an interview for a climbing instruction position, but turned the offer down because i just started working for another company. Dumbest fucking decision of my life. I tried calling the woman back like 5 times and sent her 2 text messages telling her i was still interested in the position, but no reply as of yet.

I also got these quite recently:

Evolv-Shaman-Rock-Climbing-Shoe.jpg

Very different from what i'm used to, but has definitely improved my climbing.

And these, a bit to geeky for the gym but will probably be good outdoors.

43286519_o3.jpg?20120514172802

Edited by carlanton

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Finished a V6. Still a couple V4s in my gym that I can't get... Maybe even 1 V3 that just doesn't work with my body or something...

Started top roping last week too. Finished 5.10B today. The endurance is crazy. I'm awful at seeing the wall while top roping. I end up grabbing hand holds and smearing up the wall more often than not...

If anyone is in the middle east coast area there is a bouldering competition at Earth Treks Rockville on November 10th. I'll be there in either beginner or intermediate.

Edited by ADH92

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I realize I'm kind of the only person bumping this thread, but look at what I bought yesterday.

5ezj9.jpg

My gym had a big crate full of used holds for sale. I got all of these for a touch over $150. Crazy. Been talking with a few friends about making a huge rock climbing wall in an artists studio so now it's going to happen. So stoked.

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fucking awesome! i'd do it too. i'm up to bouldering v-6. keep it up man

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$150? I know holds brand new are crazy expensive but for used ones that seems like kinda a lot...

Don't want to be negative though, homemade boulder wall sounds like a sick idea. Been trying to get something like that going for a while now

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all those rocks....so much potential

this past week was pretty solid for me: flashed my first v4 and top roped my first 5.11. My endurance sucks though so when I do go to top rope I get in 2-3 climbs max, it's kinda embarrassing :\

Also realized how different heel hooking 5 feet off the ground is from when you're 50 feet up, have crimpy holds, and finally hitting the crux. I want to climmb fucking giants now.

Anyone else have those moments where the only thing you want to do is climb in completely inappropriate moments?

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Building a home made bouldering wall isn't to hard if you have access to all the tools needed. There are good plans online. Its nice if you can get enough anchors into the wall to have it pivot so you can change incline. The it can also be stored vertical My buddy has a 10ft wide wall in his garage, i'll see if i can get the plans from him.

A hangboard has helped my gym progression a ton when work gets to busy for me to climb often.

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started leading again and gawdamn my endurance is terrible. fell four times today just going for clips/pumping out whilst already on a hold...

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Ugh. Got some pretty pissed off tendons in my elbow. Looks like I'm going to have to take 2 weeks off if I really want to let them heal fully and not turn into something chronic. Super bummed.

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yo what do you guys do to keep your fingers from tearing up? started multipitching some long crack climbs and keep tearing callouses off. never had this happen before. tried finger tape before, tried moisturiser to keep the skin from drying out too much - neither is solving the problem but they help... is there anything else you guys suggest?

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yo what do you guys do to keep your fingers from tearing up? started multipitching some long crack climbs and keep tearing callouses off. never had this happen before. tried finger tape before, tried moisturiser to keep the skin from drying out too much - neither is solving the problem but they help... is there anything else you guys suggest?

If your tearing up your hand in general (back of hand/fingers), then tape up like this.

http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/Glove.htm

If you loosing big callouses in chunks then you gotta reduce the callus so its not sticking out and getting caught. 150 grit sand paper does the trick. Moisturize after.

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fair enough, thanks man. heard that nail files/sandpaper were a good way to go but hadn't tried it. it's more the callouses than the backs of my hands - getting torn up in general but that's to be expected outdoors/particularly crack climbing. might try that tape glove aswell though

hope your elbow is resting up well :)

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Luckily (not really) my work week ended up being a 70 hour monster so I didn't need much convincing to not hit the rock gym. Elbow is feeling a ton better and my boss said too add Wednesday to my holiday weekend for putting in all the effort last week, so I'll be able to get a few good days in at the gym when its not crowded.

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Anyone know of any good rock climbing forums. I been to brooklyn boulders 8 times this week. I am addicted!

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