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what causes the shiny sheen to new dry denim?


homi29

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  • 4 months later...

hi mike, and welcome to superfuture.

a proper glossary is still in the works, but simply put dry denim is literally denim that has not been washed - it is raw, unprocessed denim which still holds all its dye and hence is a deep indigo colour in most cases. imagine if you will a blank canvas, yet to be painted over by any artist. most other "washed" denim has been through denim laundries that process it whether by sandpapering creases on, or putting it through pumice stones (stonewashing).

for some of the names of creases, you can try the superdenim encyclopaedia, under the Denim: Technical Aspects, Construction, Processing heading - look at "hige" and "atari". apart from that whiskers refer to the lines across the waist that you might observe on most jeans, which look like a cat's whiskers. honeycombs are the effect created by the bending of the leg on the back of the knee, resulting in a folding pattern resembling a comb. generally speaking these are the main terms - but read some of the threads as mentioned and you will learn about other defining details of jeans. :)

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i love the light sheen that brand new dry denim has, and im wondering what produces that look

and more importantly if theres any way to recreate it?

It's caused by compression and moisture (and sometimes heat). Industrially, this is calandering, and it's the way the chintz effect is added to cottons.

Traditionally, the shine of indigo dyed cottons was highly valued by some cultures, and the effects were achieved by compression (stone rollers and a liberal sprinkling of water) and by beetling - hammering with wooden mallets.

There's a little chat about it here.

http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showthread.php?p=66064&highlight=beetling#post66064

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^^ agreed, being that wear on dry denim or "raw" denim is so complex and relies on many factors, it's obviously difficult to pinpoint the direct cause of each effect, like shine for example. ive been wearing my dior raw indigos (21cm) for quite sometime. since then, ive realized its the compression as a result of sitting and rubbing the denim off the arse on chairs and such. cheers..

ps im drunk

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since then, ive realized its the compression as a result of sitting and rubbing the denim off the arse on chairs and such.

Off-topic: I just left the library and a nice indigo stain on a wooden chair and someone wearing white sweats sat down in the chair. hehe

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I noticed a couple people asking about the sheen on raw denim. Has anyone ever put their denim in the oven? I just thought of this since someone said calandering(sp?) which involved heat and pressure, could restore the sheen. So if you put some bricks on the jeans and baked em for a while could it come back? Sounds crazy but if I can get my old 501s I'll try it. As long as anyone here knows if it won't catch on fire or combust :P.

PS. Does anyone know if it would shrink denim that's already been shrunk by washing/drying.

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I don't really think sheen is something to LOOK for .. but here is 3 pairs ...

all 3 have their own type of sheen .. see the shine-e-ness << couldn't figure how to spell that at all .. :-(

http://i15.tinypic.com/2a69vz4.jpg

46xyf0k.jpg

each is a different color and different wash

From left to right

Levi 517 1980's orange tab > Penguin raw selvage > Gap 1969 Italy

the 1969 are not raw at all were soaked like 8 times before their 1st wear and the sheen on them is from my bootay rubbing things .. They are the main pair I am working with currently .. All 3 shine much more in person ...

So did those 2 pics help at all superstar ?

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I noticed a couple people asking about the sheen on raw denim. Has anyone ever put their denim in the oven? I just thought of this since someone said calandering(sp?) which involved heat and pressure, could restore the sheen. So if you put some bricks on the jeans and baked em for a while could it come back? Sounds crazy but if I can get my old 501s I'll try it. As long as anyone here knows if it won't catch on fire or combust :P.

PS. Does anyone know if it would shrink denim that's already been shrunk by washing/drying.

I just got me a headache somehow ..

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I don't really think sheen is something to LOOK for .. but here is 3 pairs ...

all 3 have their own type of sheen .. see the shine-e-ness << couldn't figure how to spell that at all .. :-(

http://i15.tinypic.com/2a69vz4.jpg

From left to right

Levi 517 1980's orange tab > Penguin raw selvage > Gap 1969 Italy

the 1969 are not raw at all were soaked like 8 times before their 1st wear and the sheen on them is from my bootay rubbing things .. They are the main pair I am working with currently .. All 3 shine much more in person ...

So did those 2 pics help at all superstar ?

Yup, helped me a lot.

I guess my Evisu lmt. edition had some kind of sheen at first then. But now, mum ruined them by tumblewashing them :(

Thx a lot Numero

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I noticed a couple people asking about the sheen on raw denim. Has anyone ever put their denim in the oven? I just thought of this since someone said calandering(sp?) which involved heat and pressure, could restore the sheen. So if you put some bricks on the jeans and baked em for a while could it come back? Sounds crazy but if I can get my old 501s I'll try it. As long as anyone here knows if it won't catch on fire or combust :P.

PS. Does anyone know if it would shrink denim that's already been shrunk by washing/drying.

IMO stupid idea, ur oven will be ruined and then you'll have to go buy a new oven :) Aswell I think the jeans will turn totally black at high heat, and smell like straight dog ass.

^ So much for gettin' the sheen back.

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It's caused by compression and moisture (and sometimes heat). Industrially, this is calandering, and it's the way the chintz effect is added to cottons.

Traditionally, the shine of indigo dyed cottons was highly valued by some cultures, and the effects were achieved by compression (stone rollers and a liberal sprinkling of water) and by beetling - hammering with wooden mallets.

There's a little chat about it here.

http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showthread.php?p=66064&highlight=beetling#post66064

good to see an expert back!

isn't calendering fairly similar to the process for sanfordizing denim? I believe both involve compression and heat and fabric being rolled through large drums (correct me if this in inaccurate). then it would make sense that sanfordized denim, such as APC or Nudie has more sheen when new than shrink to fit denim (which is the true).

Thoughts?

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I noticed a couple people asking about the sheen on raw denim. Has anyone ever put their denim in the oven? I just thought of this since someone said calandering(sp?) which involved heat and pressure, could restore the sheen. So if you put some bricks on the jeans and baked em for a while could it come back? Sounds crazy but if I can get my old 501s I'll try it. As long as anyone here knows if it won't catch on fire or combust :P.

PS. Does anyone know if it would shrink denim that's already been shrunk by washing/drying.

I thought we addressed people who want to bake denim bread in another thread? are you the same guy? First off I will say the same thing I said before, Don't bake jeans. secondly the bricks would not cause enough pressure. Maybe if you put your jeans between two hot steel plates and them drove on them with you car or truck. :) I am kidding don't do this, be nice to jeans!

And to answer the second part it very likely could catch on fire.

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