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Pure Blue Japan


midnight

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thanks! i sized them the same as my 007 considering these were bigger. it would most def be tts. definitely not the intended 005 cut, but i could do with something slimmer for now. keep trying them in tokyo, seemed alright then and bought it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So a bit more evidence came out from

The BiG Instagram that PBJ and Oni are made by "the same elder craftsman but different machine" what's everyone's interpretation on that?

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Innocent until proven guilty. However, with a number of new releases, it doesn't seem to add up for one guy producing all the denim.

Edited by BlackPig
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the part that i find most taxing to the imagination is not that it's one person producing all the denim for two extremely popular denim companies, but that one loom is, even if it has been modified to work 26hrs per day, at double speed, at all times of year. except that can't be right—i remember reading once that, according to this particular legend, this tireless old man shuts down his magic loom whenever the humidity isn't right, or some other peculiarity like that.

 

so, let's take magical realism out of the picture and examine this a bit more closely. we have our fantastically hard-working (and probably very wealthy) elder craftsman working his temperamental, chattery old loom (rawrdenim once reported that shuttle looms work at around 150 picks [rows of weft yarns] per minute, compared to 1000+ picks per minute on a conventional projectile loom) at what seem to be very specific times of day and season that are completely out of his control. shuttle looms are notoriously loud and, to state the obvious, old, and this one probably breaks down quite often, but no matter; our craftsman is so in-tune with his instrument that not only does its screaming and shaking have no deleterious effect on his aging body, but in fact, both the craftsman and the loom itself seem to be in a constant state of regeneration, a perfect symbiosis between man and machine. despite the fact his products practically fly off the shelves at—just speaking of PBJ, off the top of my head—denimio, blue in green, rivet and hide, blue owl, standard & strange, pronto, and cultizm, among countless other stores I'm unaware of, our humble craftsman seems to have no need for any extravagance, or even modern comfort, instead preferring the solitude of his quiet mountain home and the soothing chatter of his ancient machine.

 

yep, that all sounds about right to me!

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PBJ recently doubled its capacity because it has access to another Toyoda loom and a craftsman who does have the skill and knowledge to calibrate the loom to weave fabrics with PBJ's denim's unique characteristics. It took Kenichi Iwaya a long time to get this in place as he is so fastidious about the fabrics he makes. There were 2 year gaps between some denim runs and now we are seeing some lines run twice a year. Last week in Tokyo I saw a couple of brands we don't carry (no names) attempting to imitate PBJ and they don't even come close. 

Edited by Danny @ Rivet & Hide
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either way it's about quality at hand neither brand disappoints imo..

if it was never mentioned would anyone really care about some grandmaster weaver story.

I hope they are bent so I can get a chance at more pbj :D

Edited by M3RK
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I got a feeling they will be releasing the deep indigo 15.5 oz I believe in near future..

that I'm assuming will be the name ks-012 same fabric as ks-013(aka variegated;) possibly only an oz. less or very similar fabric will have a much tougher feel to it & vertical fades but isn't part of the normal xx series.

did I not call it haha

http://www.okayamadenim.com/products/pure-blue-japan-ks-013-wid-slim-tapered?variant=18047968261&mc_cid=3273bf5d06&mc_eid=1d3d67e0a6

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PBJ recently doubled its capacity because it has access to another Toyoda loom and a craftsman who does have the skill and knowledge to calibrate the loom to weave fabrics with PBJ's denim's unique characteristics. It took Kenichi Iwaya a long time to get this in place as he is so fastidious about the fabrics he makes. There were 2 year gaps between some denim runs and now we are seeing some lines run twice a year. Last week in Tokyo I saw a couple of brands we don't carry (no names) attempting to imitate PBJ and they don't even come close. 

 

What Danny said.   

 

 

Regarding Oni and PBJ - there is no relationship there as far as the production of the denim.   

Edited by mrsmiff
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Recently I spoke with somebody who has worked with PBJ in the past, who told me that PBJ and ONI are made in the same mill—in fact, the whole mill (6 shuttle looms) is run by the creator of ONI, and PBJ has purchased one (possibly now two) of the looms for private use. Samurai owns another of the looms, which is possibly used for making their zero denim, and ONI has another. The other two are used by a number of other brands.

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  • 2 weeks later...

XX-18Oz-015. Holy shit, do I need to lose a little more weight before these are going to work. Haha. Finished up my PhD early in the year (after getting fat over the last year of it) and am just getting back into shape. Probably won't wear these much until I drop 10 more pounds. Haha.

 

27556591222_d37a35fc1c_c.jpg

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cander49, what did you get your Ph. D. in?

 

It's in bioengineering, focused on computational neuroscience in relation to the mechanics deep brain stimulation, a neurosurgical treatment for parkinson's disease. I'm a postdoc in neurology now, focused on designing and developing a new neurosurgical treatment for cerebellum-based movement disorders. Just landed my first grant as a postdoc on Friday, so new jeans is a good way to celebrate (and also look more professional in lab, since my Onis are getting pretty shredded).

 

shoe and belt combo is magical 

Thanks. They're not actually matching, but they're close. Shoes are Alden whiskey shell cordovan plain toe bluchers, and the belt is Tanner Goods English bridle leather. Really want to be able to wear these jeans, so I got out for 11+ miles of running and ate a small dinner tonight. Haha. These are a great motivator to get my fat ass back in shape. :)

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It's in bioengineering, focused on computational neuroscience in relation to the mechanics deep brain stimulation, a neurosurgical treatment for parkinson's disease. I'm a postdoc in neurology now, focused on designing and developing a new neurosurgical treatment for cerebellum-based movement disorders. Just landed my first grant as a postdoc on Friday, so new jeans is a good way to celebrate (and also look more professional in lab, since my Onis are getting pretty shredded).

 

 

Congrats on the grant. I will be applying to Ph.D. programs this fall/winter in organic chemistry. Striving for drug development (cliché).

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  • 4 weeks later...

Wearing my first PBJ jeans (xx-020) today and the fit is spot on...feels snug but not uncomfortable, perfect amount of tapering. I also like the feel of it, wonder how nice they will feel after being worn in for a week or so.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Recently acquired and reviewed a pair of XX-014 Purple Face on my blog.

 

u6YXfUb.jpg

 

tl:dr Not bad, I like them, the purple can be overwhelming though!

 

I dig the PBJ cobalt denim but not the purple face. don't get me wrong, PBJ makes some amazing stuff but they also drop the occasional dud. the purple face denim has a Joker vibe about it. some guys might be able to pull it off but they're kind of an eyesore imo.

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I think they look good...I personally wouldn't wear it as purple is not my colour. If you think those are an eyesore, don't look in the worst jeans thread, you might poke your eyes out

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the purple face denim has a Joker vibe about it.

Yeah, it's not for every one. The purple is very intense in sunlight too. I'm surprised my spouse lets me wear them.

But I actually quite like them. Bit of a break from the ducks and indigos.

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speaking of PBJ, what's the general consensus on their unsanforized denim and shrinkage? I've been eyeballing the unsanforized xx-011 LHT's from BiG but don't know how much shrinkage there typically is in the waist. Is it about 1" or 2"? Otherwise, I may go with the once washed version down the road

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