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Pure Blue Japan


midnight

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Gordon let me know that the XX-009 is going to be in production later this year. Want to get my hands on some of the indigo/indigo denim and that's about the only cut that would work for me.

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He's actually still got some of the last batch in my size. Denimio also emailed with new production dates.

I have no problem ordering from either of these, heard good things about them both. Gordon especially seems to be most revered!

Wherever possible though, and much more so these days now I seem to be getting more involved, I would like my first choice to be a (sort of) local store. Hence why I intended to see if Rivet & Hide had any plans to stock them.

There are obviously exceptions - this pbj comp where they are only available as a one off, or if for example a store has insane and difficult to justify mark ups (not you Danny!) then I would have to think twice. On the whole though that's how I'm looking to play it.

Edited by Artisandenim
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Hog, those look really chilled and faded in a washed out kinda way - most surfer appropriate...

 

BigSugar, I found the 12's quite difficult to stretch anywhere other than the waist, which pinged out beyond raw almost immediately (don't know why, they are not overly tight so I don't think i'm putting that much pressure on them). My natural waist hovers around 30, here are some measurements from a tag 29.

 

                                         Raw             Soak          3 weeks

Waist                                  30                 29               31          

Front rise                            10                 9.5              9.5

Rear Rise                           14                 13.5            14 

Thigh                                  11                 10.8            11.1

Knee                                   7.2                7.2              7.2 

Hem                                     7                    7                 7

Inseam                                 34                 33               34

 

I was surprised the inseam stretched back out without any deliberate encouragement but I suppose it's from where they are close fitting, there is tension on the legs vertically too. They have been taken on a couple of fairly long bike rides and worn for at least an hour two every day. Mind you sounds like your initial break in regime is 'holistically intense' so your results could be considerably different!

 

Thanks for the breakdown Artisan! I was not kidding about the chicken leg thing so I only worry about the waist. My Strike Golds (loose weave 1000 series) stretched super easy and I take it the PBJ will behave similar. I really think the 28's are my best bet...

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No probs BigSugar.

Ps I've just seen your TFH *gulp*. Not so sure I want to be in a contest with you after all....

 

lol. Well, dont let that little ol' thing scare you off. That's just TFH denim for ya...my grandma could lay down some rad fades with that denim...  ;)

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I was in a local denim shop yesterday and came across the pbj xx05. They had it in one wash and raw, id say its in the top 3 denims ive seen in person so i am thinking of copping em. I also recently heard about denimio and pbjs contest with the xx012s. Both are super slubby but does anyone know the main differences in these models? I havemt seem the xx012 but if anyone can break down the differences it will help guide my next purchase :) thanks

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I was in a local denim shop yesterday and came across the pbj xx05. They had it in one wash and raw, id say its in the top 3 denims ive seen in person so i am thinking of copping em. I also recently heard about denimio and pbjs contest with the xx012s. Both are super slubby but does anyone know the main differences in these models? I havemt seem the xx012 but if anyone can break down the differences it will help guide my next purchase :) thanks

 

The X005 is made from the PBJ signature 14 oz. indigo denim (with un-dyed weft). The fit is slim straight so the knee and hem width are very close.

 

The X012 is from the slim tapered series of fits. It tapers in sharply at the knee and has a narrower leg opening than the X005. The denim is a double indigo with tonal stitching. Both jeans are medium to low rise as opposed to the new X015 which is a medium-high rise and slim straight fit.

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Just got the confirmation email from Denimio RE: xx-012 special edition contest - 179 involved as it stands at the moment.... Hopefully a bit of string pulling/last minute surge will secure the trip to PBJ factory prize.

 

I've also taken the opportunity to have a cheeky size up by one - my current xx-012 whilst amazing, do not lend themselves to strenuous activity. Case in point, trying to get my leg over my bike saddle - got to about 90 degrees and the jeans just went 'right that's your lot' and refused to let me raise any further. Damn glad no one was around to witness me almost toppling over with one leg cocked in the air (saved by a hedge).  If i'm going to batter the crap out of these things I thought it might help to have have 'easier articulation' :-)

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Hey man, interested to find out about your xx-012. Did they stretch out past their raw measurement in the waist?

 

edit: my bad buddy, found your measurements just on the next page. Should've looked before posting.

 

 

Just got the confirmation email from Denimio RE: xx-012 special edition contest - 179 involved as it stands at the moment.... Hopefully a bit of string pulling/last minute surge will secure the trip to PBJ factory prize.

 

I've also taken the opportunity to have a cheeky size up by one - my current xx-012 whilst amazing, do not lend themselves to strenuous activity. Case in point, trying to get my leg over my bike saddle - got to about 90 degrees and the jeans just went 'right that's your lot' and refused to let me raise any further. Damn glad no one was around to witness me almost toppling over with one leg cocked in the air (saved by a hedge).  If i'm going to batter the crap out of these things I thought it might help to have have 'easier articulation' :-)

Edited by jameslow23
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picked up a pair of the xx-012 as well and was surprised that after 2 agitated boiling hot soaks they barely shrunk. I was advised of sg1109 level shrinkage but strangely these prob only came down some in the thigh. and similar to what Artisandenim stated, the waist went back out to pre soak almost instantaneously. serves me right for not checking the thread prior...damn you impulse purchases!

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Yeah not ideal for the fit i was going for but we'll see how we go. The top block is ok atm so really hoping they don't move too much more. 

 

edit: measurements added below

 

Tag size 31

Raw (didnt measure pre soak, measurements listed online)

waist 33"

front rise 10"

back rise 14.5"

thigh 11.25"

hem 7.8"

inseam 34.5"

 

Post soaks + 1 wear

waist 32.5"

front rise 10"

back rise 14"

thigh 11"

hem 7.25"

inseam 33.5"

Edited by yodah
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Just got the confirmation email from Denimio RE: xx-012 special edition contest - 179 involved as it stands at the moment.... Hopefully a bit of string pulling/last minute surge will secure the trip to PBJ factory prize.

 

I've also taken the opportunity to have a cheeky size up by one - my current xx-012 whilst amazing, do not lend themselves to strenuous activity. Case in point, trying to get my leg over my bike saddle - got to about 90 degrees and the jeans just went 'right that's your lot' and refused to let me raise any further. Damn glad no one was around to witness me almost toppling over with one leg cocked in the air (saved by a hedge).  If i'm going to batter the crap out of these things I thought it might help to have have 'easier articulation' :-)

Knock up that number from 179 to 180 at the least, Mahoto let me in about 12-14 hours before the pre-orders were officially delivered to pbj. 

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I am interested in picking up a pair of xx-011, didn't have any left in my local store so i tried the xx-013 as it is the same silhouette. Tried a size 28, really tight above my knees but couldn't help but notice the "boot cut" look on the lower leg/calf. Fit pics i found online did not really look like they had this "boot cut" look. Can anyone verify if the xx-011 has the same silhouette as the xx-013, and whether they are actually loose in the calf? 

I am currently wearing a size 27 APC petit new standard, what size should i get for the xx-011?

Also, i would like to know the difference between pbj and japan blue, other than the higher price?

Thanks

 

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I am interested in picking up a pair of xx-011, didn't have any left in my local store so i tried the xx-013 as it is the same silhouette. Tried a size 28, really tight above my knees but couldn't help but notice the "boot cut" look on the lower leg/calf. Fit pics i found online did not really look like they had this "boot cut" look. Can anyone verify if the xx-011 has the same silhouette as the xx-013, and whether they are actually loose in the calf? 

I am currently wearing a size 27 APC petit new standard, what size should i get for the xx-011?

Also, i would like to know the difference between pbj and japan blue, other than the higher price?

Thanks

 

 

The X11, X12, X13 and new X20 are all the same slim tapered fit. They all taper in strongly at the knee. The taper continues to the hem but it is ever so slight.

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The X11, X12, X13 and new X20 are all the same slim tapered fit. They all taper in strongly at the knee. The taper continues to the hem but it is ever so slight.

 

The thigh to the knees are tight for me, but in contrast, the calves are loose. Would the initial soak counteract this?

Also, if i'm a true size 28-29, what size should i get for the 11s?

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The thigh to the knees are tight for me, but in contrast, the calves are loose. Would the initial soak counteract this?

Also, if i'm a true size 28-29, what size should i get for the 11s?

Checked out the size chart on BiG, and it seems like i'm a size 28. However i tried the 13s in 28 and they were too tight for me to even button fully.

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If the thighs and knee are to tight they are to small. This will give the feeling of the calves being to lose. If you size correctly then the taper will do its thing and the calves will feel in proportion. The difference between PBJ and Japan Blue is they are completely different brands.

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If the thighs and knee are to tight they are to small. This will give the feeling of the calves being to lose. If you size correctly then the taper will do its thing and the calves will feel in proportion. The difference between PBJ and Japan Blue is they are completely different brands.

Japan Blue is an offshoot company of Rampuya and Momotaro They tend to be more accessible price wise than Momotaro and PBJ but not necessarily up to the same level of quality. If you're looking for a slubby denim Japan Blue doesn't compare to PBJ.

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The thigh to the knees are tight for me, but in contrast, the calves are loose. Would the initial soak counteract this?

Also, if i'm a true size 28-29, what size should i get for the 11s?

 

 

It will to an extent. The jeans will slim down after the soak but on the knee will stretch back out to the raw measurement. This is particularly true of the X011 as it is a left hand twill. However, below the knee to the hem there is no pressure so the denim will shrink a little there but not stretch back out.

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The thigh to the knees are tight for me, but in contrast, the calves are loose. Would the initial soak counteract this?

Also, if i'm a true size 28-29, what size should i get for the 11s?

I have the xx-013 in sz. 28 and i'm a 28-29 as well. do yourself a favor and get a 29.. the knees/thighs/waist were incredibly tight after a hot pre-soak and wash.

 

with that said, i'm selling a sz. 28 xx-013 with roughly 4-5 months of wear if anyone's interested

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thanks guys. i'm afraid that the taper will not be enough because i have skinny calves. would sizing up to a 29 exacerbate the flared look of the calf?

If I were you man and willing to spend a little extra money, I would get whichever pair fits right on the top block and then get them professionally tapered. In your case I'm guessing that would be the 29, just keep in mind that they will stretch out some. I'm usually more concerned with getting the thigh correct and having a certain range of movement. If the waist gets too loose I merely use a belt- that's what they are there for anyways. At the end of the day though, you may just need to go with a different denim. It's not worth trying to shoehorn the wrong fit, usually you'll end up with regrets. Check out Imperial's prospector jean maybe? If that's not enough taper for you, I don't know what will be.  

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