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I bought a shirt out of necessity for $3 in Honolulu the other day and I'd say the construction was on par and while it didn't fit well at all it was still a fair sight closer to a reasonable fit than the Isaora shirt I got.

 

Also, your post basically said "They're not shit, despite their poor quality control and bad sizing and high prices..."

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Right, and I'm trying to see how labelling an XL as a S isn't shit, because even if at the end of the day the construction quality isn't that bad it really doesn't matter that much if you can't even put it on because of something their QC screwed up, does it?

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A few thoughts about a brand moving to be direct to consumer.

 

A brand that wholesales can be constrained by retailers willingness to take on new designs. If retailers don't adopt a new design it can simply die off; however, a consumer direct brand can offer whatever they want to put on the market. Outlier is an example of a brand that has taken advantage of a direct to consumer approach and offered experiment products without the need for a retailers "approval." This could help a brand innovate and iterate their offerings. 

 

Capturing more of the retail markup and eliminating sales reps commission would improve the profit margins for a brand. An improved profit margin could be used towards improving their offerings. This could be a good thing for the products. But it really depends on what they do with the increased margins.  

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I'm not trying to defend them, but since when did we buy labeled sizes over actual measurements? Is it dumb? Is it weird? Yea it sure is, but if I like something and it's labeled S, even though it fits more like a standard L or XL, and that's my size it's not gonna stop me from purchasing it. I guess I'm just used to going off actual measurements 100% of the time.

Happens pretty damn often in a lot of brands, but maybe not to this extreme.

 

This is a personal example, but I'm a smaller person. Sizing up your garments, to the point where an extra small has a 36" chest, means you've lost me as a customer even if I'm interested. However, that means they probably fit the more athletic, gym-attending guys of the world. There's two sides to it, but I'm usually a small or an xs if something runs larger, so to see that even an extra small that would be too large is disappointing.

 

 

A few thoughts about a brand moving to be direct to consumer.

 

A brand that wholesales can be constrained by retailers willingness to take on new designs. If retailers don't adopt a new design it can simply die off; however, a consumer direct brand can offer whatever they want to put on the market. Outlier is an example of a brand that has taken advantage of a direct to consumer approach and offered experiment products without the need for a retailers "approval." This could help a brand innovate and iterate their offerings. 

 

Capturing more of the retail markup and eliminating sales reps commission would improve the profit margins for a brand. An improved profit margin could be used towards improving their offerings. This could be a good thing for the products. But it really depends on what they do with the increased margins.  

 

These are valid points, and points that should be made. However, coming as a first post from a no avatar member who joined on January 4th, 2014...welcome to sufu Isaora associated person? Members of the forums really do like being able to communicate with the companies we buy from (as evidenced by our reviews/venting here and not emailing Isaora? We can get into hypocrisy another time). Sufu does a whole lot of comparison shopping, and as Tigerprawn is pointing out we'd like to see Isaora do better for the cost.

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So just throwing something really vague out there, what is the #1 thing or what are the things you guys look for in techwear pieces? What would you like to see more of?

I for one would love to see velcro sleeve tabs die a quick death. Snaps and elastic trim or binding look so much cleaner. Also, I think every jacket should have a 2 way zipper @ the center front.

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I'm working for a tech / outdoor wear design studio right now, and this stuff is all really new to me...

I have a say in the design process, but I'm more of a fashion over function type of guy and it's hard for me to get an idea of what the modern day techwear consumer is like to take into consideration when designing...

 

So just throwing something really vague out there, what is the #1 thing or what are the things you guys look for in techwear pieces? What would you like to see more of?

I feel like a lot of the design theory behind techwear is based on creating problems to solve.  Not many of the features you see are actually necessary and maybe 50-50 make the garments more convenient but they all seem like necessities for daily "urban" life because of the way companies sell these features to you.  Take a look at acronym.  Who needs magnetic earphone holders, back zips for bag-modularity, escape zips, gravity pockets for your phone, etc.  All of it is just cool stuff that adds to the aesthetic of the brand/garment.  Even gore-tex and jacket slings are not really needed if you have a bag and an umbrella.  

I guess some of the nicer things/more easily adaptable things about techwear lie within fabric tech (like schoeller, Paclite, merino) and construction/articulation (for comfort/mobility)

 

If you want to design purely functionally you may want to reference traditional outdoor apparel and subtract the things you don't need, but in the end everyday life just doesn't justify a lot of the features that "techwear" offers.

 

If you just want to cater towards the technical aesthetic:

some features are Zipperless catch pockets, modularity within your line, ergonomically placed stow units (pockets), waterproofability, blacked out hardware, "architectural" construction, all the stuff mentioned above ^, reflective materials, convertible garments, watch windows, etc.

some aesthetic/material choices are mesh, gore-tex, ninjas, schoeller, shiny fabrics, the color black, military inspiration, etc.

 

I for one would love to see velcro sleeve tabs die a quick death. Snaps and elastic trim or binding look so much cleaner. Also, I think every jacket should have a 2 way zipper @ the center front.

tbh velcro sleeves are the most convenient.  Snaps take way too long and elastic isn't as versatile.

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RE: Isaora

 

Ive got a bunch of pieces, had my issues, and anything that came up the dudes were ready to make it right at whatever cost.

 

I remain optimistic they will be able to refocus the line and put more energy and resources into what matters. 

 

At discount, their stuff is great. Sure its not going to be as good as pata or deadbird, but its not intended to be. 

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I'm working for a tech / outdoor wear design studio right now, and this stuff is all really new to me...

I have a say in the design process, but I'm more of a fashion over function type of guy and it's hard for me to get an idea of what the modern day techwear consumer is like to take into consideration when designing...

 

So just throwing something really vague out there, what is the #1 thing or what are the things you guys look for in techwear pieces? What would you like to see more of?

Any reason why you don't want to tell us who you are working for?

What do we want? Read this thread carefully, I think you'll get the idea... I myself like simple, stealth-like appearance and high quality materials.

 

 

RE: Isaora

 

At discount, their stuff is great. Sure its not going to be as good as pata or deadbird, but its not intended to be. 

I'm not sure what they are trying to be, sometimes it's Stone Island (garment dyes, arm logos), sometimes Burton or even Veilance. 

Take a look at this raincoat. It was $985! That's even more than Veilance Partition coat ($695) that's made of GTX not some vague water-resistant "double layer tech fabric". 

Some of their stuff was nice (like Head Porter collaboration) but their brand vision is all over the place and the pricing is really weird.

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Anyone got suggestions on a good looking technical mid-layer that doesn't have a damn hood? Everything has hoods these days.

I'm pretty fond of the new Veilance Dyadic for SS15:

http://www.barneys.com/on/demandware.store/Sites-BNY-Site/default/Product-Show?pid=503234208&q=veilance&index=5

 

I also love my Nike tech fleece crew, that thing just doesn't break down and crazy comfortable.

 

Did you want softshell mid-layer or insulated?

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These are valid points, and points that should be made. However, coming as a first post from a no avatar member who joined on January 4th, 2014...welcome to sufu Isaora associated person

No connection to Isaora. Just have some industry knowledge and a perspective. My comments were directed at the possibility that working direct to consumer could help a small brand improve if they take advantage of the benefits. 

 

I do think that techwear is an interesting part of the apparel world. High quality construction, technial design, and materials are things big brands can invest and experiment with (Arcteryx, Nike, North Face and Under Amour for example) where small brands are going to need to be much leaner to work in the space.

 

Something like the Nike Fly knit is an example of a piece that is the result of investment in experimentation and hightech design thinking from a big brand that I have serious doubts that a small brand could replicate.

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Anyone have any inspiration albums for hot weather urban techwear? I know it kinda goes against the aesthetic and idea of it all, but temps here are reaching the low 80s this week and next, which probably means it'll be hot from now until November and I'm tired of just phoning it in for the summer.

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I guess everybody has a different aprecciation of urban techwear but to me is not so much about form vs function dilemma but about the "technological feel", about that point when technology enters the realm of art.

Look for instance at the back of an Ipad or a Surface, theres not much ornament or fashion there but when you touch those aluminium -or magnesium - surfaces you know deep inside theres state-of-the-art tech behind then. High technology thus turns itself into a formal expression of its own development.

Those technical atributes I try to capture or reflect - as part of a narrative - in my urban clothing. It has to be minimalist, well thought, sutble, precise, polished, ergonomic, useful... with a degree of perfection in its manufacturing.

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Anyone have any inspiration albums for hot weather urban techwear? I know it kinda goes against the aesthetic and idea of it all, but temps here are reaching the low 80s this week and next, which probably means it'll be hot from now until November and I'm tired of just phoning it in for the summer.

 

A couple images (including from our very own 4exohte and Appleseed):

 

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Edited by SuE
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Hey guys, first post here, in the past couple pages i've seen all the talk about Isaora, and coincidentally just recieved my 3L Technical Shell in the mail. Thought I might do a little review/write-up on it just to voice my opinion on the coat and the company.

GalWgk0.jpg

On the surface it looks quite nice, the dark charcoal colour and the navy contrast really nicely with each other. The material is also super breathable, both the softer navy fabric and the 3L shell. I'm about 5'10" and 130lb's, buy a small in everything except t-shirts, so i got a small in this after examining the sizing chart i noticed the sizing was very weird. I bought the small and it fits like a slim large honestly, good for layering but still, i was expecting something a bit more slim fitting

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Although this picture doesnt show it well, the jacket has a slight problem of not really being able to zip up all the way near the very top. That big piece thats meant to shield the zipper actually does the opposite, just stops it from zipping up. The zippers in general also aren't very good, definitely not up to par with the YKK zips on any of my Veilance pieces

HPkkwTQ.jpg

Inside looks fairly clean from here...

4HHoAlI.jpg

However unzip it more and we get to my biggest gripe with the jacket, this little clusterfuck of pockets, it can fit my iPhone 5S and a couple cards fairly well but that space could've been used so much better. A nice large interior pocket would've been great instead of a bunch of little holders. There's even 4 pen holders for whatever reason, oh well, i'm sure that i'll find a use for them when i go hiking.

vJ2ZBYs.jpg

In general though, the inside just looks really sloppy, there's a lot going on, way more in there than it should be. On the plus the pockets are really warm.

LgQeaou.jpg

Velcro cuff that's surprisingly nice, especially with how long the sleeves are. Still would've preferred button closure, like on some Veilance pieces, or just a little elastic.

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These little mesh vents beside the pockets, i never used them but when it gets warmer they might be quite nice.

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http://i.imgur.com/A3XaueR.jpg

And a fit with it. In general, despite the criticisms, i'm happy with it. For the sale price of $395 or so there probably aren't many jackets that can beat it as far as 3L shells go. But, the retail of $800ish was ridiculous, and the Isaora pricing now is much better.

I think that if they find a brand base (techwear or snowboarding gear) and stick with it, they could make some really solid gear.

Edited by MythicSquirrel
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