Urban Techwear

[Nebulae]

Is it odd that I immediately thought of urban techwear while watching the new Star Trek movie?

Some of the panelling definitely feels very tech, esp with the transparent triangular bits around the collarbones

Can't really recall any other specific details off the top of my head but I had the same feeling.

[mike lowrey]

More contemporarily Carol Christian Poell, Iris Van Herpen, Nicolas Ghesquière and Boris Bidjan Saberi all really deserve to be in the fashion/tech section. The first three because they are clearly pushing the technology far harder than the rest, and BBS because he's bringing a major skate/streetwear influence in (plus he's a killer patternmaker who clearly thinks a lot about motion).

 

Are we talking about techwear as in clothing with technical features, or clothing which is manufactured using some technically advanced methods, but doesn't perform any differently than any other similar clothing? personally I consider techwear as the former, but all the designers you mentioned fall into the latter.

[Abe1x]

Are we talking about techwear as in clothing with technical features, or clothing which is manufactured using some technically advanced methods, but doesn't perform any differently than any other similar clothing? personally I consider techwear as the former, but all the designers you mentioned fall into the latter.

Should have been clearer, was really mentioning those for the "runway fashion" section. Regardless I think they are all important to mention because tech evolves by dialogue and the fashion designers pushing the tech are just as much a part of it as the tech designers doing fashion. Sometimes it's the tech side leading (like Arc' inventing water resistant zippers) but other times it someone like Van Herpen leading when she's doing 3D printed haute couture with MIT fluid dynamics scientists.

On a patternmaking level the stuff becomes clearer. The stuff Veilance, Acronym and to some extent Crye are doing is closely related to what CCP, BBS and Rick Owens are doing.

[Dressed Down]

Thanks for all of the suggestions and discussion.  I'll be adding many of the brand suggestions that have been made.

 

Abe, regarding technical garment history and heritage brands, I didn't delve into that as I don't really think I can do it justice.  While a few people have been displeased with the series, at the very least I thought it was a good introduction, and when talking about basic technical aspects, accurate.  If I do a section on history, it would be quite a while (a month, maybe two) before I'd be comfortable posting something because I'd be starting from absolute zero and constantly reorienting the article as I really researched it properly.

Edited May 20, 2013 by Dressed Down

[Monkfish]

This seems to be the best place to ask. I'm looking for a new rucksack for snowboarding that I could also use for everyday use and short breaks. I don't want to look like I am going on an expedition to Everest or the vanguard of an invasion force whilst on a long weekend to london. Thanks for any advice and tips.

Edited May 22, 2013 by Monkfish

[readytoignite]

Surprised not to see any mention of Neil Barrett & Puma 96 Hours. Barrett launched Prada Menswear and Prada Sport as such really was the key designer in Techwear's most populist moment. His own label is still going strong although it hasn't particularly evolved much since 2000. He did a bunch of designs for Puma 96 Hours along with Chalayan and Vexed Generation. I guess this line was guilty of bad timing, it was very deliberately an urban techwear line right at the nadir of the style in the mid 00s, but that aside it's pretty much an essential mention.

 

Yes I 100% agree.  Puma in general was way in front with the Platinum stuff and the Jil Sander collaboration (avant la lettre).  they were so confused as to how to sell it though - you could buy platinum at the soho flagship as well as barneys and i think the 96 hours only through a handful of brick and mortar retailers incl the new 14th st store.  i wanted to get one but couldn't - if they had figured out how to sell online it may have been more successful.

 

do you remember the samsonite black label apparel line? a total dog in the us but i think it was moderately successful in europeland

 

btw glad to hear a shoutout to prada sport, there wasn't anything else like it at the turn of the century.  i still have a goretex parka i bought for like $180 in milan around the time of the euros debut and it's still the perfect tech overcoat when i'm wearing a suit.  always thought outlier's aesthetics seemed partially informed by prada but more advanced... standing on the shoulders of giants and all that?

[aso2004]

Any Kiwi's out there using Swandri ??

I know it's more farmland  tech wear but their new Dualcore knitwear sounds really nice.

I found that sizing it down gives a nice enough fit..

I also want to give their three layer fleece a try..

Any one had it in their hands yet ??

[aso2004]

This seems to be the best place to ask. I'm looking for a new rucksack for snowboarding that I could also use for everyday use and short breaks. I don't want to look like I am going on an expedition to Everest or the vanguard of an invasion force whilst on a long weekend to london. Thanks for any advice and tips.

 You could probably use anything you want but just make sure it has a waist strap.

Nothing worse to ruin your ride with a powder turn with you going one way and your backpack the other.

I have seen guys get stuck in chest deep powder because of it

The likely candidates are Burton and Dakine,  in between them they have every size possible and most have carrying straps for your board. I hardly use them but I found them handy on some occasions.

More pleasing to the the eye are Arc'teryx and Osprey...

But then again take your pick..

[brooks_]

Since I know there's a couple more fans around here, Amazon has Ex-Officio boxer briefs (just the black ones) for $13 right now. Buy two pairs to qualify for free shipping, essentially a 2 for 1 deal.

[shoreman]

How does SISP fit? I get the impression from HAVEN's measurement table that they're quite slim/small.

[TEKsevenZERO]

How does SISP fit? I get the impression from HAVEN's measurement table that they're quite slim/small.

Alot does fit quite small, italian sizing I reckon, If you are a normal USA XL then you need to size up.

 

So, they generally do fit about a size smaller than the label says.

I have had a dozen or so pieces and found this to be 95% accurate.

[shoreman]

I'm a pretty average North American Build and I think I think I'm going to have to try an XL in the oxford shirts. 

 

Oh, and if you guys have a chance to grab a pair of the NB x Stone Island kicks, you definitely should. Sure, it will cost you an obscene amount, but they really are phenomenal. 

[SuE]

A

[SuE]

What's the best proxy/reshipping for Japanese shops?

[scamster]

TresUnCool if you're a medium in veilance you'll probably want a large in si:sp.

[Industry]

Anyone have experience with the fit of SWRVE Light WWR Shorts? http://swrve.myshopify.com/products/lightweight-wwr-shorts

 

I wear 31 and measure 34" waist, site says TTS and no vanity. Main concern is the thigh, I wear straight chinos and Levis 508s. I measure about 22" mid thigh.

[kH0yA Sw@Gp0o]

^interesting pocket layout but imho look very slim x_x

that aside seeing as a lot of the folks in this thread liked nike free alt closure run 

available on caliroots

Edited May 27, 2013 by gndm

[aso2004]

That pocket placement on the swrve shorts would probably bring imbalance.

your reaching in sideways, while going straight.

So you create a new center of gravity,almost like making a turn..

If it was meant that you could sit huddled over,the should have put some extra fabric on it.. 

These are a better alternative ..http://www.rapha.cc/touring-shorts-1-2

[Industry]

Broke down and got some Three Ways in Navy.

 

Those Frees look pretty sick, not the biggest fan of that black texture. Got some Flyknits coming in today.

Edited May 29, 2013 by Industry

[undercover73]

Selling a pair of Stone Island Shadow pants if anyone is interested.

 

http://supertalk.superfuture.com/index.php?/topic/147682-visvim-thread-highwaters-social-sculpture-virgils-sunny-sports-margiela/#entry2922477

[einstine]

How does SISP fit? I get the impression from HAVEN's measurement table that they're quite slim/small.

Haven is pretty accurate on sizing, there model is really thin though, so I would put that into consideration.

[einstine]

Barneys is having a sale on some awesome garments including veilance, some pretty good deals.

[readytoignite]

How does SISP fit? I get the impression from HAVEN's measurement table that they're quite slim/small.

It's std for a European designer fit so if you're a 46 you're most likely a small etc. If you've never bought European designer clothes and are comparing to, say, the North Face then yes you may need to adjust size accordingly

[sensible shoes]

$

Edited November 16, 2017 by sensible shoes
$

[dutchblack]

So I am on a never end quest to find an acronym ws-j25 jacket in a size medium or a large. I have turned up nothing. Is there anything else out there similar? Small, packable, and waterproof. 

[TEKsevenZERO]

@ Sensible Shoes :

 

What about the Isa Ora Nano tech blazer ?

 

Or try looking at the Arc'teryx Veillance Windshell for something more on the outdoor side of things.

 

Both are around the price you state

[dutchblack]

@ Sensible Shoes :

 

What about the Isa Ora Nano tech blazer ?

 

Or try looking at the Arc'teryx Veillance Windshell for something more on the outdoor side of things.

 

Both are around the price you state

Hey thanks for the suggestions. I would like something with a hood. I will check out  arc'teryx's to see what they have. I have one of their node jackets and its nice. However, I really like all the features of acronyms stuff.

[shoreman]

Yeah...I used to find Acronym to be completely over the top. Funny thing is, I actually use most of these damn pockets. Have yet to delve into jacket territory and still have no idea how to securely attach a pouch to their bags... (<--Urban Techwear confession?)

 

The Isaora Nano Tech Blazer is a sharp looking piece. Props for bring it to my attention. Made in USA like a lot of their other items?

[dutchblack]

I find Acronyms current line over the top. The detachable arm thing is high fashion/high concept. I would never use it. Not to mention that it looks foolish. I was hoping they would do another version of the ws-j25 because it's functional and beautiful. 

[dutchblack]

I should also mention that I own the DS-HD2 hoody and the DS-J12TS and love them both. The jacket sling is one of my favorite apparel features ever. I would love the find the WS-J25 and the SS-J25 is a size medium. My outerwear collection will be complete for a long long time.