Denim Repair

[julian-wolf 8,209]

@ColonelAngus Yep, always the first repair I have to do on Levi’s—left pocket, for me, also (presumably) because of keys

Posted a sort of how-to a few pages ago for this method—pretty straightforward & has yet to require any extra maintenance down the line

[Broark 16,995]

Tried my hand at reinforcing one of the button holes on my FW S601. We'll see how they hold up, I'm not great with a needle and thread!
Before:

After:

[lance 127,815]

Nice Work, Broark!

[chicote 5,064]

Getting around to some more repairs on my tcb 40s, this time on the front pockets (and soon the left knee, then the back left pocket, for the third time…)

I did this repair before going back and reading @julian-wolf’s excellent tutorial on this exact job, using a sewing machine and some clever fabric adhesive. It’s in the middle of page 43 in case anybody wants to go take a look. This is going to be more or less the same process, but by hand and about three months too late, lol.

Three months too late in that I’ve basically torn the whole top of the pocket open and have to constantly make a deliberate effort to not drop my keys, lighters, etc down my pant leg and into the top of my boots. Don’t get to this point before doing this repair if you can avoid it!

So, a smart thing to do, which Julian properly got around to in his repair, is to start with a curved patch, made by tracing and folding the patch fabric along the contour of the pocket itself. I didn’t do this, I just used a scrap of selvedge fabric from my lovely donor mis-sized Tenders, which are now about 30% reconstituted as patches for other pairs of jeans. The result of using a straight cut of fabric, rather than following the contour of the pocket, will become apparent by the end.

I’m using the end of this gold thread which is moderately thick, I’d reckon about the same gauge as what’s used on a lot of our jeans here. The benefit of using a thick thread, besides it being stronger, is you don’t need to double it up - you can just pass the needle through the center of the thread, pull it tight against the base of the needle, and not have to worry about it coming out while working.

Starting here with a chainstitch at one end of the patch, just holding the folded edge against the seam here and pushing through the holes made by the existing stitches. Even though I’m technically sewing through 6 layers of denim here, if you get your needle right in the hole made by the existing stitches you shouldn’t have to fight it at all, and it’ll slip straight into the patch fabric on the other side. I’m not sure i’d be up for this repair if it meant wearing my fingers out yanking the needle through all 6 layers every stitch, so working slowly and with precision is really worth it here.

Worked my way across now and am going to tuck the end of the thread behind the patch, knot it and start with a new length of thread, once I figure out where to start. The process of patching the bag itself is going to be a lot messier and less precise, mainly because of the options I have for holding the fabric together.

I figured since the hole is easier to get at on this side, I’d better start with the jeans right side out and the pocket pulled out, with the seam of the pocket turned over as well. Here’s what that looks like with the patch folded back over:

 

I went at it for a little bit this way, with my left hand working inside the pocket bag to keep it flush against the patch, and my right pushing the needle through in a straight-ish line, zig zagging back and forth through both layers like how you’d do a basting stitch. Saves a lot of time in these sort of situations when you just want to get fabric stuck together and aren’t worried about how it looks.

 

Once I had one row of stitches in, I realized it would be much easier to turn the jeans inside out and keep the pocket right side in - that way I could see the hole in the pocket bag and concentrate my stitching where it would actually matter. If you can’t tell, I’m not much one for day-long denim repairs anymore, especially when this is the first of five patches I’m gonna need to get to. This was about an hour of work and felt about as thorough as I cared to be - given these jeans might not last a whole lot longer anyhow. But who knows.

And here’s the finished product seen from the outside. I know, not much to look at, lol, but there’s one important thing to note. Because I didn’t curve my patch panel, the pocket bag and patch pucker inwards inside the pocket. Or, held another way, the pocket itself sits a bit open, rather than flush against the coin pocket as it was originally sewn. Again, I don’t mind this really as these are getting pretty beat up anyway, but I’m going to employ julian’s patch making method for the other pocket and would probably recommend you do too. Thanks for reading!

[crownzip 570,624]

My sister has some mad skills at repairing the pocket bags of a pair of old San Antonio made LVC '47's. Back in the day, LVS had notorious weak pocket bags. 

[Geeman 3,785]

Sent my FC into soldier blue for crotch stich repair,  they did a cracking job.

 

Also on the subject of Soldier Blue and the SOAS team,  I first went there years ago (more than I care to remember! ) and left not feeling very happy with the service. But I have to say after getting to know Rudy and Linda better over the last couple years via purchases and general chit chat they are a great team/shop. Genuinely good people.

Example: Last October I bought some Paraboot from them. As I have far to many shoes, boots and sneakers they didn't get a lot of wear. Fast forward to Feb 22 and after about 3 wears I noticed the leather covering the seam on the top of the seam (the horseshoe bit) was a bit wonky and was not flush to the shoe. After shooting them an email, 6 months after buying them, they arranged FOC to get them shipped back to them for them to send to Paraboot so they could deal with the customs stuff, liaised directly with PB, shipped back to them and then back to me. Rudy dropped me a couple text messages to keep me updated etc. 

There's another couple of rather long (boring) anecdotes I could give but you get the point 

[Dr_Heech 568,654]

My experiences with Soas were one good, one bad.

Went to them with my Sc47's (with arcs) and Bartack jeans (old 90's jap repros) and got both pairs hemmed. Dan was the guy that did the job and he was awesome. Very professional execution. 

Second visit, Dan was away (wife expecting) so l entrusted Rudy with my 2 pairs to be hemmed, my  (now @Flash's) CSF WW2's and some FW47's l bought via @Duke Mantee 's mate, Seiichiro). We chatted for a while first - seemed like a really decent fella. When it came to hemming the results were well below what l expected: the folded over/half-selvege on the CSF pair were a botch job, and the FW's now have one leg slightly shorter than the other  (albeit not noticeable when wearing).

Hence my joy at discovering Soldier Blue and Clutch cafe as alternatives.

 

Edited September 10, 2022 by Dr_Heech

[Hopethisoneisnttaken 2,018]

Here’s a nice little interview with Matt Rho about boro repairs. It’s from a while back but still an interesting read. He sort of vanished from social media platforms after that, and I think his plans never happened which is a shame. I wonder why was that. 
 

http://someone-else.us/stories/matt-rho-boro-denim-repair/

Edited September 22, 2022 by Hopethisoneisnttaken

[rockon99 448,916]

Helloooo — it’s nearing time to have these joints repaired. I’ve only ever had hems and full crotch holes done through Self Edge PDX, while I prefer to have smaller repairs done by a local shop or handstitched by myself. 
 

I’ve been aware (and on the mailing list) of Indigo Proof for quite some time, though have never applied for her work. I’m curious if anyone with experience can recommend one over the other, as I’m expecting Rain’s books to open up soon and would consider applying. 

 

as you may notice, the crotch is getting quite thin, and the multi-layered center seam has started to come undone. 

Edited February 22 by rockon99
Added text