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Would really love a j28 or j1a in the e fabric. Want something light weight that I can put on for everyday use with mezzanine front pockets. Hopefully they make more jackets in e in general for the upcoming seasons 

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my j16-GT has delimitation in a few areas after only one wash :( how common is this? are there any home remedies? 

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J28 in DS (dust) would be a dream come true

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For true inner-membrane delam., there is no remedy. Would be uncommon 'after only one wash' - but if you've been wearing the jacket heavily since new and this is the first time cleaning, then that's your answer. Most delamination is caused by sweat/oil.

Seam tape delam. can be fixed w/ appropriate adhesives.

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General rule of thumb—at least that's what I've been doing with the shells I wear for cycling—is to wash jackets every two weeks if they're in use to prevent that.

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2 hours ago, Flipflop214 said:

J28 in DS (dust) would be a dream come true

J28A?!DS

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2 hours ago, Flipflop214 said:

J28 in DS (dust) would be a dream come true

price tags coming true too ;)

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sort of tempted to try some E fabric after these talk.

How does color fastness turn out for black E? does it fade like Stotz? 

Has anyone experience pilling of their p10ae, as there was one member here introduced the fabric, saying E pills fking crazy. 

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I've experienced zero pilling so far with the P10A-E and I've worn them ~15 times. Would be more as I love the material but I've only worn P30A-DS since I got them lol

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I've worn P10A-E 20-25 times already, no pilling at all. Love the fabric. Haven't had issues with color fading yet, unlike my Veilance pants that faded so bad I had to rit dye them after a season.

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the two things that pill epic glacier something fierce are velcro and heavier denier nylons found in gear (straps, pack surfaces). on pants used in a city context it's probably not as pronounced of a  problem. 

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Hopefully it doesn't fade (or wear) like epic cotton. 

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out of three epic glacier jackets i used to own i have one left and it's quite pilled but it hasn't faded in any noticeable way. nylon tends to be really colorfast.

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I’ve worn my P10A-E HEAVILY since purchase and just did first wash/dry yesterday. Zero signs of pilling. 

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12 hours ago, Yardsale said:

I've worn P10A-E 20-25 times already, no pilling at all. Love the fabric. Haven't had issues with color fading yet, unlike my Veilance pants that faded so bad I had to rit dye them after a season.

Same here. I have worn the pants 4 weeks more or less in a row. no pilling, no color fading (alpha green) and it is really a joy to wear them. so light and comfortable. fav piece from this year drops.

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Just want to add that it is a possibility for the new E to pill. When I received my J33 there was a single pill, very tiny (almost microscopic) and hard to notice but it was there.

Might just be a one-off or factory issue, but thought I might add.

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Anyone tried both P25 and P27? Wanna get one for a lady friend, wondering what differences there are in drape, fit and utility/details.

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37 minutes ago, ∂rake said:

Anyone tried both P25 and P27? Wanna get one for a lady friend, wondering what differences there are in drape, fit and utility/details.

Hi, its me your lady friend. :) 

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On 7/15/2019 at 3:48 PM, Cornuto said:

I'm a 36" waist/6' tall and sizing down to a L from my usual XL worked out perfectly. I would be hesitant to go down to a M unless I could try them on first.

I ended up finding one used and this was the exact right advice, sized down one! thanks all.

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13 hours ago, ∂rake said:

Anyone tried both P25 and P27? Wanna get one for a lady friend, wondering what differences there are in drape, fit and utility/details.

they drape very differently imo, the p25 is a full length trouser with a huge drop, but loose enough to walk without restriction. like it a lot. however i have stopped wearing them in favour of the P27 because it has a perfect drop (same as p30), not too deep, great for everyday use, doesn't trap as much heat as the p25 (due to smaller volume). utility wise, their pockets are the same, i don't really like how when airpod case or keys go into the deeper pockets for either cut, as you end up sitting on them (elastic stretchy nature of DS contributes to this, deeper pockets work great on stotz models that have them like p23)

at the end of the day it's a simple difference in aesthetics. styling wise the p27 looks great with low cut sneakers and even dress shoes, while the p25 looks best with the DAF-1 (MY OPINION) both are GREAT with sock sneakers from Rick if you're into mixing that way. i wear my p27 with sock Ricks, flyknit racers, brogues, vapor maxes (ACRNM ones of course!!!) and the like, and my p25 with predominantly DAF-1s or acr prestos

both work great with sandals for warmer weather too

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The difference between the p25 and p27 when you lay them flattened out on top of each other is actually really small. the p25 is obviously a little longer (10-15 cm hip to cuff / 15-20 cm deeper crotch), apart from that the pants are identical. Despite this marginal length difference the pants look really different when worn. The p27 looks more suited for summer but you can easily wear them with tights underneath in colder conditions. 

Fits:
- No skinny shirts, at least I look awkward with it. Boxy/oversized shirts work best.
- Both pants will fit pretty well with shorter shells, bombers and also mid length coats / car coats.
- Shoe-wise I agree with moneytalks. I have been wearing all kind of flyknits, ramones, qasa highs (p25 only), DAF1s, suicokes.

Downsides:
- 100% agree with the moneytalks airpod skirmish.
- Because of the flowy low resistance behaviour of DS and the roomy cut, you should not load the pockets with too much stuff. It makes some real awkward sounds. If I put my airpods or keys behind the phone pocket it goes clonk, clonk, clonk... use your 3a!
- Also you better dont try to take a dump on a public toilet. Your pants would be everywhere over the floor.
- Normbobs wont understand what the fuck you are wearing, especially p25.


Obviously I like both pants a lot, but if i had to choose: p25 - 10 out of 10 times. 

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Great analysis. I have quite a few Acronym pants and the P25 as well and someone else said it best: they don't move with you, they move around you.

I think they capture the personality, fit and drape of the pants perfectly. They are my favorite pant, with the P10 second and the P23 third.

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What’s up guys, finally had enough time to post my P24A-S, SS18 that I had tailored. I was inspired by a pair of Stone Island pants from a few seasons ago. They were made with an inch of elastic placed on the back half of the hem. And with me being 6’2, my pin roll could only be two rolls high. Which led to the pin roll unraveling over a short amount of time. Unless I wore boots or high top sneakers, then I could roll 3 times and it wouldn’t be too short. 

 

So after dealing with the sloppy roll for about a year, I finally researched someone I felt comfortable with; not only tapering them and adding the elastic, but also bringing in the waist a total of one inch. I felt even more comfortable after showing him the complexity of the pants and then him confidently stating the specificities of the work needed to be done. For the waist, he would have to undo the 2-3 layers of the reinforcement fabric and then simply cut and adjust from there (He said afterwards that was the most difficult part). For the taper, he started right under the reinforced knee and ended with a 5”/5.5” opening (I forget exactly). Either way it’s a pretty tight fit/taper. So much so, that without the elastic I wouldn’t be able to take the pants on or off. Which would make the referenced SI pants closer to a 6” opening. 

 

Even after having my confidence built up enough to trust someone with a pair of $1000+ pants, when picking them up I felt a little nervous as to what the outcome was gonna look like. But upon first sight, I couldn’t wipe the smile off my face. 

 

The up close details; the stitches, straight and clean, reinforced in the right places. The back of the waist band where he cut into, all of the layers of fabric look as if they hadn’t been ripped apart and then meticulously put back together. The joining of the elastic and cotton (even though I took my SI pants home with me) looked exactly like the joining on the SI pants. Oh and the kicker, I forgot to discuss this with him beforehand but he mentioned that he noticed how tall I was, so he didn’t cut any away from the hem. Simply just pressed, tucked and stitched down the existing hem, as well as the extra fabric from the tapered leg. That’s important to me because when it comes time to recycling the trousers, I can mention to the next owner that the leg can be reverted to original (but why would I give these up and why would YOU undo this perfect fit ;). 

 

So as you can see from the fit pics, they drop perfectly now. Without any pin roll, the silhouette from the tight waist, down to the arched out hips and then slowly tapering down from there into the 5.5” taper, culminate into the perfect “wide” fitting pants. For me at least. 

 

Tired of typing now, so if I missed anything I’ll edit. But if you live in NYC, my guys name is Atef and the company name is Tailoring NYC, highly recommend. 

 

Enjoy the fit pics. 

002061C1-6EFA-48BD-863C-3E1FD69CC9EE.jpeg

208EA9E3-4C40-47FB-A2ED-1E91D37010D6.jpeg

65CFDFC5-94BE-45FF-AEB9-529F4B47DAEC.jpeg

B60C9B64-95D1-4165-99B9-7AFEDD1121B2.jpeg

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, biginjapan said:

What’s up guys, finally had enough time to post my P24A-S, SS18 that I had tailored. I was inspired by a pair of Stone Island pants from a few seasons ago. They were made with an inch of elastic placed on the back half of the hem. And with me being 6’2, my pin roll could only be two rolls high. Which led to the pin roll unraveling over a short amount of time. Unless I wore boots or high top sneakers, then I could roll 3 times and it wouldn’t be too short. 

 

So after dealing with the sloppy roll for about a year, I finally researched someone I felt comfortable with; not only tapering them and adding the elastic, but also bringing in the waist a total of one inch. I felt even more comfortable after showing him the complexity of the pants and then him confidently stating the specificities of the work needed to be done. For the waist, he would have to undo the 2-3 layers of the reinforcement fabric and then simply cut and adjust from there (He said afterwards that was the most difficult part). For the taper, he started right under the reinforced knee and ended with a 5”/5.5” opening (I forget exactly). Either way it’s a pretty tight fit/taper. So much so, that without the elastic I wouldn’t be able to take the pants on or off. Which would make the referenced SI pants closer to a 6” opening. 

 

Even after having my confidence built up enough to trust someone with a pair of $1000+ pants, when picking them up I felt a little nervous as to what the outcome was gonna look like. But upon first sight, I couldn’t wipe the smile off my face. 

 

The up close details; the stitches, straight and clean, reinforced in the right places. The back of the waist band where he cut into, all of the layers of fabric look as if they hadn’t been ripped apart and then meticulously put back together. The joining of the elastic and cotton (even though I took my SI pants home with me) looked exactly like the joining on the SI pants. Oh and the kicker, I forgot to discuss this with him beforehand but he mentioned that he noticed how tall I was, so he didn’t cut any away from the hem. Simply just pressed, tucked and stitched down the existing hem, as well as the extra fabric from the tapered leg. That’s important to me because when it comes time to recycling the trousers, I can mention to the next owner that the leg can be reverted to original (but why would I give these up and why would YOU undo this perfect fit ;). 

 

So as you can see from the fit pics, they drop perfectly now. Without any pin roll, the silhouette from the tight waist, down to the arched out hips and then slowly tapering down from there into the 5.5” taper, culminate into the perfect “wide” fitting pants. For me at least. 

 

Tired of typing now, so if I missed anything I’ll edit. But if you live in NYC, my guys name is Atef and the company name is Tailoring NYC, highly recommend. 

 

Enjoy the fit pics. 

Not something I would want to do to my p24a-s, but definitely share your pain with the pin roll issue. Also the workmanship looks great, wish I had a tailor like that. 

Edited by lxkhor

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Posted (edited)

This fit is flames bruh. Now inspired to get 24as and get them tailored. Amazing work by your tailor and thanks for sharing. 

Edited by segue
Cut

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Posted (edited)

On the topic of p24a-s 
I wondering if I could get some opinions on this.

Recently picked up a pair of p24a-s sz M 2nd hand. Measured the outseam to be about 101-2cm versus the 105cm from site(and another owner with a sz M pair) . Seller adamantly claims they haven't been altered.
Just wondering if anyone else had sizing issues or if its just QC issues on acrs end of things with the ss18 p24a-s

Cheers :) 


note the wonky stitching line 20190726_081647.jpg

Edited by Carlyle

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Posted (edited)

Restock on acrnm (p10a, p31, j36)

Edited by Yan90

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p10ae sure is tempting

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