Acronym.

[appolez 18]

I mean, at least with pricing, there is some sort of perverse consistency in what E's doing. 

He justified last season's price increases as being connected to paying fair wages in Europe.  Now, we see a reduced price J1A with production in China. 

This, of course, ignores the hypocrisy of the social commentary he provides/retweets constantly. 

[CARLOOA 2,023]

4 minutes ago, appolez said:

I mean, at least with pricing, there is some sort of perverse consistency in what E's doing. 

He justified last season's price increases as being connected to paying fair wages in Europe.  Now, we see a reduced price J1A with production in China. 

This, of course, ignores the hypocrisy of the social commentary he provides/retweets constantly. 

It’s like €300 more than the 2016 version. 

[Flipflop214 1,881]

E’s mood 

https://youtu.be/PBwAxmrE194

[CARLOOA 2,023]

25 minutes ago, Flipflop214 said:

E’s mood 

https://youtu.be/PBwAxmrE194

It’s €rro£$on now. 

[nigel1 52]

Wow now that's and €pic L.

[strikethrough 146]

3 hours ago, deathrazr said:

I don't know the exact amount but the UPS rep said it's over $600CAD. meaning full duties + provincial tax will be applied if the garment is made in China and not EU.

Looks like the party is over for us Canadians...

1 hour ago, CARLOOA said:

Domestic or foreign production does not really mean anything inherent with regard to quality but moving abroad suggests something about E's business ethics. Honestly, I can’t believe my mans. I guess there's a reality where actual production limitation with machinery/tooling are the proximate cause of the move. Without more, I'm not going to be that naïve. For Errolson to retweet William Gibson religiously and express sympathy to the liberal causes of living wages and ethical capitalism especially concerning the clothing business, the move seems craven. Not like anyone really cared about the production though.

I had the impression that this was a red line E wouldn't cross but I guess not.

[CARLOOA 2,023]

double posted.

Edited March 2, 2019 by CARLOOA

[GRiZzLY 2]

Made in China confirmed. Someone asked him on Instagram.

[X.bee 552]

Acronym made by sx3am

[Kamikaze 3,823]

6 hours ago, Voyager said:

Update: I like it.

Sorry folks.

Initial thoughts? 

[junkie_dolphin 553]

China is no longer particularly cheap for manufacturing, especially compared to poorer countries like the Philippines. The bigger issue is finding people who can actually do what you need them to do (at least here in Canada).

Given last year’s prices, it doesn’t surprise me that they’d go looking for another place to manufacture—and the J1A specifically presents the best oportunity, because it’s a relatively static product—we know it’s coming back, like the 3a-1, and unlike some of the more experimental pieces.

4 hours ago, gosgjkaj said:

E says they are working on a "cheap" product line hopefully will come out soon and you should expect all of them made in China.

Was this buried in the insta replies or something? Haven’t heard anything myself.

[dranoelsy 497,916]

Got a big hunch production move is related to Hamcus.. heard from a friend that they operate their own factory in China (E visited their showroom in Paris recently)

Given the complexity of producing acrnm and seeing how Hamcus is constructed this would make sense

I wanna see some pix of production quality before making any judgements

[RapGameTaylorSwift 107]

Received mine today. I did find a QC sticker in each of the front pockets...

[Xu Jianfeng 1,821]

That’s would be a long story and I’m so far a 50 50 towards it as a 100 made in China dude. And some information is properly out as current situation.

1. Any concerns about build quality would basically unnecessary.  Some factory are being  in the field for decades, for all these outdoor big names etc, or for premium material based brand as visvim, the oem factory was a long term term. You might wonder why so these fake shit came from nowhere rapidly, me too until a heard fake Guerilla taking advantages from previous oem factory for north face( no surprise) and advices from the workers.

2.Workfare would not be dramatically changed compared to CZ as I believed the factory and workers meet the acrnm standard costs around 850 euro(insuranced), also the working time is bit flexible, which really is,  and definitely not be the foxcom one hopefully. However, threat to Acrnm team really is, they most likely not be directly copied like they used to be in tabao, but in an even worse, or you name a better way? That the pattern was copied heavy ass. This happens in Visvim OEM factory and not a rare thing.

3. When asked why Germany as birthplace as the brand, I might recall dude quite honest answer that the healthy balance of costs and industry’s heritage benefit the whole output. However during the merino and leather period, production was also heavily take place in japan, and Tilak for definitely help a lot sharing its pattern like j7 or j20 and many more, and at last a own factory. Then again the move sounds a reasonable thinking after years, and why it’s make sense that j1a was a solid update that huge references would transfer to China’s factory. What’s too surprise me is they using their alpha and omega model testing water, but then again, make sense at a scale of economy, I still recall assumes a total 1000 pieces 2.0 was made, compared with normal total 300 pieces( not confirmed anywhere, just guess, but you know me). For 2.2, I kind believe the order was hiking into 1500 pieces as xs for a thing.

4. Pure personal meme, but that be a super funny you might also feeling that.
In China there be some meme around dude wearing mixture of Bruce Lee(material arts way) or Jet Li as the brand ambassador and Chairman mao the subtle military uniform way, this style was called”Zhong Hua Li Ling”, was originally a commercial from the local brand “Seven“, means Chinese standup collar. 
I myself was always lurking for E guide king boxing design, and at last a stand up collar j1a Version came up and finally produced in China, not bad hah.

Edited March 2, 2019 by Xu Jianfeng

[RodG 6]

$428 duties on the J1A in the US is a big oof. My last acrnm purchase wasn't even close to that much tax. Has anyone ever had luck getting an adjustment on that with UPS? 6201.99.8030 should still work right? GT is man-made fiber and it'd fall under 'anorak, windbreaker, and similar articles', but would I have to prove that?

As for the jacket itself, I like the folded down collar way more than I thought I would, and the look with the hood attached less than I thought I would. With the hood on I think I prefer the old look. The logo tape seems a bit far back, but I'm also used to vertical logo tape. All the details I have checked so far (hardware, seam tape, zipper pulls etc.,) have seemed equivalent or purposefully different (shiny vs not shiny zips) from my J28. Though I do think the sling is a bit stiffer and more coarse than that of the J28 (but I'm not sure how much wear has to do with that). I've noticed that the hand pockets have like a dart (??) to provide more fabric/space on the inside, which is cool. I don't know if old models had that or not but the J28 doesn't for sure.

 

I could keep going, but the rest of my opinions really only have to do with comparing it to the only other acronym jacket I have so I'll leave that to be continued later.

Any requests for detail pics?

Edited March 2, 2019 by RodG

[deathrazr 70]

2 minutes ago, RodG said:

$428 duties on the J1A in the US is a big oof. My last acrnm purchase wasn't even close to that much tax. Has anyone ever had luck getting an adjustment on that with UPS? 6201.99.8030 should still work right? GT is man-made fiber and it'd fall under 'anorak, windbreaker, and similar articles', but would I have to prove that?

As for the jacket itself, I like the folded down collar way more than I thought I would, and the look with the hood attached less than I thought I would. With the hood on I think I prefer the old look. The logo tape seems a bit far back, but I'm also used to vertical logo tape. All the details I have checked so far (hardware, seam tape, zipper pulls etc.,) have seemed equivalent or purposefully different (shiny vs not shiny zips) from my J28. Though I do think the sling is a bit stiffer and more coarse than that of the J28 (but I'm not sure how much wear has to do with that). I've noticed that the hand pockets have like a dart (??) to provide more fabric/space on the inside, which is cool. I don't know if old models had that or not but the J28 doesn't for sure.

  

I could keep going, but the rest of my opinions really only have to do with comparing it to the only other acronym jacket I have so I'll leave that to be continued later.

Any requests for detail pics?

Does the face fabric feel any different compared to other GT jackets you handled with? Judging from the product photos (taken down on mothersite now), it looked more like a stotz jacket in my eyes. or maybe its just me.

[Kamikaze 3,823]

Still 5050 on the collar as well. Looks fine without the hood but will be worn with it most the time. Any other updates on the jacket worth noting? 

[RodG 6]

20 minutes ago, deathrazr said:

Does the face fabric feel any different compared to other GT jackets you handled with? Judging from the product photos (taken down on mothersite now), it looked more like a stotz jacket in my eyes. or maybe its just me.

Identical to the J28 imo. Similar to most other GTPro, though I don't own any other pieces with that fabric so that's only from trying them on. I took some pictures but it's pretty boring how similar they look under a flash so I'll spare the data usage. I will say the difference between used and unused is definitely real. So if I compare the arms I would say the J1A is more coarse. Compare the hoods (which I leave folded a lot) and you wouldn't know the difference.

Quote

Any other updates on the jacket worth noting?

Honestly I'm not super duper familiar with the old J1A, so I'm not very sure. Gonna look up some pictures tho and see what I see. Yeah not seeing much but the collar, I'm sure side by side someone could find more. I do think the collar zip is a bit shorter, there is more space between the bottom of it and the button than the old pictures show. 

Edited March 2, 2019 by RodG
idk how to edit with a quote sry

[RapGameTaylorSwift 107]

15 minutes ago, RodG said:

$428 duties on the J1A in the US is a big oof. My last acrnm purchase wasn't even close to that much tax. Has anyone ever had luck getting an adjustment on that with UPS? 6201.99.8030 should still work right? GT is man-made fiber and it'd fall under 'anorak, windbreaker, and similar articles', but would I have to prove that?

As for the jacket itself, I like the folded down collar way more than I thought I would, and the look with the hood attached less than I thought I would. With the hood on I think I prefer the old look. The logo tape seems a bit far back, but I'm also used to vertical logo tape. All the details I have checked so far (hardware, seam tape, zipper pulls etc.,) have seemed equivalent or purposefully different (shiny vs not shiny zips) from my J28. Though I do think the sling is a bit stiffer and more coarse than that of the J28 (but I'm not sure how much wear has to do with that). I've noticed that the hand pockets have like a dart (??) to provide more fabric/space on the inside, which is cool. I don't know if old models had that or not but the J28 doesn't for sure.

 

I could keep going, but the rest of my opinions really only have to do with comparing it to the only other acronym jacket I have so I'll leave that to be continued later.

Any requests for detail pics?

I spoke to UPS and gave the code 6201.99.8030 and my duties were reduced to $65. If you already paid duties though, it's extremely difficult to get them reduced. 

Few initial thoughts: 

Collar – I've liked the folded collar since they originally showed 2.2 with the 3A-1s, and it really is a great refinement. With the last J1A, I always ended up folding the collar over anyways. I don't like the collar up as much, as the collar seems really skinny and high, so its less proportional than previous J1A's, especially without the hood. 

Gravity Pockets –The redesigned gravity pockets are an improvement too. Much less in the way, and easier to open and close the zips.

Zippers – I wonder why they decide to keep the shiny zippers vs. the matte zippers on other jackets (like J47). Aesthetically, I like both but the matte zippers feel way smoother to me. 

Fit – The sizes on the site were identical to the previous version but it seems a bit boxier. With a J58 underneath, I have much more radial movement than I recall with the last version. Although, it has been a couple years since I last owned it. 

Hood – Perfect. The shape is great, and it no longer has those flaps that the last version did. The flaps always bothered the hell out of me so I'm happy they got rid of them. I'm also able to get the hood over my head with the storm collar all the way zipped, which I've not always been able to do with other ACRNM jackets. 

[Saisen 1,012]

[RodG 6]

32 minutes ago, RapGameTaylorSwift said:

I spoke to UPS and gave the code 6201.99.8030 and my duties were reduced to $65. If you already paid duties though, it's extremely difficult to get them reduced. 

 

Fuck me dude that's nuts. Definitely feel dumb for not jumping on that. Guess I'll be busy Monday... Has anyone ever succeeded in getting them reduced after paying?

32 minutes ago, RapGameTaylorSwift said:

Zippers – I wonder why they decide to keep the shiny zippers vs. the matte zippers on other jackets (like J47). Aesthetically, I like both but the matte zippers feel way smoother to me. 

Matte 100%, shiny just seems cheaper imo. Maybe the decision is due to the matte ones being a tad stiffer/bigger?

Edited March 2, 2019 by RodG

[SuE 1,463]

There is no excuse that this info should come out via a customer picture and a LOL Instagram comment posted after the jacket is sold out. I'm disappointed in errolson's ethics

[r8zr 10]

Btw, where was it shipped from? Czech Republic or China?

[Kamikaze 3,823]

Cz

[Xu Jianfeng 1,821]

13 hours ago, Xu Jianfeng said:

That’s would be a long story and I’m so far a 50 50 towards it as a 100 made in China dude. And some information is properly out as current situation.

1. Any concerns about build quality would basically unnecessary.  Some factory are being  in the field for decades, for all these outdoor big names etc, or for premium material based brand as visvim, the oem factory was a long term term. You might wonder why so these fake shit came from nowhere rapidly, me too until a heard fake Guerilla taking advantages from previous oem factory for north face( no surprise) and advices from the workers.

2.Workfare would not be dramatically changed compared to CZ as I believed the factory and workers meet the acrnm standard costs around 850 euro(insuranced), also the working time is bit flexible, which really is,  and definitely not be the foxcom one hopefully. However, threat to Acrnm team really is, they most likely not be directly copied like they used to be in tabao, but in an even worse, or you name a better way? That the pattern was copied heavy ass. This happens in Visvim OEM factory and not a rare thing.

3. When asked why Germany as birthplace as the brand, I might recall dude quite honest answer that the healthy balance of costs and industry’s heritage benefit the whole output. However during the merino and leather period, production was also heavily take place in japan, and Tilak for definitely help a lot sharing its pattern like j7 or j20 and many more, and at last a own factory. Then again the move sounds a reasonable thinking after years, and why it’s make sense that j1a was a solid update that huge references would transfer to China’s factory. What’s too surprise me is they using their alpha and omega model testing water, but then again, make sense at a scale of economy, I still recall assumes a total 1000 pieces 2.0 was made, compared with normal total 300 pieces( not confirmed anywhere, just guess, but you know me). For 2.2, I kind believe the order was hiking into 1500 pieces as xs for a thing.

4. Pure personal meme, but that be a super funny you might also feeling that.
In China there be some meme around dude wearing mixture of Bruce Lee(material arts way) or Jet Li as the brand ambassador and Chairman mao the subtle military uniform way, this style was called”Zhong Hua Li Ling”, was originally a commercial from the local brand “Seven“, means Chinese standup collar. 
I myself was always lurking for E guide king boxing design, and at last a stand up collar j1a Version came up and finally produced in China, not bad hah.

Updated.

[drgitlin 9,414]

12 hours ago, SuE said:

There is no excuse that this info should come out via a customer picture and a LOL Instagram comment posted after the jacket is sold out. I'm disappointed in errolson's ethics

As opposed to how? This is Acronym we're talking about, it's not like they have a press office or a PR firm doing media relations sending out pitches to Complex and Hypebeast and all the 'grammars to tell them production is now expanding to China. The company has always been a black box, and details emerge here and there in interviews and personal communication. Why is this some ethical insult by the company towards you?

[SuE 1,463]

47 minutes ago, drgitlin said:

As opposed to how? This is Acronym we're talking about, it's not like they have a press office or a PR firm doing media relations sending out pitches to Complex and Hypebeast and all the 'grammars to tell them production is now expanding to China. The company has always been a black box, and details emerge here and there in interviews and personal communication. Why is this some ethical insult by the company towards you?

Hold up — I didn't say it's a personal insult; don't put words in my mouth. 

As opposed to perhaps Outlier, who put the info/picture on the product page when they first manufactured in China then followed up on social media with the specifics about the manufacturing company

It doesn't have to be a big PR rollout via Hypebeast or whatever ffs. You're a journalist, you won't pick up the phone if Errolson calls? You're telling me he can't get an interview up witj Fashion Law blog? He can't make an announcement or two on Twitter? He can't explain on his website? That's bare minimum and he fell short

Edited March 2, 2019 by SuE

[drgitlin 9,414]

That’s never been the company’s way of doing things, and I don’t get the sense of entitlement here. 

[SuE 1,463]

1 hour ago, drgitlin said:

That’s never been the company’s way of doing things, and I don’t get the sense of entitlement here. 

And it was never the company's way to manufacture in China 

[erictheninja 139]

^ entitled af almost discriminating / borderline offensive to an entire country statement