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Acronym.


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10 hours ago, Xu Jianfeng said:

To me the p31 is kind version 1.1 of p15.  Slightly awkward was fact that it is like the p30 and p30a, the early version wins anyhow.

p17 reminds me heavily of some Uniqlo ezy pants though, another story.

i havent been keeping up with the nuances of recent releases.   whats the fit difference between p30 and p30a?

Edited by solo1
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13 minutes ago, BRICK DOM said:

P30a has the detachable cuffs. A is advanced, though that doesn't necessarily mean more pockets.

gotcha thanks, im curious why @Xu Jianfeng thinks the initial p30 is more favorable than the p30a if the fit is exactly the same, and the cuffs are removable anyways. figured it must be a slight fit variation

history seems to repeat itself just with very slight variations.

p17 ---> p23 very similar to a p17 maybe a bit baggier up top, with a stretch elongated cuff

p30 ---> p30a is a p30 with a stretch cuff (but with zipper to detach)

 

not sure why they haven't redropped any of the old SP short models, those are what i'd like to see most in terms of re releases 

 

Edited by solo1
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On 12/10/2019 at 5:22 AM, outbrk said:

A friend just got these and isn't sure if they are legit. I know there are pretty good fakes out there now so any one have any idea?
Size tag looks off and the care tag has misspelt words which leads me to believe they are fake but just wanted to get a second opinion/s to confirm (as the person he got it from insists they are legit).

Thanks

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First pic is a dead giveaway, the size tag material is off

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14 hours ago, solo1 said:

gotcha thanks, im curious why @Xu Jianfeng thinks the initial p30 is more favorable than the p30a if the fit is exactly the same, and the cuffs are removable anyways. figured it must be a slight fit variation

history seems to repeat itself just with very slight variations.

p17 ---> p23 very similar to a p17 maybe a bit baggier up top, with a stretch elongated cuff

p30 ---> p30a is a p30 with a stretch cuff (but with zipper to detach)

 

not sure why they haven't redropped any of the old SP short models, those are what i'd like to see most in terms of re releases 

 

Although I'm not the biggest fan of shorts, I'm definitely with you, and would love to see more for variation's sake, but I guess they're not as ideal as pants in most scenarios, so the team wants to only put out the best that they can, and not just plain shorts.

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7 hours ago, nathan_ said:

Although I'm not the biggest fan of shorts, I'm definitely with you, and would love to see more for variation's sake, but I guess they're not as ideal as pants in most scenarios, so the team wants to only put out the best that they can, and not just plain shorts.

this is true, but i'd think one spring/summer in the past 5 years they'd re-drop them -- if they ever had planned on it.  shorts are ideal for spring summer. 

It seems to me that they've moved on from the normal articulated cargo short/ bdu short pant style and have gone to the much more dramatic hakama/harem/dropcrotch pant style and don't seem to be looking back.  p22, p23, p25, p27, p30 ...  

 

and on that note, i'm also hella surprised they haven't released a modified J4TS, one of the most subtle lowkey, yet iconic pieces.  

Edited by solo1
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On 12/17/2019 at 7:45 AM, solo1 said:

gotcha thanks, im curious why @Xu Jianfeng thinks the initial p30 is more favorable than the p30a if the fit is exactly the same, and the cuffs are removable anyways. figured it must be a slight fit variation

history seems to repeat itself just with very slight variations.

p17 ---> p23 very similar to a p17 maybe a bit baggier up top, with a stretch elongated cuff

p30 ---> p30a is a p30 with a stretch cuff (but with zipper to detach)

 

not sure why they haven't redropped any of the old SP short models, those are what i'd like to see most in terms of re releases 

 

you’ll instantlly noticed the difference of the materials though they same ds, guessing is because the factory process on material jittering somehow. Im sure on the made in china side but the total output of 30a not reaching my expectitions(no, j1a made in china version is cool to me).

it might sounds subjective but should be more carefully when we embrace the next piece from chinese factory.

 

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3 hours ago, Xu Jianfeng said:

you’ll instantlly noticed the difference of the materials though they same ds, guessing is because the factory process on material jittering somehow. Im sure on the made in china side but the total output of 30a not reaching my expectitions(no, j1a made in china version is cool to me).

it might sounds subjective but should be more carefully when we embrace the next piece from chinese factory.

 

The material was made in EU. There are many variations of -ds fabric (thin, thick, -ds extreme etc). So what the main difference?  Overall fit?Fits the same for me, maybe the advanced version drapes/looks better sometimes  (ofc depends on the belt system configuration : waist stacks on the front/back/both sides). 

But i can notice some crooked stitchings, different buckles, webbing on my p30a. 

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9 hours ago, solo1 said:

this is true, but i'd think one spring/summer in the past 5 years they'd re-drop them -- if they ever had planned on it.  shorts are ideal for spring summer. 

It seems to me that they've moved on from the normal articulated cargo short/ bdu short pant style and have gone to the much more dramatic hakama/harem/dropcrotch pant style and don't seem to be looking back.  p22, p23, p25, p27, p30 ...  

 

and on that note, i'm also hella surprised they haven't released a modified J4TS, one of the most subtle lowkey, yet iconic pieces.  

I think it just comes down to regular fit shorts being restricting in a way that the team is just not interested in, and go for the drop-crotch instead for a wider range of movement, typically.

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6 hours ago, Xu Jianfeng said:

you’ll instantlly noticed the difference of the materials though they same ds, guessing is because the factory process on material jittering somehow. Im sure on the made in china side but the total output of 30a not reaching my expectitions(no, j1a made in china version is cool to me).

it might sounds subjective but should be more carefully when we embrace the next piece from chinese factory.

 

 

1 hour ago, Yan90 said:

The material was made in EU. There are many variations of -ds fabric (thin, thick, -ds extreme etc). So what the main difference?  Overall fit?Fits the same for me, maybe the advanced version drapes/looks better sometimes  (ofc depends on the belt system configuration : waist stacks on the front/back/both sides). 

But i can notice some crooked stitchings, different buckles, webbing on my p30a. 

 

although doesnt affect function, sounds like it surely is worthy to note that the made in china pieces have some crooked stitching and are slightly less meticulous on the manufacturing side -- i think many folks who buy their first ACR pieces are at least relatively impressed with how impeccable the craftsmanship and seams are (as the craftsmanship probably should be with the current price points)

 

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hey, just picked up my first acronym pieces and was wondering what i'll need to do in terms of cleaning.. neither the JT-27 GT or the J65-AK i bought from the acrmn website have care tags on them. can't imagine that i'll really need to clean the jacket, but the liner - i just don't really know.. any advice?

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2 minutes ago, cthulhudaddi said:

hey, just picked up my first acronym pieces and was wondering what i'll need to do in terms of cleaning.. neither the JT-27 GT or the J65-AK i bought from the acrmn website have care tags on them. can't imagine that i'll really need to clean the jacket, but the liner - i just don't really know.. any advice?

Did you check all the pockets? I've never had an item that didn't have care tags anywhere unless I bought used and it had fallen off.  And you're going to want to clean the jacket.

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9 minutes ago, cthulhudaddi said:

hey, just picked up my first acronym pieces and was wondering what i'll need to do in terms of cleaning.. neither the JT-27 GT or the J65-AK i bought from the acrmn website have care tags on them. can't imagine that i'll really need to clean the jacket, but the liner - i just don't really know.. any advice?

Oh god please definitely do clean your GT shell....

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14 minutes ago, thatslapz said:

Did you check all the pockets? I've never had an item that didn't have care tags anywhere unless I bought used and it had fallen off.  And you're going to want to clean the jacket.

woah mind blown, hadn't thought to check there. thanks!

8 minutes ago, lxkhor said:

Oh god please definitely do clean your GT shell....

and absolutely will do, just meant it looks like it will stay clean for quite a while.

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29 minutes ago, cthulhudaddi said:

woah mind blown, hadn't thought to check there. thanks!

and absolutely will do, just meant it looks like it will stay clean for quite a while.

Gt you want to clean regularly for functionality and longevity. Even if the outer isn’t dirty.

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for sure! how often would you recommend? for context, im thinking i'll be using the J27 as a daily jacket until early spring at least..

also, i just walked thru 15 blocks of 19F NYC midtown wind tunnels and it (with the J56) kept me plenty warm. a pair of gloves would not be unwelcomed tho. the zippered pockets are rather breathable but you can feel the wind thru the corners of them. when you tuck your head into the tall collar, the wind really doesn't make much of an impact.. and the hood of the J27 with a ballcap is pretty solid too... i've lived in nyc for a bunch of winters now, and this time i finally got home without having my ears feel like they were about to shatter into pieces as soon as i walked into the door. they were cold of course, but none of that frozen sting..

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Thoughts on the J59-GT

Haven’t seen anything about this jacket, so wanted to share my experience with it (since there are a few left, I think). I posted this on reddit as well, so more of a “I hope this helps those on the fence“ kinda post. I’ve really enjoyed this jacket.

 

1month ago

Just got it today in medium. I’m 182cm/78kg, athletic. It’s a big and boxy fit, but by manipulating the zipper and the pull cord, you actually have a lot of control over the silhouette, which is the main thing I want to hit on. All the specs and similar are online and the product imagery is pretty spot on to reality.

It’s modeled after the MA-1, which is what originally drew me to it. I’ve wanted an MA-1 forever, and have a few other jackets in that family like the Buzz Rickson Gibson B15, and a Rickson A2. But I’ve resisted getting an MA-1. I hadn’t found an option that felt quite right and there a something about the details on that kinda flight jacket that feel foreign to me. I get the same sense when I wear the B15, with its vestigial arm pocket and detailing that’s plenty useful as a pilot, a bit less so as a pedestrian.

Anyway, seeing the J59-GT, I felt like I was seeing the thing I didn’t quite know I was looking for. A weather shield that looked like an MA-1 if you squint, but also feels like something distinct.

When it arrived, I was initially a bit unhappy. The frame felt somehow bigger than I expected, especially as someone who usually wears more fitted clothes. But after walking around a bit and seeing how the jacket settled and moved, I think what I had interpreted as bagginess was actually the structure of the fabric and the internal volume mimicking the shapes and contours of a nylon and wool constructed MA-1. With the lines of the pockets and the manipulation made possible with the draw cord, it took on the shape of the MA-1 and (insofar as that shape is structure) actually creates a very structured overall look.

This jacket presents an interesting opportunity to explore alternatives to (what I had understood as) the streamlined tech wear silhouette. Especially as someone who has been drawn to military surplus and workwear, there is something to the material efficiency of a lot of tech wear (and the way it almost diminishes the wearer) that I’ve never loved. Conversely, military and workwear have a lot of form-follows-function staples that present that function efficiently from an economic perspective, but not a material one. Just have the wearer do more squats if they complain. Anyway, my frustration is that often with tech wear I feel like the individual disappears behind the clothes, maybe as a protest to the commodification of identity and information in our current age. This jacket doesn’t do that, and it feels a bit less like it’s wearing you. It also feels a bit less “tech wear” perhaps, though I think my definition there is a bit limited.

Anyway, my intent with this jacket is to wear it heavily, casually, and across a bunch of needs. So will report back on how it survives. Big points of concern are the zipper and the Goretex stretching ribbing. It seems pretty solid, but especially around the hands I imagine that level of contact with that kind of material will lead to sweat and potentially material degradation. But hopefully this’ll be a key piece for years. Hope this helps, 

https://acrnm.com/products/J59-GT_SS19

Also a thought:
https://www.heddels.com/2015/03/william-gibson-interview-buzz-rickson-line-tech-wear-limits-authenticity/

 

—-

Today
One month in, I love this thing.

Some big things:
- Silhouette is very flexible thanks to the draw string and dual zipper. I’ve found the sweet spot for me, but have actually manipulated it from time to time depending on what I’m looking for that day. Definitely a more casual look.
- The pockets are huge and useful, but zip them closed. Somewhere in Copenhagen, there is an outlier beanie that slipped out. I wish there was a bit of a well under the zipped area to catch such things.
- The hood is awesome. I’ve also swapped it on and off again depending on what I’m looking for.
- The chest snap is key. It basically lets the j59 semi-structured silhouette work without being zipped shut.
- The 2L at the cuffs seems to work fine and has been nice in the incredibly windy Denmark. Still slightly worried about a sweat and oil collection there but haven’t noticed anything yet.
- I’m a backpack person primarily, and sadly it looks kind of sloppy with a backpack. I usually wear a messenger bag with it now.
- I have an 8mo old who I often cart around in an ergobaby chest harness, and this thing somehow makes that look okay layered over the harness and open at the front. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 

Anyway, all told a big purchase that I was nervous about, but I’ve been super happy. I think I will get a more structured acronym jacket as well, but down the road and likely not in GT. 

Let me know if you have any questions, as there still seem to be one or two on the site.

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On 12/23/2019 at 3:25 PM, dixonschneider said:

How do you wash your -PB jackets? Any differences to a normal gore tex jacket? It seems not regarding to the washing Tag but I’ll better double check :)

Same as other gtx. Inside out zipped up in garment bag, warm with techwash. No need to reapply dwr since there isn’t any.

Edited by wexler
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5 hours ago, dreamboatjustsoul said:

Do you do inside out when you wash your Gore-Tex pro? 

Yeah, my logic being dirt/oil contamination via the backer occurs more-so than face fabric. Also remove force lock/logo tape, sling, hood if detachable, loosen shock cords and close all pockets.

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3 hours ago, AvantSol said:

Honestly, first I heard about someone inside out washing their GT

Second this, it makes sense to maybe lightly rinse the inside to wash sweat/dirt, but I've only ever washed it thoroughly via the outside to get rid of dirt or scuffs etc.

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12 hours ago, wexler said:

Yeah, my logic being dirt/oil contamination via the backer occurs more-so than face fabric. Also remove force lock/logo tape, sling, hood if detachable, loosen shock cords and close all pockets.

first time to hear inside out to wash goretex as well, since I just follow the arcteyx goretex washing vid, I will probably try to hand wash the inside next time. 

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6 hours ago, RemarkableArmor said:

Also I always figured this might contribute to more seam peeling if that faces the washing machine drum... (even though I use a garment bag too *paranoid*)

Agreed, wouldn't turn it inside out if I didn't use a garment bag. But then again I wouldn’t wash a $1k++ jackets without investing $5 in a wash bag. Idk maybe its just from habit of turning stuff inside out (ex: wool sweaters to help prevent piling) it probably makes no difference lol.

edit: with shakedry through I’d be hesitant about not washing inside out since the membrane is the face but again *paranoid*

Edited by wexler
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15 hours ago, nathan_ said:

Second this, it makes sense to maybe lightly rinse the inside to wash sweat/dirt, but I've only ever washed it thoroughly via the outside to get rid of dirt or scuffs etc.

The inside is where degradation/lack of performance emanates from in terms of soiling. The oils from your skin cause the membranes to separate if not removed frequently. It’s less of an issue if wearing a liner/neck gaiter/gloves but will still need to be cleansed more frequently than the exterior for the most part. 

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