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Westbrook

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The fading is one thing, but I also really like all the tears and fraying. Stotz is comparable to raw denim because it looks better and becomes more comfortable with age. My pair is at least half-way thru its lifespan. The second photo highlights the shiny/waxy effect from the high wear areas. I figure it is the result of skin oils mixing with the DWR coating.

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Edited by hooper
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45 minutes ago, hoju said:

Stotz, relative to the other fabrics, is rough/least soft, so I'm curious how they feel once they're this worn in?

They feel even more comfy but keep the structured armor-esque feel. 

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2 hours ago, RackG said:

*photo*

P10-CH in black, pretty worn in.

on this topic, I’m finding a few small holes along the seams of the gusseted crotch of these pants. Anybody have any suggestion for fixing them?

just take them to a local repair shop. crotch rips are common in the p10. both my pairs had the crotch repaired years ago. get it fixed before the holes get any bigger.

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Another annoying sizing question...

So based on the info across multiple retailers and the ACR site itself, it appears that the waist on the P24A’s are ‘oversized’. I just spent a good amount of time on the current drop fit pics at the mother site and there’s some definite bunching in some spots, I feel like it would be more pronounced if they both didn’t have tees tucked into the waist. It took me about 4-5 pairs of P10’s in various materials to figure out that I should size up just a bit. I’m about 5’9” with beefy legs. My small P10’s in stotz hug my shit but don’t feel too fitted due to breaking in. My P10 CH also in small feel great. My P10’s in DS from the most recent batch are medium, and while the waist is a bit too large, they feel better leg wise. Awesome stacks, and don’t feel baggy, which the CH is bordering on at times.

Based on all of that, anybody have any pertinent info regarding the P24a’s? I’m not looking for big stacks on them like in the fit pics, prefer they break above the ankle. Also- I know people say don’t tailor due to complicated patterns, but really how difficult would it be to just take in the waist a bit on either the P10’s or P24A’s? Seems fairly simple depending on just how much material is being manipulated. Obviously the skill of the tailor is very important. Appreciate any insight!

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22 hours ago, chunglove said:

lol I'm sure you'll love and respect acronym if E slapped you with an ACRNM dildo

I think you’re mistaking ACRNM with SUPREME. They do share a couple letters so its understandable.

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3 hours ago, Toilettebun said:

anyone have any pics of well aged CH especially the non schoeller shape one? All these pics of stotz patina got me interested in seeing how CH patinas.

Who produced the fabric for the non-schoeller ones? I only read back to about 2014 before I joined up but I probably missed it regardless. 

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I got my P24a-S tailored for fit of thighs and for leg length.

I wanted  to reduce the roomy thighs as I prefer a bit of a closer fit. The tailor did a good job and the pattern didn't change to my untrained eye.

For the length I had it shortened to ankle height as I also wasn't keen on bunching. Don't see any reason why it can't be done with a decent tailor.

I'm not sure about waist as that is a difficult adjustment in my opinion...my only suggestion would be to get a tailor who has experience and a good understanding of patterns as taking in the waist and thighs could affect the position of the main pockets on the side.

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1 hour ago, sklfc said:

I got my P24a-S tailored for fit of thighs and for leg length.

I wanted  to reduce the roomy thighs as I prefer a bit of a closer fit. The tailor did a good job and the pattern didn't change to my untrained eye.

For the length I had it shortened to ankle height as I also wasn't keen on bunching. Don't see any reason why it can't be done with a decent tailor.

I'm not sure about waist as that is a difficult adjustment in my opinion...my only suggestion would be to get a tailor who has experience and a good understanding of patterns as taking in the waist and thighs could affect the position of the main pockets on the side.

Fit pics?

The waist I’m not too worried about. Ive seen enough alterations where they pull back the fabric between the rear belt loop (two rear loops in the case of most ACR pants), which is how I’m currently wearing my P10-DS by way of a belt. I asked mostly because I don’t know everything about anything, but I cant see it in my current wear practice being that big an issue. The P24A’s are not as complex as the P10’s structure-wise, so I’d presume it wouldn’t be too big a deal. Hemming is out of the question on the P10’s by and large IMO, and seems like more work than its worth. That being said, I don’t know how much hemming a pair of P24a’s will effect the overall fit...

Edited by brainerd666
Forgetting...
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10 hours ago, brainerd666 said:

Fit pics?

The waist I’m not too worried about. Ive seen enough alterations where they pull back the fabric between the rear belt loop (two rear loops in the case of most ACR pants), which is how I’m currently wearing my P10-DS by way of a belt. I asked mostly because I don’t know everything about anything, but I cant see it in my current wear practice being that big an issue. The P24A’s are not as complex as the P10’s structure-wise, so I’d presume it wouldn’t be too big a deal. Hemming is out of the question on the P10’s by and large IMO, and seems like more work than its worth. That being said, I don’t know how much hemming a pair of P24a’s will effect the overall fit...

One thing to bear in mind with the P24As is that they're high-waisted, particularly compared to something like the P9 or P10. If you wear them on your hips, the articulation for the knees will be below your actual knees.

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12 hours ago, brainerd666 said:

Who produced the fabric for the non-schoeller ones? I only read back to about 2014 before I joined up but I probably missed it regardless. 

Still schoeller except the fabric composition changed drastically I believe - significantly higher cotton content in the composition.

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11 hours ago, brainerd666 said:

I don’t know how much hemming a pair of P24a’s will effect the overall fit

The biggest concern would be the taper. the p24 cut isn't straight, so hemming will create a wider leg opening than the original cut, might have more of a "wide leg" fit overal. The shape of the leg with a roll/stack on the p24 largely comes from the taper. 

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2 hours ago, emenel said:

The biggest concern would be the taper. the p24 cut isn't straight, so hemming will create a wider leg opening than the original cut, might have more of a "wide leg" fit overal. The shape of the leg with a roll/stack on the p24 largely comes from the taper. 

It’s hard to tell from the pics, but the lower leg construction looks fairly simple? It should be possible to have a tailor taper the lower leg a bit after the hem yes? Or am I just dreaming big here? 

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1 minute ago, brainerd666 said:

It’s hard to tell from the pics, but the lower leg construction looks fairly simple? It should be possible to have a tailor taper the lower leg a bit after the hem yes? Or am I just dreaming big here? 

I mean, sure, you probably could. But it’s a lot of work and risk for a very expensive pair of trousers. Personally, if I don’t like the original fit I just look at other options. 

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