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Acronym.


Westbrook

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20 hours ago, hooper said:

I've greatly appreciated the quiet releases/re-stocks as of recent. It definitely feels like they are making conscious effort to make new items more easily available to obsessed fans like some of us. :~)

The two-item drop last month was surprising for many reasons (including pricing), but I think the J53TS-GT might have been largely responsible.

<speculation>

Given that it was released just last Fall with identical specs, and lingering on the site then also, I think that the 're-release' was/is just a second attempt by acr to sell all the J53's that might have been returned last Fall - even having Lenny re-do a photoshoot with the olive 3A-1 to convince us otherwise. The J47A-WS could have very well been slated for release at another time (SS18?), but was expedited to accompany the J53 're-release' to avoid a somber solo re-stock of the J53TS-GT.

</speculation>

3RD-ARM releases have always been sporadic/unannounced as far back as I could remember, so there isn't anything new there. All said, I'm not entirely convinced that the quiet release model is really what is playing out here (though I really hope you are right).

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1. yes the 3A's are insane expensive, BUT...

2. I'd rather pay 1350EUR to acrnm team then pay 1350EUR to some fucking opportunist who copped a bag for 800EUR and is looking for a profit on community he does not belong to, but heard it's cool

3. if you take the pricepoint of -SVR or -BLK and add the "will-not-get-fucked-up-over-time tax" it's pretty fair price and comparable to your gf's LV

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6 minutes ago, danii said:

1. yes the 3A's are insane expensive, BUT...

2. I'd rather pay 1350EUR to acrnm team then pay 1350EUR to some fucking opportunist who copped a bag for 800EUR and is looking for a profit on community he does not belong to, but heard it's cool

3. if you take the pricepoint of -SVR or -BLK and add the "will-not-get-fucked-up-over-time tax" it's pretty fair price and comparable to your gf's LV

1. Yes they are.

2. Except that the hype is dying, and those 3A-3TS-SVRs and -BLKs have been sitting on Grailed for weeks. Now they're sitting there on the acrnm.com, priced at last year's resale prices, and, surprise surprise, they haven't sold out. Maybe the crew is sitting back like "job well done boys, we haven't sold all our product!," and good on them, I guess, if their goal was to not sell product, but...

3. You should know better than most that xpac gets plenty fucked up over time—it doesn't matter if it's shiny or not. Black looks especially ratty after a couple years of hard use.

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30 minutes ago, junkie_dolphin said:

1. Yes they are.

3. You should know better than most that xpac gets plenty fucked up over time—it doesn't matter if it's shiny or not. Black looks especially ratty after a couple years of hard use.

Those are both of the reasons I didn’t pick up the 3ts. I really like the looks of the all olive green but I don’t want it to look like crap in 2 years. As stated a couple posts back- my laminate 3ts has held up excellently over the last year and half of almost daily use and I don’t baby it by any means. Lots of books, groceries, six packs and other bulky items, pouches on the front stuffed with crap... No real signs of wear thus far besides very light patina. The x-pac I’ve seen from years back looks like worn out metallic patent leather IMO. 

Edited by brainerd666
Words are dumb
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I have put mine (VX07 X-PAC) in quite some heavy use. Here is a pic compared to brand new piece of x-pac fabric. The X fibers are more visible and it became softer and some bents are visible when empty but I cannot say it looks really bad. Ok there is a small tear but still looks fine for it's age (crappy iphone IMG file).

IMG_0815.thumb.JPG.26a8e64f382be752afd186857cf9c87c.JPG

The X-PAC used on the new bags is VX42, which is called Rugged X-PAC with 420 denier nylon face. The old VX07 is just listed as standard and has 70 denier rip-stop nylon face. Which sounds like it will last longer then the old black x-pac ones and way longer then the inside out -BLK and -SVR.

 

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4 minutes ago, danii said:

I have put mine (VX07 X-PAC) in quite some heavy use. Here is a pic compared to brand new piece of x-pac fabric. The X fibers are more visible and it became softer and some bents are visible when empty but I cannot say it looks really bad. Ok there is a small tear but still looks fine for it's age (crappy iphone IMG file).

IMG_0815.thumb.JPG.26a8e64f382be752afd186857cf9c87c.JPG

The X-PAC used on the new bags is VX42, which is called Rugged X-PAC with 420 denier nylon face. The old VX07 is just listed as standard and has 70 denier rip-stop nylon face. Which sounds like it will last longer then the old black x-pac ones and way longer then the inside out -BLK and -SVR.

 

Thanks for the insight danii. I guess we'll have to wait and see how these ones turn out (did anyone here grab one?). I still prefer the way the laminate myself—or even the old cottom ones, which seem to fade nicely like old military bags...

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No matter how I defend the new bags and like the tonal olive cw (shame on the black mesh backer), it's not for me because olive and too expensive. ACRNM is again the brand I want but can hardly afford, like back in the day when I earned less. Ahhhh memories...

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well i’ll say it, i sold my laminat 3a-1 and bought the olive xpac. came out ahead in the transaction .. so far .. but should i brace for COD? haven’t been hit w COD since my J1A-GT. 

Edited by nodre
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1 hour ago, danii said:

No matter how I defend the new bags and like the tonal olive cw (shame on the black mesh backer), it's not for me because olive and too expensive. ACRNM is again the brand I want but can hardly afford, like back in the day when I earned less. Ahhhh memories...

You and me both. I think my PB-J62 might be the last Acronym thing I buy; can't really justify the loony prices when Veilance exists, has a retail store near me where I can try shit on to make sure it fits, and it's all more reasonably priced.

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8 minutes ago, drgitlin said:

You and me both. I think my PB-J62 might be the last Acronym thing I buy; can't really justify the loony prices when Veilance exists, has a retail store near me where I can try shit on to make sure it fits, and it's all more reasonably priced.

same dawg, same. multiple retailers, goes on sale (what?!), functioning repair department. i was looking at the full priced Norvan jacket. $350 - what a steal! When you're used to ACR prices everything becomes cheap in comparision, lol.

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10 minutes ago, drgitlin said:

You and me both. I think my PB-J62 might be the last Acronym thing I buy; can't really justify the loony prices when Veilance exists, has a retail store near me where I can try shit on to make sure it fits, and it's all more reasonably priced.

Honestly if I could use veilance as a complete substitute to acronym I would. I do have a monitor coat that’s great but it will never have a jacket sling (unless I send it off to get alterations) or tecsys (would be more complex to alter goretex apparel without a seam press or Tec Sys webbing) and any of the other bonus trinkets and features and plethora of pockets that come with each acronym model. Is dishing out the extra $800+ worth the small details? Maybe maybe not, but for me, I do really find the small details incredibly useful like the top button enclosure on a j28 or the slide pockets that are on the j28 or 3a-1 or the inner pocket that turns into a compartment for your jacket like the j47a-ws or j61-ws and love those small details that I won’t find in any other jacket. I’ve always been a proponent of good design and functionality over style or hype but most times, veilance is just a bit too minimal although their overall design, build, and warranty is incredible. 

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33 minutes ago, meccaNIZM said:

6ts-cor get my vote in the bag fabric awards. As seen vs. my 8ts. Both used pretty extensively, but the COR still looks brand new 

Would happily pay idiot money for a 3A-8TS-COR...I quite liked the aesthetic of the new olive XPAC, but would feel pretty foolish paying that much for something that wouldn't work as daily-carry for me. Need an actual laptop compartment-

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1 hour ago, drgitlin said:

You and me both. I think my PB-J62 might be the last Acronym thing I buy; can't really justify the loony prices when Veilance exists, has a retail store near me where I can try shit on to make sure it fits, and it's all more reasonably priced.

We're only gonna see more of this. ACR prices will never be lower than they are now and they've increased so much over the last few years. My man Errolson's slowly pricing out people who, in a very real sense, helped to make the brand what it is today.

Having said that, the day my last P10s are out of commission is the day I might consider selling a kidney on the black market...

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On a separate but related note- anybody ever intentionally shrunk their P10-S to fit? I’m between sizes on them. The smalls are a touch too short at the ankles and too snug in both the calves and waist, whereas the mediums are a touch too long at the ankle and roomy in the waist, calves are perfect. 

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2 hours ago, segue said:

Honestly if I could use veilance as a complete substitute to acronym I would. I do have a monitor coat that’s great but it will never have a jacket sling (unless I send it off to get alterations) or tecsys (would be more complex to alter goretex apparel without a seam press or Tec Sys webbing) and any of the other bonus trinkets and features and plethora of pockets that come with each acronym model. Is dishing out the extra $800+ worth the small details? Maybe maybe not, but for me, I do really find the small details incredibly useful like the top button enclosure on a j28 or the slide pockets that are on the j28 or 3a-1 or the inner pocket that turns into a compartment for your jacket like the j47a-ws or j61-ws and love those small details that I won’t find in any other jacket. I’ve always been a proponent of good design and functionality over style or hype but most times, veilance is just a bit too minimal although their overall design, build, and warranty is incredible. 

I hear you on the jacket sling. Right now I need another jacket like I need a hole in my head so I don’t have to worry about that, thankfully.

FWIW, Veilance has also done things like jackets that stow in their own pockets—the Windshell Blazer for example.

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2 hours ago, 468262 said:

My man Errolson's slowly pricing out people who, in a very real sense, helped to make the brand what it is today.

I don't like the price hike either, but if the brand is slowly growing, so should the spending power of the people who helped make the brand what it is today? I mean, the only thing that seems to be going down in price nowadays is my investment in crypto..... 

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1 hour ago, Muin said:

It would be nice if E made slightly more of each piece to hedge against raising prices this high. At this rate I can see the next gen J1A-GT at 2.2k at retail easily.

But strictly from a business perspective, if I could maximise profits and minimise my upfront capital, I definitely would. Especially if I run a small shop. 

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I haven't see the -COR up that close but I bet we all can see the XXs (=X-PAC). I compared the photo to the sampler from dymension-polyant and even when there is VX51 (Extreme X-PAC /w 500x1000 den cordura face) it looks more like the VX42 or VX21 (Terrain X-PAC /w 210 den nylon face). The VX51 /w cordura has more noticable weaving on the face and XXs less visible, but again it can be caused by age of @meccaNIZM's bag or the photo.

tldr; the olive bags will last as much as the -COR

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IMG_0817.JPG.963667dd9c776f3a55ed9522edcef27b.JPG

I took another crappy iphone photo so you can see the difference between rugged VX41 [L] and extreme VX51 [R]. On the other hand if acr says it's cordura, there is no need to question that, so the -COR are probably VX51. Sorry for another material X-PAC geekery post.

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44 minutes ago, danii said:

 

I took another crappy iphone photo so you can see the difference between rugged VX41 [L] and extreme VX51 [R]. On the other hand if acr says it's cordura, there is no need to question that, so the -COR are probably VX51. Sorry for another material X-PAC geekery post.

the material stuff is one of the best parts of the forum danii!

Edit: Also, you're like the only person making me feel better about that olive 3a-1 purchase :P

Edited by spladow
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13 hours ago, 468262 said:

 My man Errolson's slowly pricing out people who, in a very real sense, helped to make the brand what it is today.

Very much this. I don't begrudge ACR their success, which is more than deserved, but as someone who loved acr from the first time i saw it in 2010 i do feel sort of left behind. 

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I think it's also worth mentioning that acronym is more accepted in high fashion circles now, and considered in the same circles of cult luxury brands by those people (ie, a lot of long-time acr heads dress in head to toe acr the same way rick or yohji fans do). If you're into that tier of fashion, paying 2k+ usd for a trench coat/coat of similar cut to j53 isn't that much of a stretch. It sucks that it's pricing out so many longtime fans, but I can't say I'm too surprised at the direction the prices have taken, it just seems to have happened pretty quickly with every season/drop being noticeably more expensive than the last.

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5 minutes ago, shifty said:

I think it's also worth mentioning that acronym is more accepted in high fashion circles now, and considered in the same circles of cult luxury brands by those people (ie, a lot of long-time acr heads dress in head to toe acr the same way rick or yohji fans do). If you're into that tier of fashion, paying 2k+ usd for a trench coat/coat of similar cut to j53 isn't that much of a stretch. It sucks that it's pricing out so many longtime fans, but I can't say I'm too surprised at the direction the prices have taken, it just seems to have happened pretty quickly with every season/drop being noticeably more expensive than the last.

To be honest, I think they've been generous.  The technical and performance aspect of the gear could have easily gone for Yohji prices some time ago but it's been a slow and gradual build for years.  This reasoning is more in line with what seems to be happening.  He's taking his spot, which for the amount of time elapsed since its inception, is well deserved.

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On 11/17/2017 at 7:22 PM, austinalamualaykum said:

Regarding import duties to USA for the foil 3A-3TS release...

caveat: I'm by no means an expert on this kind of stuff and only used the valuable info previously provided by @CARLOOA and @Voyager to corroborate my own Google-ing. PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong.

  • My order was placed on the evening of the 15th. 
  • Didn't receive a shipment conf email from Acronym, but woke up today to an email from UPS informing me that $59.64 in duties are owed + the $11.00 brokerage fee UPS pockets (for fronting the duties on our behalf). A total of $70.64. 
  • Phoned UPS and was told that the tariff code associated with the package is 4202.22.30.40 ; this code corresponds to a 7.4% duty rate. 
  • Upon referring the code to the HTS cheat sheet (chp.42), I'd say that Acronym already provided UPS the most specific code (70% PA -nylon 30% PES -polyester) aka "man-made fibers."
  • With the most specific code already being assigned to the package, there's no chance that the duty percentage can be further lowered. 

tldr: Pay up ; the 7.4% duty rate is as low as it's going to get for these 3A foil bags.

So I'm in the process of trying to apply the tariff code that @austinalamualaykum did for his 3ts 4202.22.40.30 (think he mixed up the 30 and 40 after looking at the HTS cheat sheet he provided) which would bring the current duty rate of 17.6% (good lord) to 7.4% and I'm getting a response from UPS saying that the provided HTS code can only apply to bags that are made of items made of braids or has braids are somewhere in the make-up of the item.  she said that the shipper’s website does not note that the bags are made wholly or in part of braids and needs me to verify if the bags are made wholly or in part of braids so I am calling out to the community for help!

I looked up some of the definitions of braiding to see if the olive 3a-1 and 3ts meet the critieria and see that braiding is an interweaving of 3 or more strands.  wiki says that for nylon ripstop (what the xpac is made of), reinforcement threads are interwoven at regular intervals in a crosshatch pattern with thin and lightweight ripstop fabrics have a 3-dimensional structure due to the thicker threads being interwoven in thinner cloth. 

Wondering if this could be finagled into being seen as braid?  Calling fabric expert @danii for assistance!

-----------

UPDATE:  I'm sad to say that she will not use the HTS code provided above because she doesnt see the bags having braided parts in the make up of the bag, in the bag strap or braided cords for stitching and UPS would incur penalties in case of an audit.

If anyone is willing to gamble, the other option would be to become the IOR for the shipment which means that you would take responsibility for the shipment ensuring that all information provided is true and correct.  UPS would then process the shipment with the HTS code provides but in the event of a Customs Audit, instead of UPS, you would be responsible for any penalties possibly assessed which is why UPS isn't taking any risks with wrong codes.

In order for anyone to be the IOR, UPS would require the receiver to sign a POA, and obtain a bond.  (There is a fee for bonds which varies).  Any information regarding this would likely be handled by their POA department. 

-guess i'm just gonna pay it (sad face)...

Edited by segue
update
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Heads up for all broke boi’s, the tariff code for the 3TS should be 4202.22.40.30.  SDF almost had me until I checked Chapter 42 and noted that the numbers were transposed as per the earlier post which included 4202.22.30.40 as the tariff code.  Be on the lookout and stay broke boi safe out here!!

Posted this on 12/6.

 

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1 hour ago, segue said:

So I'm in the process of trying to apply the tariff code that @austinalamualaykum did for his 3ts 4202.22.40.30 (think he mixed up the 30 and 40 after looking at the HTS cheat sheet he provided) which would bring the current duty rate of 17.6% (good lord) to 7.4% and I'm getting a response from UPS saying that the provided HTS code can only apply to bags that are made of items made of braids or has braids are somewhere in the make-up of the item.  she said that the shipper’s website does not note that the bags are made wholly or in part of braids and needs me to verify if the bags are made wholly or in part of braids so I am calling out to the community for help!

I looked up some of the definitions of braiding to see if the olive 3a-1 and 3ts meet the critieria and see that braiding is an interweaving of 3 or more strands.  wiki says that for nylon ripstop (what the xpac is made of), reinforcement threads are interwoven at regular intervals in a crosshatch pattern with thin and lightweight ripstop fabrics have a 3-dimensional structure due to the thicker threads being interwoven in thinner cloth. 

Wondering if this could be finagled into being seen as braid?  Calling fabric expert @danii for assistance!

-----------

UPDATE:  I'm sad to say that she will not use the HTS code provided above because she doesnt see the bags having braided parts in the make up of the bag, in the bag strap or braided cords for stitching and UPS would incur penalties in case of an audit.

If anyone is willing to gamble, the other option would be to become the IOR for the shipment which means that you would take responsibility for the shipment ensuring that all information provided is true and correct.  UPS would then process the shipment with the HTS code provides but in the event of a Customs Audit, instead of UPS, you would be responsible for any penalties possibly assessed which is why UPS isn't taking any risks with wrong codes.

In order for anyone to be the IOR, UPS would require the receiver to sign a POA, and obtain a bond.  (There is a fee for bonds which varies).  Any information regarding this would likely be handled by their POA department. 

-guess i'm just gonna pay it (sad face)...

Olive 3A-1

4202.92.97.00  

Trunks, suitcases, vanity cases, attache cases, briefcases, school satchels, spectacle cases, binocular cases, camera cases, musical instrument cases, gun cases, holsters and similar containers; traveling bags, insulated food or beverage bags, toiletry bags, knapsacks and backpacks, handbags, shopping bags, wallets, purses, map cases, cigarette cases, tobacco pouches, tool bags, sports bags, bottle cases, jewelry boxes, powder cases, cutlery cases and similar containers, of leather or of composition leather, of sheeting of plastics, of textile materials, of vulcanized fiber or of paperboard, or wholly or mainly covered with such materials or with paper: (con.) 4202 (con.) Other: (con.) With outer surface of sheeting of plastics or of textile materials: (con.)

4202.92 (con.)

                       Other: (con.)

                                .91  ----------17.6%

                                .93  ----------17.6%

                                .94  ----------17.6%

                                .97  

                   4202.92.97 00 Other 1/................................................ Free (A, AU, BH, 45% CA, CL, CO, D, IL, JO, KR, MA, MX, NP, OM, P, PA, PE, SG) 16.6% (E) No............. 17.6%

 

the tariff code applied to this bag is completely correct, and even if it wasn't, the other code suffix's for said textiles with surface sheeting of plastics are all taxed at the same rate.

 

options to lower code are: 

lie to ups and convince them that the spec sheet is the outer layer of the bag making it a paper / textile at which rate the tax is 0% (4202.99.30.00)

or

suck it up, you know what you signed up for.

 

Edited by nodre
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