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Acronym.


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2 hours ago, Majotaur said:

 

HBX has been carrying the brand for a while now which, I guess, should have been an indication of things to come. Then again, not every person who reads Hypebeast is a bag of dicks. The brand--and techwear  in general--just happens to be "cool" now so, I get that they're pushing it a lot more lately. 

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3 hours ago, Majotaur said:

You know the expression 'preaching to the wrong choir'? That's how I'm beginning to feel with these HB posts. Clearly a few members of staff there really dig the aesthetic, and it's perfectly understandable they'd want to post about what they like, but you skim through the comment section and there is seldom a nice thing said. 

...

Does anyone else have any thoughts on that? 

I see it a lot in streetwear forums, where someone posts a techwear fit and it leads down the path of "why would you spend so much money on a jacket?" or "how could you walk around looking like that?" And no one is really interested in how the jacket functions or the materials. 

There is a subset that like the aesthetic and nothing else (see the new r/techwear clothing) and you get a ton of fits that completely miss the point. 

 So yeah in short I agree with you. 

Edited by Goober
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try to figure out these two solutions, happy to hear your experience and thoughts about them:

 

1 i don't have a decent leather jacket so far(used to rock one yohji's, but that was too 80's for me, let it go)

  Seems like j40-l still available on acrnm, and price is brutal really, sadly i do miss that discount one from haven. Compared with this, i also got one offer for ccp 2599 gop.   How's these two monsters going by some daily wearing purpose, not strongly limited by techwear or ccp style by your gurus? 

2 business bag mix and match: used to solve it by 7ts and add one of either 3a or 3ts, to handle some biz trip as long as one week, for urban envionrment. Since i bye 7ts, a proper(not too big also) backpack is needed. When the tech line was introduced by bagjack, i was considering cop one but not taking action yet, know they provide customized service, any experience with it? I actually not need molle version as they introduced recently, side bag 3ts or 9ts may do the job well.   

 

Cheers, happy weekend:ph34r:

  

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6 hours ago, Majotaur said:

You know the expression 'preaching to the wrong choir'? That's how I'm beginning to feel with these HB posts. Clearly a few members of staff there really dig the aesthetic, and it's perfectly understandable they'd want to post about what they like, but you skim through the comment section and there is seldom a nice thing said. 

I've nothing against the exposure, and I follow most of these guys on Instagram myself, but I'm of the opinion that HB isn't the right vector for Acronym, or techwear generally; their audience (except from maybe a slim subset) just isn't interested. 

Does anyone else have any thoughts on that? 

Unfortunately, I think that "style" is what they make it. It's a tail wagging the dog situation but industry drives fashion because these sites are the nexus for "street" style. With globalization and the regression of normative culture building, seeded advertisement is all we have left. Industry might have some artists but customers are resources and I think that balance sheets matter more than design impact. 

I may sound like an old person but we seem to have little classical objectively good design standards anymore. People fetishize industry "disruption" and have deep seated anti-establishment sentiments so they reject traditionalism. It's folly to think or expect that people will ever learn from history and from design development—but I want people to care. 

I think this confluence of things leads to our current day situation of influence peddling and the fleeting nature of fad culture. It's not what's said, it's who's saying it. It's not what looks cool, it's who's wearing it.  influencers say it's fashionable . It's fashionable. QED. 

At least in a text forum we can nerd out over details and a deeper appreciation over techwear. 

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Is there an online resource anywhere that explains all the technical aspects of the fabric used in Acronym clothing (and techwear in general)? Also, any resources that explain or show what each of the systems/tech do in Acronym clothing? For example:

ACRONYM INTEROPS
ACRONYM SOUND
ACRONYM TEC SYS
ForceLock
JacketSling
EscapeZip
SpeedLock
Gravity Pocket
AuxZip

I know what a lot of these things are and do but a resource would be really neat to help familiarize myself with the features that I have not experienced or read about yet especially when it comes to exploring new pieces.

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5 minutes ago, goodtimeshaxor said:

Is there an online resource anywhere that explains all the technical aspects of the fabric used in Acronym clothing (and techwear in general)? Also, any resources that explain or show what each of the systems/tech do in Acronym clothing? For example:

ACRONYM INTEROPS
ACRONYM SOUND
ACRONYM TEC SYS
ForceLock
JacketSling
EscapeZip
SpeedLock
Gravity Pocket
AuxZip

I know what a lot of these things are and do but a resource would be really neat to help familiarize myself with the features that I have not experienced or read about yet especially when it comes to exploring new pieces.

https://web-beta.archive.org/web/20150516104325/http://www.acrnm.com:80/pages/terminology

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ACRONYM INTEROPS: right back side water resistant zip for interfacing with 3a bags usually terminated at the hem with press buttons
ACRONYM SOUND: cable routing for headphones.
ACRONYM TEC SYS: standard molle attachment webbing for external attachment.
ForceLock: Velcro backed magnetic strip for holding IEMs on collar
JacketSling: sling for wearable carrying jacket without holding it, consists of a slider, pull, and elastic. Newer models feature backside carry rather than the interior carry.
EscapeZip: YKK proprietary zip that allows for quick doffing with a pull at the collar termination of the zipper.
SpeedLock: shockcord hem that allows one handed tightening, webbing pull.
Gravity Pocket: two way 5mm zipped pockets on the interior forearm arm that feature a in-sleeve press pocket that allow for item deployment with a swift downward motion.
AuxZip: liner integration.

We really should make an Acronym Wiki.

Edited by CARLOOA
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Even if subnet functioned as a type of loyalty program for preferred customers, why the sense of entitlement if it was really meant to be a tool for retailers? If people are so concerened with having their little exclusive community within the community, why not go start a closed facebook group or something? 

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2 hours ago, CARLOOA said:

Unfortunately, I think that "style" is what they make it. It's a tail wagging the dog situation but industry drives fashion because these sites are the nexus for "street" style. With globalization and the regression of normative culture building, seeded advertisement is all we have left. Industry might have some artists but customers are resources and I think that balance sheets matter more than design impact. 

I may sound like an old person but we seem to have little classical objectively good design standards anymore. People fetishize industry "disruption" and have deep seated anti-establishment sentiments so they reject traditionalism. It's folly to think or expect that people will ever learn from history and from design development—but I want people to care. 

I think this confluence of things leads to our current day situation of influence peddling and the fleeting nature of fad culture. It's not what's said, it's who's saying it. It's not what looks cool, it's who's wearing it.  influencers say it's fashionable . It's fashionable. QED. 

At least in a text forum we can nerd out over details and a deeper appreciation over techwear. 

I just had a look at r/techwearclothing. Fuck. This sort of thing really repels me...

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59 minutes ago, Voyager said:

 

58 minutes ago, CARLOOA said:


ACRONYM INTEROPS: right back side water resistant zip for interfacing with 3a bags usually terminated at the hem with press buttons
ACRONYM SOUND: velcro backed magnetic strip for holding IEMs on collar
ACRONYM TEC SYS: standard molle attachment webbing for external attachment.
ForceLock: See acronym sound
JacketSling: sling for wearable carrying jacket without holding it, consists of a slider, pull, and elastic. Newer models feature backside carry rather than the interior carry.
EscapeZip: YKK proprietary zip that allows for quick doffing with a pull at the collar termination of the zipper.
SpeedLock: shockcord hem that allows one handed tightening, webbing pull.
Gravity Pocket: two way 5mm zipped pockets on the interior forearm arm that feature a in-sleeve press pocket that allow for item deployment with a swift downward motion.
AuxZip: liner integration.

We really should make an Acronym Wiki.

Thank you both for the help! Book marked!

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I'm going to go off on a tangent here from resellers and try to tackle one of the biggest issues I feel like exists in the "techwear community"/"brand ambassadors"/etc. All feelings personal and feel free to debate me on any of this. It's also a bit stream of consciousness so sorry for rambling.

Let's push back to another fashion subculture like the old 60s Mod community. The brand of the day was definitely was someone like Fred Perry, but there were many more options in style (with suits or casual) and aspects that would have someone be into. Mod niche was able to continue on through a music scene, the scooters, and to a lesser extent, doing amphetamines at your local dance hall. As dumb as it sounds, it at least had something defining other than clothing. You also had to work harder than throwing $3k usd at Acronym to be "the shit."

Getting a little philosophical here but, what's another united tie/outlet of Techwear other than buying stuff/talking about buying stuff? There's no binding music style (Uhh, Burial is cool for the Acronym ads?)/art movement (I guess maybe glitch? Lifting stuff from TDR in the 90s? Brutalist concrete design from the late 60s/early 70s? Cyberpunk anime (which is very very dorky to most))/source of creativity (minus a very few people getting into learning how to sew or use cobra buckles)/activity (wearing 800 dollar action man pants to post on computer doesn't count)/political movement (Yeah, no, we don't need to go there).

I'm not saying that there needs to be a total encompassing ethos, but I feel without something else, the concept of just being an instagram beast who posts the latest drop with some dslr shots becomes extremely shallow for what the look is trying to portray (badass ninja mans in future gears, which is definitely the effect that Acronym is advertising with their videos of punchy-kicky, promo shots of Errolson staring at samurai armor, etc).

People aren't as hard repelled by off-beat designers Yohji/CDG mainline/what have you, where the design in of itself is the ultimate goal.  I repeatedly say "they're just clothes" to try to steer it into more of a thought that it's the design in of itself that should just be appreciated, rather than becoming the aforementioned badass ninja man.

Edited by exhaust fumes
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Imo it just looks to matchy matchy. if you wear any designer head to toe you look a little off. Wether it's the mannequin effect if you're in all Ralph Lauren or similar traditional or cosplay effect if you're in all Acronym or similar. Gotta mix it up and make your own style

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9 minutes ago, exhaust fumes said:

I'm going to go off on a tangent here from resellers and try to tackle one of the biggest issues I feel like exists in the "techwear community"/"brand ambassadors"/etc. All feelings personal and feel free to debate me on any of this. It's also a bit stream of consciousness so sorry for rambling.

Let's push back to another fashion subculture like the old 60s Mod community. The brand of the day was definitely was someone like Fred Perry, but there were many more options in style (with suits or casual) and aspects that would have someone be into. Mod niche was able to continue on through a music scene, the scooters, and to a lesser extent, doing amphetamines at your local dance hall. As dumb as it sounds, it at least had something defining other than clothing. You also had to work harder than throwing $3k usd at Acronym to be "the shit."

Getting a little philosophical here but, what's another united tie/outlet of Techwear other than buying stuff/talking about buying stuff? There's no binding music style (Uhh, Burial is cool for the Acronym ads?)/art movement (I guess maybe glitch? Lifting stuff from TDR in the 90s? Brutalist concrete design from the late 60s/early 70s? Cyberpunk anime (which is very very dorky to most))/source of creativity (minus a very few people getting into learning how to sew or use cobra buckles)/activity (wearing 800 dollar action man pants to post on computer doesn't count)/political movement (Yeah, no, we don't need to go there).

I'm not saying that there needs to be a total encompassing ethos, but I feel without something else, the concept of just being an instagram beast who posts the latest drop with some dslr shots becomes extremely shallow for what the look is trying to portray (badass ninja mans in future gears, which is definitely the effect that Acronym is advertising with their videos of punchy-kicky, promo shots of Errolson staring at samurai armor, etc).

People aren't as hard repelled by off-beat designers Yohji/CDG mainline/what have you, where the design in of itself is the ultimate goal.  I repeatedly say "they're just clothes" to try to steer it into more of a thought that it's the design in of itself that should just be appreciated, rather than becoming the aforementioned badass ninja man.

Thank you for this. I know you're not searching for meaning in design but it seems Errolson is very vocal on twitter as to his politics and I find it hard to disassociate his politics from his work. To draw on another parallel, I feel like Acronym attempts to appropriate miltiaria in the same way protest movements did. I think, without more, it fails to do this. He seems very adamant about anti-interventionism, tolerance, the protection of intellectual property, any a myriad of other, for a lack of better term, popular progressive stances. Cultivating the dystopian aesthetic is weird considering political idealism espoused, right?

Anyway, regarding the design. I like this season, I always like parkas and the J61 is like a future mod coat—J61/M51? I tweeted at Errolson once and he said that the J56 wasn't really influenced by anything but the Crye Field Shirt; I wonder if the J61 is heavily influenced or not. I don't really like the sarouel pants because they're too similar to other CDG or Rick stuff but I appreciate the different fabric choices. I really want to put a knife on the left side of the J1TS and my pistol on the ride side and go to the range to get weird looks.

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1 hour ago, CARLOOA said:

What do you mean?

This may or may not sound ridiculous, but my interest in Acronym has always been about design; I'm interested in my 3A-1 for the same reasons I'd be interested in a chair or a cellphone: affordances, functionality... the aesthetic is great, and Acronym obviously has a whole world of works it's drawing from (some of which I like a lot, like Gibson or Moebius), but if Errolson decided to do a waxed cotton Barbour-style jacket, but with Acronym design, I'd be just as interested.

All of this is to say, I'm interested in technical clothing for its affordances, not its aesthetics alone. "Techwear" has become an aesthetic, and that makes me very uncomfortable; it reminds me of how modernism was co-opted during the mid-20th century.

Edited by junkie_dolphin
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33 minutes ago, capnpyro said:

Imo it just looks to matchy matchy. if you wear any designer head to toe you look a little off. Wether it's the mannequin effect if you're in all Ralph Lauren or similar traditional or cosplay effect if you're in all Acronym or similar. Gotta mix it up and make your own style

Nah you can wear head to toe in one designer and look put together and natural if the designer's body of work is large enough. See: Yohji, CDG, Undercover, etc., they all offer a vast selection of different styles and types of garments for you to choose from. Acronym is a bit more limited just because there hasn't been as much production (as well as a limited range of colors and fabrics) but it's still possible to occupy aesthetics that sit outside the prevalent (& quite trite) "show as much militaristic detailing as possible" style. Fall/Winter 2014 was one of my favorite seasons because it offered a look that was lower profile, more refined (J40, J1A-LP, J41, J39, P16), and had many features driven by insightful solutions to the problems of the 'urban inhabitant' like vehicular escape and zip off center panel.  

I appreciate that aspect about this collection too, giving us more aesthetic choice through the pants and also by providing substantial iterative changes to some of the more versatile models (J46U is a revelation). I'm glad there are more options for wearing acronym pants without looking you have fucking rocks in your knees now too.

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2 hours ago, CARLOOA said:


ACRONYM INTEROPS: right back side water resistant zip for interfacing with 3a bags usually terminated at the hem with press buttons
ACRONYM SOUND: velcro backed magnetic strip for holding IEMs on collar
ACRONYM TEC SYS: standard molle attachment webbing for external attachment.
ForceLock: See acronym sound
JacketSling: sling for wearable carrying jacket without holding it, consists of a slider, pull, and elastic. Newer models feature backside carry rather than the interior carry.
EscapeZip: YKK proprietary zip that allows for quick doffing with a pull at the collar termination of the zipper.
SpeedLock: shockcord hem that allows one handed tightening, webbing pull.
Gravity Pocket: two way 5mm zipped pockets on the interior forearm arm that feature a in-sleeve press pocket that allow for item deployment with a swift downward motion.
AuxZip: liner integration.

We really should make an Acronym Wiki.

I second that.  Thanks for the nomenclature.  I myself wanted the entire listing.

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1 hour ago, exhaust fumes said:

Getting a little philosophical here but, what's another united tie/outlet of Techwear other than buying stuff/talking about buying stuff? 

THIS calls for serious global research survey monitoring other interests besides techwear. [Cyberpunk-style UI infographic output is a must]

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2 hours ago, junkie_dolphin said:

I just had a look at r/techwearclothing. Fuck. This sort of thing really repels me...

It's an interesting place. The following gave me a good little laugh

Quote

Hey guys, I've been a GITS fan for the longest time but I was only recently exposed to Techwear.
So I'm switching up my closet and I want to know if I'm doing it right.

 

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7 minutes ago, Yoshiii said:

It's an interesting place. The following gave me a good little laugh

 

The one where the guy was asking if tactical boots were techwear-compatible made me want to pluck my eyes out with chopsticks.

Much as we might joke about lumbersexuals etc., I actually prefer this guy's fit to 90% of these tech ninjas.

6fe0249351931aeed1a6d13734cfbeeb.jpg

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5 minutes ago, junkie_dolphin said:

The one where the guy was asking if tactical boots were techwear-compatible made me want to pluck my eyes out with chopsticks.

Much as we might joke about lumbersexuals etc., I actually prefer this guy's fit to 90% of these tech ninjas.

6fe0249351931aeed1a6d13734cfbeeb.jpg

If it makes any sense I usually wear my acronym jackets with veilance/sisp pants, and veilance tops with acronym bottoms/sisp bottoms. I find it weird to wear the full acr kit.

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8 minutes ago, Dolphinski said:

Acronym sound is not the same as a forecelock. IIRC acronym sound refers to the zipper garage that lets you have a cable coming out of a zipped pocket without the opening being exposed to the rain.

In the case of the 3A-1, "Acronym Sound" refers to the system of holes through which you can pass a headphone cable. There's one at the to of the back, and one at the top of each internal hanging pocket.

Edited by junkie_dolphin
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35 minutes ago, junkie_dolphin said:

In the case of the 3A-1, "Acronym Sound" refers to the system of holes through which you can pass a headphone cable. There's one at the to of the back, and one at the top of each internal hanging pocket.

Edited to reflect this.

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